Travel

GRAVEYARD OF THE

A dozen elephants lumbered down the slope to the water hole, picking their way through the dense grass. Occasionally, their leader, a huge male with long slender tusks and a shaggy coat, would stop, raise its trunk to test the air for the scent of enemies, then plunge ahead toward the spit of sticky reddish-brown clay that led to the stream. Alert though it was, the beast failed to detect the hunters who huddled among the clumps of grass. Dressed roughly inskins, they held crude spears in front of them, ready to charge. As soon as the massive animals bogged down in the mud, the hunters sprang up, shouting excitedly. Concentrating on one of the younger elephants, they thrust their spears into its soft underbelly.

A memory from deepest darkest Africa, where the Bushmen and Hottentots once roamed and hunted freely? Hardly.

This scene, or one like it, was enacted many times in southeastern Arizona, according to what scientists have reconstructed from recent archeological digs. The period was 12,000 years ago, and the elephants actually were mammoths, prehistoric brutes that stood nearly 14 feet high at the shoulder.

At this water hole, now called Mammoth Kill Creek, evidence shows that primitive hunters also ambushed bison, tapirs, bears, and wolves, as well as American lions, which were cousins of the saber-toothed tiger.

In fact, this ancient watering place, located in an arroyo just 15 miles from both Bisbee and Sierra Vista, contains one of the largest assortments of extinct animals ever found.

The story of this remarkable discovery began decades ago when Ed Lehner, who had fallen in love with Arizona as a teenage visitor in 1932, bought a piece of land flanked by the Huachuca and Mule mountains, two miles south of rural Hereford. It was an old homestead whose original deed had been signed by President Taft.

In the spring of 1952, while wandering among the love grass and mesquite about 300 feet from the old house, Lehner was drawn to a deep arroyo where water had eroded a high bank, exposing stratified layers of soil. Beneath a particularly dark layer, about eight feet below the surface of the bank, some bones were protruding. With his mind racing and his heart pounding, he bent over the dark layer and delicately removed some of the fragments. To an uninitiated person, the bone fragments might not have seemed significant. But Ed Lehner, a stocky man with a quick wit and a ready smile, was no neophyte to the world of archeology.

"I always used to prowl Indian ruins and museums," he says. And he admits that his favorite spot in New York City, where he spent most of his youth, was the Museum of Natural History. He suspected the bones might be those of some extinct animal. “I was pretty sure one of them was the tooth plate of a mammoth,” he says, the original excitement still lingering in his voice.

Lehner took the bones to the Arizona State Museum in Tucson where they were examined by Dr. Emil Haury, a University of Arizona archeologist who had excavated mammoth bones at a site in Naco, 12 miles southeast of Lehner's arroyo. Haury confirmed Lehner's opinion: the bones and tooth plate he had found were indeed those of a mammoth that had roamed the area some 12,000 years ago. Though excited at the find, Lehner and Haury did not realize the magnitude of the discovery until three years later.

During a particularly heavy summer storm in 1955, five inches of rain fell in six hours, and the water surged violently through the arroyo. Unable to do anything else, Lehner waited apprehensively for four long days then hurried out to investigate.

The flash flood had exposed a layer 50 feet long where animal remains could clearly be seen. It became apparent this was a significant find. In December of that year, a group of University of Arizona scientists launched a major exploratory excavation.

Soon after the digging began, the scientists got another surprise. Two spear points appeared among the rib fragments of a mammoth, along with some flecks of charcoal in the surrounding soil. Analyzing the charcoal allowed scientists to determine that man and mammoth existed 12 millennia ago in Arizona, and that man engaged in elephant hunting. “The discovery gave us proof beyond a doubt,” says Haury.

By the time the second phase of digging finished in 1956, the bones of at least nine mammoths, a tapir, a bison, and a horse were recovered. In addition, 13 spear points, a few of which were chipped from clear quartz crystal, were unearthed, along with eight tools used for cutting and chopping meat and scraping hides.

In addition, two hearths were found in the same location: beds of charcoal where the prehistoric hunters cooked, ate, and preserved the harvest of their ambushes.

News of these discoveries brought inquiries not only from across America, but also from Europe, Australia, China, and Japan. Lehner says that at times there were so many languages spoken on his ranch it sounded like the United Nations.

