BOOK REVIEW... PUEBLO ARCHITECTURE OF THE SOUTHWEST

AN OUTSTANDING BOOK ON PUEBLO ARCHITECTURE

The vast area surrounding Rainbow plateau abounds with prehistoric ruins. These range in size from single family caves to the breathtaking cliff dweller pueblo communities, such as Betatakin, Keet Seel, Inscription House, Kayenta, and several in the Canyon de Chelly. Most travellers see these ruins from a distance especially during the summer months when the high temperatures discourage the curiosity in our adventuresome soul, and we leave the area regretting that we didn't get a closer look when folks who have been there tell of the wonders we missed.The ruins of the prehistoric pueblos, and their successors, the modern pueblos, form a special cultural resource. The sites and the remarkable structures of our Southwestern pueblos are the subject of one of the finest books we have seen done in photographic essay format. Titled PUEBLO ARCHITECTURE OF THE SOUTHWEST, the book is mainly William Current's superb photographic interpretation of an outside-inside expo"They appear much less like fortresses than symbols of dominion or instruments of prayer, and they seem to stand at the very edge of a kind of human expression in architecture to which the Indian, with the almost immediate retraction of Pueblo character, never afterward aspired."

PUEBLO ARCHITECTURE OF THE SOUTHWEST

sure of the buildings as they exist in their environment. The viewer, aided by Vincent Scully's illuminating text, will see exemplified in these photographs the principles of Arizona and New Mexico Pueblo Indian architecture and its relation to the distinctive life style of the Pueblo people.

Among the many sites pictured are Mesa Verde in Colorado, Chaco Canyon and Aztec National Monument in New Mexico, and Canyon de Chelly, Kayenta, Navajo National Monument, and Canyon del Muerto in Arizona. William Current is a professional photographer residing in Pasadena, California. Vincent Scully is a professor of architecture at Yale.

PUEBLO ARCHITECTURE OF THE SOUTHWEST was published for the Amon Carter Museum of Western Art, Fort Worth, Texas, by UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS PRESS, Austin, Texas, and is available at most book dealers. Price is $12.50.

Not all of “the Navajo” is one of barren beauty. Most of the major canyons have permanent streams flowing through them with grass covered banks lined with cottonwood trees. With the availability of water and the piles of driftwood left by previous storms to use for firewood these streamside glens make fine campsites. For just these reasons, many of our camps are planned for and made at these streamside sites. But, whatever our reason for a choice of a campsite is, the individual attractiveness is invariable enhanced by its remoteness, inaccessibility and frequently of more importance, more intangible factors.

I was leading a trip not long ago north of Navajo Mountain in an area, which as usual, I had not been to before. The route I had planned for the day was to take us out of Lehi Canyon, across some very rough country, and down into Nasja Canyon where I knew we could find water and could camp for the night. Everything was going well. We had found a way out of Lehi Canyon and had crossed most of the way to Nasja by lunch time. We were even doing so well that while eating lunch I entertained the idea that we might get into camp too early. After lunch it was only a short distance to the rim of Nasja Canyon where we could look down into an ideal campsite. Unfortunately, we happened to be separated from it by a verticle cliff nearly a thousand feet high. I had little concern at the time for there was still several hours of daylight and past experience had taught me that given enough time it was always possible to figure out a way through any obstacle the country could come up with. Several hours later I was concerned. I had been able to find a way off the cliff and had finally come to the conclusion that we would have to go back to a side canyon that we had crossed before lunch and which I hoped might lead to the bottom of Nasja Canyon. There was no water where we were, so it was important that we find a way to the bottom of Nasja Canyon where we would find water and thereby be able to make a decent camp for the night. With this in mind we started retracing our steps and arrived at the narrow canyon leading to Nasja just before sunset. As we started down I never felt so committed. We had nearly a thousand feet to drop in less than a mile. I knew there was an excellent chance of coming to a cliff that would block our progress. It was getting dark, the narrow canyon we were in offered no place to camp and we could not expect to find water until we reached the bottom of Nasja Canyon. Even though we were partly prepared to spend a night hung up in this boulder filled gully without water I was never more thankful to see that my fears were not realized and were able to descend the gully straight to its junction with Nasja, where we arrived just at dark. When we did reach the canyon bottom we were at a place in Nasja where there was a large level sandy bank covered with several large cottonwood trees. Piles of driftwood deposited at the base of these trees made the gathering of firewood an easy chore. The canyon bottom was about two hundred feet wide and we were closed in by verticle cliffs several hundred feet high. In every way it was a beautiful camp and with the previous apprehensions of the day forgotten a fire was quickly made and our evening meal started. After supper as we sat around the campfire the true magnificence of the surroundings came into view. My previous feeling of confidence had returned and I even smiled at my accomplishment. However, as the campfire died down and the moon came up and began playing on the cliffs my smile changed. Not outwardly but inwardly, from one of accomplishment to one of gratitude.

Forbidden Canyon Narrows

"I'm reasonably sure none of our species will ever get down into Forbidden Canyon or, having got down there will ever get out again. So you see it's appropriately named... Birds fly above it but it is reasonably certain no living creature, anyway no two footed or four footed creature exists in it." Irvin S. Cobb, 1940. ... add that conclusion to the 4 minute mile, and the 100 yards in ten and it just about seems like they don't make 'em like they used to any more.

Beautiful West Canyon

Lake Powell at the Confluence of Forbidden Canyon and Bridge Canyon HELGA TEIWES. In order to continue our nine-day backpack around the north side of Navajo Mountain to Rainbow Bridge, and then through Forbidden Canyon, south to Rainbow Lodge, the National Park Service supplied a barge for transport from Rainbow Bridge Canyon to Forbidden Canyon. We all made it without wetting a toe, until the first crossing on foot of Aztec Creek in Forbidden Canyon. Here a little quicksand provided some necessary but unwanted baths.

