Red Mountain

Red Mountain, as a young volcano, was probably no more spectacular than most of its contemporary cones which formed in the San Francisco Volcanic Field of Arizona in about the late Tertiary Geological Period.

Of course it had its spectacular moments, as volcanos will, with unruly outbursts of fiery lava and volcanic bombs. But it probably reached its eventual maximum height of 1,000 feet above the surrounding plateau without any more than the usual fanfare expected of a rising young lava spewer.

Now, however, in its inactive maturity, it offers seekers of the unusual one of the most interesting littleknown scenic areas in northern Arizona. Here, just thirty miles from the city of Flagstaff, exists the rare opportunity to explore at first hand the heart of an extinct volcano a strange world of hardened lava and fantastic weather-sculptured formations that makes each of its infrequent visitors feel like an "Alice" in a volcanic wonderland. But while Alice reached her wondrous destination via a frightful fall, Red Mountain explorers enjoy the convenience of a level trail-like wash. This handy path leads directly into the volcano's center, where the forces of erosion have exposed in spectacular fashion its internal structure.

Red Mountain is a part of the accumulation of volcanic cones and lava flows which covers approximately 3,000 square miles of the 7,000-foot-high Colorado Plateau south of the Grand Canyon and north of the Mogollon Rim. This area, created by several periods of volcanic activity, is known as the San Francisco Volcanic Field. The name is taken from its largest creation, the famous San Francisco Peaks, whose Humphrey's Peak is Arizona's elevation champ at 12,680 feet above sea level.

Another famous product of the field's volcanic art is Sunset Crater. This fascinating cone and surrounding area have been made into a national monument that is enjoyed annually by thousands of enthusiastic visitors. However, as interesting and educational as the crater is, it cannot match Red Mountain in either its amazing internal exposure or in the ease with which this exposure may be viewed.

Each area, in its own right, is an excellent and highly scenic example of the effects of vulcanism. In fact, as they are only about twenty air miles (fifty miles by car) apart, the National Park Service might do well to consider the possibility of adding Red Mountain to Sunset Crater National Monument as a detached unit. If such a plan should prove feasible it would help insure permanent protection to the new area from vandalism (which fortunately as yet is at an absolute minimum) and add substantially to the scope and interest of the monument as a whole.

As yet, Red Mountain has not gained the fame it deserves despite being passed every day by hundreds of travelers hurrying to or from the Grand Canyon's South Rim. But no flashing neon or giant billboard proclaims its wonders, and such is its anonymity that most map makers fail to even indicate its existence. Fast-moving motorists on U. S. 180 about thirty miles northwest of Flagstaff hardly notice the small sign erected by the National Forest Service which modestly points out a little-traveled dirt road leading to the mountain about two miles to the southwest. So, oblivious of the exceptional opportunity they have missed, most of them continue on their way leaving Red Mountain to continue its existence in relative obscurity only a figurative "stone's throw" from the busy highway.

There are those few, however, whose spirit of adventure or curious nature prompt them to try the little road, unpromising and unapplauded though it may seem. They will not go unrewarded.

Their route leads through a relatively open piñon-and-juniper-studded terrain typical of this portion of the Coconino National Forest. The road, easily passable by most passenger cars, heads southwestward in a leisurely fashion, making a rather wobbly beeline toward its coneshaped destination.

From here a hint of the exceptional exposure of the volcano's internal composition may be seen near the top of its dome. But two dark hills lying on either side of the entrance to the exposed core area, or central amphitheater, prevent an unobstructed view.

About halfway to the mountain a road branches to the right, ending eventually in dry Hull Wash, which emits from the amphitheater. This is a good approach to the mountain, but the road is usually deeply rutted and not recommended for vehicles with low clearance.

It is safer to continue on past this branch a short distance to a point where the road begins to climb rather abruptly. From anyplace along this slope it is an easy walk down the northwest side of the hill into Hull Wash.

This wash provides a natural, almost unobstructed pathway into the heart of the volcano. Sandy but firm underfoot, it soon narrows into a gorge between the two dark hills which had been visible from a distance. They are composed mostly of black cinders and lapilli, an interesting, pebble-sized, glassy form of lava which is also found abundantly in the wash.

