ARIZONA'S SCENIC BYWAYS

TUCSON TO TUMACACORI AND BEYOND Rambling Southern Arizona's Scenic Byways

Text by Paula Searcy

Photographs by Randy Prentice

“Come on, sleepyheads. Wake up," I called softly, trying to gently prod my two children out of bed. From the look on my daughter's face, I could tell she was wondering why she had awakened in a Tucson hotel room instead of at home in Phoenix. Gathering miscellaneous items to take along with us, I listened to Michael, nine, and Kelsey, four, argue excitedly about who would get the bathroom first. Chuck was already loading the car.

We were setting out on the first of many research trips for a new Arizona Highways book titled Travel Arizona: The Scenic Byways. Our trip would resemble a mini family vacation, because that was the way I wanted to portray each drive in the book. History, scenic beauty, and fun a complete package.

This Scenic Bywayofficially the Patagonia-Sonoita Scenic Road begins just outside the border town of Nogales and heads northeast on State routes 82 and 83, ending at Interstate 10.

But first we headed south of Tucson on Interstate 19, tracing the old trading route along the Santa Cruz River.

The land around 1-19 boasts a storied history of its own, and I recalled it aloud while squinting westward at Mission San Xavier del Bac, gleaming in the morning sun. For centuries Indians across the Southwest used the Santa Cruz as a trail and trade route. In 1691 Padre Eusebio Francisco Kino entered Arizona from northern New Spain following the same course. He established missions at Guevavi and Tumacacori, and later San Xavier at an Indian village called Bac.

San Xavier's Spanish colonial architecture rises impressively from the stark desert floor, an oasis of sorts. A large dome graces one section, and there are two bell towers, one unfinished. The inner sanctum boasts a lavish mixture of brightly colored paintings and statues with gilt accents. As we entered, we saw visitors sitting quietly on the wooden benches, reflecting, praying.

Upon leaving I paused outside the large front entry to look at a cat and mouse carved high up into the stone facade, playing a game of chase. Legend says when the cat catches the mouse, the world will end. Walking away I whispered my own silent prayer. Godspeed to the mouse!

Our next stop was the Titan II Missile Museum. We had been warned not to be fooled by outer appearances, and we really couldn't see much by looking through the fence. Originally maintained for defensive purposes by the U.S. Air Force from 1963 until 1982, the missile site is one of just two remaining (minus the plutonium warhead, of course!). The museum offers visitors a chance to experience a 110-foot Titan II missile "on alert" as it appeared more than 30 years ago.Thirty-five feet below ground, Michael squirmed uneasily in the control seat while our guide entered the missile's launch code. Piercing alarms shattered the silence, reverberating throughout the room. On the count of three, Michael turned a small key just as the guide turned a similar key across the room, "launching" the missile into action. We all giggled nervously, im-pressed and excited, but it was clearly an uneasy thrill.

Emerging into the sunlit desert once again, I pondered the irony of this missile site, resting just up the road from the cat and mouse whose game of chase threatened such dire consequences. Within minutes we rolled easily along the highway, our laughter more genuine. Rich color and diverse terrain soothed weary eyes conditioned to the flat, scrubby, watch-out-for-blowing-dust kind of desert we'd seen between Phoenix and Tucson.

The Santa Rita Mountains rose impressively to the east of I-19, a cascade of deep rich browns streaked with gold, like a chocolate fudge and caramel sundae. Frothy thunderheads enveloped the peaks, and a fine steel-gray mist filtered gently downward. Mount Wrightson crowns the range, towering at 9,543 feet. Madera Canyon (east on Exit 63), within the range, offers excellent hiking, camping, sight-seeing, and bird-watching. Among the 230 species of birds that spend at least part of the year in the canyon are the elegant trogon, broad-billed hummingbird, and sulphur-bellied flycatcher.

Driving south Chuck pointed out the Sierrita Mountains to the west, followed by the Tumacacori Mountains and the Cerro Colorado Mountains near Arivaca Junction. Eventually we saw the Atascosa range appearing west of the Rio Rico resort, which is about 12 miles north of Nogales.

We passed Exit 34 which leads to Tubac and Tumacacori. Rich in Hispanic culture and Arizona history, the area includes a mission, Tubac Presidio State Historic Park, an old cemetery, and part of the historic Anza Trail forged in the 1770s by Spanish explorer Juan Bautista de Anza. Dozens of shops and studios there feature arts and crafts for sale.

State Route 82, and our Scenic Byway, begin outside Nogales and immediately head northeast. We stopped on the edge of town in front of a rustic-looking red building. Arizona Vineyards Winery was scripted in peeling paint above the entrance. Just inside, giant concrete vats stood in rows like soldiers at attention. Wooden gargoyles and other 16th-century artifacts rescued from a Catholic church in Bali shared space in a back room with an interesting assortment of Hollywood paraphernalia. A colorfully decorated little bar was set up to entice customers to relax and enjoy the homegrown products. We chatted awhile with Bob Segelbaum, a Phoenix resident, and his friend, visiting from New York. Curious, I asked the New Yorker how he liked Arizona. "I come here to get away from the heat, (PRECEDING PANEL, PAGES 4 AND 5) One of the attractions along the route followed by author Paula Searcy is Tumacacori Mission, where visitors can explore a museum and take a self-guided tour. The lovely old mission was abandoned in 1848 because of Indian raids. (OPPOSITE PAGE) Mission San Xavier del Bac, outside Tucson, is one of the finest examples of mission architecture in the country. This mission also is called the White Dove of the Desert. (ABOVE) The community of Rio Rico spreads below the San Cayetano Mountains, looming in early evening light beneath a billow of clouds.

if you can believe that," he replied seriously. I smiled, a bit bewildered. Where could it possibly be hotter in mid-August than Arizona? But he assured us New York was quite miserable just then, and Arizona seemed just fine. I found Chuck, picked up Kelsey, and called to Michael, who'd been eyeing a life-size cutout of Marilyn Monroe. With several bottles of wine in tow, we said good-bye to our new friends at the winery. The Patagonia Mountains jutted skyward on our right, shrouding several old mining camps, now ghost towns. Among them are Washington Camp, Duquesne, and Harshaw. Ghost town fans with high-clearance vehicles can trek along the old back roads to see them. Our vehicle squeezed between enormous rock outcroppings in Proto Canyon, skirted the edges of several smaller canyons bursting with lush green vegetation, and crossed the Santa Cruz and its tributaries. The highway provides an excellent mountain-biking

TUCSON TO TUMACACORI

course, and we passed several cyclists pumping furiously at the road's edge before the terrain flattened out.

