Travel

DREAM TRACKS OTHE VERDE

A train is a kid's dream, a sightseer's dream, a poet's dream. This we all know. We never would have guessed this, though: a train is a musician's dream.

Ken Mikell, whose business card bills him as "Storysinger - Folkteller," strikes an anticipatory chord on his 1920 Gibson mandolin and begins to recite an old cowboy poem titled "Liquor and Longevity."

We're in the first-class car, the train is about to move, and the first glasses of champagne are being poured. Mikell uses the poem to assuage any latent guilt we might have about imbibing: "A horse and mule live thirty years, and nothing know of wine or beers. A cow drinks water by the ton; twenty years and then they're done."

The champagne flows, the train creaks forward. Mikell rolls through the animal kingdom, documenting in iambic tetrameter the dreadfully short lives of teetotaling dogs, cats, chickens, and so on, then concludes, reassuringly: "All animals are strictly dry; they sinless live and blameless die. But sinful, ginful, rum-soaked men survive a full threescore and ten."

The poem primes us for a good time, as does the champagne. But these are only fringe benefits of this excursion on the Arizona Central Railroad. For the next four hours we will stare through the train windows at a more potent intoxicant: the Verde River Canyon, a wild and near-pristine ecosystem abundant in bald eagles, great blue herons, deer, javelinas . . . and, for the unreconstructed dreamers among us, more evidence that the train is the only real way to fly.

DREAM TRACKS

This wonderfully isolated nearly 40-mile ribbon of rail dates from 1911, when copper mining was the lifeblood of the Verde River Valley. The United Verde Copper Company was building a new smelter and open-pit mine three miles downslope from the mountainside mining town of Jerome, and it needed an improved railroad to haul supplies in and copper out. (The old narrow-gauge track, which climbed over 7,743-foot Mingus Mountain, featured 168 curves and switchbacks in one 13-mile stretch.).

The new and much less kinky Arizona Central hugged the west side of the Verde River Canyon, linking the new company town of Clarkdale with the whistle-stop at Drake. There the standard-gauge train could be shifted to a main track on the Santa Fe line, and the copper steamed away to market.

The canyon railroad was all business at first, but it evolved into a line known locally as the "Verde Mix" because it carried a mix of freight, mail, passengers, and, occasionally, the private Pullman Palace of mining magnate and U.S. Senator William A. Clark. The train would leave Clarkdale every morning promptly at 8:40, but from then on it was a remarkably casual operation, as much taxi service as railroad.

In 1949 its longtime conductor, Pearl Turner, told an Arizona Highways reporter, "Sure, we'll drop you off at Sycamore [Canyon], or anyplace you want to get off. Pick you up on the return trip any day you want to come out. Just have your stuff alongside the track where the engineer can see it. He'll stop."

James W. Byrkit, a Northern Arizona University professor who grew up in Clarkdale, recalls that he and his juniorhigh buddies took the Verde Mix to go camping.

"We used to ride it to Sycamore Canyon," he says. "The train would let us off at the Packard Ranch, then we'd hike up the canyon two or three miles, make camp, swim, smoke dried grapevine, and generally horse around. A couple days later, we'd walk out and stand by the track, and the train would pick us up. The fare was 65 cents."

Clarkdale's copper era ended with the closing of the last mine and the smelter in 1952. Unlike many short-run rail lines, however, the Arizona Central soldiered on, hauling coal daily from Drake to a Clarkdale cement plant. Then in 1989 The Western Group of Ogden, Utah, bought the one-track, one-use line. The first time that owner Dave Durbano rode the train, he knew it could do more than just haul freight: for a coal run, this was mighty scenic.

We chug away from the station, which consists, essentially, of a wooden caboose reincarnated as the railroad's office. Mikell puts away the mandolin, straps on his lovely Martin OM-21 guitar, and launches into the first of a long string of cowboy and folk songs. They're all about longhorns, rancheros, romance, rattlesnakes, and drinkin' - but not, oddly, about railroads.

Mikell, the regular entertainer on the daily 40-mile round-trip Verde run from Clarkdale to Perkinsville, sighs wistfully. "I started lookin' for railroad songs. There's a lot of 'em out there, but they don't like me to sing about train wrecks and you'd be surprised how many that eliminates."

Not that there's much threat of that here. The train rattles through the canyon at an average speed of 12 miles an hour, and there are no roads, no crossings, no other train traffic in the canyon. There is one heart-stopping trestle, however, which soars 175 feet above the river flowing through S O B Canyon, which trainmaster Kelley Kishpaugh tells us stands for "Sweet Old Bill."

Sure it does. The real story is that back in 1911, word got out that spanning this canyon appeared to be such an engineering nightmare that everybody in the United Verde eventually wandered out to see it, including Senator Clark, the owner. Reportedly he offered these words of encouragement: "It's an SOB, all right."

