THE KITT PEAK STORY

KITT PEAK NATIONAL OBSERVATORY PROJECT

In February 4, 1955 a rocket called the Viking 12 streaked into the sky above New Mexico's White Sands Proving Grounds. Aboard were instruments, including a camera which automatically clicked at a height of 140 miles above the earth's surface. The instruments were later recovered and the film processed. The result was one of the most remarkable photographs ever taken.

In one vast sweep the view stretched across Arizona to Southern California and the Pacific Coast, a distance of 700 miles, and took in the northern part of the Gulf of California. All was there in microscopic detail — mountains, deserts, lakes, rivers, fields and cities — to the curving horizon of the ocean. Since then several men have seen this stupendous panorama, for the picture was taken from a location and altitude in line with the second orbits of our astronauts.

The Viking photograph immediately excited the interest of a group of astronomers who had recently been charged with a mission by the National Science Foundation. Their job was to locate the site for a governmentfinanced astronomical observatory to serve the greatly expanded needs of Space-Age research. This intensive survey lasted three years and included 157 possible locations, from the East Coast to Hawaii. What was wanted was a situation high enough to be above the dust and smoke of the low-lands, yet below the major weather patterns usually found over 7,500 feet altitude. It soon became apparent that the Southwest offered optimum conditions for such an observatory, and the Viking photograph indicated an area in the Southern Arizona desert, southwest of Tucson, that showed great promise.

Such actually proved to be the case, and a likely candidate was soon found there. This was Kitt Peak, highest summit of the Quinlan Mountains, with an elevation of 6,875 feet. Named about 70 years ago by prominent Arizonan, George J. Roskruge for his sister Mrs. Felipa Kitt, it has long been a familiar landmark.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY RAY MANLEY

"36-INCH TELESCOPE HOUSING ON KITT PEAK" BY MICKEY PRIM AND RAY MANLEY. This photograph shows one of the important installations at the National Observatory on Kitt Peak.

"IN OBSERVING ROOM OF SOLAR TELESCOPE" BY MICKEY PRIM AND RAY MANLEY. Photograph was taken inside of the observing room of the Solar Telescope. Man in the center is studying an image of the sun which is reflected down through the ceiling.

OPPOSITE PAGE

"VIEW OF 84-INCH TELESCOPE" BY RAY MANLEY AND MICKEY PRIM. Kitt Peak's most powerful instrument, its 84-inch stellar telescope, ranks among the world's great ones and probably the most modern anywhere. It is smaller than the 200-inch giant at Mt. Palomar. 5x7 Linhof; Ektachrome; f. 16; open flash; 90mm extreme wide angle; fall 1962; flash and time; meter reading negligible; ASA rating 24.

FOLLOWING PANEL

"KITT PEAK NATIONAL OBSERVATORY" BY RAY MANLEY AND NAURICE KOONCE. This arial view shows the National Observatory on Kitt Peak. Kitt Peak, forty miles west of Tucson, might have been named after a surveyor's sister, Mrs. William F. Kitt, in 1893.

However, there were obstacles to occupying the site for test observations. It is within the huge 2,775,000-acre Papago Indian Reservation, second largest in the country, and the mountain has sacred significance. The tribe numbers about 11,000, many of them living in primitive villages little changed since the Spaniards first explored the region nearly three centuries ago. Some Papagos believe the earth is flat, and they were suspicious of the white scientists with their complicated instruments. It was "bad medicine," they declared. So the ancient traditions prevailed, and at two successive council meetings the Indians voted against allowing field parties to make tests on the mountaintop.

The astronomers then invited the Papago Tribal Council to Tucson for a view through the University of Arizona's Steward Telescope. A few simple astronomical facts were also explained to them. The Indians went back to the reservation greatly awed by their experience and, after more talk, agreed to let "the Men with the Long Eyes" look at the stars from Kitt Peak. Since then they have given their enthusiastic cooperation to the project.

The tests were highly successful and narrowed the search for the site of the future observatory to Kitt Peak and the Hualapai Mountains, another Arizona location, south of Kingman. Finally in March, 1958, the decision was officially announced in favor of Kitt Peak. It won on eleven counts, among which were good "seeing," temperature stability, low wind velocity, and favorable winter conditions. In fact, the area enjoys more than 80 per cent possible sunshine.

