Tombstone . . . Now Bisbee

Towns Too Tough to DieTombstone...

Anyone familiar with the West knows that Tombstone is "the town too tough to die." When mining ceased after the turn of the century, that was supposed to be the end for Tombstone. It was to have been just another mining town here today, gone tomorrow. But the town and a few of its people hung on, and today approximately 1,500 residents regale in Tombstone's past. Truly, Tombstone deserves its title, "Too tough to die." Now Bisbee, a neighbor and old min-ing rival, has seen its mines close down. Pessimists predict nothing but gloom, and even death for the town. But those who know the town and its people are certain Bisbee will follow its rival in also being too tough to die.

What Bisbee lacks in mining activity today, it more than compensates in charm and character. It is unique. It is as though time stopped one September afternoon say, in 1906. Photographers and artists relish the garish, sometimes stylish architecture, the weathered buildings, narrow streets, gaily painted homes, the flower-laden yards and the people. Some call it the most "photogenic" or "picturesque" town in the Southwest. I have conducted seven different photographic field trips and workshops to the town. The reaction, upon first seeing Bisbee, is a complimentary, "This place is something else!" Sometimes it takes a photographer, even some seasoned ones, two or three days to get their "visual bearings" again. There is simply too much of everything to paint or photograph.

Bisbee is more than just a quaint, visual place. It is also steeped in history. It is not the typical mining town begun in the 1880's. Bisbee is very much a 20th century town. Its growth was somewhat implosive rather than explosive, and perhaps its history just a little less spectacular, than Tombstone.

Now Bisbee

The first discovery of minerals in Bisbee supposedly occurred in 1875 when Hugh Jones came into the region looking for silver. Reports said he was disappointed when the ore showed only "copper stains." He apparently left without establishing any claims.

Two years later, three Army scouts camped in Mule Pass and one of them, John Dunn, found several samples of good copper ore. Dunn couldn't prospect because of his Army duties, but instead grubstaked George Warren. Warren staked out numerous claims, Brought in some other prospectors and eventually named the area the Warren Mining District. The region would eventually be known as one of the world's richest copper producing areas.

Phelps Dodge and Company, which was a small eastern firm at the time, sent Dr. James Douglas to Arizona in 1880, hoping to acquire copper properties. He did just that, concentrating his efforts around Bisbee. Several other firms established mines in the area, many of which were later bought up by the rapidly growing Phelps Dodge firm.

By the mid-1880's Bisbee was a rival for Tombstone. The latter's ore deposits were troubled by water in the mine shafts, but Bisbee was becoming a major mining town in its own rightminus Wyatt Earp and his brothers, Doc Holliday, Johnny Ringo and other "characters."

Because of the rugged terrain in the Bisbee area, it immediately took on unusual characterstill very much a part of the charm found today in the town. The original Bisbee, now referred to as "old Bisbee," is situated in a series of canyons and gulches, with steep hillsides rising skyward. First tents, then shacks and finally well-built frame and adobe homes were constructed on these hills-all within walking distance of the mines. One house would be constructed on a tier directly above another home. Thus, the front yard might lead directly to the roof of the home below. An old Bisbee saying claims that a man with a wad of tobacco in his mouth could spit into his neighbor's chimney. A visit to these hillside homes today makes the statement very plausible.

In these early days of Bisbee's development there was a real fear of Apache raids. School children underwent "Indian drills." When a town whistle blew four times - two shorts, a long and a short-children were to head directly for the security of one of the nearby mine shafts.

By 1900, Bisbee was one of the liveliest mining towns in the West. Much of the "activity" took place up and down famed Brewery Gulch, a milelong street leading northward from the old business district. Approximately 40 saloons lined the gulch, intertwined with gaudy hotels and brothels. It was a rowdy district - a typical early mining town properly equipped with the diversions demanded by men spending dangerously long hours toiling underground.

Numerous underground mines were developed in the area over the yearsthe most famous and productive being the Copper Queen. The first open pit mine in Bisbee was started prior to World War I. Known as the Sacramento Pit, it produced for years, but its history is completely overshadowed by the Lavender Pit, a prime visitor attraction which comes to the very edge of U.S. 80.

Mining was begun at the Lavender Pit in the 1950's and it eventually grew to a mammoth opening covering 300acres and reaching a depth of 1,000 feet.

