CASTLE HOT SPRINGS

A flower splendored oasis nestled in the depths of a primitive desert wilderness.

The grand dowager of Arizona's resorts opened her 77th season this winter nestled in the friendly sun against the Bradshaw Mountains. This is Castle Hot Springs Resort Hotel, the state's first winter spa presiding in her elegant Victorian simplicity over a canyon oasis that has changed little since the turn of the century when the nation's first families began to flock to the West to partake of her remarkable waters.

It remains an island of lush green, placid in its surroundings of ranches and gold mine properties, a spot where one can "listen to the quiet." The only sound to break the stillness is the endless soft murmur of hot, clear spring water gushing down the mountainside flumes pool to pool, the lifeblood of the resort, or an occasional call of quail. These waters have drawn thousands through the years to be refreshed first the Apaches who guarded the site carefully as their "Magic Waters" then the white men.

Arizona's Pioneer Resort Spa Remains Remote and Unspoiled After Seventy-Seven Years. Castle Hot Springs

There came a day in 1865 when Col. Charles Craig, commander of troops at Prescott's Fort Whipple, pursued a band of marauding Indians who had raided Wickenburg and nearby mining camps.

Pursuit ended in furious battle in the Bradshaws where smoke had been detected drifting skyward, and the Apaches were defeated. The next morning from the crest of what is known now as Salvation Peak, Colonel Craig and his men marvelled at the serene beauty of the surrounding peaks resembling castles in the soft light of dawn. They named it Castle Hot Springs.

Descending to the Valley, an advance guide returned with word that they indeed had located the "Magic Waters" of the Apaches. Hot mineral water gushed from the rocks in a side gulch from a mysterious source deep in the earth, tumbled down the mountainside into pools it had carved into solid rock through the centuries. Word of these "miraculous waters" soon spread. Flowing at 400,000 gallons daily, a settlement soon grew around the springs where sick people came for relief.

In the early 1880's, Lloyd Croscon of Philadelphia and Fred Morris and wealthy miner Frank Murphy purchased the existing settlement and springs.

In 1894, construction began on the Palm House. Indians lived on the property and were hired for 50 cents a day to work on the roads and buildings. The first hotel-type spa opened two years later.

A turn-of-the-century brochure lists a long line of "cures" provided by the springs. They include rheumatism, blood disorders, insomnia, convalescence, kidney disease, anemia, asthma and hay fever. The pamphlet also stated positively that "no case of TB or any other infectious disease will be received."

In 1898, the administration building opened, which is still used for offices. About this same time, the colorful depot known as Castle Hot Springs Station (marked on old time tables as Morristown) was erected.

The famous old structure met its demise in 1972 at the age of 75 years. Beloved by generations who used to come by train, then be met with horse and surrey later cars it was of Southwest mission style with red tiled roof, stuccoed walls.

In the era of the private railroad car, Santa Fe Railroad officials would boast that as many as seven private pullman cars would be switched off by wealthy vacationers. Then the cars would be pulled into the Phoenix station to wait until their owners were ready to depart for home.

Rates at the hotel in the earliest days were $3.50 a day American Plan (with meals) and $90 and upward per month.

For travelers, the brochure further advised that express could be forwarded by Wells Fargo and that the hotel had electric lighting, ice and cold storage on its premises.

The pamphlet's boast that the hotel's "environment is good for tired nerves and weary brains" is still valid. The same quantity 400,000 gallons of hot mineral water still gushes forth from the springs and supplies hot water for the hotel, as well as for therapeutic pools. Through the years, America's finest families traveled for days in their private rail cars to Morristown. From there, it was a five-hour stagecoach trip with three changes of horses. Later, Shade Hardee, the mailman, made the 1914 run from the junction by six horse thoroughbrace in 31½ hours.

Frank Murphy became sole owner of the hotel. His brother, Oakes, was Arizona's territorial governor who spent his winters at the hotel, turning the administration building into Arizona's winter capitol. It is still used for offices.

About 1905, Washington fan palms were brought into the canyon from California. Today they soar into brilliant blue skies towering over paths and around the main buildings, sentinels that guard the placid grounds.

When Murphy died, the property went to a Prescott attorney, T. G. Norris, commissioned to settle the estate, who in turn leased the hotel to the Van Noy interests in California. In 1923, Van Noy sent a well-known California hotel manager to inspect the property. He was Walter Rounsevel, now 91, whose name became synonymous with Castle Hot Springs. He never returned to La Jolla, but managed the property until recent years. It is now owned by Mrs. Franz Talley of Paradise Valley.

Among the guests in the earliest days was Mrs. Joseph N. Pew of Philadelphia who celebrated her 60th consecutive season at the hotel in 1968. She recalled coming to the hotel as a small girl with her parents when Apaches roamed the countryside. They taught her to use a bow and arrow and danced at night for hotel guests.

One of the early cottages was built in 1906-07 by a cousin of Franklin Roosevelt named Roosevelt Roosevelt. At that time, the resort was scarcely a decade into its life. Through the years, "to help out" this infant spa, guests built their own cottages, stayed rent free for some years then deeded them to the hotel.

Wood for the cottages was hauled over the Bradshaws by way of Crown King and down to the desert. The roofs were made in Phoenix of thin copper molded to resemble shingles. Turned black by the weather, they have never leaked or never failed to appear as seasoned wood.

