Mileposts/Events

Free Hotel Guide

To obtain a complimentary 1995 Best Western Road Atlas and Travelers' Guide, call toll-free (in North America) (800) 5281234. The guide lists Best Western hotels in the U.S., Canada, Mexico, the Caribbean, and Central America, and also includes color photos of the hotels, Mobil Travel Guide and American Automobile Association (AAA) Tour Book ratings, rates, contact addresses and telephone numbers, and nearby points of interest. Towering trees turned golden and an increased chance of seeing wildlife are good reasons to hop aboard the Verde Canyon Railroad this fall. The air-conditioned train runs between Clarkdale and Perkinsville through scenic terrain in the Verde Valley that's otherwise inaccessible. The threeand-a-half-hour, 40-mile-long round-trip ride takes you through a "wild and protected ecosystem abundant in bald eagles, great blue herons, deer, and javelinas," past a riparian forest of willows and cottonwoods, near 1,000-year-old Sinagua ruins, and around a desert mesa. There's a snack bar on board, and three first-class cars offer complimentary hors d'oeuvres and cocktail service; five open-air viewing cars are popular spots. The trains run Wednesday through Sunday, departing at 11 A.M. and returning about 3 P.M. For rates and reservations, call toll-free (800) 293-7245.

Autumn Train Trek Easy Hike, Great Anasazi Ruin

For those who like to view remote Indian ruins without having to endure strenuous hikes, head for Betatakin. Betatakin, a 135-room Anasziruilt in A.D. 1275 in extreme northern Arizona on the Navajo reservation, can be reached by a fairly grueling five-mile round-trip hike into a canyon lined with stands of fir and aspen.

But for those who prefer a gentler hike, there's a paved pathway to an overlook of Betatakin. The hike is a half mile each way and descends only 150 feet. The path starts adjacent to the visitors center and winds gracefully through juniper and piñon pine, cliff rose, broadleaf yucca, and other mediumaltitude plants. Along the way, you will cross nine wooden bridges, and at the overlook there's a telescope for close-up views of the ruin.

The visitors center at Betatakin can be reached by paved roads. From Flagstaff take U.S Route 89 north to U.S. 160, northeast to State Route 564, and then 10 miles north to the center. For more information, contact Navajo National Monument, H.C. 71, Box 3, Tonalea, AZ 86044-9704; (520) 6722366.

Read All about It

What really occurred at the O.K. Corral in 1881? What was the end result of the Oatman Massacre? Just how perilous was one-armed Major Powell's first Colorado River journey through the unexplored realm of the Grand Canyon? What happened to Billy the Kid in Arizona? The answers to these questions and much, much more are tackled by author-historian James A. Crutchfield in his latest book, It Happened in Arizona.

This is by no means a dry history text. Crutchfield writes with verve and flair, capturing the danger, the panic, and the perils of some of the most intense incidents in the existence of the state.

Crutchfield acknowledges that although the narratives are not a thorough history of Arizona, he's selected them with an eye to giving the reader a good grounding in the state's historical background.

The 128-page softcover history book costs $8.95 plus shipping and handling and is available through the magazine. To order, telephone tollfree (800) 543-5432; in the Phoenix area and outside the U.S., call (602) 258-1000.

Party Time at the Arboretum

If you haven't visited the Boyce Thompson Southwestern Arboretum near Superior in a while, stop by to enjoy the new Chihuahuan Desert Exhibit, where meandering trails through stands of cacti, shrubs, and small trees native to northern Mexico and New Mexico offer a real wilderness experience. As an added inducement this month, Saturday, September 16, the arboretum hosts its annual "ByeBye, Buzzards!" party, bidding a tearful (but not too much they'll be back) farewell to the resident turkey vultures that winter in other parts. That's the good news; the bad news is that the big birds lift off early 7 A.M. to be exact. A general bird-watching tour follows the adieus, and at 10 o'clock everybody spoils their lunch with a big slice of "buzzard cake." For more information, call (520) 689-2723.

