White Mountain Wonderland

Tucked high and away in the White Mountains of eastern Arizona, about four driving hours from Phoenix, is a beautiful natural paradise called Hannagan Meadow.

Under a buttery glaze of sun, piñon, aspen, pine, juniper, oak and cottonwood thrive amidst a lush summer carpet of thick grasses, dotted with wild iris, gentian, yellow groundsel and firecracker plants.

In the fall, at this 9000-foot elevation, the raspberries are fat and lush and piñon nuts hang heavy from their branches all ripe for plucking.

Deer, elk and turkey as well as bear, mountain lion, coyote and javelina call the meadow home, too. As do a variety of birds from bluejays to ebony-black crows, in all about 40 varieties.

As though nature had not done enough, in a profligate moment she also endowed the land with young streams that meander through the high meadow, their larger relatives, Bear Wallow, Fish, K.P. and Grant creeks, stocked with wild rainbow trout and apache natives, as are the Blue and the Black rivers.

In the summer of 1540, Coronado passed this way, in search of the fabled riches of the “Seven Cities of Cibola.” Today, US 666 skirts the 439-year-old trail, leading the traveler to Hannagan Meadow and a totally different kind of wealth.

For visitors to the area, overnight accommodations are available at Hannagan's Meadow Lodge. Reservations are recommended, especially during the peak months of July and August.

Down the road toward Alpine is Beaverhead Lodge. It offers eight cabins and supervised hunting, in season, as well as horseback riding.

Coronado is said to have passed Hannagan Meadow on his search for Cibola. After his fateful passage, 300 and more years elapsed before white men again walked the rolling hills of this wild garden.

(Left) Mule deer at home in the meadow. Debs Metzong

(Far, left) Study in structure. Jeff Kida

(Left, below) The wild flowers of summer. P.K. Weis

continued from page 2 But if lodging isn't to your liking, there are several area campgrounds. Hannagan Meadow campground is small and without running water. It is well-kept, though, with cleared spaces and stone firepits. Also in the vicinity is K.P. Cienega campground, a beautiful place with a running spring and more space than its counterpart in the Meadow, although farther from the main road. For backpackers and hikers there are numerous trails throughout the area. The K.P. Trail, which veers off from the campground of the same name and is marked, as is the Steeple Creek Trail, which is across the road from the Meadow campground. And then there are Bear Wallow, Rose Peak and Fish Creek trails, all of which spell out some of Arizona's best hiking country. For the more advanced hiker there also are trails leading into the Blue Range Primitive Area. But before you tackle this country check with the Ranger Station at Alpine or Springerville. There you can get maps and up-to-the-minute information on trail and weather conditions. It's also a good idea to let them know where you're going, how many people there are in your party and when you expect to return. Summer thunderstorms or winter blizzards can come up quickly at this elevation, so even if you plan to just tour the countryside, it's best to check with the Weather Service or the Forest Service before you make the journey, especially if you plan to travel any of the numerous backroads. Worth visiting, too, are Alpine and Springerville north of the Meadow. Each has lakes and scenic areas nearby and both are worthwhile stopping places. Near Hannagan is the town of Blue, which boasts beautiful vistas, a gas sta-tion and a post office with a postmaster who can tell you all you want to know about the history of the area. On the Luna Lake road to Blue you'll pass the Alpine Country Club golf course. Amazingly enough, here, in the midst of all this rustic beauty, you'll find a manicured green, complete with pro shop and fringe-top golf carts. Another way to Blue is via Redhill Road at Beaverhead Lodge. Allow at least half a day for this trip, though. People may differ on many things about Hannagan Meadow, but most will agree that the best time to visit is from August through October, when a temperate climate prevails and the forests turn into a splendor of reds, yellows and golds. But, truly, whenever you go, you'll find Hannagan Meadow to be a veritable paradise of wind and bird song, lush meadows, great trees . . . and lots of peace.