Red Rock Country from the Upscale Side

RESORT LIVING IN RED ROCK COUNTRY for Some Enchanted Evening

LATE SUMMER STORM IN THE RED rock country was performing Mother Nature's thunder and lightning symphony with unrestrained enthusiasm, and it created its own ovations as the walls of Boynton Canyon hurled the thunderclaps back and forth until they vanished from exhaustion. Then, when the last notes had rumbled away, the sun reappeared and The Enchantment Resort emerged from the darkness, like Brigadoon rising from the mists of the Scottish highlands.

As our car slowed for the gatekeeper's greeting, I reached back and patted my wallet. It was a reflex action. One of my first recollections of the resort was spotting a package deal in the 1993 Neiman Marcus Christmas catalog. Five days and five nights for two couples over Christmas or New Year's. For $4,995 Meals included. The package, though, hasn't been a big seller. Normal rates are substantially less.

The four-diamond resort sits on 70 acres in Boynton Canyon five miles west of Sedona. The gatekeeper, who obviously was happy to be in this beguiling spot, said he was from Massachusetts, and he'd never go back there. As we drove toward the clubhouse, we were adrift in so many wildflowers nodding in the poststorm breezes that I thought of Dorothy Gale, the little girl in pigtails who piloted a farmhouse through a tornado en route to Oz. When she opened the door after crash-landing on the wicked witch, she was greeted by a similar splash of color, which prompted her to utter the now-famous soliloquy: "Toto, I don't think we're in Kansas anymore." Neither, we thought, are we.

RESORT LIVING

At first we didn't pay much attention to the resort buildings. That's because they're designed to blend in with the surroundings. The casitas hug the rock terraces, dwarfed by the natural splendor. Like all the rooms, ours had a balcony and a wraparound look at the canyon, which is millions of years old. Maybe even as old as time itself if you believe the story of the ancient Apache prophets who foretold that a great flood would destroy the people. According to the tale, a wise man of the tribe carved a boat out of a hollow cottonwood log and placed his daughter inside. She survived the flooding and became First Woman. The waters receded and her boat came to rest in the carniyon. Although grateful at being spared, she was lonely. So she performed the ceremonies of her people, mated with the sun, and gave the human race a fresh start. According to YavapaiApache tradition, her spirit is still in the canyon, and her descendants return here several times each year to honor her.

Uqualla knows the stories well, and tells them in predinner ceremonies in the clubhouse. The resort's concierge, Uqualla is a Havasupai who was raised in the Grand Canyon, and his tales are flamboyant productions, filled with thunderous tones and dramatic gestures.

But soon the time came to explore this land where ancient Indians once lived their legends. There are a couple of hiking trails near the perimeter of The Enchantment. One's long; one's short. After a major breakfast on the restaurant patio, I opted for the minitrek in the hope that it would burn up enough calories so I could justify lunch, which was only about two hours away, because the silence of the previous night was so intense that it made me sleep right through dawn and the four hours that followed it.

The trail is not at all strenuous. As I began, a small lizard skittered across my path and perched on a rock so it could watch me watching it. After a few minutes, the critter moved on, disappointed that I hadn't taken its picture.

As I ambled along, I came upon a number of small caves and other hiding places, and I peered inside, yielding to an inner fantasy that said that if I could put up with a little discomfort, I could live in one of them. I'd have to eat nuts and berries and let my beard grow, but it would be worth it, I thought, just to be a part of all this. A group of tourists huffed by and put an end to my daydream. It was just as well. It wouldn't last. After a couple of days, I'd need a hamburger.

Farther down the trail, I reached a red spire standing apart from the canyon wall. There are those who say it's a power point. New Agers come here to absorb the emanations of the electromagnetic fields, or vortices, and claim they're as strong as the vibrations from Stonehenge in England or the pyramids of Egypt. And some people say the rock can awaken recollections of past lives.

I hung around for a while on the off chance that maybe I'd once ruled Persia, but outside of thinking about lunch, no vision appeared. Apparently the rock has the power to spot a skeptic.

Back in the resort's Yavapai Room, I theorized that the other, longer hike would get rid of even more calories and therefore approached lunch with a noticeable lack of restraint, then considered ordering a lunch box picnic in case I had an energy breakdown on the trail.

The long trail is a six-mile round-trip and relatively easy. It passes through areas considered sacred by many Native Americans, including the Navajos and Hopis, and those who complete the journey will come across ancient Sinaguan cliff dwelling ruins.

They'll also encounter huge old alligator junipers, which appeal to the instincts of every photographer because they have placed themselves in strategic positions to frame the brilliance of red rocks against blue sky. One of the junipers is a twisted giant that has spawned a bit of modern-day folklore. According to this legend, Walt Disney was a frequent visitor in the canyon and was so impressed with that particular juniper that he used it as the inspiration for the tree that appears at the beginning of Fantasia. It could be true. Nobody actually denies it. But on the other hand, nobody's erected a historical plaque attesting to the fact.

