Sonora: Fishermens' Paradise

Sonora: FISHERMENS' PARADISE By Robert B. Whitaker

Deep below the Arizona border in Mexico, a 90-mile finger of the Pacific probes some 600 miles into the North American continent in what must be considered the ocean's most daring bid to sever our great land.

Although the attempt failed, this gigantic expanse of water, known as the Gulf of California, created something entirely different and far more rewarding to sports-minded Americans. For today, the fabulous Gulf (or Sea of Cortez) is widely acclaimed as one of the world's greatest fish hatcheries!

Well over one thousand species of game and food fish churn its shimmering blue waters carrying out nature's piscatorial struggle for survival. Such bruising battlers as marlin, sailfish, roosterfish, yellowtail, dolphin and sea bass cruise the lonely Gulf chewing up all kinds of bait and artificial lures, as each year an increasing number of anglers hasten south-of-the-border in search of tacklebusting adventures.

The Republic of Mexico has been granted this prize fishing hole, with the state of Sonora ending up with about 40 per cent of its glistening white beaches and barren rock outcroppings. The western coast of the Gulf borders Baja California, while another one hundred miles of shoreline below Sonora flanks the Mexican state of Sinaloa.

Although the Gulf of California is encased on three sides by mostly undeveloped wilderness, Mexican entrepreneurs are rapidly recognizing the potential of this vast sport-fishing arena and building plush new resorts to serve comfortloving American tourists.

Some of the finest resorts are centered around Guaymas, a Sonoran seaport of 18,816 people, located 268 miles southwest of Nogales on Mexico Highway 15. To many anglers, Guaymas is the "heart" of the Gulf's finest fishing. Here you can surf-cast for sea trout and sierra mackerel, bottomfish for huge grouper and sea bass, fill a boat with tasty red snapper, or make a run out to San Pedro Island and catch colorful yellowtail while watching seals play tag with the fishing boats.

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CABIN CRUISERS AT GUAYMAS" BY RAY MANLEY. Guaymas, Sonora, on the Gulf of California, is a popular sports-fishing center, attracting an increasing number of sportsmen from the United States.

"SPORT FISHING PIER AT GUAYMAS" BY JOSEF MUENCH. Sport fishing pier on Bocochibampa Bay near Guaymas, Sonora. Crystal clear air of tropical softness, placid waters and curving sandy beaches are part of the delightful setting of this popular West Coast sportfishing resort. Marlin and sailfish of trophy size can be counted on in the waters of the Gulf of California during summer, but splendid fishing is found all year long. 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f. 16 at 1/50th sec.; 6" Xenar lens; May; sunny day.

"SAN CARLOS YACHT CLUB" BY RAY MANLEY. A new resort, offering all sorts of services and accommodations for the visitor, has been built at San Carlos Bay about ten miles up the coast from Guaymas. Shown here are some of the many boats belonging to members of the San Carlos Yacht Club. 5x7 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.18 at 1/50th sec.; 210 Symmar lens; February; bright sun; Weston Meter 400; ASA rating 50.

"SURF FISHING AT KINO BAY" BY JOSEF MUENCH. Kino Bay is located due west from Hermosillo and is served by a modern paved highway which then turns south joining Mexico Highway 15, approximately twenty-five miles north of Guaymas. Because of this highway, built mainly to serve the vast farming area along the Sonora River, Kino Bay is attracting more and more fishermen.

Surf-cast or boat them

During the hot summer months, this same area produces some of the finest marlin and sailfish action to be found in the world.

Also from Guaymas, anglers can board sea-worthy boats and take an exotic cruise across the Gulf to the remote shore of Baja Peninsula, where there exists an almost untapped reservoir of spectacular fishing, including all the species mentioned plus the much sought-after Mexican black snook or robalo. Cost of a 24-hour excursion -hour excursion for up to six people is $125 - six hours over, six hours back, with 12 hours of fantastic fishing. The price includes food, tackle and bait.