It has always been something of an economic reality that the well-being of a mining town ebbs and flows with the price of the valuable mineral being mined. That has been true of Bisbee for decades. But in the late 1960's, persistent rumors began floating around Bisbee and its "suburbs" of Warren, Lowell, San Jose, etc. that Phelps Dodge was going to phase out its Bisbee mining operations because the profitable high grade ore was nearly depleted.

Finally in the fall of 1974, rumor became fact. The firm, known locally as "The Company" or "The Corporation," announced that effective with the completion of the night shift on December 14, 1974 mining in the Lavender Pit would cease. Cease it did.

A few months later another Phelps Dodge pronouncement stated that the firm's last remaining mining operation - that of the fabled underground Copper Queen mine would halt on June 13th (1975). That meant that Bisbee would be an ex-mining town.

As one third-generation Bisbee miner put it, "Ghost town? Never! But there ain't no mining here now!" Longtime residents, many of them believing that the huge Phelps Dodge mining operation would never shut down, look hopefully to the hills above old Bisbee and call attention to exploratory core-drilling being done by smaller mining firm attempting to locate more ore deposits in the area.

A majority of the Phelps Dodge miners have been offered jobs at the corporation's other mining properties in Eastern Arizona and nearby New Mexico. But it is obviously agonizing for people to pick up and move from the canyons, gulches and hillside homes they have known for decades. Some are determined to remain and wait to see what will happen.

To these people there is little comfort in statistics, but Bisbee has been one of the nation's biggest mining properties. When the last ore was hauled up from the Copper Queen in June, it meant that approximately $2 billion worth of copper had been extracted from this rugged area.

Some ponder these statistics and ask, "How could anything this big ever come to an end?"

Realistically, Bisbee has some severe economic days ahead. The loss of the town's major payroll is a reality. The tax base crumbles when productive mines are re-assessed as unproductive. Many homes have appeared for sale as families transfer to other Phelps Dodge mining communities.

But the closing of the Lavender Pit and the Copper Queen mines was not a shock for most. It had to happen some day. People saved. Most were prepared.

Bisbee has many other things going for it. Because it's only a 28-mile drive to Fort Huachuca, many Army families have found financial and other unique advantages to living in Bisbee. They have found Bisbee to be an interesting and comfortable place to live, and a town where one might retire.

Bisbee is a peaceful town, perhaps more so today since the mines have closed. - Chris Kemberling In many ways, Bisbee is unique. Fire protection for the tiers of homes nestled on the hillsides is provided by a 25-year-old fire truck specially designed and built to navigate the narrow, winding streets leading into the hilly residential areas. The truck has a narrow chassis, enabling it to make extremely sharp turns.

Residents in the old part of Bisbee must still go to the post office for their mail. No human being could trudge up hundreds perhaps thousands of steps to make home delivery.

And Bisbee's old four-story high school is said to be the only public building in the country where each story opens onto ground level. The building was planned to utilize the hillside to the fullest.

Bisbee's climate is ideal. Its 5300 foot altitude is comfortable year 'round pleasant in summer, and very livable in winter (that means an occasional light snow, usually gone by noon).

Now that the well-paying Phelps Dodge pay scale is gone, there is hope that new industries might be attracted to the community.

Tourism holds great promise. The town is still basically undiscovered, yet easily accessible on U.S. 80, approximately 40 miles south of Interstate 10. Bisbee and Tombstone have joined efforts to attract travelers on a circle route through their communities.

A number of people have recognized the potential of Bisbee with or without mining and have invested in numerous properties in town. The once-plush Copper Queen Hotel was purchased in 1971 by Steve Hutchison from Phelps Dodge. He has redecorated it-and has successfully attracted regular visitors from Tucson and Phoenix who want to go back in time, get away from the city, or just "honeymoon."

Hutchison would also like to turn several of his other investments into tourist attractions.

Another promoter, Ed Smart, has been a major investor in Aspen, Colorado. Smart sees the potential of this sleepy ex-mining town, and has made numerous investments in Bisbee. One is the town's former jail, which he hopes to convert into a museum housing the memorabilia of actor John Wayne.

The people of Bisbee have a special character. They are an unusual mix of Mexicans, Serbs, Irish, German and what have you each culture adding another dimension to the town. Foremost, they are miners-close and loyal. Many families are third generation residents, yet they display an interest and curiosity for new residents, ranging from transient youth to retired military officers.

There is a prevailing attitude in the community that rings loud and clear... "Bisbee may be down, but not out!"

It may well be the second Arizona mining community "too tough to die!"