So, for the past three years the top of Kitt Peak has been a busy place. Congressional appropriations amounting to approximately $12 million were made to construct there the most modern and advanced astronomical station in the world. A service road was bulldozed up the mountain over which an almost continuous line of big lumbering trucks brought thousands of tons of steel, brick, cement and other building materials. Hundreds of workers labored mightily, and little by little converted the isolated peak into a fabulous scientific sky city in the midst of the lonely desert. Headquarters were also built in Tucson, containing offices, optical shops and technical laboratories. But with the formal dedication of the Solar Telescope on November 2, 1962, the job was completed and the American people were invited to come and take a look at their latest permanent investment in the future conquest of space. The public has enthusiastically responded, and the Kitt Peak National Observatory is rapidly becoming one of Arizona's outstanding show places for residents and visitors.

As its fame spreads, the number of sightseers is expected to increase enormously, and plans are being made for an ambitious tourist center at the base of the mountain. This will include a motel, restaurant, service station, and a shop for displaying and selling Papago arts and crafts. The promoters are a non-profit corporation of Tucson businessmen who intend to turn the center over to the Indians when construction costs have been repaid out of profits. It will then be tribal owned and operated, and Papagos from the reservation will eventually be trained to take over the center.

The Observatory itself occupies 200 acres of land leased from the Indians, and is 53 miles driving distance southwest from Tucson via Arizona State 86 and the recently opened Kitt Peak Highway. Costing $2,800,000, the latter is a wide, paved 12-mile spur road which sweeps up the north slopes of the mountain with even, gentle grade. The difference in elevation from bottom to top is 3,700 feet and, with increasing elevation, the views widen and spread over thousands of square miles of broad desert valleys, alternating with row upon row of barren, color-tinted mountains to the distant blue horizon. The temperature, too, drops some 15 to 20 degrees, and vegetation changes from cactus, creosote bush and ocotillo to manzanita, oak woodlands, and scattered pinyon and juniper. Among the latter, a particularly panoramic spot near the top has been developed as a pleasant picnic area, with tables, benches and grills. The Observatory buildings are clustered on the broad summit ridge, just below the pointed apex of Kitt Peak. They consist of workshops, laboratories, telescope dones, instrument housing, dormitories, and attractive adobebrick territorial-style residences for the permanent staff. Winding drives connect the various parts of the installation and have been built to avoid disturbing the native growth. so far as possible. Some of the more functional buildings are relieved by colorful Papago designs, but there is no general architectural scheme. Everything is neat, ship-shape and practical, but the exigencies of the Space Age leave little room for old-fashioned esthetics.

By far the most prominent feature of the Observatory is the Solar Telescope, which can be seen for miles in every direction. The earth's largest and most powerful instrument for observing the sun, it is radically new in concept and design. The triangular structure stands 110 feet high and has been imaginatively likened to a Temple to the Sun built by Men from Mars, or an Aztec shrine where mystic rites are conducted. Super-magnification is achieved by three reflectors. At the top is a flat mirror, 80 inches in diameter, called a heliostat. It directs the sun's light 480 feet to a 60-inch parabolic mirror at the bottom of a slanting shaft, drilled into the mountaintop at a 32-degree angle. From this point the light is thrown back 280 feet to another mirror, 48 inches across, which projects a 34-inch solar image 48 into an underground observing room. There it may be photographed or directed into a vertical pit, 70 feet deep, where spectroscopes divide the light into component parts, which may be studied separately. The slanting shaft exactly parallels the earth's polar axis, allowing the electrically driven heliostat to follow the sun and keep its image immovably centered. The exterior of the unique structure is sheathed with "tube-in-sheet" copper siding, painted a gleaming white, nad the slanting shaft is enclosed in a steel frame lined with fireproof tile-board. Because light waves are proverbially skittish and unpredictable under varying conditions, rock wool insulation and a system of cold-water pipes in the walls insure a constant temperature. The subterranean observing room is connected by a corridor with a modern-style, glass walled office building above ground. A multiple-disc solar telescope of such revolutionary design was conceived by the late Dr. Robert A. McMath of the McMath-Hurlbert Observatory, affiliated with the University of Michigan. Although successful in convincing the National Science Foundation of its importance, unfortunately he did not live to see the project completed. However, after Dr. McMath's untimely death in 1962, the telescope was finished under the supervision of Dr. A. Keith Pierce, one of Kitt Peak's two associate directors, who is in charge of solar astronomy. Scientists are well known for the conservatism of their predictions. But this telescope permits more detailed studies of the sun than were ever before possible, and its probable revealing discoveries could well be of tremendous potential value to the future of the human race. "We are often asked, 'Why study the sun?'" said one of the Observatory staff. "Our answer is that the conquest of space includes the development of its resources. For instance, there are enormous sources of power to tap, and we think the sun holds the key that unlocks them. Astronomers have been peering at it through tele"an almost continuous line of big trucks brought thousands of tons of steel, brick, cement and other building materials"