There's no such thing as an "off-season" at Guaymas. Nor, for that matter, is there a slack period anywhere on the Gulf. Fishing in the Sea of Cortez is a year 'round proposition, with the important game fish rotating through the season while a perennial crop of bottom fish and surface scrappers stay around adding consistency to the diet.

The fishing calendar at Guaymas typifies the diversified angling available throughout the year in the Gulf of California: January and February - yellowtail, totuava, grouper, sea bass, sierra mackerel, pompano, corvina, red snapper; March and April - yellowtail, totuava, grouper, sea bass, sierra mackerel, pompano, corvina, red snapper; May, June and July marlin, sailfish, dolphin, bonito, mackerel, grouper, sea bass, jewfish, big sharks; August, September and October - marlin, sailfish, dolphin, mackerel, bonito, roosterfish, corvina, yellowtail; November and December striped marlin, yellowtail, totuava, grouper, barracuda, pompano, corvina, rock bass, red snapper, bonefish.

In addition to these popular species, a spectacular new game fish is beginning to appear in the Gulf. The powerful wahoo a slender charge of piscatorial dynamite was first taken in significant numbers during 1963. The exotic speedster hits the Guaymas area about the same time as marlin and sailfish.

Sierra mackerel are so plentiful along the Sonoran coast that it's often difficult keeping them off the hook. In fact, you can stay in one of the fancy Guaymas hotels and take them within casting distance of your front door.

more than one thousand piscatorial species await the duel!

I had such an experience at the ultra-modern La Posada (Inn) de San Carlos hotel which overlooks beautiful San Carlos Bay. Rising one morning at dawn, I stood at the door admiring the brilliant sunrise casting golden glimmers across the bay. Suddenly the nostalgic mood was interrupted, as I saw forage fish skipping across the surface trying vainly to escape a ravenous school of mackerel. Still clad in pajamas, I grabbed a spinning rod and raced for the beach. Moments later, I was battling two and three pound sierras, with the salty surf foaming about my ankles.

But all sport fishing in “El Gulfo” isn't spiced by after-hour entertainment and cocktails. From the corvina and sierra-filled coves near Huatabampo to the brackish waters at the mouth of the Colorado River, most of the Sonoran coast is primitive and inaccessible.

The most popular fishing spots reached by vehicles are Santa Clara, Rocky Point (Puerto Peñasco), Desemboque, Puerto de Lobos, Libertad, Kino Bay, Guaymas, and Huatabampo. Of these eight points, only Rocky Point, Desemboque, Kino Bay, Guaymas and Huatabampo are located on what generally are considered passenger car roads.

Now let's take a run down the Sonoran coast for a closeup look at the fishing and facilities available.

At the extreme upper end of the Gulf, a recently improved road strikes off south from the border town of San Luis (near Yuma), across rolling sand dunes toward the mouth of the Colorado River. The road currently is paved to El Doctor (a small railroad settlement), but gets sandy below this point as it drops into the river delta.

The sandy trail isn't recommended for passenger cars below El Doctor, although the Mexicans are pushing to pave it all the way to Santa Clara a sleepy little fishing village that lies basking in the Gulf's gentle breezes.

Giant totuava come right up into the crashing surf here gorging on spawning grunion. The beaches offer tremendous surfcasting for husky sea bass, sierra mackerel, corvina, pompano and other tide-feeding species.

Santa Clara has practically no tourist facilities, so anglers should go prepared to rough it.

Next stop along the Sonoran coast is at Puerto Peñasco or Rocky Point. This peaceful little shrimping port is a favorite spot for Arizonans, being located only 210 miles from Phoenix on a paved highway. The border crossing at Lukeville is open between 8 a.m. and midnight.

