MICHAEL PELLEGATTI

SAVING OUR FRAGILE LANDS

'Mister, can you spare a buck?' is more than a pitch for a lottery ticket. It's also a cry to save two rare fish.

SAVING OUR FRAGILE LANDS

Arizona, thanks to a lot of $1 bets, is getting two large parcels of wild lands: one a tract of rolling grazing land near the Mexican border and the other a highcountry ranch in the White Mountains to the north.

The lands are as different as their buyers, the Arizona Game and Fish Commission and the State Parks Board.

The southern Arizona land is part of the Sonoran Desert and has been trod by a parade of explorers, soldiers, and settlers since the days of Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, the famed 17th-century missionary and colonizer.

The northern Arizona property, located in a sparsely settled region whose habitation goes back to the prehistoric Anasazi Indians, is a 7,000-foot-high spread of pine, juniper, and well-watered rangeland on the edge of the vast Colorado Plateau.

Most of the money to purchase the lands comes from the voter-mandated Heritage Fund, which splits an annual $20 million from the various state lottery drawings between the game and fish department and state parks. The public, in a referendum, specified that the money be used to preserve and protect threatened and endangered species as well as fragile lands, especially riparian habitats.Both agencies tout the Heritage Fund land purchases as providing the public with far-ranging benefits. But it is the fish and wildlife which owe their very lives to the preservation of their natural habitat - that stand to make the most gains.

The rationale for each purchase has been the protection of two tiny rare fish.

In Sonoita Creek State Natural Area, it is the endangered Gila topminnow while the game and fish department's Sipe White Mountain Wildlife Area and the companion property, the Wenima Wildlife Area, both contain populations of the Little Colorado spinedace, which is on the federal list of threatened species.

State parks purchased the 4,914-acre Sonoita Creek property, which consists of mostly rolling grazing land north of Nogales, from Tucson real estate developerJohn Ratliff in early 1994 for $2.8 million, about $400,000 less than the appraised value. It is the largest single land purchase in state parks history and will eventually be linked to Patagonia Lake State Park a few miles away. Game and fish used its lottery money in 1993 to buy two properties near Springerville: the 1,362-acre White Mountain Hereford Ranch, owned by Dennis Sipe, and the 355-acre riparian corridor.

The ranch was purchased from Scottsdale resident Dennis Sipe for $3.7 million, using $2.6 million in lottery money and the remainder from a foundation grant, some federal funds, and proceeds from the sale of state duck (hunting) stamps and duckstamp prints.

The Wenima land, located mostly in the cliff-ringed Little Colorado River area north of Springerville, cost $902,000 of which $602,000 was lottery funds and $300,000 came from duck stamps and prints. The former owner was the Wenima Village Partnership, a subdivider. The Wenima Wildlife Area was augmented in March with a 150acre purchase. While the impetus for the purchases is saving the two tiny fish, in reality most visitors to the new lands will come to see other forms of wildlife. In the Sonoita Creek region, it will be birds that frequent the riparian areas. Many of them will be the same species that attract large numbers of bird-watchers from all over the nation to The Nature Conservancy's Sonoita Creek Preserve, located just a few miles upstream near the small town of Patagonia.

And undoubtedly it will be elk and to a lesser extent mule deer that people will come to see on the game and fish department lands.

It was during a visit to Sonoita Creek with the Executive Director Arizona State Parks Board Ken Travous that I first became aware of the challenge the agency faces in keeping the new park in a natural state.

The land purchased by state parks does not include the whole creek. The park boundary is limited to the west bank only.

ALMOST A THOUSAND HEAD OF ELK CAN BE SEEN GRAZING ON THE RANCH DURING WINTER.

(PRECEDING PANEL, PAGES 4 AND 5) Sonoita Creek, left, courses through Patagonia Lake State Park, which will eventually be linked to 4,914 acres of rolling grassland purchased by the Arizona State Parks Department. On the right, the Little Colorado River cuts across the Wenima Wildlife Area north of Springerville through land purchased by the Arizona Game and Fish Commission with the hope of saving two endangered fish, the Little Colorado spinedace and the Gila topminnow.

SAVING OUR FRAGILE LANDS 'MANY PEOPLE ARE INTERESTED IN JUST SEEING WILDLIFE IN ITS NATURAL HABITAT.'

The land on the opposite bank is privately owned and is being subdivided. New homes, new roads, new fences, and all the other accoutrements of a modern life-style are springing up along the creek.

State parks believed the sale had to be completed as quickly as possible to save the parcel from becoming a sea of tract homes, Travous said.

He said parks would like to obtain an agreement with the landowners on the opposite bank restricting access to the creek. Already one enterprising soul has bulldozed his own little swimming hole in the creek bottom.

