Interstate 17

(BELOW) The last saguaro cactus and the first trace of snow alert 1-17 motorists to the transition from desert to high grassland as they climb to the rim of the plateau. The Bradshaw Mountains fade into the distance.

(BELOW, RIGHT) Charles Orme, who grew up in the high chaparral country, still marvels at its beauty while riding the horse trails of Orme Ranch.

TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER SCHWEPKER FROM SAGUAROS TO THE TALL GREEN PINES... INTERSTATE 17, SCENIC HIGHWAY THROUGH ARIZONA'S HEARTLAND

Almost everyone has a favorite highway, where just the right kind of scenery creates special moods and that expansive feeling of motoring adventure. Mine happens to be a big "two-slabber" right in the heart of Arizona: Interstate Route 17. My highway dips and bends for about 150 miles through four distinct regionsdesert, grassland, river valley, and forested highland-as it winds its way northward from the spreading city of Phoenix. As I-17 rises from the desert floor, it climbs to a height of more than 7000 feet on the Mogollon Rim, bringing changes of climate, flora, and geology that combine to provide a full share of spectacular scenic extravaganzas. Hear Charlie Orme tell it (he was raised in the grassland and wild chaparral region that embraces I-17 just north of Cordes Junction): "This land has more subtleties, changes of color, and variety than any I've ever seen. It's the greatest place to live in all the world."

Each of the four regions through which this interstate wanders has its own special markings. The desert around Phoenix has tall saguaros, long miles of sun-blasted flatland, and rocky hills. As the road masters the grade above Black Canyon City, you're suddenly in high grassland where windmills, water tanks, and Hereford cattle accent the jutting rock outcrops and rolling hills.

Sunset Point, south of Cordes Junction, is one of Arizona's most popular rest stops. An attractive place for a family picnic, it overlooks the rugged Bradshaw Mountains and lives up to its name with dramatic evening displays. The highway next descends into the deep, wide valley of the Verde River, a land of cottonwoods, Indian ruins, and a great dome of deep blue sky. No newcomer is prepared for the sudden vista that reaches to the red and tan ramparts of the Mogollon Rim and Oak Creek and Sycamore canyons.(BELOW) A stone lookout tower at the McGuireville rest area provides a choice vantage for scenic views. (RIGHT) The rest area at Sunset Point is a busy pull-out spot on 1-17. Travelers can stop for safety checks before continuing the climb northward, or pause to enjoy the long westerly overlooks. (FOLLOWING PANEL, PAGES 8 AND 9) Day's last rays of sunlight yield to heavy storm clouds descending into the Verde Valley.

(LEFT) At work or play, travelers gravitate to 1-17. Professional drivers tow their loads up the icy grade near Stoneman Lake, and fun-seekers take advantage of embankments just off the right-of-way before the last snows of winter melt away. (BELOW) Arizona's highest point, Humphreys Peak near Flagstaff, is the crowning glory in a bejeweled journey.Then once more the road climbs, this time into juniper and piñon country. Just south of the turnoff onto State Route 179 is a watchtower lookout offering incredible hundred-mile views. From here, at night, travelers can see at least thirty miles of headlight-illuminated highway and the hillside town of Jerome, its twinkling lights seemingly suspended in the dark western sky. Finally, you top out in a wonder world of tall ponderosa pines, a deep, silent forest interrupted by verdant meadows. Just twenty-five miles ahead, the majestic bulk of the San Francisco Peaks breaks the skyline. At their feet lies the city of Flagstaff. There are other attractions along this 150 miles of open highway, to be sure, several of which will add to your fund of Arizona history: Pioneer Arizona Museum, just north of Phoenix; Fort Verde State Historic Park, at Camp Verde; and less than a brief crow hop beyond, Montezuma Castle National Monument, to name just a few. That's it, my favorite highway. It's a oneday driving adventure you'll never forget. In fact, like Charlie Orme, you'll find the land has a special fascination and a lure almost certain to call you back to explore its mysteries again and again.