One visitor Lehner particularly remembers was Dr. Kenneth P. Oakley, who gained international fame by exposing the hoax of the Piltdown Man in England in 1950. “He looked like Abe Lincoln with a British accent,” says Lehner, chuckling. Other digs followed, including a 1974-75 excavation at Murray Springs, 10 miles north of the Lehner site. Led by Dr. Vance Haynes of the University of Arizona and funded by the National Geographic Society, this expedition turned up evidence of three mammoths, plus lions, camels, bears, and three types of wolves. The Lehner property at times resembled a military camp as researchers set up their excavation operations, and scholars, graduate students, and interested visitors flocked into the isolated site. Lehner's wife, Lynn, remembers looking Out the window of their home and seeing the rows of pup tents the graduate assistants lived in while they helped with the work. The Lehners themselves became a vital part of the projects. “They were perfect hosts to the miscellaneous ‘ologists’ and to the hundreds of visitors who descended upon them,” said one University of Arizona report on the site. “They found time to assist with the digging, to provide refreshments for the excavation crew, and to perform a variety of other services and courtesies. From the beginning, Lehner manifested an acute comprehension of the more involved problems of excavation, analysis, and interpretation.” The involvement of Ed Lehner, who retired as an ecologist with the Phelps Once roamed by prehistoric beasts, Ed Lehner's ranch lies east of the Huachuca Mountains (PRECEDING PANEL, PAGES 38 AND 39) in the southeastern part of the state. A steep climb in the range leads to scenic vistas and a memorial honoring Coronado's 16th-century exploration of the area. (ABOVE) The San Pedro River, which flows through Lehner's property, is believed by some to be the stream Coronado's expedition called the Rio Nexpа.

The area in which Lehner settled proved a treasure trove for scientists. (CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE) A bone from a prehistoric animal protrudes from an excavation trench on the ranch. Lehner holds a replica of a spear point found at the site. The original is displayed at the Arizona State Museum in Tucson. Geologist Fred Cropp, left, and Lehner check an excavation trench. A mammoth tooth indicates the size of the prehistoric beast. An excavation at Murray Springs near Lehner's ranch also yielded ancient tools as well as animal bones.

Dodge Corporation, a copper-mining company, was recognized in 1967 when the site was designated a national historic landmark and named the Lehner Mammoth Kill Site.

Three years ago, the Lehners donated six acres containing the site to the Bureau of Land Management, and it has become part of the San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area, land set aside for the preservation of river flora and fauna.

A team of Russian anthropologists visited the site in June of 1991. Last March a group of university students led by the UofA's Dr. Haynes uncovered more bison bones and stone artifacts in a site just north of the original dig.

Since then things have been relatively quiet on the Lehner ranch. Ed, 77, and Lynn, 72, relax in their comfortable home, surrounded by mementos of the remarkable harvest yielded by their land. One of the most prominent is a bronze statue depicting a long-ago mammoth hunt in their backyard. (It was created by sculptor Don Cox, who once babysat for the Lehner

children and now practices his art in Bisbee.)

From their living room, the Lehners can see the Goodding willows and cottonwoods that mark the present channel of the San Pedro River, set against the background of the modest peaks of the Mule Mountains. Early each morning and again around sunset, a half-dozen or so javelinas wander up onto the Lehners' patio.

But it isn't always so peaceful. Graduate seminars are often held at the site, and the Lehners still receive hundreds of visitors, attracted by the romance of prehistoric man and beasts. Busloads of schoolchildren arrive to scurry around the arroyo, picturing themselves with spear in hand, confronting a huge beast with a trunk and long slender tusks.

Some visitors, Lehner says, have been coming for 20 years, and a few are the children of some of those earlier callers. As the kids pour out of the yellow buses, chattering and looking around expectantly, the Lehners' dog, Lady, bounds up to them, wagging its entire body. Lehner jokes with the kids, and both he and his wife patiently answer questions.

When the visitors leave, the Lehners retire to their home, amidst the bones, the mementos, and the quiet spell of primitive man and animals. They are content that their efforts have shed light on history and provided knowledge, pleasure, and excitement to so many.

One of their greatest delights is reading the letters sent to them over the years by the schoolchildren who have visited the Lehner Mammoth Kill Site. One of them reads: "Dear Mr. Lehner, Thank you for letting us come to the Lehner Ranch. I really had a grat time. I liked your dog I thought she was cute. The Bast Part of the trip was the digging part. I hop I can com viset agen some time.