Castle Rock, another trail landmark, might also resurrect images of Mickey Mouse because Disney allegedly used it as the model for the castle in Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. Or so the story goes.

Although the trail isn't owned by the resort because it's in the Coconino National Forest, it plays a major role in The Enchantment's image. So the resort takes good care of it.

The trip to the end of Boynton Canyon takes at least three hours but few finish in that time because of the "gawk factor," a common malady that causes open-mouthed gaping and wide-eyed gazing in the presence of the sheer cliffs.

I arrived back at the casita a few minutes before my wife, Lyn, who had elected to go for a facial and a massage instead of accompanying me into the wilds. I began telling her about the manzanita bushes and the blue jays I had encountered; she merely sighed and got that look of rapture, a clear indication that in her mind, at least, she'd made the right decision.

Night came in a hurry because the steep canyon walls serve as a barrier to twilight. Uqualla's stirring account of how the world came to be was still echoing down the hallways as we entered the dining room. The servers seated us and willingly shared the reasons why they never get tired of all the beauty, day after day, then helped us decide which entrees would go best with the moon rising to the east.

Full nightfall was an extravagance of quiet. The silence drifted over us like a down-filled comforter on a frosty night, and it distracted our attempts to count the stars, so the time passed in reflection of what transpired today and anticipation of what could happen tomorrow.

And, depending on our choices, tomorrow could be busy. Very busy. The Enchantmentis only about 20 minutes from Sedona and less than an hour or so from Jerome, Oak Creek Canyon, Flagstaff, Sunset Crater, Walnut Canyon, the Tuzigoot and Wupatki national monuments, and the Verde River Canyon Railway at Clarkdale. And the Grand Canyon, Meteor Crater, and the Grand Canyon Railway at Williams are about three hours away, more or less.

We gave them some thought, then decided they'd still be there next time. So we overslept and overate, then dealt with the realization that the real world was only a mile or so down the road.

WHEN YOU GO

Blooming agaves, or century plants, frame the cliffs of the nearby wilderness.

My car slowed again at the gate house and the crossbar lifted.

Our stay wasn't long enough. But we have some pretty good memories. And, of course, color slides.

Here are some of the top resorts in Arizona, according to the AAA Arizona New Mexico Tour Book or Mobil Travel Guide.

Carefree: Boulders Resort & Club, (602) 488-9009.

Litchfield Park: The Wigwam Resort, (602) 935-3811.

Paradise Valley: Marriott's Camelback Inn, (602) 948-1700.

Phoenix: Pointe Hilton Resort at Squaw Peak, (602) 997-2626; Point Hilton Resort at Tapatio Cliffs, (602) 866-7500; Pointe Hilton Resort on South Mountain, (602) 438-9000.

Scottsdale: Hyatt Regency Scottsdale at Gainey Ranch, (602) 991-3388; The Phoenician, (602) 941-8200; Radisson Resort Scottsdale, (602) 991-3800; Scottsdale Princess, (602) 585-4848.

Sedona: Enchantment Resort, (520) 282-2900; L'Auberge de Sedona Resort, (520) 282-7131.

Tucson: Loews Ventana Canyon Resort, (520) 299-2020; Sheraton El Conquistador Golf & Tennis Resort, (520) 544-5000; Tucson National Golf and Conference Resort, (520) 297-2271; The Westin La Paloma, (520) 742-6000; Westward Look Resort, (520) 297-1151.

TRAVEL Sedona

Sedona is an amusement park without entrance gates. All it takes to explore Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon are time, transportation, and a taste for adventure. The area's biggest attractions are all Nature-made: crimson cliffs and buttes, the cool waters of Oak Creek, and the Coconino National Forest. And Sedona is enviably positioned in the center of it all.

GETTING THERE:

Sedona is located 119 miles north of Phoenix, via Interstate 17 and State Route 179. Travelers often combine a trip to Sedona with a visit to Flagstaff, located 28 miles north on State Route 89A, and to the Grand Canyon, which is 108 miles north of Sedona.

Scenic Airlines is the single commercial airline that serves the Sedona airport, offering scheduled flights to and from Phoenix and the Grand Canyon. For information, call toll-free (800) 6346801 or (520) 282-7935.

Scheduled shuttle van service from Sky Harbor International Airport in Phoenix to Sedona is offered by Sedona Phoenix Shuttle Service, (520) 282-2066.

ACCOMMODATIONS:

Some of the 3 million-plus people who travel to Sedona every year camp in the Coconino National Forest. Most campsites are open from early May through October. For informa-tion on camping and fishing sites, contact the Sedona Ranger Station at P.O. Box 300, Sedona, AZ 86339; (520) 282-4119.

