Mileposts/Events

Go to an Indian Flea Market Taste Salsa at Lake Havasu • Take a Wildflower Hike CAMPING ON THE EDGE

It's the location that makes campgrounds special. Or, in the case of the one at Toroweap Point, special - and scary. (If you prefer cushy camping or suffer from acrophobia, do not read any further.) Toroweap's campground is tiny (11 sites), remote (60 miles from paved road), and in rough country (four-wheel drive only). That's scary enough, but the campground's primary attraction, a nearby viewpoint, is guaranteed to set anyone's knees a-shaking. About one mile away at Toroweap Point, the Grand Canyon abruptly drops 3,000 feet straight down to the Colorado River and the whitewater maelstrom of Lava Falls. The drop is so sheer and dizzying that one of the most experienced outdoor adventurers we know had to drop to his knees and crawl out to the edge for a quick look at the stunning vista. For more about camping at Toroweap, contact the Grand Canyon Backcountry Office, Box 129, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023.

RIM SHOT

If you're driving State Route 1260 in east-central Arizona between Christopher Creek and Forest Lakes, watch for a stunning view from the edge of the Mogollon Rim at Al Fulton Point. Named for an unlucky sheepman whose horse took a fatal dive into a sinkhole, the viewpoint and a visitors center sit south of State 260 just west of Milepost 282. Enjoy the view, and consider the one and one-half mile round-trip hike to Fulton's grave.

DOWN, PLEASE, TO GRAND CANYON CAVERNS

It's always 56° F. in Grand Canyon Caverns no matter how much you may have been perspiring up above. And it's dark down there, really dark - at least it is when your tour guide momentarily douses his flashlight just to prove it to you. (We couldn't see our hands in front of our noses.) Visitors board an elevator for the trip 21 stories down into the huge limestone caverns located 27 miles northwest of Seligman on old Route 66 (watch for the big dinosaur out front). One of the rooms is as big as a football field, and limestone formations abound. Forty-five-minute tours are available daily, 8 A.M. to 6 P.M. in summer; 10 A.M. to 5 P.M. otherwise. The cost is $8.50 for adults and $5.75 for ages four to 12. There's a restaurant and small museum on site, and accommodations are available at Grand Canyon Caverns Inn. To inquire, call (520) 4223223.

MUST-STOPS AT THE FOREST

Query: What do you get when you shout at a tree? Answer: petrified wood. Funny, maybe, but for the real scoop on what caused ancient trees to become the great rock logs lying around the Petrified Forest National Park, stop at the visitors centers At each end of the park's 28-mile scenic drive. The Painted Desert Visitor Center, at the north end, shows a brief film that explains how the wood transforms to rock, and the Rainbow Forest Museum, at the south end, exhibits examples of the wood-rocks. Both locations feature displays of the dinosaurs and reptiles that lived in the area 225 mil-lion years ago.

WILDFLOWER HIKE

Purple lupine, golden poppies, pink owl clover, and a field guide of other wildflowers add to the pleasures of a desert hike along the Ballantine Trail in the Tonto National Forest 30-some miles northeast of downtown Mesa off State Route 87. The Best time for the flowers (depending upon the weather) is April and May, and we're told that in some years the lupine is "especially showy." This hike encompasses easy to strenuous stretches. For more about the trail and to ask about current blooms, call the Mesa Ranger District, (602) 3796446.

THE BEST JOSHUA TREES

Spring is the time of year when Joshua trees burst into bloom, transforming the desert into a shimmering sea of pale green. And for our money, the best place to see these tall odd-looking plants is about 20 miles northwest of Dolan Springs alongside the road to Meadview and Pearce Ferry. The Joshuas here are thick, lush, and go on for miles. Even when not in bloom, they are a sight to see. At night they appear ghostlike as the headlights from cars illuminate their gangling forms.