Fishing is excellent both at Rocky Point and nearby Cholla Bay, where a group of enterprising American sportsmen have thrown up a shantytown of fishing huts and trailers. Boats can be rented at Rocky Point in sizes from small skiffs to 30-footers. Prices range from $5 to $20 per day for small craft, and up to $50 for chartering an open-water sailfish cruiser complete with Mexican guide.

One important point to remember in planning a fishing safari to Rocky Point or other small village on the Sonoran coast is to bring all your own tackle. Good fish-ing equipment is unavailable, except at Guaymas, and the rental outfits are likely to break apart under the strain of big fish.

There are good motel and hotel accommodations at Rocky Point, but it's wise to make reservations in advance - particularly on holiday weekends.

Although 75 per cent of the fishermen come to Rocky Point for bottom-fishing, there also is tremendous seasonal sport for some of the Gulf's most dynamic battlers. Popular game fish in the Rocky Point and Cholla Bay area include: sailfish, dolphins, skipjack bonito, pompano, sea trout and mackerel.

The billfish season usually begins a month later than at Guaymas with the best fishing hitting in August. Although sailfishing can be outstanding, Rocky Point is too far north for marlin runs.

A popular sport for kids is to hike the long sand beaches under a full moon scooping up grunion (smelt) which ride in on large waves, spawn, and coast back out on successive waves.

Three secluded estuaries below Rocky Point offer superb angling during periods of high tides. These tidal basins are unsurpassed for sea trout, croaker, sierra and pompano. Tides run very high here, averaging twentytwo feet or about seventeen feet more than at Guaymas.

Some seventy-five miles down the Sonoran coast from Rocky Point is the Seri Indian village of Desemboque. This tiny settlement of adobe huts is reached on a secondary road angling west for forty miles from Caborca, midway between Sonoita and Santa Ana on Mexico Highway 2.

Desemboque holds the main body of Seri Indians who were transported off Tiburon Island to the south because of disease, famine and the inability of the Mexican government to provide adequate medical care and supervision.

In the spring, members of the long-haired tribe stalk green turtles with gaffs and harpoons, while the rest of the year they live off commercial fish nets strung along the tidal bays, estuaries and sandy beaches. Extensive commercial fishing prompted construction of the improved

road leading into the priskive Sati mompanime. Sportlishing is good is the waters around. Desvan begne. Anglers who have made the und boast about.hunny sms of coreina and pampene. Although boat launchings nust be made in opm water, the sen gecerally is calm. There are to facilities at Desatabaqus, baner all epipmat and supplies must be handed in by fishamon. The added bons of a tập to Daansboque is a chance to meak a look at the only aboriginal Zodian telle pumpa ing in the part of Nunh America, About thaty miles down the montonens consiline hom Dεισιδαίας you cosis upon a high ridge, at the base of which is Puerto de Lobos and Tepoca Бау. Although there is poling askore but a low scattered nativa huts, the sua tears with game and food fish. Car vion aro operywhere ready to greh bearkar jigs and chrome plated spoons. Most Nehemen, however, come as Labos in quest of marmothi goupe, totuses, pisto bass and red shappas The red snapper is a fiue lightrackle fiskt-svanging Suer pounds with billient red sides and an angly disposten. At Lobos, you can ill a food frener with these delicious actan "panish in a matire of hennes. Snagy pors shiks well both on out beit and white fondue pes worked day over mck.rock.

Bill Valentins, was of the Gulf's most adventurous region, tells of pouring over a high cliff near Lobos where an aquarium-like pool and watching monster sea bass covering short in the crystal-clear water.

Looking far out to new sea from Lobos, you can see the dim shape of Angel de la Guarda Island. Fantastic fishing around the kind ramps, many adventurous anglers to brave the dangerous forty miles of open water but beware of sudden storms if you try it, for few guardian angels will be standing by or pull you from the sea Dressed in finest de Laureptam elf from Caborca. It is a treacherous 45 mile trip that requires a pickup truck or jeep. Sudden rain used to leave fishermen stranded for a week or more, but now the road has been improved with minimum grading.

