An Interlude at Oak Creek

Oak Creek Interlude

visit their grandfather, who, like TJ's dad, is a wrangler in Sedona.

Over lunch, TJ had discovered a rhinoceros beetle the size of his thumb. Its furred underside tickled his skin as the creature scurried up his arm. Lisa and Kristen squirmed at the sight, but TJ was unimpressed. "I've held bigger ones than this," he said, shrugging.

When some local kids learned that this was TJ's first visit to Sedona, they started telling him stories about Oak Creek tales of rope swings and swimming holes that no kid could resist. "Life here revolves around the creek," the oldest one had declared. The others insisted, "You've gotta see our creek."

TJ had thought he probably ought to wait at the stables, hang out around the horses until his dad got back from driving the hayride. But that creek did sound tempting, and Mike Baker, a wrangler at the stables, was all set to drive them out.

The air was fine as TJ, Lisa, and Kristen piled into the cherry-red jeep with Mike and jolted over a rocky trail toward Oak Creek. The sun had broken through the day's early gray overcast, magically turning the brick-colored earth into red flame. TJ wriggled out of his jacket as deftly as a snake shedding its skin, while the trail climbed a steep ridge. He stared at the ocotillos raising hairy arms skyward, like giant upside-down spiders.

When the jeep stopped, TJ and the others got out and touched the ocotillos, which they'd heard called "Mexican barbed-wire." Later a wrangler would teach TJ how to peel a yucca spine to make string the way the Indians used to do. But now TJ had more important things on his mind. He rubbed the leather sheath of his big knife and peered into a jumble of rocks, hoping to find a lizard. But none obliged.

WHEN YOU GO

At last the jeep twisted down a steep trail and passed under a lacy canopy of sycamore branches filtering patches of blue sky. Beyond the trees, the bubbling of water tumbling over rocks had sounded downright irresistible. Then they arrived at the creek where TJ found his flat rock, perfect for scooping out tadpoles.

It's hard to believe it's almost time to leave Sedona, especially this wonderful spot on Oak Creek, TJ thinks. But his dad will be getting back to the stables in Sedona, and he'll be wondering where his son is. It would be good to come back here he decides do some fishing, sleep under the stars like the riders on the overnight pack trips that come here. TJ yawns complacently, lulled by the sun's radiant warmth. He lingers for just a few more minutes storing memories like the unknown children who lived here long ago memories of a halcyon Indian summer afternoon on a rock by a creek in a canyon undimmed by the passage of years.To read more about Sedona, we recommend Scenic Sedona ($5.95), an Arizona Highways publication that explores the scenery, culture, history, and people of this popular getaway among the red rocks and, as well, looks at dramatic Oak Creek Canyon, historic Verde Valley, and Jerome, one of the state's liveliest "ghost towns." To inquire or place an order, telephone Arizona Highways toll free at 1 (800) 543-5432. In the Phoenix area, call 258-1000.

Travel Guide:

La Mesa, California-based Miriam Raftery considers herself lucky to have discovered Sedona through a child's eyes.

Kateri Weiss has visited Sedona/Oak Creek often, drawn by the solitude, the evidence of ancient civilizations, and an abundance of wild berries.

Getting there: From Phoenix, drive north on Interstate 17 and turn west onto State Route 179. Sedona is approximately 120 miles from Phoenix.

What to see and do in Sedona with kids:

Riding: For children six years of age and older, Kachina Stables, (602) 282-7252; Ρ.O. Box 3616, West Sedona, AZ 86340, offers trail rides ranging from one-hour excursions to all-day pack trips. Reservations recommended. Group hayrides and surrey rides are available for younger children, by advance arrangement. For more information about stables, contact the Sedona/Oak Creek Chamber of Commerce (see below).

Hiking: There are more than 100 hikes within a 40-mile radius of Sedona. A favorite among locals is the West Fork Trail in Oak Creek Canyon, where kids splash in the creek and wander through fern grottos as the steep gorge narrows. Another easy hike is at Red Canyon south of Sedona, where Indian ruins can be seen. For further information and maps of these and other hiking trails in the Coconino National Forest, write the Forest Service at P.O. Box 300, Sedona, AZ 86336 or call (602) 282-4119.

Fishing: There are plenty of secluded fishing holes along Oak Creek. License required. Tackle and bait are provided for $1 per person at Rainbow Trout Farm, where kids pay by the inch for fish they catch, with trout over 20 inches free. Cleaning provided if desired; no license required. Located 3.5 miles north of Sedona on State Route 89A. For more information, call (602) 282-5799.

Swimming: Grasshopper Point, on Oak Creek just north of Sedona on the east side of Route 89A, is a favorite swimming hole.

Jeep tours: Rugged trips are offered by several companies in Sedona. Soldiers' Pass and Broken Arrow are popular destinations, but be prepared for a bumpy ride.

Slide Rock State Park: Older kids won't want to miss the fun of the natural water slide at Oak Creek on State 89A, seven miles north of Sedona. (602) 282-3034.

Red Rock State Park: Opened in 1991, this state park offers visitors a lush riparian habitat that is home to more than 140 species of birds and 400 different plants. Indian petroglyphs are visible on cliffs along the creek. Watch for signs indicating the facilities at the Cottonwood Area. There are five miles of equestrian trails but no camping sites or overnight accommodations. (602) 282-6907.

Other nearby attractions:

Prehistoric Indian ruins can be seen at Tuzigoot National Monument and Montezuma Castle National Monument, both within 35 miles of Sedona. Jerome, 37 miles west of Sedona, was once a copper-mining boomtown and is now a haven for artists and craftsmen. Grand Canyon's South Rim is a two-hour drive north of Sedona.

Accommodations:

Sedona has numerous hotels, motels, bed and breakfast inns, and resorts. Campground facilities are located at Slide Rock State Park, just north of Sedona on State 89A. (There's a cave kids can explore at Cave Springs Campground.) For more information: Write to the Sedona/Oak Creek Chamber of Commerce at P.O. Box 478, Sedona, AZ 86336 or call (602) 282-7722.