Travel

Navajo Hoedown

INDIAN DANCES BREATHE EXCITEMENT INTO THE COUNTRY PICNIC ATMOSPHERE OF THE ANNUAL NAVAJO NATION FAIR TEXT BY WILLIAM HAFFORD PHOTOGRAPHS BY MONTY ROESSEL

THE ANNOUNCER'S VOICE SILENCES THE CHATTERING CROWD. 'NEXT, OUT OF CHUTE NUMBER FOUR, A COURAGEOUS COMPETITOR WHO LAST YEAR BROKE HIS HIP IN THE BULL-RIDING EVENT!' The apple-cheeked woman, wearing a casual dress and a wide smile, turns slowly, surveying the pressing crowd. In a heavy European accent, she whispers to her American companion, "Ve are completely zurrounded by Indians!"

Unlike the celluloid settlers in old Bmovies, who viewed such circumstances with trepidation, the foreign visitor appears elated. She is surrounded by cowboys as well. That's because many of the Indians at the annual Navajo Nation Fair are also real-life ranch hands and livestock owners.

Nearly 700 Native American cowboys - some from the professional rodeo circuit - congregate at the tribal fairgrounds in Window Rock, Arizona, each September for five days of wild-riding, bonebusting activity. The rodeo is only one of the events at the largest Native American fair on the continent.

The announcer's voice silences the chattering crowd. "Next, out of chute number four, a courageous competitor who last year broke his hip in the bullriding event! Now he's back, recovered and ready to ride: Bill Ward, a Cheyenne Sioux from Eagle Butte, South Dakota!"

The gate is thrown open and thousands of pounds of lunging, twisting, vibrating, "beef-on-the-hoof" kicks up the red dust of the arena. An appropriately jumpy tune from the all-Navajo band accompanies the bull's gyrating movements. Ward hangs on to win the first-place trophy, a handtooled saddle, and $2,526 in cash.

Like most of the foreign visitors and American tourists, the lady who is "surrounded" knows nothing about rodeo rules or judging procedures. No matter. Swept up by the color and excitement, she applauds wildly.

A few hundred yards away in a sheltered exhibit area, a Japanese family snaps pictures of Rosie Tsosie from Teas Toh, whose fry bread, a traditional Navajo delicacy, has just been awarded a culinary blue ribbon.

Each year increasing numbers of people show up for this fair, some from remote Navajo villages like Lukachukai and Nazlini. Although only about 15 percent of the estimated 150,000 attendees are non-Indian, the event is catching on with travelers from across the nation and around the world. It also draws heavily

THE NAVAJO PEOPLE

SEEM MOST DRAWN TO

THE TRADITIONAL

PERFORMANCES OF

MEXICO'S FEATHERED

AZTEC DANCERS, ZUNI

OLLA MAIDENS, AND

APACHE CROWN DANCERS.

And carnival rides on which Navajo youngsters spend long hours trying to develop whiplash and centrifugal disorientation. Without doubt, the favorite browsing area for non-Indians is the hall where a veritable treasure house of master-fully crafted jewelry and handwoven Navajo rugs is displayed. Veronica John's magnificent storm-patterned rug, recipient of last year's President's Award, drew gasps of admiration from many visitors.

Of course, everybody loves the big Saturday morning parade, a twohour pageant of music and color that starts across the border in New Mexico and winds for more than two hours to, and through, Window Rock and on to the highway junction where Navajo Route 12 heads south to Interstate 40. The Navajo people seem most drawn to the fair's nightly entertainment, which offers the engaging disparity of a Charlie

WHEN YOU GO: NAVAJO NATION FAIR

The fair is scheduled for September 913, and admission will be less than $5. Getting there: To reach Window Rock from Phoenix, drive north on Interstate 17 to Flagstaff. Then head east on Interstate 40 to Lupton. Turn north on Navajo Route 12. Window Rock is two miles east of the intersection of Route 12 and State Route 264. Total distance from Phoenix is 285 miles.