The tracks of various animals, including those of deer and coyotes, may frequently be seen and are often more numerous than the human variety.

Several kinds of birds also inhabit the area. Their high-pitched melodies and frequent flashes of color add considerable charm to their unusual homeland. The holes and deep recesses occurring in the exposed internal wall of the mountain provide a number of hawks with ideal nesting sites, and some of the deeper caves have been appropriated by bat colonies as places of repose.

Several large Ponderosa pines cast pleasant shadows across the trail. They appear especially fresh and green against their dark lava backgrounds and help to make the short, easy walk to the amphitheater particularly enjoyable. At the amphitheater entrance the wash narrows further under the restrictive influence of two large formations projecting from the steep cinder slopes on either side of the gorge. At this point there is a small, stone dam built many years ago by an unknown opportunist, apparently to provide a readily available supply of water. The area behind the dam has long since completely silted in, creating an abrupt upper level to the trail. This is not a serious obstacle, however. The dam can be climbed quite easily, using a projecting pipe as a step.

Only a short distance farther, the gorge widens into the fantastically eroded landscape of Red Mountain's central amphitheater. Visitors entering for the first time this strange volcanic world may well experience the age-old thrill of explorers venturing into an unknown land.

There is little in the almost unbroken silence and unspoiled grandeur to hint of the close encroachment of civilization.

Cap rocks of lava which were responsible for the formation of these prolific stone columns are still worn by many. Those that have lost their protection have eroded down relatively fast, acquiring in the process many weird shapes. These resemble anything, depending upon the imagination of the viewer, from the Colossus of Rhodes to a fat-bellied pigmy. Indeed, where the sculpturing forces of nature have been most ardently at work, whole colonies of these pigmy-like forms have been created.

Interesting passageways and narrow box canyons lead in labyrinthian fashion from the main wash. Most of them wind aimlessly among the formations until terminated by a wall of tuff. Some are blocked by giant chunks of lava that have fallen from the almost perpendicular southwest wall which forms the major portion of the amphitheater. The wrinkled face of this cliff, which towers nearly eight hundred feet above the amphitheater's floor, is pockmarked where these huge masses of lava have weatheredout through the ages. It provides an impressive backdrop to the lavish volcanic display and serves to indicate vividly the manner in which Red Mountain was formed.

Its wrinkles are actually concentric layers, roughly parallel to the profile of the mountain. These were built up one by one as the crater was formed through an accumulation of volcanic explosions.

The cathedral-like atmosphere may cause them to become instinctively subdued, but their eyes will be kept busy exploring the many features of the amazing scene.

Like a huge outdoor gallery, the amphitheater features the work of that greatest of sculptors called Nature. It is filled with uninhibited masterpieces done in volcanic tuff, a porous rock composed of various volcanic materials cemented together into a solid mass. Colorfully conceived in subtle shades ranging from yellow-brown to red, a myriad of incredible forms, thousands of years in the making, rise in tribute to the unhurried, never satisfied genius of their creator.

Tall pinnacles and columns of sun-glistened rock stand on spurs projecting from the walls. They point majestically toward the blue canopy of the sky-like gleaming rocket ships poised on launching pads awaiting their journey into the heavens.

These formations are in varying stages of development. Some are hardly separated from the mountain itself, while others stand alone in an independence that has taken many centuries to achieve.

The geological story of the volcano's creation has been told by Wallace W. Atwood in an article published in 1906 by the Journal of Geology. This treatise, titled Red Mountain, Arizona: A Dissected Cone, was based on a field trip made by Atwood about sixty years ago, and is apparently the only detailed study ever made of the volcano.

His research indicated that sometime, late in the Tertiary Period, Red Mountain began its existence as a secondary volcanic vent on the outskirts of the San Francisco Volcanic Field. There followed a series of explosions that built up a cone of fragmented material. This was deposited at ever-increasing angles as the cone grew to a height of several hundred feet.

Each explosion deposited a uniform layer between one and two inches thick. Lavas rose into the crater and volcanic bombs (spherically shaped masses of lava which have been ejected from a volcano) were formed. It was estimated by Atwood that from 4,000 to 5,000 explosions were required to build the cone to its present size. This estimate is doubtlessly on the conservative side, as it does not allow for the two hundred feet lost through erosion from the crater's original height.