To this day, there are no kitchens in the cottages. The hotel staff which equals the guests in numbers prepares all meals served in the windowed dining room of the Palm House. The bulk of furnishings date from turn of the century heavy oak unscarred after years of use, set off by the warmth of colorful Navajo rugs underfoot. Stone fireplaces add charm and coziness to cottages heated by electricity.

Among the famed guests who came to love Castle Hot Springs was New York Copper magnate Thomas Fortune Ryan who suffered from chronic asthma. Attracted to the hotel by dry climate and springs, he purchased it anonymously in the

early '20's. He had to sleep sitting upright in a chair in order to breath, but after coming to the resort could sleep lying down in bed. He was never to enjoy the luxury of his Arizona "ranch," for en route back to New York City, he died of a ruptured gall bladder. From that time on, Rounsevel was in full charge of operation of the hotel. Eminents who came West to the springs also included President Teddy Roosevelt, such families as the Cabots, the Rockefellers, the Chapmans, the Vanderbilts, the Vincent Astors, the H. V. Kaltenborns, James Bell, the Fords, the McCormicks, the Walter Groppius.

spot for his son to recuperate from his war wounds. The late John F. Kennedy remained at the hotel for nearly three months - hiking, riding horseback, making friends with staff and guests alike, they recall. In those days, Dr. Christian Pederson was resident physician at the hotel. Like many of its guests, he returned for more than 30 years after his first stay in 1935. Still hiking at age 75, he was an avid amateur botanist and wrote poems about the desert.

During World War II, the resort closed due to the shortage of fuel and food. In 1945-46, the United States Air Force leased the hotel for a rehabilitation center for pilots who had flown the hazardous Burma Hump. A reminder of those days flies daily from atop Salvation Peak, the castellated mountain that rises 1,000 feet just a short distance away from the hotel. The late Sen. Carl Hayden arranged for special dispensation, so that the American flag could fly 24 hours due to the rugged climb. In a colorful ceremony each winter when the season opens, there is a pole climb when guests and wranglers alike race up the mountain to raise the flag for the season. This year, John Hammock, Oregon wrangler, broke the record with a 28-minute climb and won a pot of gold. After the war ended, a young navy lieutenant was among its guests. His father felt that the springs would be an ideal spot for his son to recuperate from his war wounds. The late John F. Kennedy remained at the hotel for nearly three months - hiking, riding horseback, making friends with staff and guests alike, they recall. In those days, Dr. Christian Pederson was resident physician at the hotel. Like many of its guests, he returned for more than 30 years after his first stay in 1935. Still hiking at age 75, he was an avid amateur botanist and wrote poems about the desert.

Years ago, cowboys in winter season staged what were known as "jackpot rodeos," roping and tying not only steers, but goats that roamed the area. These were held on Sundays during season. Another tradition was the old-fashioned Christmas celebration at the little town of Castle Hot Springs in the schoolhouse, when residents brought homemade cakes, candles, cookies and presents for the celebration. Santa traditionally arrived at the schoolhouse by burro not reindeer. In the canyon oasis, the buildings still sit in dignified splendor. Freshly painted in yellow, they sparkle in the friendly sunshine that warms the stone walls of Palm House which contains guest lounge, dining room, barber and beauty shops as well as guest rooms. The 2,200 acres of grounds includes a lush green executive nine-hole golf course, swimming pool, tennis courts and colorful poolside terraces used for luncheon in the sun. The canyon inspires a leisurely life with guests free to follow whims on horseback with mounts from the picturesque stables, to golf, swim or hike rugged mountain paths. For birdlovers, it is the delight of seeing cardinals, canyon wrens, orioles, whitewing, flycatchers, marsh hawks. Those who follow the well-worn path uphill to the springs to indulge in relaxing massages or soak up the beneficial warmth of pools that range from 125 degrees to 105 degrees, walk in the same path used by the Apaches and early guests. Lining the way are soaring clusters of bamboo, cottonwoods, eucalyptus and palms feet firmly planted in soil warmed by the spring water as it flows downhill, lifeblood of the resort, its sole source of water.

Today, what was once known as "Arizona's Burma Road," from Morristown to the hotel (they used to suggest 25 miles an hour as the absolute top speed) winds through rolling desert country, cactus-studded and known as one of the most scenic areas in Arizona. Coming up from Phoenix over the Black Canyon Highway and the Lake Pleasant cutoff, it is a pleasant winding drive over good gravel roads beyond the lake, through some of the most beautiful country in the state, to the hotel. Coveys of quail and deer are a frequent sight in the back country far from city sights and sounds.

In spring, ocotillo toss their scarlet plumes against the skies moved by gentle winds. Cacti that include hedgehogs, prickly pear add their color to the splendor as to the crowns of white blossoms atop the tall saguaros. On the desert floor, marigolds, brittle bush and apricot mallow create a carpet of many hues. It is one of those rare areas in our state that has changed little despite the heavy influx of people to Arizona. It is still unspoiled by the impatient nudge of progress. Since 1930, the telephone installed at Castle Hot Springs Resort Hotel has been number one. This venerable and dignified dowager is still number one in the hearts of her aficionados.

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The Apaches originally named the site after its "magic waters." Times have changed, modern buildings constructed, skeet shooting, swimming, tennis, golf and trail rides are now part of the daily fare . . . but at 400,000 gallons per day, the "magic water" still flows.