Quintana Roo

Territorial Mexico on the Yucatan Peninsula, this land of the Mayan is naturally endowed with the allure of the European Rivieras and the exotic south sea "island paradises."

Quintana Roo, a name not known to many yet, is destined to become the place-to-visit in México not too much time from now.

Until recently this easternmost green end of México, located between Belize (British Honduras) on the south and Yucatán on the northwest, was blank space on the map, a vague Caribbeanfacing wedge of rain forest, lagoons and forgotten temples way out back of the green beyond where only the hardy ventured and where many of those who did were likely to disappear under mysterious circumstances.

Or so the legends say.

And, naturally, we had to go there, out to the green boonies, to see what the mystery and the fuss was all about. We found the end of the rainbow.

Quintana Roo is one of México's two remaining territories the other one is the southern half of Baja California. And this land so long forgotten is coming into sharp focus now as our southern neighbor's plans take hold for building of huge tourist centers, mainly in the north. Tomorrow-time, the sound of jets will hum over steaming jungle land and lost stone cities; an international airport's abuilding at Cancún; hotel row and golf course, convention centers, will front lagoons and coral reefs where now the shark, the barracuda and solitary scuba buffs hold sway.

But that's tomorrow, with 1974 the hopeful target date for completion today's the time to go right now to see the jungle, sea and reefs in a land that's rich in time and legend.

Diversity? At Punta Cancún, the northern end, there's snowy beach and, out on the near horizon, Isla Mujeres, the Isle of Women. There's water so clear you can see sandgrains on the bottom at more than 15 fathoms; lobster, shrimp and conch abound... and some of the best fishing, skinand scuba-diving anywhere in the wide green world.

There's Cozumel the Isle of Swallows sacred place where Spaniards made first landfall in 1517 and now a boom resort a short flight from Miami.

And Akumal, just to the west on the mainland, nestled on a curving magic palm-lined beach, where a man of high far vision has built what promises to be the magnet-spot of the Caribbean.

There's Tulum, wild haunted place of Maya ruins that stand on cliffs above the booming sea. And then south, over potholed roads and through rain-forest lands seldom seen by tourist eyes, where Chetumal, road's end capital of the territory, is flexing all her lovely muscles, getting ready for the surge of people sure to come.

Let's start up north and take the road that winds on down from Puerto Juárez, jump-off place for Isla Mujeres, see some of the sights and places now little known that one day, not too far off, will become household words and count ourselves among the lucky that we can see it now.

There's roadway here where nothing but dirt track stretched a scant three years ago. And if you take two steps off that road, you find yourself thrown back in time a thousand years and more. Chiclero trails wind through dark rain forest where sacbé, the white roads of the Maya, crisscross the land, all leading to cities and ruins unmapped and long forgotten.

A sacbé runs the length of Quintana Roo along the coast from north cape to who-knows-where down south, with ruins of cities every seven miles, brooding and vine-hung above the crystal sea. Was a time this coastline must have looked like one continuous bustling white-stone and fresco'd city every bay and inlet, cove, every point of land has its temple on it, and rest stations were provided along the way for the wandering Maya merchants who covered this land by foot and beat their way down the coastline in canoes that carried up to 40 men, carrying trade as far away as Panama, and possibly beyond.

All gone now but hints remain, enough to whet the appetite and make you want to go back again, roam that jungle and that coastline and, breath-less, visit Yesterday.

There's still not much known about Quintana Roo. The southern road that cuts across the waist of the peninsula on its way to Chetumal was opened only in 1969. The northern road from Mérida was for long the only landward access to the territory, and the paved stretch that leads south from Puerto Juárez is still a recent thing. (The pave-ment stops the other side of Playa del Carmen, ferry terminus for Cozumel, and it's curse and pothole the rest of the southern way to Carillo Puerto but there's enough of surprise-sights and winding off-trails to make you forget the road and keep you busy for long weeks of happy wandering.) Akumal comes as wide-eyed and pleasant surprise along this lonely stretch (in fact, it's the only stopping place the whole long way until you get to Carillo Puerto). And Akumal is there because of the vision of one highand far-seeing man who's caused an end-ofrainbow place to be built in what was virgin jungle a short three years ago.

Akumal the Place of the Turtle where Pablo Bush Romero, explorer, author, world traveler pioneer set foot, saw Tomorrow and built a magic place where dreams come true and time takes on another meaning.

The end of the rainbow is no mythical place; it is alive and well at Akumal.