Prevailing winds during the time of the explosions carried much of the volcanic material to the northeast. As a consequence this side became the highest portion of the volcano's rim.

Near the end of the mountain's growth a small quantity of lava flowed part way down the southwest slope and is today exposed about one hundred feet below the summit in several locations.

Precipitation during the period of each eruption as well as more recent rains have assisted in cementing together the various fragmented materials into the tuff of which the mountain is largely composed. Included are various feldspars, hornblendes, and pyroxenes in the form of small crystals. These are found in abundance not only throughout the tuff but in the bed of the wash as well.

Rain and running water since the cessation of volcanic activities have partially dissected the cone, washing out completely the unprotected northeast side. This has resulted in the remarkable internal exposure that extends almost to the mountain's core. The lava-capped southwest side has remained relatively undamaged.

A different perspective of the amphitheater can be gained by viewing it from the crest of the large cinder hill forming the enclosure's east side. It may be reached directly from the floor of the amphitheater by a steep climb, but the soft footing makes this a laborious project.

It is much easier to return to the road and drive on to where it ends near the top of the slope. From here, a short walk to the right affords a rewarding view.

Of botanical interest in this area is the amazing existence of a number of prickly pear cacti. They more than live up to their species reputation for adaptability by clinging to what must be an extremely precarious existence on the loose, almost barren volcanic slope.

Also struggling in a valiant attempt at survival are several stunted pines with their partially exposed root skeletons bleached in striking contrast to the dark cinders.

The vantage point of the hill gives an excellent overall impression of Red Mountain's interior but does not offer the far-reaching vista that can be enjoyed from the top of the volcano's dome.

Unfortunately, there are no trails to the summit, and the difficult footing and ever-increasing angle of the slope demand an abundance of will power and physical stamina from those who attempt the climb. Their destination is actually a long and surprisingly narrow crescentic ridge that drops off quickly on either side of its twenty-foot width.

The reward for a successful ascent is a 360-degree panoramic view that provides a visual "who's who" of the region's most famous scenic attractions.

Across the sweeping expanse to the north are the rugged cliffs of the Grand Canyon's North Rim. They form a dark line along the distant horizon that leads toward the colorful Painted Desert Country and Little Colorado River Valley more to the east. Southeast of Red Mountain the always-majestic San Francisco Peaks dominate the landscape. Their impressive forms tower above such lesser volcanic lights farther south as Kindrick Peak, Sitgreaves Mountain, and Bill Williams Mountain. To the west the view encompasses a number of smaller volcanic cones rising between 500 and 1,000 feet above their bases. Most of them display the domeshaped form common in this locality and closely resemble Red Mountain as it appears from the southeast or southwest side, where the dissection of its cone is not discernible.

Surrounded as it is by such renowned attractions, Red Mountain remains an almost "undiscovered island" in the incredible "ocean of scenery" that makes up Northern Arizona. As more and more "tourist-explorers" make its discovery for themselves, however, it seems certain to eventually become one of the recognized scenic "musts" of the Flagstaff area. Meanwhile, unheralded but worthy, it awaits the viewing pleasure of all who will come.

SPRING DAWN

A golden sari bejewelled with rose sunbeams bound with blue satin.

I HEARD THE RAIN

Rain murmured to the fallen leaves Like some old crone who mourns, and grieves For spring time's purple scented night, For summer warmth and golden light.

The autumn day was dim and long And when it came to even-song I heard the rainfall's bitter weeping As its lone vigil it was keeping.

And all night long it vainly tried To find some way to come inside The sad Fall rain, so old and lost And with the dead leaves tempest-tost.

DESERT BIRD

Pretty bird, sailing the blue way. Are you an Apache, too?

You go home, to your house of straw in the sun.

If I could fly, I would run my hands over the tops of the high mountains.

Come down, little bird. Lean on the world, and let the desert crawl inside you.

THE ROAD SKIMS BY

The road skims by town after town, Each dressed in flowing gingham gown, In starchy gown of gold and green With ribbon sash of emerald sheen. Their sun-hats are all shades of brown.

The sun looks down with glaring frown, The painted wind, a tattered clown, Sweeps the prairies fresh and clean As the road skims by town after town.