From Lobos down to Liberiada a distance of some For many dive sea miles the shoreline is notched with tidal estuaries. Fishing in such spots is unexcelled for sierra, trout, sea bass, pompano, crevalle and other gamefish, which push in with the tide to feed on shrimp, crustaceans and forage fish, Liberal is famous for consistently good fishing. There is an old hotel and guesthouse near the beach, but otherwise the town has weathered away leaving only lonely The road into Libertad is even worse than the Lobos tell. Although it can be negotiated in a sturdy truck or jeep, more sensible anglers locate a friend with a plane. Crusing on down the wilderness coastline, before Libertad, you approach the mysterious bulge of Tiburon (shark) Island rising 4200 feet out of the azure water.

Thomas is located in the "notch" portion of the Gulf, where the Baja and Sonoran coasts squeeze together near their southernmost point. The channel, separating the Sonora mainland from Tiburon Island is only three miles wide. At the end of this narrow passage is Kino Bay - named for the famous Jesuit missionary who reportedly landed here on his mind-boggling trek that brought him through Mexico and into the southwestern United States There are two settlements on the bay, Old Kino and New Kino. Old Kino, once a thriving town, has drifted into tumbledown, oblivion, but across the bay is New Kino, where a Mexican company has developed Jangasties, a trailer court, motel and boat launching The Covana del Mar restaurant at New Kino features fresh-from-the-sea green turtle steaks and lobster (langosta).

Sea trout fishing is terrific around Kino Bay, being especially productive along the surf-swept rocks immediately behind New Kino Giant whales often are seen rolling though the “một vill," vanting guyses of spray high in the air, and beaning: a word scand one never never forgets.

Danger lasks in these waters, too. Killer whales - the most terrifying crostores in the sea-are fairly common in the lower Gulf of California. There voracious inanimals

Fun on the rocka-Kino Bay

travel in packs áttecking seals, perpoisex and baleen velales. They are way fond of feeding on the tender lipt and palatable tongue of their manuls largar cocains.

Mexican fidernier have great respect for killer windes since they easily cau capaise a boat selts the tremendous zowar panked in thuir sixteen to twenty-foot bodies.

A paved road leads to Kino Bay from Hermosillo, then swings and toward Guaymas on a newly completed thoroughfare that serves tricky landing from the windswept fields along the Big Salmon. This new stretch of pave ment - which isn't yet indicated on most road maps - comes out on Mexico Highway 15, approximately twenty-five miles north of Guaymas. The route makes it possible for Guaymas based anglers to make one-day fish ing sorties to Kino Bay, by chopping clasy miles off a trip that used to require backtracking to Hermosillo.

Although launching ramps are available at both Old and New Kino, they are unprotected from the wind and launchings can be hazardous. Guides and small skiffs can be rented at Kino Bay.

Next stop down the coast is a world famous Guay mas. Here Seberata find in amazing abundance - most of the prize game fish of the Gulf.

"Pound for pound, proclaims sage Gulf angler Bar Bilt Valantise, "the greatest fighters in the sea me yellowtail, roosterfish and jack crevalle - although not necessarily in that order All of these musclebound denizens of the deep plus marlin, sailfish and dolphin can be caught within a few minutes from Guaymes.

There are many fine motel and hotel accommodations in this economically important seaport, ranging ton from $4 to $6 a day for a single room-depending upon the view and luxurious accommodations desired. Charter fishing boats operate both from the city wharf and various ocean-fronting resort hotels.

For specific details concerning hotels, motels and chatter boat rates, write tar Castratto Nacional de Comer cão (Gumyasts Chambour of Commerce), Guaymes, So nera, Mexico.

A unique development currently is underway too.

Miles north of Gutymas at San Carlos Bay, whose a brand new town is boling created under the shadow of the Tetas de Cabra mountain peaks. "Nere Guaymas, features a seaside meter hotel, undir cour, homesises, restaurant hoat launching ramp and chanter servies, with the enchr sieu Garymas. Tult Club providing paremmis, view of the besatifal harbor.

