ARIZONA'S ENCHANTING DESERT WILDERNESS

Arizona's ENCHANTING DESERT

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, a land of unique beauty, lies on the Mexican border one hundred fifty miles southwest of Phoenix. It was established as a national monument in 1937 to help preserve one of the most unusual segments of our western deserts. Here, as in all other desert country, nature has endowed each plant and animal with inherent characteristics to help it survive the seemingly insurmountable odds of existing in an arid environment. Although establishment of the Monument has been fairly recent, within the past 30 years, knowledge of the area dates back almost to the time when white man first set foot in America. During the mid 1500's, when Coronado's expeditions were searching for the famed Seven Cities of Cibola, one of his captains, Melchoir Diaz, passed through the Organ Pipe area on his way to the Gulf of California. Diaz Peak, which can be seen from the Ajo Mountain Drive, or Monument Headquarters, lies in the southeast corner of the Monument and has been named in his honor.

The highest peak in the Growler Range, seen from the Puerto Blanco Drive, was named after the Jesuit priest, Father Kino, who in the 1600's was instrumental in establishing a chain of missions in Mexico. In 1698 Father Kino made his way up to what is now the Mexican border village of Sonoyta and founded the Mission of San Marcel. From Sonoyta, he pushed west to the present-day site of Yuma, but the way was so rugged and destitute of water that it soon became known as "the Devil's Highway."

Many a caravan, using this course during the California gold rush days and the early settlement of the West, suffered loss of both lives and property due to hazardousness of the route and the aridness of the region. Today a paved highway, running parallel to the Mexican-Organ Pipe border, follows essentially the old road of "El Camino del Diablo" but, in contrast, the trail is now marked by a ribbon of pavement instead of the bleached bones of both men and animals who had been unsuccessful in their attempt to cross the blazing desert. Oddly enough the area which encompasses the Monument, although continually traversed by our pioneers and gold seekers, was not a part of the United States until after the Gadsden Purchase of 1853.

The Monument now covers an area of approximately 516 square miles. Arizona 85 runs directly south from Gila Bend to the picturesque mining town of Ajo, takes a slight kink to the east but turns again south to enter the Monument at its northernmost boundary. From there it is seventeen miles to the Monument's Headquarters, Visitor Center and public campground.

A Visit To Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument WILDERNESS

To the nation at large, Organ Pipe is probably one of the least familiar of our national monuments. This can possibly be attributed to the fact that during the summer months, when most vacationers are traveling, it is Organ Pipe's hottest and most undesirable season. However, it is a favorite spot from late fall to early spring for those who follow the sun and the seasons in their mobile homes. At the height of the winter season over one hundred and fifty of these trailers can be counted in Organ Pipe's very excellent campground. At Monument Headquarters interesting exhibits of desert life are on display but to appreciate the real beauty of the Monument, time should be allowed to leisurely travel the 51-mile Puerto Blanco and the 18-mile Ajo Mountain Drive. A self-guiding booklet is available with accompanying nature notes, upon request, from the Rangers at Visitor Center.

Across from Monument Headquarters, heading east, is the Ajo Mountain Drive, an 18-mile graded dirt road which winds and hugs the contours of the land but, unlike so many desert roads, is perfectly safe for a modern car to travel. Branching to the left, as it is a one way drive, the road climbs steadily toward the Ajo Mountains, the crest of which marks the eastern boundary of the Monument. Stopping along the first portion of the drive, an excellent view can be seen of the vast Sonoran desert, fascinating, austere and very inhospitable to life that has not adapted itself to survival on its rugged terrain. Five miles to the south is the Mexican border, but the eye can penetrate far within Mexico proper. Directly west are the Puerto Blanco Mountains which begin near Headquarters, the highest peak in the range being Pinkley Peak, named for Frank Pinkley who was superintendent of all the Southwestern National Monuments in the early 1900's. Looking directly south from Birdseye Point, on the Ajo Mountain Drive, a very good view of the Sonoyta Valley spreads out before the visitor.

Nearing the top of the drive, the Ajo Mountains suddenly tower above. Like most of the mountains in this region they are of volcanic origin and are the result of vast lava flows as opposed to the more familiar and spectacular volcanic eruptions which pour from a fiery crater. The range itself was formed by giant upheavals which exposed layers of lava and compressed volcanic ash, known as tuff. This upheaval, of course, happened many millions of years ago and consequently, throughout the ages, the softer materials have eroded away leaving exposed a very rough, rugged face. It is in this area that a natural arch has been formed, far up on the side of the canyon wall.