board. Because light waves are proverbially skittish and unpredictable under varying conditions, rock wool insulation and a system of cold-water pipes in the walls insure a constant temperature. The subterranean observing room is connected by a corridor with a modern-style, glass walled office building above ground. A multiple-disc solar telescope of such revolutionary design was conceived by the late Dr. Robert A. McMath of the McMath-Hurlbert Observatory, affiliated with the University of Michigan. Although successful in convincing the National Science Foundation of its importance, unfortunately he did not live to see the project completed. However, after Dr. McMath's untimely death in 1962, the telescope was finished under the supervision of Dr. A. Keith Pierce, one of Kitt Peak's two associate directors, who is in charge of solar astronomy. Scientists are well known for the conservatism of their predictions. But this telescope permits more detailed studies of the sun than were ever before possible, and its probable revealing discoveries could well be of tremendous potential value to the future of the human race. "We are often asked, 'Why study the sun?'" said one of the Observatory staff. "Our answer is that the conquest of space includes the development of its resources. For instance, there are enormous sources of power to tap, and we think the sun holds the key that unlocks them. Astronomers have been peering at it through tele-scopes for centuries, yet we still know very little about how it operates."

"The sun is a big gob of hydrogen," he continued in layman's language, "which has been giving off energy at a constant rate for millions of years. If it increased we'd shrivel up; if it lessened we'd freeze. We just don't know how the sun conserves its energy. When Man releases energy from a small chunk of hydrogen, it explodes instantly and blows up everything for miles around. So," he concluded, "if we could learn how the sun does it, maybe we could set up a hydrogen plant capable of furnishing power to the whole world."

But perhaps Kitt Peak's most intriguing scientific adventure story in the future exploration of outer space is its Long Range Orbiting Telescope Project. Research is now being conducted in cooperation with the National Aeronautics and Space Administration on ways and means of boosting a sizeable telescope into the sky. The initial problem is to develop a rocket with sufficient thrust to put a 2-ton instrument, with a 50-inch reflecting mirror, into a 24-hour orbit 20,000 miles from the earth's sur-face. Such an orbiting telescope would be outside the dense, obscuring portion of the atmosphere, and, by radio control, ground-based observers could use it day and night regardless of weather conditions.

But every step in the project is pioneering the unknown, and at least five to ten years will be required for its successful completion. At present, operating techniques are being worked out at the Tucson Headquarters. There, a small telescope is linked to a control room, 200feet away. When the complications of radio apparatus have been solved, the operation will be repeated with an instrument at the Observatory, 45 air-line miles distant. After the basic know-how has been achieved, a few miles or a few thousand will make little difference.

With the exception of the big Solar Telescope, Kitt Peak's astronomical facilities are devoted to stellar research. This is the province of Dr. Nicholas U. Mayall, the organization's Director, who was formerly with the University of California's Lick Observatory. Among the other instruments available are two large conventional-type reflecting telescopes, having 36-inch and 84-inch mirrors, and a couple of 16-inch reflectors. These are used chiefly for photoelectric measurements of star brightness, and spectroscopic purposes. A dome is also being built on the mountain to accommodate the University of Arizona's Steward Telescope, now on the Tucson campus. And, as a final challenge to the remotest stars, galaxies and nebulae, plans envision a monster telescope, probably with a 150-inch mirror to be installed at a future date.