Guaymas is particularly popular with skin divus and conchologists, wim enjoy hervesting the plentiful mues bers berr of shellfish. fish. A A shallow shalloy zidd consity at the end of Sax Carles Bay has become a favored hansit for clara diggers.

Some twenty-two miles offshore from Guaymas is San Pedro Island. The blue waves surrounding this bizarre tack loaded with bottom fish, and such seasonal species as sailfish, guadrin, roosterfish and yellowtail. Abalone lobsters are thick around the island, divers must use tou and keep a sharp eye out for ill-tempered moray eels which also habit the undersea caverns.

On a recent tly to to the isle, we coasted eighteen of the played for beams other hebbing in the waves of basking on the ocks.

The Guaymas to the Somon Sinaloa border is ap proximately one mare miles. This portion of the Sea of Cortez is characterised by rocky points, secluded caves, sandy beaches and little estuaries. All such placid appear ing spots cloud the innumerablve breeding of many thousands of finny adversaries, Huatabampe Bay, below Navejon, is a perfect lagoon for saltwater by fishermen using popping bugs and streamer lica The Gulf of California is a fishing paradise still undiscovered by many talented anglers. This, despite the fact that angling fishing can be even more exciting than along the Peruvian coast; yellowtail angling factor than off the San Diego shores; surfcasting more spectacular than at Nauset Beach; and the boston fishing more arm-fatiguing than in Florida Bay, No fishermen has ever resisted this mighty expanse of water. For, just as you begin thinking you can whip any fish in the sea, along comes a 3,000-pound manta ray to destroy the handy illusion.

AMBOS NOGALES

Red tape at the border amounts to little. U. S. 89 becomes the before-mentioned Mexico 15 on the Mexican side, and it's paved all the way to the capital. In its vigorous campaign to attract more and more tourists the Mexican Government has instigated some exceptional innovations. Radio Patrullas De Auxilio Turistico, known as the "Friendly Fleet," is an outstanding example. Continually on road alert, radio-controlled touristassistance patrols are ready to help out in any car emergency. The Friendly Fleet makes minor repairs, inflates exhausted tires, gives information, and administers firstaid, all free of charge. Gas, oil, and spare parts are at cost. This year will see a special grey-uniformed cadre operating on the Nogales, Sonora, side. Not regular police, but officers whose duty it will be to assist visitors to the town in any way they can.

There is one point that should be stressed. U.S. auto insurance is generally not valid in Mexico, save for twenty-five miles below the border. A minor car accident can cause all kinds of difficulty and delay, which can be avoided by taking out Mexican auto insurance. This is a simple matter and can be negotiated in a matter of minutes on either side of the line. Cost is modest and coverage is available for periods of one day up to one year. With its "Free Port" status no travel permits are required for trips into Nogales.

Beyond this point and for stays of some duration two types of tourist permits come in for consideration. One of these is issued for a visit not to exceed five days, the cost is fifty cents; the other is good for a visit up to six months and costs $3.00. No charges are made for children up to fifteen years old accompanied by their parents. At the Mexican perimeter an auto permit is issued. Proof of ownership must be presented as well as the make and year of the car and the motor serial and license plate numbers.

No passports are required of U.S. citizens, but some proof of citizenship is essential; a birth certificate is recommended, and for re-entry purposes, proof of a smallpox vaccination within the past three years is wise.

Under present regulations a U.S. citizen is allowed to bring back from Mexico within a 31-day period a duty-free maximum of $100 worth of goods for personal use. Naturalized citizens must carry either naturalization papers or a U.S. passport.

It's good to remember that although traveler's checks are accepted almost everywhere, personal checks on foreign banks are extremely difficult to cash in Mexico.