The road from Arch Canyon winds into Estes Canyon where a trail leads from the parking area to Bull Pasture. The water and greenery found here attract many of the larger animals found in the Monument. Farther along the drive is Teddy Bear Pass, named because the hillside slopes are covered with the Teddy Bear cholla, a fuzzy looking but very deceptive cactus. Its coloring gives it the appearance of being rather soft and furry but its joints are so constructed that upon slightest contact the joints break off and the spiny portions become embedded in a person's clothing or an animal's fur. These These spines are extremely difficult to remove but, again, it's nature's way of aiding the plant to survive, for each spiny joint, when dropped and partially covered with loose soil, is capable of taking root and producing a new plant.

A hundred yards or so down the slope, from the Teddy Bear Pass parking area, is a large cristate Organ Pipe cactus. This odd growth can be found occasionally on saguaro and organ pipe cacti and, although many opinions have been advanced as to its cause a precise answer has never been forthcoming. Leaving Teddy Bear Pass the road descends across slanting plains known as bajadas, a Spanish word meaning "outwash plain." These gentle slopes are the result of countless years of erosion by wind and water. During each storm, rocks and soil, which have been carried from the surrounding hills, are deposited on these bajadas. Continuing the descent, the Ajo Mountain Drive returns to Monument Headquarters.

The Puerto Blanco Drive, like the Ajo Mountain Drive, begins at Headquarters but travels north for some distance over gently sloping plains in contrast to the mountainous beginning of the Ajo Mountain Drive. Close observation along the roadside reveals sizable areas covered with a myriad of small stones which have become embedded in the soil and given the name "desert pavement." During a violent storm a sheet of water literally floods down from the nearby hills carrying with it pebbles and silt. As the water gradually loses its force, it deposits the pebbles on the gentle sloping plains, carrying the silt to the valleys below. Desert winds continually sweep the loose soil, giving a pavement like appearance.

At the northernmost point of the the Puerto Blanco Drive is Dripping Springs, one of the few places within the entire Monument where water is available. If it were not for these scattered springs and seeps, larger animals, such as desert bighorn, desert mule deer and coyote, could never survive. The spring is but a short climb from the parking area; however, a rather steep trail continues on for another quarter of a mile to a viewpoint where spread out below is the Ajo Valley. On a clear day the white plumes of smoke, rising from the Phelps-Dodge smelters in the town of Ajo, are visible against a deep blue sky. Also from this vantage point can be seen countless dry stream beds called arroyos, crisscrossing the desert floor. Not one permanent stream can be found within the entire Monument, but let the traveler beware who is foolish enough to let himself be caught in one of these arroyos during a storm or flash flood. For without warning, these harmless looking stream beds can become raging torrents and, depending upon the severity of the storm, are quite capable of rolling boulders the size of a small car before the rampaging water.

At various times, during the long history of the Organ Pipe area, ranchers, prospectors and Indians have lived within the Monument's borders. Evidence of their having lived there can still be seen in a number of places. Between Dripping Springs and Quitobaquito is an old mine shaft, boarded off to keep the unwary from accidentally falling in. A bit farther down the road stands a dilapidated shack, stock corral and watering trough. The last Indian family moved from the area a year or two ago.

NOTES FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS ORGAN PIPE CACTUS NATIONAL MONUMENT, ARIZONA'S ENCHANTING DESERT WILDERNESS, IS A WONDERLAND FOR THE DISCERNING PHOTOGRAPHER OPPOSITE PAGE

"NATURAL ARCH" DARWIN VAN CAMPEN. Taken along the Ajo Mountain Loop Drive in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. The arms of the stately Organ Pipes seem to be forever pointing out interesting scenes in their scenic habitat such as this natural arch in the Ajo Mountains which form the western boundary of the monument. 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.30 at 1/25th sec.; 360mm Tele-Xenar lens.

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"ALONG PUERTO BLANCO DRIVE" DARWIN VAN CAMPEN. Taken in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument from Dripping Springs along the Puerto Blanco Drive. This is a particularly interesting area along the Puerto Blanco (Spanish for white gate) Drive. It offers not only the interest of the springs themselves but panoramic views of the surrounding desert home of the Organ Pipe cactus as well. 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.32 at 1/25th sec.; 127mm Ektar lens; April; bright sunlight; Weston Meter 400; ASA rating 64.

