White Mesa

WHITE MESA One Of The West's Lesser Known Spectaculars Text by Lynn and Willis Kinnear

They come in a variety of colors: black and gray, red and blue, and white. The mesas of Arizona.Probably the least known, yet offering some of the most spectacular formations, is White Mesa in northeastern Arizona. To most people it is just a location on the map and undoubtedly will remain that way for a long time to come.

It stands as a large white mass about ten miles north of Cow Springs, on the Navajo Trail, which is about twenty-eight miles east of Tuba City. The Navajo community of Kaibito lies at the northwest base of the mesa and Square Butte is at the northeast edge. Directly north of it is the famous landmark, Navajo Mountain, rising to 10,338 feet.

The average person driving along the highway can see nothing unique about it. However, the discerning eye can dimly see two large monoliths rising up from the top surface. Also to be seen when the sun is in the east, and looking toward the west, is a large arch or natural bridge.

With one or two exceptions very little seems to be known about this mesa. Our interest was aroused a number of years ago when a friend suggested we might find it of interest.

It is obvious that various Arizona mesas get their names from the coloration of the sides of the mesas. One wonders about White Mesa. True, the sides are very definitely white. But reports back in the 1880's refer to it as White Horse Mesa. No explanation is offered as to why a "horse" got into the act.

One day we started out for White Mesa, but what promised to be a day trip of adventure and discovery turned out to be rather frustrating. The result was that it took us six trips, spread out over several years, to finally see most of the scenic wonders of the mesa. The fourwheel drive belonged to our long-time friend Bill Crawley of Kayenta. He always drove us and a Navajo went with us to act as interpreter and also to be a third man to help dig us out whenever we got stuck, which has been frequent over the years.

Not only did it take us six trips, but also two plane flights were necessary before we were able to fully find our way around.

The size of the mesa becomes truly impressive as one gets closer to it. On the south face numerous cavelike openings are discernable. In times past no doubt they were dwelling places of the Anasazi, but are inaccessible now.

The drive toward White Mesa Natural Bridge is almost a cross-country journey with countless one-time wagon trails to confuse one. Occasionally, following what appears to have been a road, it is rather amusing to discover that the tracks finally come together. The sheep had changed their pattern of travel!

White Mesa Natural Bridge is most impressive when a frontal view is obtained. The only way we had of measuring the height of the opening was for Tinker Jones, the Navajo who accompanied us on one of our trips, to climb into it. Knowing his height, we guessed that it was about seventy-five feet high. We probably guessed wrong for it seems much more than that.

To the east of the bridge at the base of the mesa are unique formations carved by the wind and rain. Coming in various shapes and sizes these are referred to as "The Mushrooms."

Near this area we were going cross-country slowly, of necessity, and luckily so. There loomed in front of us, withno indication of its existence, a large deep pit. If elephants lived in the area it would have made a great trap. The jeep would have seemed small at the bottom of it. On so-called level ground this large pit is quite a mystery.

Two interesting formations were visible as we started up the side of White Mesa from the south. They probably have never been named but to us they gave the appearance of a western saddle and a large church bell. When venturing into isolated areas we have a habit of naming formations for our own amusement. Another formation in this area is "The Boot." It really is a giant one.

The search for the two monoliths on the top of the mesa was rather exasperating. We were able to get to the top but could not decide where to go from there. The pinion and juniper were high, obscuring any side views. There were countless trails crisscrossing one another, and we often found ourselves crossing our own tracks. It was about our third trip to the top that we found ourselves at the foot of the monoliths perched on the edge of the mesa. They seemed entirely out of place. A rough estimate is that the slender one, often called "The Poodle," is about eighty to ninety feet high. Its companion from a certain angle gives the appearance of a "seal."

Looking over the edge of the mesa at this point a unique feature is seen standing alone about halfway down the face. It definitely gives the appearance of the back view of the Sphinx.

When we finally made our way to an eastern edge of the mesa, we were rewarded with a view of the spectacular arch we understand is called "Margaret Arch," named after Barry Goldwater's wife. However, we understand the Navajos call it Angel Arch because of the formation of the left portion of it. A deep canyon separated us from the arch, but at the base we could see a large opening shaped like a giant keyhole.

When we were viewing this arch a violent thunderstorm overtook us. We were immersed in thunder, wind, and rain. It did not last long, but in that half-hour period it was figured that about four inches of rain had fallen. Afterward all was quiet, except for the distant roar of hundreds of waterfalls suddenly appearing on the cliff opposite us. Just a few hours earlier we had been deep in a canyon and were thankful that we were no longer there.

A short way north of this viewpoint we were rewarded with a view of Inaccessible Ruin in a cave on the far side of the canyon below us. Erosion through the centuries has made any entry impossible, either from the top or bottom.

We have heard of attempts to reach such ruins. Researchers have been let down from the top by cable. After a drop of a hundred feet or more they found themselves dangling in air and unable to swing some fifty feet or more into the ruins because of the overhanging lip of the cave.

These ruins seem to have been fairly well protected. It is likely they are in as good shape as those at Three Turkey Ruins in the Canyon de Chelly area. There the roofs are intact, ladders rise out of roof doors, artifacts are scattered about, and everything gives the impression that the inhabitants are all away for the day, but it has been a long day that has lasted some 700 years.

Although it took centuries to make this ruin inaccessible, rapid changes often do occur in this whole area of Arizona due to violent thunderstorms. Bernheimer in his book Rainbow Bridge tells of viewing Promontory Ruin in Alcove Canyon. He stated that it was impossible to get to it. However, on one occasion we were able to drive into the ruin, but this was about fifty years later than his trip.

Adjacent to Inaccessible Ruin and rising from the canyon floor is a slender spire, the top fourth precariously balanced on the base.

It was only as the result of a plane trip that we found our way down into Kaibito Wash. Once down in it, travel was fairly smooth although deep sand was often encountered. The first thing we came to was Cathedral Arch. A majestic formation. Although it is not a true arch, the name seems most appropriate. A short distance farther on, high on the side of the canyon wall, is what is called White Craig Arch, or natural bridge. We have also heard of it being called Kaibito Arch.

Travel continued up the wash until it became very narrow and huge rocks blocked our way.

Returning, we were wending our way among the various obstacles with everyone watching where we were going, all except Lynn, who suddenly shouted for us to stop. It almost sounded like we were in trouble. We were calmly told to back up a short way because she had spotted a rock. Looking through a crevice, there, looming high, was a most majestic formation. It cannot be seen except through the narrow opening of the crevice. This we named "The Crown" and it stands high and white, framed by the red walls of the crevice.

Undoubtedly there is much more to White Mesa than we were able to discover on our numerous journeys to it. However, what we have seen indicates to us that at some time in the future, if the Navajos would care to do it, roads could be made leading to the scenic points. That is up to them. In uniqueness and coloration few areas can surpass what White Mesa has to offer, and any fee they might want to charge would be well worth it.

All that we have been able to discover about White Mesa over the years can now be covered in one day by one familiar with it. If you desire to see White Mesa we suggest that you contact someone who knows his way about and have him take you. This is precautionary advice; otherwise, you can get lost or stuck, and spend days getting nowhere.