All of Kitt Peak's instruments are designed with unusually short focal lengths. This makes for maximum magnification and definition, as well as compactness and ease of handling. It is said that the 16-inch telescopes could plainly spot a lighted candle 25 miles distant while, if it weren't for the curvature of the earth, a candle in Los Angeles would be visible with the 36-inch reflector, and one in Tokyo could be seen through the 84-inch telescope. This last, the world's fifth largest, wasset up on the mountain in August, 1962, for preliminary testing. The mirror's raw material was a blank of pyrex weighing 4,200 pounds and costing $120,000. For more than a year the disc was ground and polished in the optical shops at the Tucson Headquarters, where over a third of its weight was shaved off. Some 1,450 pounds of grinding compounds were used in the process. The final three months were devoted to giving the mirror a parabolic surface with a 2-inch dip in the center. This is exacting work requiring accuracy to within a millionth of an inch in order to avoid astigmatism, or blurring. The completed telescope is housed in an impressive dome, 100 feet high, and floats on a wafer-thin film of oil, which enables a small electric motor to orient it at will:

Machine Shop at Kitt Peak

But not all of the Observatory's problems are scientific. Associate Director for Administration, Mr. James M. Miller, finds the human and physical elements equally demanding. The organization has a permanent personnel of 140, including both Kitt Peak and Headquarters, and its facilities are available to qualified scientists of all nationalities. Planning for the smooth interacting operation of staff, technicians, workers, visiting astronomers and tourists has been a major factor from the beginning. However, one simplification in administration has been made; there are no schools or family accommodations on the mountain.

An adequate water supply was one of the first problems to be faced, as a desert peak is niggardly in this respect. It has been satisfactorily solved for the present at least. A large cement catchment basin collects rain and melted snow and delivers it to underground storage tanks. The system yields 40,000 gallons for each inch of precipitation and, as the annual average is around 17 inches, some 700,000 gallons are available during a 12month period. So far this has proved to be ample, but additional sources may be necessary in the future. So a search is being carried on for possible supplies in the canyons on the mountain's slopes. Fortunately, precipitation is far greater at the summit than in the arid valleys below, and occasionally snow falls there, but usually melts quickly. However, one record storm in January, 1962, deposited 22 inches.

The Kitt Peak National Observatory was built and is operated by the Association of Universities for Research in Astronomy under a contract with the National Science Foundation. Usually known as AURA, the former is a non-profit research and educational corporation organized under the laws of the State of Arizona, and it has nine member institutions. These are the universities of California, Chicago, Michigan and Wisconsin, and Harvard, Indiana, Ohio State, Princeton and Yale universities.

The National Science Foundation, a federal agency, was established by Congress in 1950 for the purpose of furthering basic research in those sciences essential to the nation's progress and welfare. It has four operating divisions; biological and medical sciences; mathematical, physical, and engineering sciences; social sciences; and scientific personnel and education. Kitt Peak is one of the Foundation's major projects because the rapid development of rocketry and space exploration has given astronomical research greatly increased importance to the future of the human race. But only by the expenditure of the vast sums available to a government agency can adequate facilities be provided.

So Arizonans can well be proud of this new advanced outpost of the Space Age. However, it belongs to all Americans and is an example of our united purpose to find Man's place in the universe.

"KITT PEAK FROM DESERT FLOOR" BY RAY MANLEY. Photo taken four miles west of the Kitt Peak turnoff and to the north of the Sells-Tucson Highway. The area has previously been cleared of mesquite and the resulting ground disturbances made for a fabulous growth of spring flowers. Kitt Peak, highest summit of the Quinlan Mountains, is 6,875 feet in elevation.

ARIZONA'S Wilderness Areas... CONTINUED FROM PAGE TWENTY-SEVEN

at Faraway and Silver Spur guest ranches in nearby Chiricahua National Monument, but the high country is also ideal for two to four-day knapsack trips. The mountains above 8,000 feet may be snowbound 3-4 months of the year, and the best season for a visit is June to October.