Bungalows stretch along a coral strand at Akumal, facing the booming sea. There's dining hall with a palapa roof, a high thatched cone that runs 85 feet across the bottom, with gourmet meals in what, remember, was jungle only yesterday. There's museum here, fruit of CEDAM divers who searched the shipwreck of the Matanceros, a ship that left Spain way back in 1741 with 270 tons of cargo. She sank the following year off Akumal, where she lay broken on the sunken reef until the divers of CEDAM came along. Their salvage is now part of México's national treasure, and some of it may be seen at Akumal. (There's even an underwater museum here, where you can go a-snorkeling, look down through crystal water to see old cannons on the bottom, re-membrances of the Matanceros and the days of the Spanish Main.) CEDAM? You've surely heard of CEDAM. They dove the cenote, the Sacred Well of Chichén Itzá, not too long back and brought up Maya trea-sure trove. They explore the sea and bring back Yesterday, as part of Méx-ico's far-seeing National Institute of Anthropology and History, devoted to preserving the patrimonio nacional, the national heritage that makes our closest neighbor to the south the richest reposi-tory of history this side of Egypt or Greece.

Pablo Bush is CEDAM's driving force and, without exaggeration, if it hadn't been for don Pablo and the good people of CEDAM, much of the Maya treasure world would still be unknown today. And, instead of fabled-temple stopping place, Akumal would have been the deserted copra plantation it was when don Pablo first set eyes on it.

Akumal is not a 'resort' far from it. It's a way of life, literally, with something for everybody. Deepsea fishing your 'thing'? there's fishing here to beat the wildest dream (in two hours we landed everything from dorado to barra-cuda, grouper to tuna name it: it's there, waiting for the bait); scuba down to the offshore reefs and pick up lobster for your dinner; walk the curving white-sand beaches and pick up everything from white coral in a million shapes to glass globes, souvenir of fisher-nets far out over the horizon. Walk jungle trails and stumble on ruins: Xcarét, Polé Dináh, not on any map Xel-ha, lagoon where there's a temple hidden in a cave that you reach by swimming through a sunken passage, where sun-light streams through holes in the mother rock above to spotlight the shrine that stands in silence there. (Xel-ha is now a national preserve, donated to the nation by Pablo Bush.) Inaccessible except by sea up till three years ago, today you can drive up to Akumal's main gate and find whatever you've been dreaming of beyond. A copra plantation used to be here, where two families lived lonely...today, there's over a million dollars been invested, and this once deserted strip of coastline is finding new and humming life. But be warned: if you go to Akumal intending to spend a week, you'll look up in surprise to find the happy days flown by... it could become a way of life. A City will grow here one day you're in at the beginning but it will be a city planned by men who love the land and sea and have a vision of it as it is and as it shall be and so Akumal will always be a beauty spot along this stretch of sea.

Go south a bit from Akumal and find Tancáh, if you can. Wade through a shoulder-high wild-growing mint field and find the faded jungle trail that leads to a magic cave. Stand in the water there and look against the light to see bas reliefs carved in some forgotten yesterday, backlit by a vinehung opening that looks like one of old Catherwood's engravings come to life. And there's a stela here, a carved stone slab, in the cave of Tancáh, where fresh copal incense is to be found. the old gods are never far away in this timeless land of green.

A little to the south, Tulum, place of the Diving God, sits on cliffs near one of the most perfect coves on the planet, stands sentinel over this stretch of coral coast.

Inland from Tulum a brand new highway stretches for 20 miles or so, dwindling to a red-dirt track that winds up at Cobá, Maya city that one day will rival the vaunted Chichén Itzá for visitor appeal. Climb a tangle of vine and jumbled rock and find yourself on pyramid top, two large lakes stretching as surprise on either side. Roam winding trails to find more stelae, large stone slabs set up on end, with haunting bas reliefs that stand on small rises in the middle of the jungle, witness to other times and people.

Southward the road stretches to Carillo Puerto, once known as Chan Santa Cruz, last stronghold of the indios sublevados, the Maya who let no man wander hereuntil 1937. Carillo Puerto is now a friendly place, the only 'big settlement' along the way south to Chetumal.

Going south, you'll pass Chacchoben, where on top of a tree-covered pyramid you find an altar where candlewax drips thick, testimony again that old gods live in this green land.

In fact, there are still three sacred cities Chunpón, Tihosuco, Tepich hidden in the jungle fastness, where no stranger is allowed to enter to this day. And legend still is strong here - Xtabay, beautiful woman turned into a ceiba tree, who lures men on and their bodies are found next morning, ripped and torn.