"VARIED DESERT DRESS" RAY MANLEY. A pleasing desert scene in Arizona's enchanting desert wilderness. 4x5 Calumet View camera; Daylight Ektachrome; f.18 at 1/50th sec.; 135mm Symmar lens; June; bright sunlight; meter reading 350.

"INVITATION FOR A DESERT DRIVE" BILL AND MARY LOU STACKHOUSE. Taken approximately halfway between beginning of Ajo Mountain Drive and Arch Canyon. Brittlebush in bloom in foreground. Young Saguaro and Organ Pipe cactus on hillside. 4x5 Deardorff camera; Ektachrome; f.29 at 1/25th sec.; 8" Ektar lens; early morning.

"IN DRIPPING SPRINGS AREA" CARLOS ELMER. In Dripping Springs area, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Arizona. The little winding desert road leads to Dripping Springs, a small oasis in the arid rocks and sands of this beautiful desert at Arizona's southern border. 4x5 Burke & James Press camera; Kodachrome; f.14 at 1/25th sec.; 6" Goertz Aerotar lens; spring; bright day; Meter reading 400; ASA rating 10.

"TEDDY BEAR PASS" BILL AND MARY LOU STACKHOUSE. Photo shows Teddy Bear Pass on Ajo Mountain Loop Drive. Palo verde, ocotillo and Teddy Bear cactus in bloom. 4x5 Deardorff camera; Ektachrome; f.32 at 1/2 sec.; 6" Ektar lens with Pola screen (21/2 factor); May; late afternoon.

"APRIL BLOSSOMS" DON VALENTINE. The eternal miracle of spring is evidenced in this April study of a desert area in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. Brittlebush in bloom among the cacti adds a festive note to the scene.

"HIGHWAY TO HEADQUARTERS" CHARLES C. NEELEY. Approaching headquarters, traveling north, from the campground to the south. Blue palo verde (Cercidium floridum) is the yellow-flowered tree on the left.

"ORGAN PIPE CACTUS IN BLOOM" JOSEF MUENCH. Portrait of the Organ Pipe Cactus in bloom (Lemaireocereus thurberi.) This columnar cactus produces its flowers at or near the end of the stems during May, opening during the night and closing again soon after sunrise. Papago Indians harvest the fruit. They boil the sweet juice to a consistency of syrup and use the pulp for winter food, 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.18 at 1/25th sec.; 6" Xenar lens; May.

"OASIS IN THE DESERT" DARWIN VAN CAMPEN. Taken at Quitobaquito Springs in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, along the Puerto Blanco Drive. This historic lush, green oasis, striking in its contrast to the arid desert which surrounds it, has served as a watering place for parched desert travelers since early Spanish days.

"BRISTLING BEAUTIES" DARWIN VAN CAMPEN. Taken along the Ajo Mountain Loop Drive in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. The monument is delightful to visit in any but the hottest months of the year but in early spring it is at itscolorful best with the various cacti providing flowerful outbursts of brilliant hues ranging from the reds and yellows of the hedgehogs and prickly pears to the delicate creamy white of the saguaros. 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.32 at 1/25th sec.; 90mm. Angulon lens; April bright sunlight; Weston Meter 400.

CENTER PANEL

"PANORAMA NEAR ARIZONA 85" JOSEF MUENCH. This scene was taken a short distance to the east of the main road (Arizona 85) which traverses Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. Spring in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. A many-branched Organ Pipe Cactus (Lemaireocereus thurberi) stands among the yellow of the brittlebush and many other green d desert plants with a background of the serrated Ajo Mountains. 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.20 at 1/50th sec.; 6" Xenar lens; April; sunny day.

"ALONG DRIPPING SPRINGS TRAIL" DARWIN VAN CAMPEN. Taken along the Ajo Mountain Loop Drive looking east toward the Ajo Mountains. The Ajo Mountains, which reach a height of 4,808 feet, received their name from the Spanish word, ajo, meaning garlic. This is in references to the ajo lily (whose garlic-like root is edible) which is found growing in these mountains. This range also boasts an abundance of animal life including the mule and whitetail deer and desert bighorn. 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome f.30 at 1/25th sec.; 127mm. Ektar lens; April; bright sunlight; Weston Meter 400.

"DESERT MOUNTAINSCAPE" DARWIN VAN CAMPEN. Taken from the Dripping Springs Trail, along the Puerto Blanco Drive in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.25 at 1/25th sec.; 127mm. Ektar lens; April early morning sunlight; Weston Meter 250.

