Poolside Dining

Called the "white city" because of its clean streets and the townspeople's white tropical clothing, Mérida has been the main town on the peninsula since it was founded in 1524 by Don Francisco Montejo. Today it still retains much of its colonial charm of narrow streets and quiet parks. Along the Paseo Montejo, an elegant boulevard lined by trees, open air cafés and magnificent Spanish-Moorish mansions with their formal gardens, traditions are mixed with the ways of 20th century Mexico. Antique horsedrawn carriages roll through the streets. The hotels are known for their tropical gardens. The plaza itself is a delightful mixture of colonial archi-tecture and modern Mexican atmosphere.

A few blocks away, Cepeda Park is a center for the horsedrawn carriages (called "calesas" but nicknamed "pulpitos" because of their supposed resemblance to pulpits) and quaint restaurants and cafés. The "calesas" are especially fun for a ride down the Paseo Montejo. One of the first mansions along the Paseo, formerly the governor's palace, now houses the excellent Museum of Archeology and History with its fine collection of Mayan artifacts.

Mérida's huge public market is also worth a visit, especially if you are looking for Yucatan handicrafts, like hats, bags, mats and similar crafts made from sisal hemp; or the "huipil", a simple white cotton shift with embroidered hem and neckline; or the "guayabera" tropical shirts. There are also fine crafts made of inlaid coral, including the rare black coral found on Cozumel's Palancar Reef; tortoise shell products, pottery, hammocks and shoes.

The dining and nightlife of Mérida is whatever you want it to be, from plush international style dining to Yucatan special-ties, such as venison, seafood, barbecued chicken, "pibil" in banana leaves, wild turkey, and plenty of tropical fruits.☐ Merida is the gateway and principal city to Yucatan Peninsula and Mexico's bright Turquoise Riviera. Close by are the most accessible archaeological sites of Uxmal, Chichenitza, Tulum and others. We recommend Barbachano Travel Service as our number one source of service and information for the above areas. Members of ASTA, IATA, and AMAV, the Barbachano organization maintains offices in New York, Chicago, Miami, London, Phoenix, Merida and Mexico City. Home office address is P.O. Box 90, Merida, Yucatan; Tel. 1-76-40.

SEA of CORTES - PACIFIC COAST from page 5

A “patrician project” is the newest dream Careyes being called a “cultivated wilderness” even to herds of horses. The emphasis by international developers is on a ten year plan launched with the blessing of a formidable array of social set names. The vision includes a colonial type village halfway between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo, hotels, guest houses, villas, and condominiums.

Ecological balance will be maintained by the Careyes “green zone” left largely in its natural state for the conservation of the horses along with deer, goats, puma, ducks, egrets and heron to delight riders along mountain pathways. A yacht club, sportsmen's club, and the Playa Grande golf course are a part of the 16 miles of unbroken shoreline and seven beaches.

More a reality than Careyes is the neighboring newest of the Club Mediteraneé's swinging resorts. Playa Blanca accents the cost free package plans presenting three meals a day of French, Continental, and Mexican cuisine, complimentary cocktails, almost enough wine to bathe in, tennis, sailing, picnics, scuba diving, snorkeling, calisthenic, judo, yoga, swimming, equipment to enjoy them and lessons on how to do them. Evening entertainment ranges from classic recordings to live dance bands, cabaret or the game show pastimes.

Transportation is provided by flights from New York, Los Angeles, Houston, Montreal or Toronto to Manzanillo's multimillion international Playa de Oro airport. As they say at Club Mediteraneé/Mexico, you can do everything, or nothing, for the same price.

Downshore is Ixtapa, Zihuatanejo's new neighbor, one of the tandem FONATUR resorts with location chosen for its perfect climate, prevailing winds, crystalline waters and with benefit of a specially built international airport for flights from Mexico City, Guadalajara, and abroad.

The typically golden Pacific sands contrast with the intense green of the virgin forest that clasp a tranquil lagoon in its depths inviting calm water boating and water skiing as well as a refuge for exotic birds.

