The Swift Trail

No feature stands out more formidably over Graham County than the lofty bulge of the Pinaleno Mountains and their highest peak, Mt. Graham. This ragged-topped mountain range bursts abruptly from the flat desert southwest of Safford and offers travelers taking a switchback mountain road a unique opportunity to see most of America's life transition zones in the span of a short 31-mile drive to the summit.

Although the Swift Trail is the main access into the Grahams, there are three other routes that jut into the fringes. The most important of these wends south from Thatcher for six miles to Frye Mesa Lake. This three-acre reservoir furnishes water to the town of Thatcher and is open to artificial lure fishing only. The lake is stocked with rainbow trout. The road climbing up to Frye Mesa is narrow and tortuous, but highly scenic.

I've collected a roster of pleasant memories from trips to this magnificent mountain. For example, who can forget the amazing transition from desert growth to the rarefied atmosphere on the alpine summit, the picking of raspberries from roadside bushes around Arcadia campground, hiking into remote Marijilda for trout, scooping handfuls of ladybugs and wondering why the rocky knob of Ladybug Peak is so attractive to this beneficial insect. And, of course, there is the contemplation of fishing and relaxing high on the mountain at Riggs Flat Lake. Like the Tetons in Wyoming, there is something captivating about the Grahams that leads you to gaze with awe at their primeval beauty, for few mountains have so successfully resisted the push of civilization.

The Grahams today look little different from that day one hundred and twelve years ago when Emory led his dusty column along the Gila and perhaps looked up at the mountains to feel the passions of a tourist in longing to explore the cool forests and taste the refreshing water from hidden springs. Once considered a foreboding area of religious significance by early Indians, its highest point is Mount Graham (10,717 feet), but two other spruce-covered crags also soar to over 10,000 feet elevation. These are Webb Peak (10,029) and Heliograph Peak (10,028).

The Pinalenos figured strongly in frontier Indian wars. Two forts lay at the base of the mountains, and Heliograph Peak was an important link in the mirror-reflecting signal system that helped defeat Geronimo and the Apaches.

BY ROBERT B. WHIT AKER

Local citizens liken the Grahams (as the Pinalenos are more popularly called) to a beautiful woman. Bold and striking in appearance, the pineand fir-clad peaks overwhelm parched desert travelers skirting the eastern fringe of the mountains on U.S. 666 or viewing the northern edge from U.S. 70. Yet her moods can be fickle, with high peaks changing quickly from sun-drenched serenity to a mood far less inviting, as storm clouds wrap around the summit to stir a mixed crescendo of thunder and lightning.

Pioneers found the mountains difficult to conquer. The high ridges break off fast, dropping some 7,100 feet from alpine elevations to the mesquite and sage of the Lower Sonoran life zone. There are no natural lakes and only a smattering of mountain brooks. These streams, however, are located in a picture-book setting featuring tiny waterfalls that drop into a series of emerald-green pools. Streams like Ash, Grant, Moonshine, Post and Marijilda are wilderness creeks that begin well above 9,000 feet and tumble refreshingly through the dense forest. Backpacking trout fishermen occasionally follow the streams down to the desert valley, but few have the desire to struggle up the steep face of the Pinalenos.

The shaggy mountains abound in game. Bear are plentiful and daylight breaking in the lush meadows finds mule and whitetail deer browsing for food. There are wild turkey, and beautiful Abert squirrels, with tassel ears and fluffy white tails, scurrying about nibbling on spruce buds. There possibly is more wild game in the Grahams today than during pioneer days. For example, the Abert squirrel (a near relative of the famed Kaibab bushytail) is not endemic to the mountains, but was transplanted here some twenty-six years ago. Turkey are a recent introduction by the white man.

Although much of the Pinalenos remains untamed wilderness, one spectacular roadway has been carved up the eastern side of the Grahams, affording visitors many breathtaking views and access to these sky-high mountain playgrounds. This 3 1-mile gravel road, which terminates at the abandoned Forest Service lookout on Clark Peak, is called the Swift Trail. It is named for Theodore Swift, Forest Service supervisor of the Pinaleno range back in the early 1930's, who relentlessly pushed for completion of the tortuous trail.

The Swift Trail starts out eleven miles south of Safford on U.S. 666, angling west past the Safford Prison Farm and across barren flatlands to the base of the mountains. The road is paved for the first few miles, but after entering the Coronado National Forest boundary it is reduced to well-surfaced gravel as it begins the switchbacking ascent to the summit.

Just before crossing the Forest Service boundary, a side road spears off the Swift Trail toward Marijilda Canyon recreation area. There are lots of sharp curves on the three-mile road, but the inviting picnic area is worth the trek.