Fat tumbleweeds prance up and down, Like comic jesters of the Crown! Each one devoted to his Queen, Performs his quaint and brisk routine But just the small towns win renown, As the road skims by town after town.

SOMETIMES

The clouds, like dream ships, sail a sea of blue; Inviting me to leave a mundane task And charter space to some dreamland and do The things I would, without the need to ask Is this thing that I do of right or wrong - But live as carefree as a summer's song!

EDITOR IN JAPAN:

Enclosed is a photograph of a friend in Tokyo suburbs, reading a favorite magazine of his ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. Since he is the editor of a colorful and beautiful annual produced in Tokyo by the Asahi Shimbun (the New York Times of Japan), I thought you might like to see a complimentary copy of This Is Japan, 1966, which he so ably edits.

Of all the gift subscriptions I have sent abroad to friends, there is none received with so many words of praise as ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. Your Christmas issue heads my list of gifts to friends abroad who warrant more than a Christmas card. While working overseas with the Japanese people, I often used ARIZONA HIGHWAYS in connection with lectures, sometimes projecting your fine photographs of the Grand Canyon on the screen, against the music of the Grand Canyon Suite by Grofe. Rozetta Thurston Cardwell Phoenix, Arizona (Once an Arizonan always an Arizonan at heart; I am returning with a feeling that this is home a good place to live!

RECEPTION IN CANADA:

When one is buried in sixty inches of white snow in Canada's top Laurentian Mountains (Ste-Adèle) and receives as a Xmas Gift your beautiful magazine, from a dear cousin (Charles E. Burman, of Mesa, Arizona) she falls into an ecstasy and counts the days until she can undertake a trip to visualize with her own eyes nature's wonderful and miraculous scenery, which is beyond imagination. Considering that yesterday it was 40° below zero, one feels warmer while reading your magazine. Estelle Robitaille, St-Jerome County of Terrebonne, Province of Quebec, Canada

CONSERVATION AWARD:

In granting you its Conservation Service Award, the United States Department of the Interior expresses its appreciation of your contributions to an area of public good that daily becomes more important. To this official tribute, I add my words of appreciation.

How many people have been inspired by the superb photographs and well-chosen articles and poems of your ARIZONA HIGHWAYS magazine, inspired to action to do their part toward preserving the precious beauty of nature? And how many others have acquired a deeper love of nature from having read your magazine? The awareness that countless numbers of people have been so inspired must be a great satisfaction to you. It is to me, for you have thus made more effective the efforts of the people of the National Park Service, especially, of course, here in the Southwest.

I congratulate you for having earned the Department's highest award. Few people have received this recognition.

Daniel B. Beard, Regional Director, National Park Service, Santa Fe, N.Μ.

The Conservation Service Award from the Department of the Interior is something all of us in ARIZONA HIGHWAYS deeply cherish. Without the unstinting and close cooperation of many, many people in the National Park Service throughout the years, we could never have even earned recognition for this award. Long live the wonderful people of the Park Service.

OPPOSITE PAGE "RED MOUNTAIN - SCENE OF ONCE ACTIVE VOLCANO" BY DARWIN VAN CAMPEN.

Red Mountain, in the San Francisco Volcanic Field of Arizona, is located off Highway 180, some thirty miles northwest of Flagstaff. The road in the photograph is one which branches to the right from the usual approach to Red Mountain. It leads directly to the wash leading into the central amphitheater of the mountain and offers striking views along the way. 4x5 Linhof camera; Ektachrome; f.32 at 1/25th sec.; 210 Symmar lens; Weston meter reading, 400; bright early July morning.

BACK COVER "STUDENT FIELD TRIP - NORTHERN ARIZONA UNIVERSITY" BY HERB AND DOROTHY MCLAUGHLIN.

Students attending Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff, find themselves in the center of a veritable paradise of scenery and natural wonders. Field trips and study outings to many of these scenic areas are featured in the curricula of the university. This scene is in a forested area not far from the university. Towering above is one of the San Francisco Peaks. Hasselblad 500 C camera; Ektachrome; f.11 at 1/250th sec.; 80 mm Ziess Planor lens; bright day in early November.