Still, most visitors "camp" in the motels, hotels, resorts, and bed and breakfast inns that give Sedona a range of accommodations rivaling destinations several times its 15-square-mile size.

Whether for a stay in a cozy B&B tucked amidst pine trees or a luxury resort located along the banks of Oak Creek, the key to finding accommodations in Sedona is to make reservations early.

The Sedona-Oak Creek Chamber of Commerce is a good place to start. The chamber tracks occupancy at more than 70 lodging establishments and offers the telephone numbers of properties with available rooms. Its lodging information and referral hotline is toll-free (800) 288-7336 or (520) 282-7722. There also are four private reservation services that book rooms at Sedona-area properties. A listing of their toll-free telephone numbers is available through the chamber.

The chamber's visitors center is centrally located in uptown Sedona at the intersection of State Route 89A and Forest Road 331. It's easy to spot. Just look for groups of people clustered around maps and brochures, talking animatedly and pointing in all directions.

The visitors center is open daily, except New Year's Day,

WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO DO WHERE TO STAY

Thanksgiving, and Christmas. From early May through mid-September, the center operates from 8:30 A.M. to 5 P.M. From Labor Day through May, the center's hours are 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. Year-round, the center is open Sundays from 9 A.M. to 3 P.M. In addition to accommodations information, the center provides hundreds of brochures on area attractions and recreation, a multitude of maps, and a comprehensive visitors guide.

WHEN TO GO:

With its kaleidoscope of attractions, Sedona draws visitors year-round. In winter Sedona gets a mere 8.8 inches of snow, just enough to dec-orate the buttes for the holidays, but not enough to interfere with enjoying a winter retreat. Winter high temperatures hover in the 50s, while winter lows linger in the 30s.

Spring and fall temperatures are the most wel-coming for outdoor enthusiasts. In April average daily highs reach 72° F. and average daily lows rest near 42° F. In October the temperature range changes to an average high of 77° F. and an average low of 48° F.

Many Arizonans in warmer parts of the state make it a habit to travel to Sedona for summer getaways. When Tucson and Phoenix record highs above 100° F., Sedona may reach a more tepid 90° F. to 95° F. Amidst pine forests and oak groves, even these high temperatures seem, well, cooler.

WHAT TO DO:

Drinking in the drama of the red rocks is a top priority for most visitors. With the help of maps and guidebooks available at the chamber's visitors center and at many shops around town, do-it-yourselfers can navigate their way to scenic overlooks, archaeological sites, and more than 30 prized hiking trails.

Those who prefer to explore Sedona with someone who knows the lay of the land can choose from tours by foot, jeep, horseback, hot-air balloon, helicopter, and airplane.

Most folks have no trouble finding their way to Oak Creek, which babbles down Oak Creek Canyon through Sedona. While in Sedona proper, two picturesque places to sidle up to Oak Creek are on the grounds of the upscale resorts L'Auberge de Sedona and Los Abrigados.

As it meanders north toward Flagstaff through dozen-mile-long Oak Creek Canyon, State Route 89A parallels Oak Creek, making it easy to stop frequently and stick a toe in the water, sip fresh apple cider pressed from fruit grown in nearby orchards, or watch a maple leaf float by. Grasshopper Point, two miles north of Sedona, is a favored spot for anglers fishing for rainbow and brown trout. Recommended picnic spots include Halfway and Ensinoso.

Farther north Slide Rock State Park draws tremendous crowds in warm weather. Sliding down the short natural slick-rock slide through the always chilly water is a rite of passage for most firsttime visitors. More experienced Slide Rockers leave the crowds behind and hike deeper into the canyon to explore less trafficked trails. The park has a $3 entrance fee.

Sedona also is famous for its shopping. The inviting cobbled courtyards of Tlaquepaque (pronounced T-lockay-pockay) are surrounded by restaurants, art galleries, and clothing and gift stores. Tlaquepaque is reminiscent of a real mercado in Mexico for which it is named.

Other shopping hot spots include uptown Sedona, a favorite of souvenir hounds, and a new outlet shopping mall in the Village of Oak Creek south of Sedona.

A natural water chute draws summer crowds to Slide Rock State Park, a few miles north of Sedona in Oak Creek canyon. The park's other attractions include a creek-side hiking trail and picnic spots by the dozens. RANDY PRENTICE

ANNUAL EVENTS:

Most notable among Sedona's many special events are the Western Americana Festival held Memorial Day weekend; the Garlic Festival in June; September's Jazz on the Rocks outdoor concert; Fiesta del Tlaquepaque and the Sedona Sculpture Walk, both held in early October; and the Red Rock Fantasy of Lights at Los Abrigados Resort, a display of more than 750,000 Christmas lights which opens in late November and extends through mid-January.