As beautiful and spectacular as the canyon bottoms are, some of the most interesting areas are in what we call the dome country. This is the wild and weird plateaus of sandstone domes between the canyons. These domes can be too steep to climb and are frequently separated by slots too narrow to slide through. I remember not long ago when we were walking up the bottom of one of the many tributaries of Navajo Canyon. The bottom of the canyon we were in was extremely narrow and filled with water. It was late in the day and we were looking for a campsite when we came to an impassable pool. We had already used ropes to get around two pools so going back was out of the question. There was no place to camp where we were so the only place left to go was up. A side gully led up into the domecountry so we took it. We arrived on top just as the sun was setting and discovered as fine a campsite as a backpacker could ever ask for. Below us was a small horseshoe shaped basin. It was filled with juniper trees interspersed with several flat sandy areas. Leading into this basin was a small drainage flowing over the bare sandstone rocks and containing several large pools of water. The outlet of the basin faced to the west and as far as the eye could see were domes, spires, and cliffs, amazingly wild it was a scene of magnificent grandeur made ever more spectacular by the shadows of the setting sun.

This then is at least one part of "the Navajo." Unsurpassed in its beauty, a challenge to those who enter it but never failing to reward those who do.

KEET SEEL

Once the Old Ones scaled her lofty wall And ground their corn on stones in her coolness. Men hunted in the wilderness that kept her, And women fried their cakes on heated rocks. The eagle, long since gone, killed just to eat, And little children learned to understand. Then, Man or Time or Season something changed. And they lived there in the morning, And when night came, they were gone.

NAVAJO LAND

Soft purple shadows Sift over the mesas, Half awake stars Blink their eyes In the sky Darkness drifts over The land of "The People" A drowsy night wind Chants its own Yeibechai.

A DESERT

The small population of seedlings are contented to watch as the crabgrass kings and their wildflower queens defend their kingdoms against a dictatorship of sand. and a quarrel between two shriveled cacti, over a recently formed puddle, goes on without further progress. the ants continue to dig underground tunnels, plotting an overthrow of the desert from beneath the ground, a technique not yet tested while a large spider, busy making patterns in the sand happens upon the center of the delicate network and collapses it, despite hurried attempts to escape a painted lizard appears elbows tense, hands gripped hard against the earth, and stares off to the empty horizon as if something were about to happen. not far away, a magnificent plant once alive with lavender blooms, now stands gaunt and lifeless. waiting to vanish into the dust

SUNSHINE

The sun's rays dispelled the clouds flooding the earth with its radiance Nature smiled. The grass, seemingly dormant took on an exhilerated look of grandure; the air freshened Life burst anew. Man, God's dominant creature seemed mesmerized by its glory; graciously renewed in spirit Sang.

Yours Sincerely

April 27, 1971 Mr. Raymond Carlson, Editor Arizona Highways 2039 W. Lewis Phoenix, Arizona 85009

Dear Mr. Carlson:

A unique and significant event will occur in New Mexico this year--the 50th anniversary of the founding of the Inter-Tribal Indian Ceremonial at Gallup.

It is unique in that, having been founded by non-Indians out of their admiration for Indian peoples, it is the only such event in the world purposely organized by one race of people to honor another race of people.

It is unique in that it has been maintained only through the cooperative efforts and mutual trust of Indians and non-Indians working together for a common interest and further strengthened in recent years by the advent of many capable Indian people into its committees and board.

It is significant in that it has created and maintained through its dedication to its principles the nation's largest, best-known and most respected exposition of the traditional Indian--the nearest this country comes to having a national tribute to the American Indian and a proud example of this country's race relations at their best.

It is significant in that through 50 years from its founding in what was then an isolated frontier town, it has continued to find the dedicated leadership of three generations of local citizens in a small city willing to make the sacrifices necessary to preserve and promote it.

The major informational media in the United States has been most generous in publicizing the Ceremonial in the past for which New Mexico is appreciative, but I feel you may be interested in giving it extra attention this year because of its anniversary. I will look forward to your comments.

Most sincerely, We sincerely regret that prior commitments pre-empted coverage of the Inter-Tribal Indian Ceremonial at Gallup, which this year will welcome more than 30,000 visitors from all over the world August 12, 13, 14 and 15.

We join with New Mexico's Governor Bruce King, and the people of our neighbor state in extending an invitation to our readers to attend the nation's oldest and largest popular exposition of the diverse culture of many North American Indian tribes.

OPPOSITE PAGE

"SHEEP IN NAVAJO CANYON" BY HELGA TEIWES. This is the longest of all the beautiful canyons of the Rainbow Plateau. Navajo Canyon with its creek running all year is the most accessible for the Navajos and therefore more extensively used for their sheep and for their needs. Hogans are found in the area, some still used. Herds of sheep such as this are proof that Navajos depend on this harsh but beautiful land for their way of life. Rolleiflex camera, Tessar 75mm. lens; Agfachrome 50 ASA, exposed 125th sec. at f16.

BACK COVER

"NAVAJO MOUNTAIN" BY HELGA TEIWES. The east end of the Rainbow Plateau is dominated by this Patriarch of the Navajo country, Navajo Mountain. The heavily eroded sandstone domes to the southwest hide deep canyons like West Canyon and Forbidden Canyon. It is the awe inspiring beauty of this country that draws some people to it and challenges them every step of the way in and out of it. Constant ups and downs demand physical fitness, and expertise about the terrain, and rewards with the spirit of the delightful freedom that only pure wilderness can give. Rolleiflex camera, Tessar 75mm lens; Agfachrome 50 ASA, exposed 125th sec. at f16.