Marijilda Creek is dry by the time it reaches the recreation area, but you can reach trout water by hiking upstream about three miles. The creek channel in the picnic grounds is flanked by oak, sycamore, mesquite, hackberry and catclaw. Marijilda Creek was named for an Apache woman who hid here with her brave to avoid capture by army troopers. However, their hiding place was soon discovered, and Marijilda's brave was shot, while she was carried off in captivity.

Back again on the Swift Trail, the next stop is at Noon Creek picnic area seven miles from U.S. 666. Noon Creek got its name back in the horse-and-buggy days, when travelers figured they could make it to this attractive spot for lunch if they left Safford at sunup. A side road to the left leads to a pleasant little apple orchard.

As you continue on up the mountain another mile, you'll come upon a sign that points out one of the most challenging and scenic backpacking trails in Arizona. Aptly named "Aroundthe-Mountain Trail," this footpath offers conditioned hikers beautiful vistas on a lonely route that ends up at Columbine ranger station, some twenty-two miles away and 4,100 feet higher in elevation.

Be sure to include a flyrod when you set off along the trail, because Marijilda Creek, at the three-mile mark, can furnish some great trout action. The trail is fairly well defined, although there are a few faint spots.

Frankly, it baffles me why this beautiful "Around-the-Mountain Trail" doesn't receive more acclaim from the backpacking crowd.

About two miles farther up the Swift Trail, conifers begin to replace such deciduous trees as oak and sycamore. At Wet Canyon picnic area, you can enjoy a refreshing sip of icy water as you say goodbye to the lowlands.

The first conifers encountered are Chiricahua pine, but gradually ponderosas increase in numbers and the forest grows increasingly dense. At 6,700 feet elevation, the Swift Trail passes Arcadia campground. This is the first of three major Forest Service recreation areas where overnight camping is permitted. A road to the left leads to an abandoned ranger station.

Arcadia campground easily handles three dozen camping units, with tables, fireplace grills and sanitary facilities. In the horse-and-buggy era, this was about as far as a wagon could go in one day from Safford. Enterprising hikers can take a footpath from Arcadia campground all the way up the mountain to Shannon Flat.

Each turn in the road above Arcadia presents a more breathtaking view of the desert below. Keep a sharp eye out for deer and other wildlife as you wheel around the sharp turns.

Next stop is Turkey Flat, at 7,500 feet, where the Swift Trail winds through the only major summer home settlement in the Grahams. Mrs. Rose Land used to operate a small store and restaurant here, but the building now has reverted into a private cabin. Her store was popular, and the only place where gasoline and supplies could be purchased on the mountain. Mrs. Land also presented visitors with a small ladybug pin if they could reveal the last geographic feature encountered in hiking to the top of Ladybug Peak.

Ladybug Saddle is four miles farther up the Swift Trail at 8,500 feet elevation. Here you see for the first time the western side of the mountain, in a stunning view of the Sulphur Springs Valley. A pulloff spot also is the start of the 150-yard trail to the craggy crest of Ladybug Peak.

The peak is one of the strangest phenomenons in Arizona. For some unknown reason, thousands upon thousands of ladybugs gather among the rocks here during certain seasons of the year. I've seen the largest number during early fall, when it's impossible to avoid stepping on the myriads of these tiny creatures. Ladybugs are favored friends of gardeners because they feed on aphids. Many people come to the Grahams solely to collect a few ladybugs for transplanting in their own yards.

It's hard to beat the view from atop Ladybug Peak. From here, you can see a magnificent vista stretching around 250 degrees of angle. There is Safford and the Gila River, the erosion-gutted San Simon drainage that the U. S. Bureau of Land Management now is attempting to restore. To the south are the Dragoon and Dos Cabezas Mountains, plus Apache Pass and the once treacherous route of the Butterfield stages. Swinging westerly, you look down on Fort Grant and with a little imagination can see cavalry units riding out in a cloud of dust, while straight west are the wild Galiuro Mountains.

Your breath comes shorter as you follow the Swift Trail along the ridge from Ladybug Saddle. Now you leave behind one of the Forest Service multiple uses as you cross a cattleguard into an area where cattle grazing is prohibited. A road slicing to the west drops into Snow Flat, where the Boy Scouts maintain a summer camp.

The road to Heliograph Peak is four and one-half miles from Ladybug Saddle and worth an exploratory side venture. Although the Heliograph road is sometimes rocky and corroded by mountain rains, it generally is easily negotiated in passenger cars. It's slightly over two miles to the lookout tower and the top of this historical 10,000-foot-high peak.