Your friend, Patrick Cooley"

WHEN YOU GO

From Sierra Vista, take State Route 92 south and east to Palominas (19 miles), then turn north (left) onto Palominas Road. The Lehner Ranch is 2.8 miles farther on the right. From Bisbee, take State 92 southwest to Palominas Road and turn right after 2.8 miles.

Both Sierra Vista and Bisbee have motels and

restaurants. For more information, telephone Ed

Lehner at (602) 366-5554.

The Friends of Arizona Highways offers Photo Workshops to the state's scenic wonders for picture takers of all skill levels. Our premier photographers lead the tours and are assisted by experts from Kodak and Nikon. Scenic Tours are also available.

PHOTO WORKSHOPS

Canyon de Chelly/Monument Valley; January 13-17 and February 2-6 Focus on ancient Indian ruins and impressive rock pinnacles. Photographers: Gordon and Theresa Whelpley (first trip) and Michael Collier (second).

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument; March 25-27 See the many-armed cactus, rare desert plants, and wildflowers. Photographer: Jerry Sieve.

Lake Powell; April 20-24 Explore the lake with more shoreline than the Atlantic Coast from Maine to the tip of Florida. Photographer: Gary Ladd.

Slot Canyons/Vermilion Cliffs; May 5-8 Narrow rock passages and sheer multihued cliffs provide stark drama. Photographer: Michael Fatali.

Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon; May 13-16 Explore the soaring red rocks and bubbling Oak Creek. Photographer: Peter Mortimer.

Paria Canyon Hike; May 19-23 and May 26-30 Backpack into the wild canyon in far northern Arizona. Photographer: Jack

TRAVEL WITH THE FRIENDS OF ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

Hiking (first trip), Gary Ladd (second). Monument Valley; June 2-5 Marvel at the rock sculptures seen in many Western films. Photographer: Jerry Sieve.

FRIENDS SCENIC TOURS

Paria Canyon; May 6-11 Hike through miles of sand in the rugged canyon in far northern Arizona.

Canyonland Tour; May 11-15 and October 7-10 Visit the Grand Canyon, Oak Creek Canyon, Walnut Canyon.

Keet Seel; June 4-7 Explore one of the Southwest's best-preserved cliff dwellings on this hike.

SCENIC TOURS WITH RAY MANLEY

Led by a premier Arizona Highways contributing photographer, these trips are organized primarily for mature adults.

Lake Powell; March 23-26 A highlight of this trip, which includes stops at Prescott, Sedona, and Flagstaff, is a Lake Powell cruise to Rainbow Bridge.

Canyon de Chelly/Monument Valley; May 3-7 and October 25-29 See otherworldly rock formations and prehistoric dwellings in Navajo country.

Parade of Lights; December 3-6 Celebrate with visits to Prescott, Jerome, Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon, the Grand Canyon, Lake Powell, and Rainbow Bridge.

For information and to make reservations, call the Friends' Travel Desk, (602) 271-5904.

TIMELESS IMAGES FROM ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

With contributions from some of the world's best nature photographers, Arizona Highways has been devoted to sharing the state's timeless beauty for 67 years.

Now many of their photographs are captured in a stunning book, Timeless Images from Arizona Highways. A large 10 inches by 13 inches, this collection offers 126 full-color and black-and-white images that affirm Arizona's beauty. Included are rare color photographs by Ansel Adams. The 176-page, hardcover edition of Timeless Images is $39.95, plus shipping and handling. Order through the attached order card, or write or visit Arizona Highways, 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85009. You can place telephone orders by calling toll-free nationwide 1 (800) 543-5432. In Phoenix, call 258-1000.

TIMELESS m a g e s FROM ARIZONA HIGHWAYS Mileposts

For decades thousands of native and exotic trees and plants have thrived on Arizona State University's 750-plus-acre campus in Tempe. The state's sixth arboretum and an outdoor laboratory for faculty and students, the lush oasis is open to the public daily. Here visitors can see the largest collection of palms in Arizona, cork oaks, a rare crested saguaro, a soap tree, more than a dozen varieties of fruit trees, and more — all identified with signs. A free pamphlet with a campus map and self-guided walking tours is available at the ASU Information Center (Rural Road and Apache Boulevard) and at the campus bookstore. For more information, telephone the center at (602) 965-0100.