And there are legends that could fill a book and will, one day, when we go back to track them down.

Southward once again, you pass the Lagoon of Bacalar, one-time Maya center where they built the big seagoing canoes the Spaniards saw when they first hit this coast. Bacalar is called the Lagoon of Seven Colors: the water's banded from palest blue to deepest turquoise, as far as you can see and tales are told of Spanish helmets, swords, found beneath the surface of these banded crystal waters.

The people here at land's end are like frontier people anywhere: you can walk the street at any time of day or night in Chetumal and meet with friendly folk. Your car can be left curbside for days on end and sit untouched and safe.

They run the gamut, these Chetumal people, from black to café au lait to pink. Buccaneers left genes here, as did slaves, conquistadores, jungle men and Indians, and a walk down the streets of Chetumal is a walk through history at this land's-end once the home of pirates and now a bright and booming town at the very tip of México.

Chetumal's a friendly free port now, where merchandise from all the world is found. They're building divided streets, with palm trees planted down the mid-dle, getting ready for the tidal wave of visitors that's bound to come once this back-of-beyond stretch of paradise is 'discovered.'

Mayan Ruins - Palenque Any single issue is worth the price of the whole year's subscription!

Start your gift subscriptions with the fifty-two page full color Christmas issue which will be mailed in a specially designed envelope.

THE MOST GIFTED OF ALL!

Each gift subscription will be announced on an attractive, colorful Christmas card with your name hand signed in any manner that you wish.

$5.00 U.S.A. & POSS. $6.00 ELSEWHERE One Year Subscriptions Accepted Only Mail to: Arizona Highways, 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, Arizona 85009

From the State of Michoacan. Antique columns of native wood carved by skilled Tarascan Indian art-craftsmen. Adorned with moon and sun symbols they were originally used to support overhanging balcony structure surrounding inner garden patio of one of Michoacan's most elegant haciendas.ginia, a complete sala (large room) will be integrated from various places, complete to old ceiling beams, center arch, crystal chandeliers, etc. An entire old colonial hacienda was dismantled, repaired and refurbished with new hand wrought hardware, copied from the old, and shipped to a client in Saudi Arabia, for an oil company executive homesick for Mexico. There are no limitations to the quantitative or quali-tative talents of the Dos Cabezas staff. Whether it is to fill an order for a single ash tray, or to furnish a mansion floor-to-ceiling or wall-to-wall... the challenge is ever the same. The result must be perfection.

One of the most unusual aspects of Dos Cabezas' uniqueness is the fact that its status is not known to many Arizonans. There is no way to measure what Dos Cabezas has contributed to vitalize and enhance the prestigious image of Scottsdale. For Mexico and for Dos Cabezas simpatico human relations, in spite of complicated import-export laws, have produced an abundant harvest of economic benefits for both. Beyond the dollar-peso exchange is the appreciation for the talents and art of a great nation. It is true that old art forms belong to hearts, souls and hands of the old artists. And it is sad that the old hands are fewer as the years go by. The grand lady of the House of Dos Cabezas regards the old art forms with deep reverence, not only for their substance but for what they represent, related to the time and life of their makers. Nevertheless, she is not so lost with the old that she cannot sense the fire in the spark of a young artist. We were entranced, enchanted and deeply grateful when Mrs. De Mille introduced us to Manuel Lepe, one of Mexico's beautiful young artists. Lepe, as he is known to his friends, paints in a style of primitive joy. Lepe's world is a world of happy children.

Most Americans know of Puerto Vallarta because of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. We know Puerto Vallarta as the place in Mexico "of happy children next to heaven." The Mexican Government uses posters with Lepe's happy children. Twenty-four Lepe paintings hang in the Richard Burtons' home.

In our world of knowing, working with, and living among those we consider to be the world's finest contemporary artists, we are especially pleased to know Manuel Lepe and to introduce his work to ARIZONA HIGHWAYS readers. We state this with pride because we know that after exposure of several examples of his works in color, scheduled for reproduction in our December magazine, Lepe will be one of the most wanted artists of this generation. In Scottsdale, Manuel Lepe is represented exclusively by Dos Cabezas.

For the visitor to Scottsdale who cannot get to Mexico, a stroll through the spacious Dos Cabezas salon and galleries is an adventure in itself. All you need for your passport into this most romantic over-the-threshold excursion is a smile of appreciation for the beauty of the hearts and hands of Mexico. The visitor must know that he is in a very special world because, in all Mexico there is not one place where there is so much of the best from all the markets of the land. In its most real explanation, that is what Dos Cabezas is all about. Mexico's most beautiful mansion in Scottsdale, Arizona. We've waited one year for this special Mexico edition to present this profile as a tribute to Dos Cabezas and to the hundreds of talented, dedicated and wonderful people of Mexico who make Dos Cabezas, an Arizona Institution, an international landmark.

