On the Trail of Spanish Gold

Seven Cities of Cibola it's not, but you'll find enough treasures along the Coronado Trail to fill your photo albums and memories. Francisco Vasquez de Coronado and his armored conquistadores first made the journey in June and July of 1540, searching in vain for what the Spaniards thought would be cities filled with gold. They didn't find those fabled cities, but lucky for us, they blazed a trail that still produces more gold each year than you'll ever count in banks. Today, the trail that bears his name stretches about 100 miles along U.S. Route 666, from Clifton and Morenci in the south to Springerville in the north, cutting the heart of Arizona's Greenlee County as it snakes along the Arizona-New Mexico border. History records that Coronado led his troops along the path from south to north, taking the steepest stretch first. (From Morenci's open-pit copper mine, at an elevation of 4710 feet, the climb reaches 9400 feet at the Mogollon Rim.) If the summer of 1540 was warm, Coronado was probably glad to be traveling into cool weather, as he and his men worked their way to the north. But in doing so, he just may have missed some of the breathtaking views you get by making the trip north to south. That way you slip head first into the rich scenery. Springerville, in Arizona's White Mountains, is the upper end of the Trail. From here it meanders south to meet U.S. 70 in east-central Graham County. The “Madonna of the Trail,” a large statue, stands in the center of Springerville at the junction of highways 60 and 666. This Pioneer Mother monument was erected in 1928 by the Daughters of the American Revolution, in cooperation with the National Old Trails Association, to honor those who endured the hardships of blazing the paths connecting the East with the West. It's a fitting inspiration for our journey.

The Coronado Trail

From Springerville, we head toward Alpine, some 25 miles south. Part of the beauty of the Coronado Trail are the sidetrips, like the one to Luna Lake, just east of Alpine. It's a popular fishing hole for Arizona, Texas and New Mexico residents, and a traveler can set one foot in New Mexico and one in Arizona along this short jaunt off the Trail on U.S. 180.

Luna Lake is man-made to provide irrigation water in New Mexico. But that hasn't hurt its fishing reputation. Anglers say young trout have been known to grow as much as 12 inches in less than a year in Luna Lake. It's also a pleasant campsite for those traveling the Trail with tents, campers or recreational vehicles.

About 8 miles north of Alpine is the settlement of Nutrioso, a mountain hamlet at the foot of 10,955-foot-high Escudilla Mountain. Escudilla means “porridge bowl” in Spanish. The description is apt. The crater at the top of this old volcano does resemble the inside of a bowl.

Some of the most beautiful scenery along the Trail especially in the fall when skies are deep blue and trees are turning from shades of green to red, orange and yellow gold is just south of Alpine at Beaverhead and Hannagan Meadow.

This is the geographic heart of the White Mountains, known nationwide as a summer vacation paradise. The White Mountains claim some of the state's highest peaks, thus forming the state's highest mountain range. Some have likened it to a miniature Continental Divide, for here the headwaters of the Little Colorado River flow north through Greer, Springerville and Winslow to join the Colorado River at the eastern boundary of Grand Canyon National Park.

Spanish Gold

Beaverhead Lodge is nestled in a small valley amid towering pines. In early fall, while the southern part of the state is still suffering heat stroke, this spot offers a traveler cool, pine-scented breezes and a delightful sleeping atmosphere.

The White Mountains had been discovered by Indians long before white men ventured into the area. This was the summer hunting ground for many of the Apache tribes. Today, on the Fort Apache Reservation, a 1,644,972-acre complex in the White Mountains, the Apaches operate a recreation complex which includes snow skiing in winter, fishing and boating in summer plus all the other outdoor pastimes. This area also is excellent for hunting. Arizona's big game season begins with the opening of deer season theend of October. Deer, bear, elk, turkey and mountain lion are among the most popular game hunted in the White Mountains.

Set aside time for a stop at Hannagan Meadow. Its quiet beauty is like a dream come true. Wide open fields are every shade of green, graced with bright yellow flowers in spring, golden leaves in autumn, and deep blue skies always. Even when it rains in Hannagan Meadow, the open field gives way to magnificent rainbows and pots of gold. Tarry awhile and soak in the peace of soothing sights. Visit the meadow in late afternoon or early morning, and you may catch a glimpse of deer, elk or turkey feeding. Inviting you to prolong your stay, are a lodge, service station and resort accommodations.

Standing on this spot on the Trail is the monument marking the opening of the final link of this first "Ocean to Ocean" highway. It was dedicated in June, 1926, and remained a dirt road from here to Morenci for 36 years until paving was completed in 1962. Contrary to what many out-ofstaters think about Arizona, heavy snow often fills high mountain passes, and until the Trail was paved, the road beyond this point was impassable for several winter months each year. As much as 36 feet of snow has been known to accumulate in this area. Governor George W. P. Hunt, who was in office when the road was dedicated, approved the expenditure of $905,709.41 and that was for dirt

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