Next came rolling grasslands with beautiful open fields. Cattle-grazing territory. Hollywood movie execs thought this part of Arizona looked more like Oklahoma than Oklahoma itself, and that's why they chose the nearby San Rafael Valley to double for the "Sooner State."

We dropped in next at Patagonia Lake State Park, driving slowly along its narrow road. Spectacular mountains shroud the lake producing a kind of private haven. We saw several families picknicking and countless children frolicking near the lakeshore as waterskiiers raced by. Fishing also is good here, and we agreed to return another time.

Just west of Patagonia lies a prime bird-watching spot: The Nature Conservancy's Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve. The tell-tale cottonwood stands alerted us to its location. Apparently, cold-country birds fly-ing in from the north meet up with their brethren flying in from the south. Kind of a family reunion.

The town of Patagonia lies nearby, quiet and pleasant. We drifted about for a while, wishing we'd made reservations at the Stage Stop Motel. There's a bird aviary in town, but it was closed when we got there. Norman Rockwell would have been proud of this town, with its post office, park, school, and well-maintained little houses lining the main street.

Several miles outside town, we pulled up next to a stone marker announcing that Camp Crittenden once stood nearby.

Established March 4, 1868, the fort protected Babocomari, Sonoita, and the Santa Cruz valley against Indian attacks. The marker told us Lt. H.B. Cushing was killed near there in 1871 during a skirmish with Cochise's Chiricahuas.

Sonoita appeared to us on the horizon, with its large rodeo arena and huge grand-stand. This is prime rodeo country, and Chuck's cousin, a bullrider, competes here frequently. There's a steakhouse on the corner for all the hungry cowpokes and weary travelers, too.

The Sonoita Valley spread out before us, its tall prairie grasses waving in the breeze. We could see the back side of the Santa Ritas visible again now that we had come around the loop with the storm clouds still brewing over the peaks. Michael and Kelsey hopped around excitedly, impressed with the grandstand and glad to be out of the car.

We left Sonoita on State 83, the beginning of the second half of our Scenic Byway, and passed through the Empire-Cienega Resource Conservation Area, which encompasses all or parts of four former ranches. Nature lovers can drive or hike in the area and see birds and other wildlife in natural surroundings. It's a good place for a stretch or a picnic.

Continuing north we saw expansive fields rolling gently away from the road to the east, eventually reaching the Empire Mountains on the horizon. Round green bushes dotted the landscape, reminding me of the tiny green balls my mother used for Christmas crafts. Century plants rose among them, their tall stalks waving in the wind. Ocotillos appeared after a bit, thick across the fields, and the mountains seemed to reach into the clouds.

Too soon a sign announced Interstate 10 and the official end of our scenic drive just ahead. But the fun didn't stop. We decided to explore nearby Colossal Cave, a wonderful dry limestone cavern in which the temperature remains at 70° F. According to legend, gold treasure worth $60,000 lies hidden somewhere within. Stalactites and stalagmites jut from the ceiling and floor, and cascading designs formed from limestone echo a long-forgotten waterfall. Michael explored ahead, but I held tight to Kelsey's hand several deep caverns could swallow up a tyke!

Evening was fast approaching when we left Colossal Cave, so we opted to take I-10 back to Tucson. For those with more time, the scenic pathway through Saguaro National Park East offers impressive views of the multiarmed giants and surrounding desert. Signs clearly point the way to each route, so you just pick the one you want as you leave the cave.

Back in Tucson, we reminisced over dinner about all we'd seen. Excitement still gleamed in Michael's tired eyes as he recalled sitting in the command chair at the missile museum. Kelsey was running on pure adrenaline by this time, talking incessantly about the day's adventures. Chuck and I smiled, anticipating the moment when their heads would sink deep into their pillows and their eyes would shut tight.

Then we could relax and reflect on the day. We'd experienced the culture and history of diverse civilizations spanning thousands of years. We'd seen testaments to mankind's preservation and destruction within miles of each other. And all the while we'd been surrounded by some of God's most beautiful country.

I remembered it all as we kissed the children good night later that evening. As we turned and left them dreaming, I was silently grateful that the deactivated missile still stood, safely stored, in its silo, and the mouse still had several jumps on that pesky cat.

Additional Reading:

From the Apache Trail to Route 66, Arizona's roadways offer the opportunity to explore our state's rich geography, history, and cultural heritage. In the newest Arizona Highways travel book, Travel Arizona: The Scenic Byways, follow along with author Paula Searcy and her family as they traverse Arizona's scenic roads and historic trails, criss-crossing the state from north to south and east to west. Each chapter features a different route and includes mileage information, driving time estimates, and an overview of local attractions. The 96-page softcover book features more than 50 fullcolor photographs and maps. It will be available in mid-April, 1997, and costs $14.95 plus shipping and handling. To order, call toll-free nationwide (800) 543-5432. In the Phoenix area or outside the United States, call (602) 258-1000.