Nearby attractions: A trip to Window Rock also puts tourists in close proximity to the Petrified Forest National Park on Interstate 40, 26 miles east of Holbrook; Canyon de Chelly National Monument, 70 miles north of Window Rock; and the Hopi Mesas, 65 miles west of Window Rock on State Route 264.

Weather: Early September is still shirtsleeve weather on the Navajo reservation, but evenings can turn chilly. Bring a sweater and jacket, and don't be surprised if afternoon thundershowers occur.

Where to stay: The Navajo Nation Inn in Window Rock provides comfortable rooms and a restaurant. However, you should make reservations as far in advance as possible. Holbrook, 92 miles southwest of Window Rock on Interstate 40, offers numerous motels with a wide range of prices. Free campground and RV parking is available in the Window Rock area. For more information, contact the Navajo Nation Department of Tourism, (602) 871-6436.

Daniels country-western concert and the traditional performances of Mexico's feathered Aztec Dancers, Zuni Olla Maidens, and Apache Crown Dancers. It is during these activities that the "Star Spangled Banner" is sung in Navajo, and a new Miss Navajo Nation is crowned.

By Sunday afternoon, the last day of the fair, the participants and visitors are beginning to depart. Warren Redfox, a Cheyenne and the rodeo's all-around champion, heads out north to Montana pulling a new horse trailer, only one of his awards for outstanding performances. Christianna Williams, the new Navajo Nation Pow-Wow Princess, returns to her home in Shiprock, New Mexico, where she will prepare for a year of Canadian and U.S. tours. And the European lady in the flowered dress will cross the Atlantic to pass the word on how "wonderful" it is to be "surrounded" by Indians at the Navajo Nation Fair.

Open a window to Arizona's spectacular beauty with the Arizona Highways 1993 Wall Calendar. With each passing month you'll turn the page to a new full-color 9 by 12 inch photograph of a beautiful Arizona landscape accompanied by a calendar with large, readable type. Holidays and phases of the moon are identified, and there's plenty of room for your notes and appointments.

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TRAVEL WITH THE FRIENDS OF ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

Whether you are a point-and-shoot photographer, a serious amateur, or just someone who wants to experience Arizona in a unique way, the Friends of Arizona Highways auxiliary has a trip for you. Excursions include twoto six-day Photo Tours, led by our free-lance photographers and technical representatives (from Kodak or Nikon), and twoto five-day Scenic Tours of the state's most spectacular locales with premier contributing photographer Ray Manley.

Photo Tours

Ancient Ruins-Distant Drums: August 2831: In the mornings, join Theresa and Gordon Whelpley on an exploration of Canyon de Chelly's prehistoric ruins and awesome geologic wonders, and in the afternoons and evenings head for the Native American powwow festivities at Chinle.

Monument Valley; September 23-26: Larry and Donna Ulrich will show you how to capture on film the sculptured wonders of this famed valley in Navajoland. (See second trip below.) Autumn in the White Mountains; October 8-10: Enjoy the beautiful high country of eastern Arizona with Dale Schicketanz, viewing waterfalls, endless forests of pine, sparkling lakes, and the delicate aspen trees as they change into fall dress.

Canyon de Chelly; October 22-25: Jay Dusard will lead you to view and photograph the imposing canyon with its credible geologic formations and prehistoric ruins.

Monument Valley; October 22-25: Travel with Gary Ladd to the sculpted valley where otherworldly shapes abound. (See first trip above.) Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon; November 5-8: Bob and Sue Clemenz take you to all the best spots to experience and photograph Sedona's soaring red rocks and the rich fall colors along bubbling Oak Creek.

Scenic Tours with Ray Manley Canyon de Chelly/Monument Valley; October 26-30: See ancient cliff dwellings at Canyon de Chelly, accompanied by a Navajo guide, and observe the impressive geologic wonders of Monument Valley. For information and to make reservations, telephone the Friends of Arizona Highways Travel Desk, (602) 271-5904.