Rugged, remote and little known, the Galiuro Mountains rim the east side of the San Pedro Valley, fifty miles northeast of Tucson. They are within another detached section of Coronado National Forest, and are largely included in the 55,000-acre GALIURO WILD AREA. Culminating in two roughly parallel north-south crests, these mountains are a jumbled maze of deep, narrow canyons and high, steep ridges, broken by varicolored cliffs and escarpments. Elevations range from 4,000 to almost 8,000 feet.

Much of the area is covered with dense brush, but there are sycamore, alder, ash and walnut trees in the canyons, scattered oaks, junipers and pinyons at middle altitudes, and Arizona cypress, Ponderosa pine, chihuahua pine, and Douglas fir on the upper slopes. Knowing, back-country hunters swear by the Galiuros and go in year after year for white-tailed and mule deer, javelinas, black bears and mountain lions. But there is no fishing. Streambeds are often dry and visitors should have a good map showing dependable watering places, or a guide who knows the area.

Unlike the Chiricahuas, the Galiuros have no improved campgrounds or other facilities. The easiest approach to the Wild Area is the Jeep Trail, from the northeast, which ascends Rattlesnake Canyon into the heart of the range. From it several foot and horse-trails lead to the crests. Cross-country travel, however, is extremely difficult because of the brush and cliffs.

East of Phoenix, the great pink, shiplike prow of Superstition Mountain juts up 4,000 feet above flat Salt River Valley, and is one of Arizona's outstanding landmarks. Behind it, to the east and north, stretch the Superstition Mountains, a vast complex of colorful desert canyons, buttes, mesas, ridges and pinnacles. No part of the Southwest is more steeped in mystery, legend and romance, and for nearly a century men have penetrated its fastnesses searching for the fabulous Lost Dutchman Mine.

The mountains are within Tonto National Forest, and 124,120 acres have been set aside as the SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS AREA. "Forest" is somewhat of a misnomer for the southern part of the Tonto. Although there are several well-wooded portions below the Mogollon Rim, it was largely established to protect valuable desert watersheds. The topography of this Wilderness Area is extremely rough, and some sections are inaccessible except on foot. Most of the area is desert and brush, but several peaks reach altitudes of 4,500 to 6,000 feet and support pinyon, Arizona cypress and Ponderosa pine.

Remains of prehistoric red-skin occupation are common. Among them are Heiroglyphic Spring, the Cliff Dwellings in Rogers Canyon, Indian Terraces near the Reevis Ranch, and the Indian Fort in Pine Canyon. The savage Apaches also lived in the region, but today there are no human habitations in the Wilderness Area except a prospector's camp and a few overnight cabins used by stockmen.

These unique primitive areas are an important conservation accomplishment of the United States Forest Service

The Superstitions are flanked on the south by U.S. 80-89, and to the north by the Apache Trail. The main access from the former is at Peralta Canyon, and three trails enter from the north. Horses and guides can be secured at King's Ranch, First Water Ranch, the old IV Ranch, and Apache Junction, but travel in the area requires careful preparation. Summer temperatures reach 110 to 115 degrees, water is scarce, and trails are few and rugged. In fact, these desert mountains have taken considerable toll among unwary travelers. The winter climate is delightful, but perhaps the area is most attractive in spring and fall.The Superstitions have been well publicized by the Dons Club of Phoenix. Each March it stages a day's trek for lost gold, in which some 1,000 guests participate in a hike, barbecue and campfire program. With the exception of a few prospectors and javelina hunters, the area is otherwise seldom visited. However, the Forest Service is making trail improvements and, with its nearness to rapidly growing urban centers, this fascinating

Remains of prehistoric red-skin occupation are common, but today there are no human habitations in the wilderness areaswilderness will undoubtedly become one of the state's most popular outdoor recreation areas.