Heliograph is surrounded by mixed conifer trees, with a heavy predominance of Englemann spruce. The importance of Heliograph Peak to the army is evident as you climb the fire tower (open to visitors during the fire season when a ranger is on duty) for you can look out and see the Chiricahuas, Hua-chucas, Santa Ritas, Rincons, Santa Catalinas, and even the blunt-topped dome of Baboquivari Peak, 130 miles to the southwest. Off in the distant haze lie the wild Mexican foothills where Geronimo finally was captured. Most all the surrounding mountain ranges figured strongly during the bitter Apache wars. The mirror-reflecting signal tower on Heliograph Peak was built by General Miles during his 1886 campaign against Geronimo.

At the same turnoff to Heliograph Peak, another wellmarked road heads a short distance to Shannon campground at the headwaters of Marijilda Creek. This is a lovely camping spot, with lean-to shelters, picnic tables, and rest rooms. You can hike downstream and rapidly reach good trout fishing water. There are confirmed reports by Forest Ranger Rudy Hornelaz of two-pound rainbows lurking in the wilderness pools of Marijilda Creek.

A short distance farther up the Swift Trail you pass another side road to the right. This one is recommended for pickup trucks or four-wheel drive vehicles, and makes the final climb to the spruce-covered dome of Graham Peak highest point in the entire range. Eventually a road suitable for passenger cars will reach this roof of the Pinalenos.

Aspen become more prevalent as you follow the Swift Trail higher and higher. Another valuable forest product here is Douglas fir, but watch out for big lumber trucks as they roar up and down the mountain road.

If you listen closely during late fall, you'll likely hear the mournful baying of hunting hounds as they follow the scented trail of old Mr. Bruin. This also is a productive area for lion hunters. Perhaps the greatest kill by a single hunter occurred in 1935, when Clyde Miller, a government agent, killed 26 lions amid these same rocky crags.

My favorite campground on the Grahams is located at Hospital Flat. Here an open area is heavily carpeted with lush grasses, with a pleasant stream flowing between picnic tables.

Hospital Flat derives its name from the old hospital buildings that existed here before the turn of the century to serve troopers from Fort Grant who needed a respite from summer's heat in the valley below. The rotting remains of logs can still be found outlining the dimensions of the hospital.

The Swift Trail next crosses Grant and Moonshine Creeks both currently closed to fishing in order to propagate the rapidly vanishing Gila trout, the only member of the Salmo family proven to be a native to Arizona. Game and Fish Department biologists hope the fish do well enough in the streams, plus Ash Creek, to furnish stock for planting in other areas. If suffiAncient numbers reproduce, fishing eventually may be permitted in the three closed streams.

You continue to skirt the edge of the mountain, as the shaggy fringe of the Grahams break off in almost a sheer drop of several thousand feet.

At the 29-mile mark on the Swift Trail, the road passes yet another side road. This opens a well-surfaced side trip to Webb Peak, where a fire lookout tower is located. Like all Pinaleno fire towers, the Forest Service watchers welcome visitors in season. Webb Peak is the highest point in Arizona easily accessible to passenger cars. The view is unmatched.

Watch for deer as you pass Goudy Canyon and its sloping meadow. This is a favored spot for whitetail at the break of day. A mile farther on the road passes Soldier Creek campground, where you'll find another area with good facilities.

Seeing Abert squirrels hustling food into their treetop larders becomes more common as you drive through the forest, while at Chesley Flat visitors have an excellent opportunity to catch glimpses of wild turkeys feeding during morning and evening hours.

The road doesn't end at Riggs Flat Lake, but this sparkling eleven-acre lake, perched in a shallow indentation at 9,200 feet, nevertheless is the climax of the journey for most visitors to the Grahams. Built in 1957 by the Game and Fish Department, Riggs Flat provides excellent fishing for rainbow trout.

The Swift Trail ends at Clark Peak, 9,200 feet, where it turns around between an old corral, water tank, and ranger cabin. While researching this story, my son and I stayed overnight in the Clark Peak cabin reading a firewatcher's log by the light of a gasoline lantern. The log entries covered the year 1942, and reflected the problems of wartime shortages as well as shoddy roads and trails. At that time, the entire Pinaleno chain was part of Crook National Forest, which later was subdivided into Tonto, Coronado, and Chiricahua National Forests.

Ladybugs from the valleys migrate to higher altitudes for winter hibernation.

Naturally 8500 feet, Ladybug Peak is a favorite congregating area for masses of the colorful little beneficial beetles, noted for their voracious appetite for aphids. From mid-spring through early summer they will return to their usual breeding and feeding grounds.