One of the largest light displays in the country will bring the magic of Christmas to Sedona's Los Abrigados resort November 27 to January 16, and you needn't be a guest to enjoy "Red Rock Fantasy." Anyone with the holiday spirit - or in need of it can stroll the grounds of the posh resort, where more than 500,000 lights will glitter in 30 displays featuring traditional, Southwestern, religious, comedy, and animated themes. There's no charge for viewing. Pick up a walking-tour map in the hotel lobby and ask about other activities, including caroling in a horse-drawn wagon and visits to an enchanting gingerbread house. For additional information, contact Los Abrigados toll-free at 1 (800) 521-3131. (If you plan your visit for Saturday, December 12, slip over to Tlaquepaque, adjacent to Los Abrigados, to see its spectacular luminarias. For details, call Sedona Chamber of Commerce, (602) 282-7722.) A three-year search by an unusual group of "detectives" under the banner of the Arizona Quilt Project has yielded a colorful patchwork of folk history, a lavish book on quilting, and a traveling quilt exhibit.

Many quilts made by pioneer women in Arizona were used and loved; some became family heirlooms; others were hidden away in closets. All were treasures waiting to be found.

And found they were, some 3,000 quilts pieced together from the mid-1800s to 1940, a homey reminder of life on the frontier and a colorful link between today and yesterday.

Some of the most historically significant quilts are featured in the new book, Grand Endeavors: Vintage Arizona Quilts & Their Makers ($29.95; Northland Publishing, Flagstaff, AZ, 1 (800) 346-3257), which was written by Pam Stevenson and Helen Frost, members of the sleuthing group. A selection of quilts from the book can be seen in an exhibit that will run November 8 through January 3 at the Nel-nson Fine Arts Center, (602) 965-2787, in Tempe; then Jan-uary 15 through March 21 at the Arizona Historical Society Museum, (602) 628-5774, in Tucson.

EVENTS WESTERN MUSIC FESTIVAL

November 12-15; Tucson The Tucson Holiday Inn Holidome and Old Tucson Studios will host this third annual salute to Western music. The event features daytime workshops and performances and nighttime celebrity concerts that in the past have headlined the likes of Rex Allen, Sr., the Sons of the Pioneers, and Tom and Becki Chambers. Call for schedule details and admission prices. Information: 323-3311.

EMMETT KELLY, JR. DAYS

November 13-15; Tombstone The second generation of the famous clown family lives in "the town too tough to die," and that's why they throw this annual celebration. The long weekend's activities include a clown fashion show, a clown contest (there's an entry fee), face painting, games, live entertainment, and a parade. Free admission. Information: 457-2211.

HOT-AIR BALLOON SHOW

November 14-15; Glendale The Thunderbird Balloon Classic & Airshow (at the Glendale Airport) is the biggest ballooning event in Arizona, and it's a lot more than hot air: in addition to 125 balloons and a spectacular after-dark balloon glow, there'll also be a big (three and a half hours) air show featuring aerobatics and wing walking, a street dance, stage entertainment, kids' activities, and food booths. Admission is $5 in advance, $6 at the gate. Information: 9787208.

CHRISTMAS PARADE

November 21; Winslow Between Meteor Crater and Petrified Forest National Park, 184 miles northeast of Phoenix, lies Winslow, site of "the largest Christmas parade in Arizona." The afternoon procession has the usual floats, horses, and bands, plus Indian dancers and, of course, the jolly old elf himself. There also will be arts-and-crafts vendors along the parade route. No admission charge. Information: 289-2434.

HI JOLLY DAZE

November 21; Quartzsite A parade, a barbecue, a dance, and other down-home fun highlight this annual fair celebrating Hadji Ali, one of the camel drivers brought in by the Army when it imported a bunch of the hump-backed beasts in the 1850s to serve as pack animals in the Southwestern desert. Call ahead to ask about accommodations. Quartzsite's regular population swells from about 1,800 to nearly 1 million in the winter, thanks to visitors drawn by the climate and big gem-and-mineral shows. Fair admission is free. Information: 927-5600.

INTERNATIONAL CHRISTMAS

November 29-January 1; Phoenix Amble through the indoor concourse of downtown's Valley Bank Center (201 N. Central Ave., daily 8:00 Α.Μ.-9:00 Ρ.Μ.) to enjoy an ethnic doll display and a forest of Christmas trees decorated with an international flair. Call for information about special events, including choral concerts and projects for kids. Free admission. Information: 221-1005.