From the Apache Trail north of Globe, the massive, mile-high wall of the Sierra Ancha provides a spectacular backdrop for the blue waters of Roosevelt Lake. Rising abruptly from the cactus-studded desert valley to high, heavily wooded summits, these impressive mountains are within the Tonto National Forest and contain the SIERRA ANCHA WILD AREA of 20,850 acres. Elevations range from 4,000 to 7,800 feet, and the topography is exceedingly rough and precipitous. Characteristic are sheer cliffs and deep, almost inaccessible ravines of rare beauty. The mountaintops, however, are more moderate and offer a delightful timbered skyland graded Arizona 288, between Roosevelt Lake and Young, an improved roadside campgrounds are located at Rose Creek which is in Ponderosa pine forests at about 6,000 feet elevation. Horses and guides are available at Lee's Ranch on the west side and the Ellison Ranch on the Cherry Creek road, to the south. From the latter a jeep trail ascends Cherry Creek Canyon along the eastern border of the Wild Area. The Sierra Ancha is most attractive from May to October. Winter visits are not advisable because of the possibility of snow and ice on the trails.

The MAZATZAL WILDERNESS AREA is the largest National Forest wilderness wholly in Arizona. Containing 206,000 acres, it includes the northern portion of to roam. These higher altitudes support stands of pine, fir, spruce and aspen. At lower levels, woodland species occur, including pinyon, juniper and oak, and still lower is a belt of brush, usually called chaparral. Below them all is the desert.

The Sierra Ancha is noted for its abundant wildlife. White-tailed deer, mule deer, bears and turkeys are common, while mountain lions, coyotes, bobcats and foxes are also plentiful. Although there is no fishing, there are many springs, and Reynolds and Workman Creek are small permanent streams. Evidences of ancient Indian occupation are numerous, the most interesting being the well-preserved cliff dwellings in Pueblo Canyon.

The west boundary of the Wild Area is paralleled by the Mazatzal Mountains and extends north-and-south for thirty miles, with an extreme width of fifteen miles. Altitudes vary from 2,500 feet in the Verde Valley, on the west, to Mazatzal Peak, 7,888 feet, highest point on the crest. Although there are about 9,000 acres of Ponderosa pine and Douglas fir, most of the area is covered with oak-pinyon-juniper woodland and chaparral, with cactus and other desert vegetation at lower levels. In fact, the spectacular pink, yellow and grey cliffs and canyons of the Mazatzals have a stern and severe beauty, little softened by tree growth.

Cat fishing is good in the East Verde and quail, deer and other wildlife are found here. The East Verde is the only permanent water but the other larger streams usually run a good part of the year and there are several springs. Except for a couple of seasonal cattlemen's cabins and a few spectators' shelters, the area has no permanent habitations. But some five hundred years ago it was well populated. Signs of past Indian occupation are numerous, and on the highest peaks and ridges are some of the least known and explored prehistoric ruins in the State. Trails enter the Wilderness Area at a half dozen points, and one crosses the mountains from east to west. With advance notice, saddle and pack animals with guides may be arranged for at nearby cattle ranches, including the Anderson Ranch at Horse Mesa Dam on the Verde, Chilson Ranch south of Payson, and HB Ranch west of Payson. Best seasons for a visit are spring and fall. The remaining four wilderness areas have not yet been reclassified under Department of Agriculture Regulations U-1 and U-2, so are still technically "Primitive Areas." Farthest west is PINE MOUNTAIN PRIMITIVE AREA, the most secluded and retiring of all Arizona's wilderness preserves. Although located only sixty-five miles north of Phoenix and forty miles east of Prescott, most people have never heard of it. Covering 17,424 acres, this re-mote area is almost equally divided between Tonto and-for they can be explored

"To enjoy Arizona's Wilderness Areas . . . , one must leave civilization behind . . ."

Prescott National Forests, and includes the highest section of the Verde Rim. To the east, a series of cliffs, broken by narrow, steep-walled canyons, drops abruptly into the Verde Valley, but west of the Rim the slopes are more gradual, with broad ridges of mesas between the canyons.

Pine Mountain, 7,621 feet, the highest point, is named for the fine virgin stands of Ponderosa which clothes its upper parts. At lower elevations are woodland species, and still lower is brush, such as scrub oak, manzanita and mountain mahogany. Deer afford good, though difficult hunting in season, and bears, mountain lions and lesser animals range the region. However, no perennial streams mean no fishing.

