TASTE THE OLD SOUTHWEST WITH A TAMALE MAKING PARTY

UNWRAP A SOUTHWESTERN HOLIDAY TRADITION WITH A TAMALE MAKING PARTY

Take 1½ pounds of dried corn husks and remove any silks or dirt; wash and place in a pot of hot water until they are pliable - about 10 minutes.

My HUSBAND, JONATHAN, AND I AND OUR friends John, Tania, and Julie set to work cleaning the husks, which fills the air with a sweet grassy smell. Close at hand is a cooler of Mexican beer to fortify us for our task this December afternoon. It is warm, even for a desert winter, and we are working around the patio table. I remember as a child feeling cheated that Tucson didn't have a "traditional" white Christmas. On Christmas Eve, I would press my face against the living room window and will the immensely black dry desert sky to produce snow. It wasn't until I was 21 that we had a white Christmas, but by then I had stopped trying to embrace traditions that did not belong to me and began to learn more about our rich Southwestern heritage. One way is a "tamales-making" party. In the Southwest, families of Mexican and Indian heritage traditionally make huge quantities of these deliciouscorn-husk-wrapped concoctions that contain corn masa and meat in red-chile sauce. The masa, made from ground white hominy corn, and the outer wrapping of corn husks in which they are steamed comprise the basic ingredients of Southwestern tamales, though in more tropical parts of the Americas banana or other leaves are used. Besides the classic meat and red-chile filling, creative varieties are endless. In spring and fall, green corn tamales are made from fresh hominy corn, squash, chiles, and cheese, and I have enjoyed chickenpineapple-teriyaki and even fruit tamales.

To make the meat filling, take 4 pounds of pork shoulder and boil in 6 cups of water until tender, saving broth for making dough and chile sauce. Dissolve 8 to 10 tablespoons of chile powder in 1½ cups of broth and pour into a large skillet with meat (chopped into ¼-inch pieces) and ½ teaspoon of oregano, ½ teaspoon of cumin, 2 to 3 cloves of garlic (chopped fine), and salt to taste. Cook until almost dry.

Our tamale party moves inside when the late(ABOVE) Author Roseann Hanson, left, her husband, Jonathan, and friends Allison Titcomb and Zan Mauler savor the results of their tamale-making party. (OPPOSITE PAGE) Decorations such as this wreath adorned with chile peppers, corn, and garlic cloves, enhance the festive air of a tamale party. Other accents could include Mexican pottery and a serape for the table. CARLTONS' PHOTOGRAPHIC

TAMALE PARTY

afternoon air turns nippy, and we are ready to prepare the masa; the meat was cooked in the morning and awaits its culinary destiny on the stove. Chile, oregano, and garlic flavor the air with a heavenly aroma that sets our mouths watering.

To make the masa, whip 2 cups of shortening with 2 teaspoons of salt until very fluffy. Add 5 cups of Masa Harina (ground corn masa flour) and 4% cups of cooled meat broth. Beat until light and fluffy, or when small sample floats in cold water.

As I begin whipping the shortening and corn flour with the electric food mixer, John comments that since we're preparing traditional Mexican holiday fare, maybe we should grind and mix the corn the traditional way. Jonathan obliges John by handing him our 20-pound replica of a stone metate, which native people have used for millennia to grind food. Still seated at the table, beer in hand, John wisely declines, and I whir up five cups of corn masa in a few minutes - probably a morning's work the "traditional" way.

The tamal (tamales is plural; "tamale" is the Americanized word for tamal) predates Colombian Mexico, originating with the Aztec and Mayan Indians, historians believe. It is an ingenious use, virtually unchanged from its original state, of the most important of American crops: corn (as well as chile). Hard-skinned hominy corn is left to ripen on its stalk and then dried (it is also used fresh and slightly immature to make such dishes as green corn tamales). Dried kernels, soaked in solutions of corrosive lime until the skins come off, become nixtamal. This in turn is ground to make masa for tamales, tortillas, or other dishes.

To form a tamale, take one large husk, spread 2 tablespoons of masa in the center, and top with a tablespoon of meat. Fold bottom (widest, flat part) up and sides in to overlap at the center, then bring the pointed top down; tie with a narrow strip of husk.

Sounds of frustration drift over from the men's side of the table as we assemble our tamales. Jonathan and John's tamales keep popping back open on the platter, and of course the women show no sympathy. In desperation, Jonathan leaves with his tamales, then returns triumphantly, neat little packets in hand, securely stapled closed.

To cook, stack tamales on a steamer or in a colander, add a few inches of water, and steam for about 40 minutes (check water periodically). Uncooked tamales can be frozen.

We sit around a fire, polishing off the last of the beer and our cooked tamales. Nearby lies a large pile of corn husks like bones from a kill. Cucumber-onion-radish salad with white wine vinaigrette and fresh salsa added festive color to our plates. Other traditional fare includes beans seasoned with pickled jalapeños and, for dessert, Mexican hot chocolate and syrup-covered fried buñuelos (similar to flour tortillas).

We say goodnight to our friends, having divvied up the uncooked tamales for each to take home and freeze. Already we're looking forward to another tasty get-together. Traditionally, Southwestern families might enjoy tamales after returning from Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve; since ancient times corn dishes like tamales have been associated with religious festivals. We will use ours to cook and give in gift baskets or for quick meals during the hectic holidays.

I may once have pined away for Bing Crosby's idea of a "White Christmas," but now I'll take tamales over roasted chestnuts anyday.

Author's Note: Look for bags of dried corn husks and Masa Harina in your supermarket or try a Mexican specialty market. Freshly made masa is often available. Be creative with your fillings; try turkey, fish, olives, cheese, chiles, or fruit and honey. It's fun to serve different kinds at once, so each unwrapping is a surprise. Be patient, assembling tamales takes practice; stapling is definitely not recommended!

Additional Reading: For more south-of-the-border dishes, we recommend Mexican Cooking Made Easy by Diane Soliz-Martese. The illustrated 95-page softcover cookbook contains more than 100 kitchen-tested authentic Mexican recipes with easy-to-follow directions. To obtain a copy ($14.95 plus shipping and handling), telephone Arizona Highways toll-free at 1 (800) 543-5432; in the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., call (602) 258-1000.