Up north the game and fish department doesn't have that problem. The Sipe property, which abuts the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest, is eight miles southeast of Springerville, while the Wenima land, two miles north and downstream from the town, is surrounded mostly by state land.

The ranch purchase also included an 18,000-acre cattle grazing allotment, which the game and fish department waived back to the Forest Service. Presently this critical winter range within the allotment is being managed for elk, deer, and other wildlife.

Cattle grazing versus elk grazing is a hot topic in the White Mountains.

The Sipe property has 300 acres of irrigated farmland and pastures. The game and fish department hopes to return this land to a series of grassy meadows to provide elk with a source of winter forage.

If it works out, wildlife managers think it will help alleviate competition between elk and cattle by encouraging the elk herds to spend the winter there. Now elk tend to migrate to lower elevations where they consume the cattle forage raised by nearby ranchers.

At the present time, even without the planned grazing improvements, almost a thousand head of elk can be seen grazing on the ranch during winter.

The spinedace fish live mainly in Rudd Creek, a normally small, slow stream that cuts through the middle of the ranch. The creek waters some 50 acres of wetland habitat and supplies several ranch ponds. Because of the water and riparian habitat, this part of the ranch is a popular gathering place for migrating waterfowl, bald eagles, and other birds.

I toured the ranch in the company of Bob Vahle, the wildlife program manager for the Pinetop region, whose barely controlled enthusiasm for the ranch's possibilities was catching.

"We think we have here on this ranch the best possible means we can find to preserve wildlife, prevent grazing depredation, and educate the public about wildlife. Many people are interested in just seeing wildlife in its natural habitat. We'd like to develop a 'Watchable Wildlife' program in Arizona like the ones that are so popular in other states," said Vahle.

"The area provides many opportunities for viewing elk and deer while they graze. Interpretive services could point out wildlife locations and the best spots for photographs," he said.

The ranch headquarters contains a large stone-walled two-story house of 5,692 square feet whose front porch looks out across a tree-shaded front lawn toward the imposing humpback of 10,955-foot Escudilla Mountain.

There also is another house, which the former owner has converted into a restaurant and bar. In addition, there are a 10,000square-foot wooden barn, shops, and assorted ranch buildings on the property.

Game and fish is toying with the idea of using the stone house as a visitors center. Surveys indicate that most people prefer low-intensity management and do not favor development of a food concession and gift shop. Seminars, large meetings, and "showme" trips could be hosted from the ranch buildings.

That scenario was reinforced by an economic study the high-end estimates of which envision potentially 20,000 annual visitors to the wildlife area. Arizona Game and Fish Department Director Duane Shroufe estimated that gross annual revenues from ranch visitors who patronize Springerville stores, motels, and restaurants could add $1.2 million to the local economy. Game and fish is undecided about what

SAVING OUR FRAGILE LANDS

to dopending an archaeological survey - with a large 70-plus-room Indian ruin on the ranch. Partially excavated, the walls of the ruin show fine examples of small stone masonary work, similar to the Anasazi Indian ruin found at Homolovi Ruins State Park near Winslow.

Both the wildlife areas have water rights that go with the land. The game and fish department plans to exercise these rights to protect the water level of Becker Lake, a prize department trout-fishing lake just north of Springerville, and to maintain a constant flow of water through 19 miles of the Little Colorado.

Sonoita Creek also contains water rights that enable state parks to keep Patagonia Lake nearly full year-round and still maintain a constant flow from the spillway to keep the downstream creek from drying up.

"Preserving the riparian values in Sonoita Creek has been our number one goal," said Travous. "Here, in Arizona, water is the key to all life, and where you find water is where you'll find wildlife.

"We expect most of the public's interest will be centered on the creek and Fresno Canyon, another drainage that has seasonal water in it. Our plan is to build a hiking trail from Patagonia Lake down the creek. The trail will follow an old railroad right-of-way grade that runs along the park side of the creek. The tracks, which were removed years ago, once ran from Benson to Nogales," he said.

"Eventually we'd like to have a loop trail back across the interior of the park, which offers good populations of upland Sonoran Desert wildlife such as white-tailed deer, javelinas, antelope jackrabbits, Gambel's quail, mourning and whitewing doves, rattlesnakes, Gila monsters, and quite a few coyotes," said Travous.

All these plans are becoming a reality because of two tiny fish and the lottery-supported Heritage Fund.