The area may be reached from north-south Arizona 79 by dirt side road to Sycamore Ranger Station. From there a primitive road, passable in dry weather, leads up to Sycamore Creek to the west boundary where there is water and camp-sites. Trails traverse most of the area and cross-country travel is not too difficult, but apt to be slow because of canyons and brush. Horses may be obtained at the Dugas Ranch near the Ranger Station, if advance arrangements have been made.

Although the BLUE RANGE PRIMITIVE AREA in Apache National Forest contains 216,737 acres and is larger than the Mazatzal, about 35,000 acres in the northeast corner are over the line in New Mexico. The wilderness includes much of the upper watershed of the rough, rocky Blue River, which flows southward through a deep valley between high mountains. Elevations vary from 4,500 to 5,800 feet along the river to 8,000-9,000foot peaks and ridges on each side. Tributaries of the Blue plunge down precipitous V-notch canyons and numerous limestone and sandstone cliffs make the trails steep, narrow and twisting. In places the going is over bare rock for a mile at a time.

Ponderosa pine, fir, spruce and aspen grow at higher elevations, while the lower slopes are covered with brush, mostly oak, alternating with stretches of native bunch grasses. The area is within one of Arizona's top hunting regions. Deer and elk are numerous, and bears and mountain lions furnish sport for those rugged individuals who thrive on following the hounds in rough country wherever they lead. The Blue and several side streams offer fair trout fishing, but they cannot rival the famed fisherman's paradise of the White Mountains, to the north.

Although U.S. 666, the scenic Coronado Trail, follows the western boundary of the Primitive Area, easiest access is from the north. Outfitters who have stock and equipment for trail rides and pack trips are located at Hannagan Meadows, Beaverhead Lodge, various ranches, and Blue Post Office. The Blue is definitely summer country, best visited from June to October.

Dominating the green, forested swells of the White Mountains is Baldy Peak, with an elevation of 11,590 feet. On the boundary between Apache National Forest and Fort Apache Indian Reservation, its upper slopes on all sides are preserved in their natural state. The northeast segment is within the 7,400-acre MT. BALDY PRIMITIVE AREA, which is continued around the mountain by a similar wilderness tract administered by the Indians.

At higher elevations are heavy stands of Engelmann spruce and Arizona fir, interspersed with lush green meadows, while at lower altitudes Douglas fir and Ponderosa pine predominate. Elk and wild turkeys are often seen in the grassy openings, and grouse are found throughout the area. Roundabout in the headwaters of the White and Little Colorado Rivers is Arizona's finest trout fishing, and the peak is close to the White Mountain resort area, one of the Southwest's leading summer outdoor playgrounds. Winter sports, too, have recently gained in popularity. From Phelps Ranger Station, on the northeast side, a riding and hiking trail leads to the top of Baldy Peak, and saddle and pack animals can be rented in the nearby resort town of Greer. A second and beautiful route to the top of Mt. Baldy is up the west fork of the Little Colorado River trail.

SYCAMORE CANYON PRIMITIVE AREA covers 46,122 acres in Kaibab, Coconino and Prescott National Forests. Here is such a spectacular example of erosion that it is sometimes called "The Little Grand Canyon." The gorge, which bites deeply into the Coconino Pla-teau, is walled with sheer cliffs rising from an elevation of 4,000-4,500 feet at the bottom to 6,500 feet at the rim. The rock is reddish cross-bedded sandstone, white limestone, and dark brown lava, carved by wind and running water into many fantastic shapes. Caves in the walls contain numerous Indian ruins and cliff dwellings.

The rim is within the Ponderosa pine forests which clothe the plateau, but in the canyon itself the vegetation is mostly of woodland types composed of pinyon, juniper and Arizona cypress in more favorable situations, and mountain brush species on the dryer slopes. Wildlife includes deer, bears, wild turkeys and many smaller animals and birds. The canyon bottom furnishes winter range for a large number of deer which forage during the summer in the pine forests above.

The west side of Sycamore Canyon can be reached by a dirt forest road south from Williams to a public campground on the rim. From there, and several other points, seasoned hikers may descend into the canyon and traverse it to another road-end near the south boundary of the Primitive Area, but there are no maintained trails from this entry point. Summer weather is pleasantly cool on top, but best seasons to visit the canyon itself are spring and fall.