The artifacts shown at right are originals, authentically classified as “Chipicuaro Pre-Classics,” (300 to 1100 в.с.). The Chipicuaro Indian civilization flourished during the ancient period 2000 to 3000 years ago in what is now the area of the states of Guanajuato and Michoacan. They were used as “fertility fetishes” and were planted with the crops as a token of respect for their gods. Mexican campesinos unearth these ancient objects from farms and dried up lake beds.

Below A corner of one of the salon display rooms. The concert grand Kimball piano, painted antique ivory is decorated by Salvador Corona, renowned as the maestro of Mexico's romantic primitive artists. The scene depicts a night at a great ball from invitation to the “after-the-ball” ceremonies, from the days of the Maximilian courts.

Mexican artists and artisans have created a unique style with the com-monplace sphere of culture. For them Mexico is color in dynamic, infinite and creative arts and handicrafts.

The craftsmen, almost always simple people of the earth have evolved to a lesser extent than the artist painter and sculptor. In their workshops they use primitive tools and are dedicated to work only by hand. No two pieces are alike. Each object is an original piece of art.

At Dos Cabezas the collections bring together the best from all cultural levels in a distinguished exposition of the esthetic spirit that animates the Mexican people.

Plain textile fabrics are exquisitely embellished with woven designs, hand embroidery and complicated stitchings attesting to the great artistic creativeness of the weavers.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY NEIL KOPPES Farole lamps, Processional lanterns, Vase shaped lamps, chandeliers-original antiques and some restored reproductions. Custom made, one-of-a-kind contemporary lamps each an original Dos Cabezas design, executed with native Mexican articles.

LOVE SONG

The day when you were born Were born all the flowers. The day when you were born The nightingales sang.

Now the dawn is coming, Now the light of day has seen us Awake, my friend, (my beloved) Look, it has dawned.

I wish I were a sunbeam To be able to enter your window And say good morning to you Lying in your bed.

Of the stars from the heavens I should like to take down twoOne with which to greet you And another to say good-bye.

The Tarahumaras live in pine woods country. They are expert wood carvers and make violins and guitars which are sold in the area. Though they are unfinished and untreated the tone is adequate for the range of the fiddler's talents.

GREAT SCOTS!!! FORGIVE ΜΕ!!!

Paul Dean was the first to write. He had received his advance contributor's copy of our September magazine. Paul wrote: Dear Joe: Oh, dear, dear Joe. ". . . to see oursels as others see us" is a quote from Robbie Burns, not Lord Byron. May your mail sacks sag heavy. May you choke on your next haggis. And I pray you may live out your days without being smitten by the claymore of an angry Scot.

We countered with If you find a mistake in this publication, consider it was put there for a purpose. We try to publish something for everybody and some people are always looking for mistakes.

From "DRUMBEATS," published quarterly by the membership of the North American Indian Cultural group at the U.S. Penitentiary, Leavenworth, Kansas.

From Paul, two days later

Dear Joe:

Magnificent reply. It will be saved as a stock answer to all those who write to rib me about flubs.

God must have loved Scotsmen he made so many of them, and they have all written to tell me "about it," including a Scot who signs herself Margaret Turano, from Napa, California wrote to tell us she loves the magazine . . . however, at the top of page 12 . . . and furthermore . . ."If you use one word of the Scottish dialect (oursels?) you should use all of them!" (Did you know that, Paul Dean?)

So . . . The stanza follows:

"O wad some Pow'r the giftie gie us To see oursels as ithers see us! It wad frae monie a follie free us And foolish notion."

O.K. Back in the serious world again. We received more than one hundred letters calling our attention to the error and each was a joy to read and a jewel in gracious critique, and we're glad to have made the mistake otherwise we would never have known what beautiful people the Scots of all nations are.

Cielito Lindo (Lovely Little Heaven)

Only on Sundays I see your face, when you go to mass in the morning.

Ay, ay, ay ay! I wish every day of the week, Cielito Lindo, were Sunday.

De domingo en domingo te veo la cara, cuando vas a misa, por la mañana.

Ay, ay, ay, ay! yo quisiera que toda la semana, Cielito Lindo, domingo fuera.