The train passes a riparian forest of gargantuan cottonwoods, many with canopies 50 feet across. It curls around the base of a mesa, where a small thousandyear-old Sinagua ruin lies nearly concealed in a sandstone nook high above the river. It's so subtly integrated into the canyon's natural architecture that none of us would have noticed it without help.

Paul Ash, excursion guide and occasional train bartender, has explored the canyon thoroughly on foot, and he's found "all kinds" of undocumented ruins and even petroglyphs - and no, he isn't saying where. He prays that the canyon will remain as nearly undisturbed as it is today. "I'm out here on the trails on most of my days off," he says. "I really love this canyon. And I never see anyone." The Sinagua probably departed by A.D. 1400, as they did from all their settlements in the Verde Valley to the east. In more recent times, only two families have come to stay: the Astons and the Alvarezes. Both maintain isolated riverside ranches. The Alvarezes, who have been here since 1910 and have raised four generations in their ranch house, still refuse the luxury of electricity. It is apparently an invigorating life. "A few days ago, we saw Mrs. Alvarez digging an irrigation ditch," says Ash. "I understand she's 82." The train rumbles into the inner canyon, where craggy rufous sandstone walls tower as much as 700 feet over the river. This is the best time, say the excursion guides, for passengers to leave the comfort of the enclosed cars and stand out on the gondolas, where, even if it's chilly, we can observe the canyon's geology and wildlife almost as intimately as if we were on foot.

DREAM TRACKS.

One study estimates that between 50 and 75 bald eagles winter in the canyon; an Audubon group on the train, we're told, spotted 16 just yesterday. Usually they're seen soaring high above, but some excursionists have seen them skimming the river with a fresh lunch - a snake or a fishlocked in their talons. Today we view a mere handful of eagles, but, near the end of the line, the airspace over the river practically clots with a flock of great blue herons, their cerulean-gray wings beating in deliberate, majestic rhythms. Their wingspreads measure five to seven feet. A quarter of a mile away, silhouetted in the afternoon sun, are dozens of the statuesque birds camping in their rookery, a grove of winterbare cottonwoods.On other days, alert excursionists have reported spotting javelinas, beavers, river otters, mountain lions, bobcats, black bears, foxes, and wild turkeys. The Verde's riparian ecosystem also supports numerous rare or endangered species that are not likely to be seen from the train, including the red bat, lowland leopard frog, and peregrine falcon. The fact that Homo sapiens is the rarest resident species surely accounts for the presence of all the others.

This is why a once-a-day train through the canyon is far preferable, ecologically, to a road. No bottles get dumped trackside, no crowds surge through the canyon to pollute the river, disturb nests, or set forests on fire. As Arizona Central employees explain, they're not trying to recreate an era of rail travel; they're simplyoffering a way for visitors to see an extraordinary scenic area and do it with minimal environmental impact. Intended or not, a vanished era of travel is recalled here, one of grace, leisure, and conviviality.

There is something ineffably reassuring and fulfilling about trains, something more than simple nostalgia. Wrote Thoreau, "I am refreshed and expanded when the freight train rattles past me." A century later, E.B. White, that most cherished of American essayists, added: "A train on its leisurely course often reminds me of a small boy who has been sent on an errand; the train gets there eventually, and so does the boy, but after what adventures, what fruitful dawdling!

White surely would have appreciated the 12-mile-an-hour dawdle of the Arizona Central. This civilized and fruitful pace in itself seems to have a positive effect on the staff and excursionists alike. The mood on board is utterly relaxed and sunny.

Someone asks Mikell what's the industry around here, now that the mines are defunct. "None, thank God," he replies, and even though this comes in a period following a lingering recession, the answer somehow seems agreeable enough. The same exchange on a jet airplane plowing through the stratosphere at 550 miles an hour would seem absurd.

There is, of course, this industry, the excursion train itself. Sales taxes on the tickets have become tiny Clarkdale's biggest source of revenue, and there's work, out of nowhere, for an unemployed actor and

DREAM TRACKS.

Singer like Mikell. “A train like this is a musician's dream,” he says. “Steady work, close to home, a beautiful stretch of country, good people to perform for.” Few of us would miss bus travel if it were to become obsolete; nobody entertains romantic thoughts about airport terminals. Somehow, trains are different. Instead of rendering their passengers tired and surly, trains fill us with a sense of adventure and wonderment about the world slowly passing in review outside, whether it's the backyards of a city or the back reaches of a little-known river canyon.

NAU's Byrkit, who recently rode the Arizona Central for the first time since the 1940s, explains it about as well as anyone ever has: “Somehow, the railroad brings out the kid in all of us.” MGetting there: Clarkdale, a well-groomed and quiet town (population 2,144) is 15 miles northwest of Interstate 17 on U.S. Route 89A, about 100 miles from Phoenix. There are no accommodations in Clarkdale, so visitors should plan to stay either in Cottonwood or Sedona, respectively five and 25 miles away. Chambers of commerce in either town will provide information: Cottonwood, (602) 634-7593; Sedona, (602) 282-7722. The Arizona Central also operates the Railroad Inn at Sedona, offering ride/room packages.