Ixtapa's hotel zone and residential area offer nearness to an international-level 18 hole course and plans include a 2500 capacity convention center. Daily 45 minute flights from Mexico City began in early 1975 and the resort's capacity is amplified by the longtime favorites among the small inns of Zihuatanejo itself.

The great crescent of the almost landlocked bay boasts of the tranquil waters and scenic exuberance.

The ridge-runner highway of the Jalisco coast leads to little roads that dangle a necklace of perfect bays to entice the traveler, out-of-the-way retreats of Cuastecomate, Chamela, Playa Blanca, Tenacatita, and Melaque. Down from the Guadalajara area come the discoverers by plane, rail, and highway. Up to the near highlands go those in search of the traditional carnival time Mardi Gras fun and famed bullfight programs of the town of Autlan..

Unobtrusively Barra de Navidad lives with its exciting past of official ship builder for expeditions to the Sea of Cortes, dispatcher of the famed Lopez de Legaspi armada to colonize the Philippines, and home port for the silk and spice trade galleons from the Orient for trans-shipment to Spain.

The twin bays of Santiago and Manzanillo offer something old, something new, the art of providing pleasure borrowing from their kindly climate and the something blue from incredible seas and the fighting lightning flash of sleek marlin on the line.

Santiago's white cottage colonies, its hotels, gleaming black pearl sands and its popularity with nationals was a long-kept secret but budgeting international travellers have found it. The Santiago peninsula with its charming trailer courts divides Santiago Bay from the more immense refuge of the Manzanillo harbor. Improved as a destination for yachtsmen by its new inner cove the town of Manzanillo plays a role of great importance as a port for the active world trade.

Manzanillo looks contentedly across the bay at luxury condominium towers and shares its open air markets with visitors. In today's Manzanillo and its boom of the 70's there is a famously designed El Palmar 18 hole course for those who stay at sea level at the Las Hadas resort. On the upsweep of land there are tours to the capital city of Colima in the autumn for its state fair and year-round for its attractive city life. The ancient culture of western Mexico has left copious vestiges and some outstanding examples are displayed in the Colima museum.

Activities of interest to do in the Colima capital, founded in 1523, include a visit to the incredible Zaragoza antique collection located in a museum and in the neighboring El Carmen hacienda. There the memorabilia of another era includes the more than 300 perfectly functioning automobiles dating from the turn of the century.

An extension of this excursion includes the drive to the cool heights of the forest retreat of El Jabali on the slopes of El Fuego volcano with a picturesque stop in the arcades of the all-white village of Comala.

Along this coast the deep waters are dominion of sailfish, sword fish, marlin, sierra, red snapper, tuna, dorado, bonito and some thirty other varieties. The playful shore patrol of vigilant dolphins escort ships to and from dockside.

The 30-mile-long Cuyutlan Lagoon is a destination for those who love rich tropical scenery or a lazy day in a hammock waiting for that sensational glimpse of the famous transparent green wave against the most romantic sunset.

Longer jaunts include those up to the craft villages on the shores of Lake Patzcuaro in the state of Michoacan or the rose stone colonial charm of its capital, Morelia, with the alternate of a return to the plush comfort of Manzanillo or an extension to Michoacan's Playa Azul.

In port shops, in the elegant boutiques of resort towers, and off hotel lobbies is the exciting array of native treasures in handmade jewelry, beads, leather goods, resort wear, pottery, hammocks, and art from the most ingenious of Mexican craftsmen.

International air transport from Europe, the U.S., Canada, and Latin American lands to Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Puerto Vallarta speed holiday-makers to the rare seascapes on 45 minute flights from central Mexico to Ixtapa or Manzanillo. Pullman service nightly on the train from Guadalajara to Manzanillo, or frequent deluxe buses from Morelia, Guadalajara, and Puerto Vallarta offer good transport apart from rental car agency service in all of them. Yacht basins at Ixtapa and Manzanillo provide shelter and sleek passenger ocean liners make regular port calls at Manzanillo.