So, the eight riders winding up the Peralta Trail in the Superstition Mountains were experiencing the thrill of contact with our original Western wilderness. That is rare these days and becoming rarer each year. But as population grows and urbanization spreads across the country, we will increasingly need forests and open spaces for recreation, as well as mental and physical refreshment. Arizona today has a valuable natural heritage in its wilderness areas and the time will come when they are among the state's priceless assets.

SEPTEMBER

If we could lay September's golden days Out long, as shadows in the rising sun, And end to end across the calendar To Spring, then Winter days need never come. But days as gold and full as ripened grain May seem to stand on edges in stiff rows; And we have scarcely touched the nearest one Before they pass like toppling dominoes.

REALITY

Reality Replaced the dream, Now word and deed Fulfilled the scheme.

Reality Lived and decayed. The dream returned Richly arrayed.

MY ROADS

It's an old road, deep ruts and muddy pools A delicate sprinkle of flowers along the fence Ancient and unkempt in the bright sunlight.

There's the new road, fresh concrete and shiny paint Assorted advertisements near the edge, Smooth and glistening on a spring morning.

I need both roads, hurrying, or dreaming home, Grateful for speedy ways on busy days, Longing for quiet paths at evening.

PORCH LIGHT

The Indian desert pulls the blanket of night around his golden shoulders prays to the Great Spirit who watches through the window of stars who acknowledges the chanted prayer by hanging the lantern of the moon.

ETERNAL MYSTERY

The midnight sky is dark, and stars are tall, The silence reaches farther than the moon; No wind disturbs the dust of restless years, As even wandering ghosts sleep well tonight; And over all the wide-spread desert broods The eternal mystery of the universe.

Yours sincerely HAVASU CANYON OR CATARACT CANYON:

Your July issue, your Printed in Arizona, U.S.A. issue, was most interesting. When you chose the land of the Havasupai Indians for your color subject, you picked a subject superbly scenic. But now I am confused. You use the term "Havasu Canyon." Some of the maps I have seen use the term "Cataract Canyon." How come?

BIG GREEN:

Regarding the Adventure in Havasu article in your July issue, there were several references to the Colorado River as chocolate, brown, muddy, etc. We discovered this to be no longer true after a trip down Havasu Canyon to the river not long ago and I suggest an editorial note in connection with the occurrence. After the closing of the gates at Glen Canyon Dam, the Colorado now flows green.

THANK YOU, MISS ROBB:

The attached article appeared in our Chicago Daily News. Inez Robb's column has daily coverage.

My enthusiasm for Arizona and my monthly appearances with ARIZONA HIGHWAYS always elicits the same questioning about the authenticity of the contents of the magazine, most specifically concerning the outstanding pictures. I, therefore, was especially happy to read Inez Robb's column and I thought you might like to have a copy.

I did not need her assurance that "all that stuff in ARIZONA HIGHWAYS is gospel." I have seen enough of Arizona to know.

Best of luck to you and more such items about ARIZONA HIGHWAYS and Arizona!

OPPOSITE PAGE

"SYCAMORE CANYON PRIMITIVE AREA" BY RAY MANLEY. Photo taken about 20 miles east of the Drake-Santa Fe railroad junction. Sycamore Canyon Primitive Area is composed of 46,122 acres in Kaibab, Coconino and Prescott National Forests. This spectacularly colored and eroded area has sometimes been called "The Little Grand Canyon." 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f. 12 at 1/100th sec.; 135mm Symmar lens; September; bright morning sun; meter reading 350; ASA rating 50."

BACK COVER

"VIEW OF THE BLACK RIVER" BY CHARLES W. HERBERT. Photo taken on south rim of Black River Canyon on the San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation about one mile west of the Phelps Dodge Pump Station, north of Point of Pines. Wide-angle lens used to show vastness of this canyon. Slow speed with camera on tripod used to increase depth of focus by being able to stop down to f. 32. This beautiful river in a remote part of the Indian reservation is little patronized by the fishing fraternity because it is not easily reached. 4x5 Speed Graphic camera; Ektachrome; f. 32 at 1/10th sec.; Schneider-Kreuznach Angulon 90mm lens; September; light conditions bright sun; meter reading f. 32."