SHOP AN INDIAN FLEA MARKET

If you're passing through Window Rock, the capital of the Navajo Nation, check out the flea market at the intersection of State Route 264 and Indian Route 12. During the warmer months, Navajo craftsmen and a variety of vendors set up stands there offering some great bargains. I found excellent examples of silver and turquoise jewelry, sculpture, and pottery at prices 50 percent less than some places I'd shopped in cities around the state. The market also provides some insight into Navajo culture. For example, several vendors sell herbal concoctions said to cure everything from arthritis to problems with evil spirits. And when you get hungry, try the roasted corn and fresh vegetables which Navajo farmers bring to town daily. The flea market doesn't have set hours, but it's usually operating Wednesday through Saturday. Sam Negri

EVENTS Old Town Tempe Festival

April 4-6; Tempe One of the biggest arts and entertainment festivals in the Southwest, the 20th Annual Old Town Tempe Spring Festival of the Arts features 600 national artists and artisans showcasing their wares on charming Mill Avenue. Thousands of folks show up each year for this event, which also promises continuous entertainment on five stages, a special area for kids' activities, and booths with traditional and ethnic foods. You can empty your wallet on all the goodies because admission's free. Information: (602) 967-4877.

Black Powder Days

April 9-13; Chloride Black powder rifle and revolver contests highlight this event, but there'll be plenty of other diversions, including toe-tapping country bands, gunfight reenactments, and arts and crafts. Then there's the town itself. An old mining camp (silver), Chloride today has a population of about 425. Its attractions include an old false-front general store, a bunch of antique-curio shops, and a nearby cemetery (where one monument offers a poignant mystery in a family called Smith). Admission is free. There is a small fee to enter black powder contests. Information: (520) 565-4109.

Hava-Salsa Challenge '97

April 11-12; Lake Havasu City Is it too hot? Not hot enough? Is the flavor too subtle? Is there an aftertaste? Is there a "perfect" salsa? If so, you'll find it at the Hava-Salsa Challenge, held lakeside in the water-recreation mecca where the transplanted London Bridge shelters an English Village of shops and boutiques. Each year at this event, salsa chefs chop, mix, and cook in colorfully decorated booths, creating what they hope will be a prize-winning recipe. For visitors, salsa tasting is a highlight, but the family-oriented two days are jam-packed with plenty of diversions, including live music, performances by the Mexicali Dancers, and kiddie fun (train rides, Mexican dance lessons, puppet making, a coloring contest, and more). A Beer Booth & Cantina and hot dog and hamburger stands offer additional palate pleasers. Admission is $1 for adults and children; tasting charge is $4, adults, and $3 children. Information: (520) 680-0221.

FRIENDS' PHOTO WORKSHOPS TAKE YOU AROUND THE STATE

Here's an updated schedule for Photo Workshop tours put on by the Friends of Arizona Highways. For more information about the workshops and backpacking trips, contact the Friends at 2039 W. Lewis, Phoenix, AZ 85009; (602) 271-5904.

Slot Canyons: April 29-May 2; May 14-17; May 28-31; June 11-14. Grand Canyon River Rafting: May 2-8; August 11-17; September 5-11. Southwest Indian Ruins: September 13-19; October 12-18. Monument Valley: September 23-27. Grand Canyon North Rim: October 6-11. Canyon de Chelly: October 13-17. Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon: October 13-17. White Stallion Ranch: October 13-17. Northern Arizona Photo Sampler: October 27-31. Secrets of the Navajo Nation: November 2-6. Southern Arizona Sampler: November 11-15.

Waila Festival

April 19; Tucson The Arizona Historical Society puts on this annual celebration of Tohono O'odham social dance music also called "chicken scratch" with five bands on hand. There'll also be craft demonstrations and the chance to try some traditional O'odham foods. Admission is free. Information: (520) 628-5774.

Fishing Derby

April 19-May 17; Greer This annual anglers' competition is based at the Circle B Market. Opening day features fly-fishing and spin-casting instruction at Greer Lodge, a charming retreat nestled on the banks of the Little Colorado River in this year-round recreation wonderland. The derby features fly-fishing instruction on opening day, and there'll be prizes and trophies for those who catch the big guys. Plus there's a bonus: The $2 entry fee puts you in a drawing for a free stay in the Greer area. Information: (520) 735-7540.

Chili Cook-off

April 26; Bullhead City Chili aficionados from all over not to mention 150 cooks from Arizona, Nevada, and California gather each year in this town on the Colorado River to celebrate the infinite variety and pleasures of a "bowl of red" and to participate in the Arizona State Championship event. There will be other edibles available, as well as live entertainment. Check out the water-recreation possibilities, and since cook-off admission is free, you might try your hand in one of the casinos across the river. Information: (520) 763-5885.