Attire is fancy free with light wardrobes suggested for day and a little something warmer against the evening sea breezes.

The climate along Mexico's Pacific Coast is lovely with the temperature normally in the 70's and 80's. Clear blue skies and golden sun predominate all year round, including the rainy season (June-October) which refreshes the climate with short afternoon showers.

TOSTADAS

To build a tostada, stack any and everything skyscraperhigh on a crisply fried tortilla. This is an open-faced sandwich, tricky to eat and be neat as it's strictly a handto-mouth affair. Try not to dribble.

Guests enjoy making their own. Arrange warm, crisp tortillas on a serving plate and surround with bowls of beans, shredded cooked meat, a sauce, sliced tomatoes, thinly sliced onions, shredded lettuce, sliced ripe olives, slices of avocado and sour cream.

Recipes

The Joy of Mexico is a delightful little book edited, illustrated and published by Jo Yelton who lives in a beautiful old, restored colonial home in Alamos, Sonora, Mexico. Wife of retired U.S. career diplomat Elmer Yelton, Jo knows Mexican and Latin American cooking first hand with many years in those countries capped by longtime residence at Hermosillo where Mr. Yelton served as consul general. In addition to recipes the book is full of tips and ideas for entertaining, decorating and just plain interesting bits of historical lore. Of value to anyone planning a trip down the west coast are easy-tounderstand guide hints about roads, hotels and places of interest. It's fun, it's authentic and you'll think of at least ten friends you'll want to send it to. The Joy of Mexico is available at book stores or write: Jo Yelton, 625 North Van Buren Avenue, No. 108, Tucson, Arizona 65711. Price is $3.00 plus 25 cents for postage and handling. with notes on food and travel

The Joy of Mexico THE JOY OF MEXICO

KACHINAS: the Barry Goldwater Collection at the Heard Museum

The masked figure, left, is Muyingwa, while the rarely made dolls on the right are Two-Horned priests or Alosakum. These figures were probably carved during the 1920's.

Editor's Book Review

The printers of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS MAGAZINE present a special full color selection of one of the world's most important Indian Kachina Collections. It is beautifully illustrated throughout with photographs by Jerry D. Jacka, authoritative text is by Barton Wright, book design is by Gary Avey and reproduction is by brilliant W. A. Krueger "Micro-Color." We must qualify this seventytwo page book as one of the most attractive and factual source books published this year. Release date is timely for holiday gift giving and revenues from the sale of the book are committed to the Heard Museum, a nonprofit institution. “Kachinas” is available only through the Heard Museum, 22 East Monte Vista Road, Phoenix, Arizona 85004. It is priced at $5.95 for the soft cover edition and $9.95 for the hard cover edition. Books may be purchased at the museum or add $1 for postage and handling if ordered by mail. JOSEPH STACEY

Do Not Send Orders To Arizona Highways Magazine

OPPOSITE PAGE: Mixed Kachina Dance line left to right: A'hote, Rügan, a Chasing Star Kachina, Mongwu (the great Horned Owl), Ma'alo, Tawa (the Sun Kachina), Chukuwimkya (a clown who has crowded into the line where he doesn't belong), Sivuwukoqöte, and another Sun Kachina.

LEFT: Chaveyo, Qöcha Motsin, Awatovi Soyoktaka, Owangazrozro.

BELOW: Left to right these dolls are Ewiro or Wuwuyomo (in the white Kilte), followed by a Rattle Runner, Situlili (a guard), and Kweo the Wolf Kachina.

LEFT: Koyemsi, or Mudhead Kachina, carries a Mountain sheep on his back while a Fox Kachina, right, carries another fox.