"HERE CACTUS IS KING" PHIL R. BENEDICT. Photo taken about eight miles north of the Ranger Station in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument; 4x5 View camera; Eктаchrome; f.16 at 1/25th sec.; 81/4" Symmar lens; June; early morning; Lunasix 19 meter reading; ASA rating 64.

"A DESERT DAY IS ENDING" PHIL R. BENEDICT. Photo taken about ten miles south of northern boundary of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. 4x5 View camera; Ektachrome; f.8 at 1/25th sec.; 81/4" Symmar lens; June; sunset; Lunasix 141/2 meter reading; ASA rating 64.

"DESERT IN PASTEL DRESS" PHIL R. BENEDICT. Photo taken off of Arizona 85 highway a few miles within Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument from the north entrance. 4x5 View camera; Ektachrome; f.11 at 1/25th sec.; 81/4" Symmar lens; June; sunset; Lunasix 151/2 meter reading.

"AN ORGAN PIPE SUNSET" JOSEF MUENCH. Photo taken along scenic Ajo Mountain Drive in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, a loop drive bringing the visitor in close contact of the main features. Never is the desert more beautiful than at sunset, when the gaunt tubular-shaped cactus is silhouetted against the evening sky. 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.16 at 1/25th sec.; 6" Xenar lens; April; at sunset.

"ORGAN PIPES IN SILHOUETTE" JOSEF MUENCH. This photo of crimson skies and Organ Pipe cacti was taken in the vicinity of the campground in the Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.11 at 1/10th sec.; 6" Xenar lens; April; at sunset.

LAST PAGE IN COLOR FOLIO

"NEAR DRIPPING SPRINGS PICNIC AREA" CHARLES C. NEELEY. Taken near Dripping Springs picnic area (not to be confused with Dripping Springs). This was a stormy day with frequent showers. A break in the clouds to the east provided the momentary sunshine. It was raining in this area up to ten minutes before the picture was taken. Burke & James View camera; Daylight Ektachrome; f.22 at 1/50th sec.; 210mm. Symmar lens; March; bright morning sunlight.

Quitobaquito is like an oasis in the desert, for here several springs and seeps feed a pond and supply enough water to support the growth of a few cottonwood trees. This welcome shade has provided refuge in years past for many a weary traveler, from Diaz and Father Kino to the more recent emigrants of our gold rush days. Even today it is a most refreshing sight to see the cottonwoods after driving over hot desert roads where a saguaro, no matter how tall or how old, affords little protection from a broiling sun.

Living in the waters of Quitobaquito are a small species of fish known as Pursey minnows or desert pup-fish. This small minnow is said to live in the Sonoyta River which is a mile or two south of the Monument and also in the lower Colorado, indicating that perhaps at one time these three sources of water were connected in some way. However, no historical record of their connection has been found. The Pursey minnow (cyprinodon macu-larius) can survive water temperatures of over 100 degrees F. with a saline content so concentrated a person could not swallow it.Leaving Quitobaquito the Loop road turns east skirt-ing along a barbed wire fence which, although located sixty feet north of the actual international line, is for all practical purposes the boundary between the United States and Mexico. Half way between Quitobaquito and the Arizona 85 is a worthwhile side trip of four miles to Senita Pass. This relatively small area near the pass is one of the few places in the United States where the senita cactus can be found growing in its natural habitat. At first glance the senita looks very much like the organ pipe cac-tus but upon closer examination the senita's stem is found to have only five to seven ribs or "flutes" while the organ pipe may have as many as nine or ten. The whiskery spines, near the tip of each stem, resemble an old man's beard and are thus responsible for the plant having been named senita, which means "old one." Returning from the pass the Puerto Blanco Drive continues east for a mile or so, turns north through some low hills before rejoining the main highway through the Monument.

The evening and early morning hours are the most beautiful times to view the desert and, from Organ Pipe's campground the visitor can sit at dusk and watch the soft pinks and lavenders of early evening fade into the deeper blues and purples of night, as darkness settles over the Monument. To the south, lights from Lukeville (the American port of entry) and Sonoyta become visible. Stars begin to twinkle with a crisp brilliance so rarely seen in our modern day cities and the silence of a desert night envelops the Monument. Early risers will see the dawn again brush the mountain tops with all the delicate pastel colors, gradually spilling them over into the valleys below as the sun rises behind the Ajo Mountains.

In the future Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument may gain National Park status by act of Congress. It has been proposed that the area encompassing the present monument plus most of the Cabeza Prieta Game Range and part of the Tinajas Alta area be designated as the Sonoran Desert National Park.