WHEN YOU GO.

Train tips: Reservations are recommended but not always essential; call the Arizona Central Railroad at (602) 6390010 or write to P.O. Box 103, Clarkdale, AZ 86324. September through November, departures are at 1:00P.M. Wednesday through Sunday. The schedule varies the rest of the year. Rates range from $13.95 for children in coach to $39.95 for adults in first class. Group rates (minimum 20 persons) are available.

What else to see: Jerome, a Victorian mining town turned funky artists' colony, is only three miles from Clarkdale and unquestionably worth a visit. Also nearby are Dead Horse Ranch State Park (camping, fishing), Jerome State Historical Park (mining museum), Fort Verde State Park (museum), Sycamore Canyon (hiking, camping), and Tuzigoot and Montezuma Castle national monuments (Sinagua ruins).

TRAVEL WITH THE FRIENDS OF ARIZONA HIGHWAYS PHOTO WORKSHOPS EXPANDED FOR 1993

The overwhelming popularity of the Photo Workshops persuaded the Friends of Arizona Highways auxiliary to increase the trips from 17 this year to nearly two dozen in 1993. Led by the magazine's premier photographers and experts from Kodak and Nikon, the Photo Workshops provide shutterbugs of all skill levels with tips on everything from improving picture composition to taking advantage of light. All that plus exploring some of the most spectacular scenery in the state! Here's a partial list of next year's trips. For a complete schedule and to make reservations, contact the Friends' Travel Desk, 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85014; (602) 271-5904.

1993 PHOTO WORKSHOPS

Canyon de Chelly/Monument Valley; January 13-17 and February 2-6: Focus on ancient Indian ruins and impressive rock pinnacles. Tour leaders: Gordon and Theresa Whelpley (first trip), Michael Collier (second).

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument; March 25-27: The many-armed cactus and rare desert plants flourish here. Tour leader: Jerry Sieve.

Lake Powell; April 20-24: Explore the lake with more shoreline than the Atlantic Coast from Maine to the tip of Florida. Tour leader: Gary Ladd.

Slot Canyons/Vermilion Cliffs; May 5-8: Narrow rock passages and sheer multihued cliffs offer visitors mystery and stark drama in a stunning landscape. Tour leader: Michael Fatali.

Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon; May 13-16: Explore the soaring red rocks and bubbling Oak Creek. Tour leader: Peter Mortimer.

Paria Canyon Hike; May 19-23 and May 26-30: Backpack into the wild canyon in far northern Arizona. Tour leaders: Jack Dykinga (first trip), Gary Ladd (second).

Monument Valley; June 2-5: Marvel at the rock sculptures seen in many Western films. Tour leader: Jerry Sieve.

Prescott Rodeo; July 2-5: Cowboy contests in the arena vie with the scenic countryside for attention. Tour leaders: Jeff Kida and Ken Akers.

Arrangements and prices are subject to change without notice. Also, occasional cancellation of tours may occur due to lack of reservations.

THE FINEST IN HOLIDAY GREETINGS FROM ARIZONA HIGHWAYS 1992 CLASSIC CHRISTMAS CARDS 1992 CHRISTMAS CARDS

1992 CLASSIC CHRISTMAS CARDS Delight your friends, family, and business associates with the beauty and elegance of these impressive cards. Each box contains 20 5-1/4 by 7-7/8 inch folded cards (same image) and 21 envelopes. $14.95 per box.

A. Snow-frosted saguaros in the Tucson Mountains. Message: "Best Wishes for a Happy Holiday Season" #CCSS2 B. Snowy White Mountain sunrise. Message: "Peace on Earth" #CCSP2 C. Mission San Xavier del Bac, Tucson. Message: "Let Every Heart Rejoice" #CCXM2 D. Christmas Hollies by Ted DeGrazia. Message: "May the Spirit of the Season Last Throughout the Year" #CCDG2

1992 CHRISTMAS CARDS

Send the warmth and wonder of the holidays Arizona-style with these scenic Christmas cards. Each box contains 20 4-1/2 by 6-1/4 inch folded cards (same image) and 21 envelopes. $7.95 per box.

E. Grand Canyon in winter from Mohave Point. Message: "Holiday Greetings and Best Wishes for the New Year" #XGCP2 F. Sunrise silhouettes the Mittens, Monument Valley. Message: "Season's Greetings" #XSMV2 G. San Francisco Peaks near Flagstaff. Message: "Merry Christmas and a Joyous New Year" #XSFP2 H. Festive saguaro sunset, Phoenix. Message: "Joy to the World" #XCLS2 Order holiday cards through the attached card, or write or visit Arizona Highways, 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85009. You can order by telephone toll-free 1-800-543-5432. In the Phoenix area, call 258-1000.