As for the rest, U.S.-Mexican customs regulations, etc., answers can be found right at the border. Travel agencies and bureaus are numerous in Ambos, and a postcard addressed to the Chamber of Commerce, Nogales, Arizona, will supply all the desired information. The Pemex Travel Club is a good name to keep in mind.

For those not using automobiles there are other ways to make the West Coast journey. There are planes that leave the Nogales, Sonora, airport, but the unschedules are skittish and temperamental. This method is not suggested.

Aeronaves de Mexico has a daily flight from Tucson's International Airport to Mexico City with stops at Hermosillo, Ciudad Obregón, Culiacán, and Guadalajara. The round-trip fare is approximately $130. This method is endorsed.

Continued from page 6 MILEAGE FROM NOGALES TO MEXICO CITY ON HIGHWAY NO. 15 MILEAGE FROM MEXICALI TO SANTA ANA ON HIGHWAY NO. 2 Progress Born of Blueprints, Dreams and Concrete

For train-lovers, Ferrocaril del Pacifico leaves Nogales with comfortable, refrigerated first-class Pullman accommodations and dining car, every afternoon. Nogales to Hermosillo, first-class ticket, costs $6.41 (2nd class $3.20) and the time is five hours. $11 will take you to Guaymas, first-class, in ten hours. Mazatlán will take about 25 hours and you can do it first-class for something like $17.

First-class bus service can also serve. These buses run south on an hourly basis starting at 7 a.m. and terminating at 9 p.m. The Nogales-Guaymas run is six hours for less than $3, which is hard to beat for the economically-inclined.

Tradition is strong in Mexico, but progress is stronger. For the next few years Ambos Nogales will be in something of a ferment. Mexico's National Border Progress has undertaken a complete revamping of its Gateways. For Nogales, Sonora, this means not only new customs buildings and wide avenues of entry, but a complete face-lifting for the city.

New city parks, picnic areas, facilities for cultural events and exchange, new streets, relocated commercial centers, green boulevards, are all planned in a multimillion dollar project. Estimates have it that Nogales, Sonora, will be actively engaged in this endeavor for five to ten years and the tourist now visiting Ambos can see the construction and beautification under way, which is sweeping and drastic. On the Arizona side there are also developments; new custom buildings mainly to coincide with the changes across the line, an eight-lane highway that will connect the twin-cities by 1985 extending south three miles into Sonora, and a new truck route that will pass several blocks to the west of the downtown business complex.

There is the expression, Como Mexico no hay dos." ("There are no two Mexicos.") This viewpoint may also apply to the Arizona-Sonora twin-cities. There are no two Nogales, only Ambos.

For all the hubbub and bustling, which is bound to create a new image and conceivably a new way of life for Ambos Nogales, its basic joy is locked in mutuality and the realization that the best way to have a friend is to be one.

Yours sincerely

ROCK WRITINGS: Understandably, favorite issues of the ARIZONA HIGHWAYS magazine are so because of personal interests. At least this is so for me so far as the September issue. It is superb. Especially William Coxon's "Rock Writings" article. Did Mr. Coxon ever publish any books on the subject?

Admittedly I am no archaeologist, but as a "Desert Rat, 2nd Class" I've done a bit of wandering throughout the Southern California and Nevada desert country. Periodically one encounters petroglyphs, of course, and their fascination is all the more frustrating for knowOf the few books I've seen on the subject of petroglyphs, few seem to be written for laymen such as I. Mr. Coxon seems to be an exception with his craftsmanship blending of authoritativeness and well-written interest.

If he has written any books, or you can recommend any in a similar vein, I would be most appreciative of your recommendations for such reading.

George H. Koenig Los Angeles, California

FROM SOUTH AFRICA: I recently had the good fortune of finding your November issue of last year in a book stall here in this city. I was very impressed with the art of Philip C. Curtis. He repels as well as attracts and interests the viewers, and he makes you think. Anson Goodrich Cape Town, Union of South Africa