Editor's Note: Visitors to Sonoita Creek State Natural Area prior to the official opening (projected for late 1996) will enter the area on a permit basis on ranger-led interpretive day hikes. Visitors can obtain a state parks' day-use permit at Patagonia Lake State Park. Since a trails system has not been established yet, the hiking experience will be one that is rugged with no rest rooms or water available. Until the natural area is fenced and signed and trails developed, visitation will be only through escorted hikes for visitor safety and to limit trespass onto adjacent private lands.

For more information, contact state parks at (602) 542-4174.

Game and fish has completed final management plans for the Sipe White Mountain Wildlife Area and Wenima Wildlife Area. Visitors are welcome at both properties, however, overnight facilities are not available. We suggest you make reservations for accommodations in the nearby communities of Springerville, Eagar, Greer, or Alpine. For those who prefer camping, campsites are available on the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest.

For more information, contact game and fish in Pinetop at (520) 367-4281.

Soldiers strained against the enthusiastic milling crowds, arms locked to form a protective cordon around the dispirited band of Apaches trudging through the early morning Florida streets.

"It was a show not equaled by any circus that ever traveled. Barnum would have gone into ecstasies over it," raved a reporter watching the parade of warriors wrapped in colorful blankets, scantily clad young men, young women "smirking a little as with the consciousness of the attention they were attracting," children "trundling along in childish innocence," and finally the old women carrying the baggage.

It was April, 1886, and Florida was getting its first glimpse of the "Tigers of the Desert," the Apache prisoners of war.

In August the Naiche-Geronimo band surrendered, and the news flashed across the nation like a forest fire topping. The Apache terror was over. But for the utterly defeated Apaches, the humiliation and exploitation had just begun.

Between April and October, five groups of more than 500 Chiricahua and Warm Springs Apaches made the sorrowful trip across the continent. As the special trains journeyed eastward, they often stopped, allowing the White Eyes to peer at the infamous prisoners. The Apaches, staring back through soot-grimed windows, saw blurred white faces twisted in hatred, gaping mouths spewing words they didn't understand, raised fists shaking. Asa Daklugie, Geronimo's nephew, remembered, "Every time [the train] stopped, we expected to be taken off and killed."

As they traveled farther east, however, the faces changed, became less angry, more curious. These White Eyes wanted souvenirs, a desire the Apaches quickly capitalized on. Geronimo the most famous of all the prisoners was his own best PR man and an astute businessman. His possessions sold faster and for more money. When he exhausted his supply, he gathered up items belonging to his warriors. Said the Pensa-cola Commercial, "He'd then exhibit himself to the anxious memento seekers, ostenta-tiously take off the article and hand it to the purchaser."

Daklugie rationalized, "He didn't tell anybody he made them people just as-sumed he did."

Sometimes Geronimo lost patience with the rude staring White Eyes. Often, clad only in a breechcloth, he was made to stand on the platform between cars before the gawking crowds. Once, apparently dis-gruntled, he hefted a foot and propped it against the side of the car, providing the

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spectators an up-close and very personal view of the notorious war leader.

Another time, a reporter entered the car where Geronimo slept, thinking to bribe him for a story with a cigar from the handful he carried. Geronimo opened one sleepy eye, grabbed all the cigars, and turned away. The ripped-off reporter meekly left the train with nary a quote.

Although the Southwest screamed for Apache blood, the East welcomed its reluctant visitors with open arms. Dollar signs, visions of swarming tourists, and the resultant economic boost beckoned.

A war of words broke out. With close to 500 Apaches already crammed into tiny Fort Marion at St. Augustine, Pensacolians started a petition to have the NaicheGeronimo band incarcerated at Fort Pickens on Santa Rosa Island in Pensacola Bay. "The painted demons," the petitioners said, would be a "better card than a circus or sea serpent," and give "Pensacola an attraction which will bring her many visitors." The Florida Times-Union, speaking for St. Augustine, rebutted, "Geronimo is the man we want here."

Pensacola persevered and The Pensacolian proudly stated: "The government has selected the most suitable place to incarcerate the greatest living American general and his principal officers . . . We welcome the nation's distinguished guests."

Geronimo's presence was so coveted that years later reputable St. Augustinians swore he'd graced their fair city.

One longtime resident said Geronimo was among the Apaches who often squatted in her courtyard and ate ice cream. Another said she'd been grabbed by Geronimo and only the quick intervention of the soldiers saved her from an unspeakable fate. And the bishop of Haiti would recall that he was "the only male person in whose hair Geronimo had had his hand without taking a scalp." When the bishop was a boy, he said, Geronimo reached between cell bars and stroked his blond hair.

While Geronimo was allegedly eating ice cream, grabbing young girls, and tousling golden curls, he and his warriors were, in actuality, leading a sideshow existence at Fort Pickens.