Biking Lakeside

Paved bicycle paths along State Route 209 in northern Arizona pass two of the state's largest lakes, Upper Lake Mary and Mormon Lake. The route, a popular training course for racers and long-distance riders, cuts through scenic pine woods and encompasses some rolling hills. From Flagstaff, past Upper Lake Mary, through Mormon Lake village and back is about 50 miles. Take your binoculars: Mormon Lake shelters water birds, and elk often come to drink. There are three Forest Service campgrounds near the lakes for overnight stays; for reservations, call toll-free (800) 280-2267. Tom Kuhn

Museum du Jour

Model trains clickety-clacking through detailed historical displays and exhibits focusing on the history of the Verde Valley draw visitors to the unexpectedly named Clemenceau Heritage Museum and Verde Historical Society in downtown Cottonwood. (The name comes from the old town of Clemenceau, which was named after French Premier Georges Clemenceau.) Guided tours are available, and there's a gift shop. The museum is open 9 A.M. to noon, Wednesday, and 11 A.M. to 3 P.M., Friday through Sunday; admission is free. For more information, write P.O. Box 511, Cottonwood, AZ 86326, or telephone (520) 634-2868. Stuart Rosebrook

Grass Tennis Court

Named one of the 50 Greatest U.S. Tennis Resorts by Tennis magazine, Scottsdale's Phoenician offers three types of playing surfaces. In addition to Plexipave hard courts and courts paved with resilient Re-bound Ace surface from Australia, players can smash and volley on a Wimbledon championship grass court, the latest addition to the resort's 12-court Tennis Garden. To inquire, call (602) 941-8200.

Birds, Birds, Birds

Mid-September is when colorful migrating warblers start to arrive at the Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge, located in Altar Valley about an hour southwest of Tucson. To find out if they're there yet, and to ask about other attractions (guided hikes, horseback riding, biking, hunting, and camping) of the "rolling sea of grass," contact the refuge, P.O. Box 109, Sasabe, AZ 85633; (520) 823-4251.

EVENTS Sweet Corn Festival

September 1-2; Snowflake-Taylor Corn on the cob and all the fixin's are the excuse for this annual celebration in the old farming area in the scenic high desert a few miles north of Show Low in the White Mountains area. There'll also be a kids' rodeo, a parade, a car show, dances, a barbecue, and arts and crafts displays. Admission is free. Information: (520) 536-4331.

Coconino County Fair

September 1-4; Flagstaff What can you say about an event that promises both ski-jumping and trampoline-bouncing shows plus demonstrations of lumberjacking skills except, "What time does the fun begin?" This is the 46th annual county fair held amid the heady fragrance of Flag's pine forests, so you know the folks have got it fine-tuned. Also on tap will be: a horse show, a demolition derby, magicians, clowns, a petting zoo, live musical performances, carnival rides, and food booths. Admission ranges from $1.50 to $3.50. Information: (520) 774-5139.

Arts and Crafts Fest

September 2-3; Strawberry This Labor Day diversion in Mogollon Rim country highlights arts and crafts, but some folks think the food's the real draw: September 2 promises a hearty cowboy breakfast, and September 3 serves up pancakes; barbecued chicken and hamburgers will be available both days. Free admission. Information: (520) 476-4567.

Labor Day Rodeo

September 2-4; Sonoita Bull riding, calf roping, and barrel racing provide some of the action at this holiday event in southern Arizona's rolling grasslands. There'll also be a dance and a steak fry. Admission is $4 to $7. Information: (520) 455-5553.

Faire on the Square

September 2-4; Prescott More than 150 artisans from around the Southwest will participate in this juried arts and crafts extravaganza held in the mile-high town's tree-lined picture-postcard Courthouse Plaza. Free admission. Information: (520) 445-2000 or toll-free (800) 266-7534.

Gunfighters Rendezvous

September 2-4; Tombstone Seems like every actor in Hollywood's been pretending to be Wyatt Earp or one of his cronies recently now you can, too. One of the highlights of this annual event in "The Town Too Tough to Die" is an Old West costume parade, and visitors are welcome to join in. Another big draw is the gunfight reenactments at the O.K. Corral. There will be an admission charged for the corral shows. Information: (520) 457-3548.

Navajo Nation Fair

September 6-10; Window Rock A rodeo, concerts, a parade, a powwow, kids' activities, a baby beauty contest, traditional singing and dancing, and a free barbecue are the big attractions of this annual gathering on the sprawling Navajo reservation. There's an admission charged for the rodeo all days, and for the fair all days except for free general admission on Wednesday and Thursday. Information: (520) 871-6478.

County Fair

September 15-17; Pine The Northern Gila County Fair puts the emphasis on homemade products and home-grown foods. There'll be plenty of arts and crafts booths to browse. A livestock show and auction will take place the 16th. Admission is a 50-cent donation over age 18. Information: (520) 476-3587.

Fall Festival

September 23-24; Pinetop-Lakeside The area's largest arts and crafts show also boasts a parade, the Run to the Pines Car Show, live music and other entertainment, an antique show, kids' activities, and food booths. Admission is $3. Information: (520) 367-4290.