A Short Primer Relative to the History and Future of the Young Nation Born of Old Mexico By Gilberto Limon De La Rocha

Mexico is an ever changing country, a country with an impulse perhaps more vigorous than most other Latin American Nations, its industrial, commercial and agricultural expansion has set a pace for other nations to follow, yet it still has a long road to travel and many goals to achieve that seem to be still very far off in attaining. There is, however, a sense of awareness among the people and Government of this nation of Mexico's new strength and role among the Latin American Countries, but at the same time this awareness also embraces our Country's shortcomings which are many. To understand a country well, one must know its history and Mexico has a history as varied and rugged as its landscape. It is very difficult to portray a whole nation and give a precise idea in a few lines.

A parallelism in the history of that great country which is the United States and ours may perhaps give us a partial answer as to the "whys" of Mexico's seemingly slow pace in its structural development.

When the pilgrims from Europe first arrived to what is now the United States of America they brought with them the hope of escaping religious and ideological persecution; the idea of freedom was deeply rooted in them and the promise of a new life loomed high in this new continent. There were carpenters, blacksmiths, masons and people of many other varied trades and professions. The pilgrims' idea was to strengthen their own communities and preserve their freedom and way of life. When complete independence from England was achieved in the latter part of the eighteenth century, there followed a period of lasting prosperity, the flourishing of the arts and commerce and an expansion unequalled perhaps by any other nation in the world.

able obstacles. Since Hernan Cortes soldiers were searching for gold and silver to enrich themselves as quickly as possible, the idea of starting a new life on this New World was really secondary. Spaniards intermarried widely with the Indians; a new race thus came into being, the "mestizo" of mixed blood, which is Mexico's main ethnical stock. The Spaniards subdued both the Mestizos and the Indians, who they treated as slaves. It was of course to the best interests of the Spaniards to keep these people illiterate, for once they started to awaken, they would most surely try to defend themselves and improve their lot. For this reason the few schools that were built in Mexico at that time, were exclusively for Spaniards or "Creoles" (people of European stock born in Mexico).

This oppression continued until 1810 when enslaved mestizos and Indians under the leadership of Miguel Hidalgo (himself a Spaniard) rebelled against their Spanish oppressors and declared war on Spain. (This was 24 years after the 13 American Colonies signed the Declaration of Independence, breaking their ties from England.) After many years of fighting, independence was attained. It was not until 1910 (one hundred years after Mexico obtained political independence from Spain) that the Mexican Revolution broke out.

The still oppressed rebelled against their landlords, the insurgents were fighting against the National Government and the protective laws that favored only the wealthy class. After the once enslaved people obtained control of the government, things continued to simmer for several years. There were isolated uprisings, then a period of reconstruction in which Mexico was really trying for the very first time in its history, to govern itself. Those were hard and trying years. Mexico was really experimenting in self-government without help, without experience, without the recognition of most of the world's big nations and without a cent in its treasury. Modern Mexico's stability did not begin until 1936, when the strength of the Central Government was consolidated. So we can see that this nation really has had only a few years of development as compared to other countries. Notwithstanding this fact, Mexico is considered today to be Latin America's most stable nation and on the road to full development. It has been able to channel and adapt to its own idiosyncrasy, outstanding and positive characteristics of both its European and Indian Heritage. Thus the arts started the flourish, paintings of world renown artists, such as Rivera, O'Gorman, Tamayo, Orozco and many others adorn the world's outstanding galleries. Mexico is perhaps now, the Spanish speaking country which produces, edits and distributes throughout all the Spanish speaking world, the greatest number of cultural and literary works and writings, its music is heard all through Latin America and Europe, its ballets, especially the "Fine Arts Folkloric Ballet" has toured the globe. A new breed of contemporary poets, writers, composers and artists is emerging.

Yet there are still many, many things to achieve, many obstacles to overcome. Although relative prosperity is recent, the future looms bright and confidence of all Mexicans in their country is positive. Please make check payable to the Arizona State Library Asso-ciation and mail the order to the Division of Library, Archives and Public Records, 3rd Floor, State Capitol, Phoenix, Arizona 85007.

1974 Index to Arizona 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