Excursion boats left Pensacola daily, and tourists intruded into every facet of the Apaches' lives. It was one-stop shopping at its best. "You can go over to Santa Rosa Island, see Fort Pickens and Geronimo, and gather beautiful shells and marine curiosities on the beach," stated the Pensacola Commercial. On a record day, 459 Pensacolians made the trip.

'HE WAS ABOUT AS MILD MANNERED A MAN AS EVER SCUTTLED A SHIP OR CUT A THROAT AND FOR THAT MATTER BUTCHERED DEFENSELESS WOMEN AND CHILDREN.'

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Groupies flourished. A reporter chided regular female visitors, "The ladies who visit these savages indulge in too much gush." Said another, "We confess our lack of sympathy with the kind of mentality that makes much of murderers and cut throats." One breathless young thing asked a soldier, "Can you tell me what is best for me to give to Geronimo?" He answered, "An ounce of lead between the eyes."

This feminine attention didn't go unnoticed. An observer noted, "Geronimo recalls the names of several ladies who have paid more than one visit."

The attention paid the prisoners rankled some. A cartoon captioned "Tired of Murder-a Siesta in Florida" ran in Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper. In it Geronimo lounges in a hammock smoking a cigar, liquor bottle at hand, while being fanned by Uncle Sam. The Pensacolian stated,

"Geronimo and his band got fat in Florida and were well pleased with their 'punishment.'" And in San Antonio, the media reported: "The bloodthirsty villains are gazed at, covered with given flowers and delicacies, as if they were heroes."

Contrary to this supposed life of leisure and luxury, the Apaches suffered both mentally and physically. They were homesick for Arizona and felt certain a death sentence dangled dangerously close over their heads. Malaria and tuberculosis decimated their ranks. Finally the government moved both groups to what was considered a healthier climate: Mt. Vernon, Alabama.

St. Augustine and Pensacola cried foul. "Lo! The poor Indians silently packed their tents and stole away in the dark hours of the night," penned a St. Augustinian writer. The Pensacolian said, "Just think of it, our Big Injun, and large-sized curiosity, Geronimo,together with those held with him at Fort Pickens, were conveyed to Mobile."

Alabama, of course, was delighted. "The placing of the Indians at Mt. Vernon will add greatly to the attractiveness of that place as a Sunday school picnic resort," reported The Mobile Register, while railroad officials proclaimed, "Mt. Vernon will become a favorite summer resort."

Excursions from as far away as New Orleans visited Apache Village. The docility and friendliness of the Apaches disappointed many. That Geronimo taught Sunday school, acted as justice of the peace, and kept discipline in the schoolroom seemed incongruous. After observing Geronimo, the Northwestern Lumberman said, "He was about as mild mannered a man as ever scuttled a ship or cut a throat and for that matter butchered defenseless women and children."

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In 1894 the government moved the Apaches permanently to Fort Sill, Indian Territory, Oklahoma. But by then, disease had taken its toll. Less than 300 Apaches remained, most of them children born in captivity.

While the intense curiosity lessened, one thing remained constant. Geronimo was in demand, a salable commodity. He made many personal appearances, including the Omaha Exposition and the St. Louis World's Fair.

He came close to stealing Teddy Roosevelt's thunder when he appeared in the new president's inaugural parade. Heading a delegation of Indian leaders, Geronimo rode in full face paint, head held high without a flicker of emotion showing on his creased face. He wore only a breechcloth, moccasins, and his medicine hat: a cap ofeagle feathers with streaming eagle plumes which hung below his stirrups. The cheers for Roosevelt evaporated. Men threw their hats into the air and shouted, "Hooray for Geronimo!" Daklugie, acting as Geronimo's segundo, said, "We were told later that Roosevelt said he never wished to hear the name of Geronimo again."

This fame, along with a proclivity for making a buck, ensured Geronimo's pockets always jingled. He sold anything anyone wanted to buy. His photo and autograph were always for sale. He once sold a ragged hawk feather plucked from the ground for five dollars. On trips, he'd cut the buttons from his coat and sell them for 25 cents each; his hat went for five dollars. He'd then sew on new buttons and don a new hat (he'd had the foresight to bring along extras), and eagerly await the next stop. Of his trip to the World's Fair, he said, "I often made as much as two dollars a day, and when I returned I had plenty of money more than I had ever owned before." When he died, he had more than $10,000 in his bank account.

Today interest in the Apaches remains high. There is understanding, compassion, and respect for these people who fought so fiercely and valiantly to save their homeland and, because of this, were doomed to a sideshow existence.

Feelings about Geronimo, however, remain mixed. But no matter whether you think of him as a villain or a folk hero, one fact is undeniable. As one official so succinctly said, "He is the only Geronimo."