MEET THE NAVAJOS

An open-air wooden wagon jostles and creaks as it passes distant terra-cotta buttes and mesas on the Navajo reservation. Horse hoofs slap the asphalt as the wagon transports a handful of tourists from the United States, Belgium, and Central America to the rodeo grounds on the south edge of Page in northern Arizona.

When the ride ends at a replicated Navajo village, "An Evening with the Navajo" begins. The four-hour program, developed by Navajo Wally Brown, presents a look at the Navajo culture through familial, social, religious, and philosophical ceremonies. Brown believes the Navajos have a unique way of life that adds to people's quest for peace of mind and heart.

"Ya'at'eeh," a tall Navajo man says in his native language to the group gathered around him.

"I'm Lorin Cummings. My clan is the Coyote Pass People, and my maternal grandfather is with the Red Running Into the Water Clan. I was born for the white people."

Cummings says his greeting acquaints Navajos with his family history and the fact that his father is white. He then says the expression ya'at'eeh means "it is good."

Lorin Cummings and Ruby Eltsosie then lead the group on a tour around the village, beginning at a "male" hogan. Rarely used during the last 100 years, this type of hogan looks like a man with bent knees lying on his back. In the Navajo world, every object has a male or female spirit, and male hogans, with their squarer angles, are used for ceremonies and council meetings. The group learns the Coyote imparted this design to the Navajo people. Because Navajo society follows matriarchal leadership, male hogans have given way to female hogans.

On the way to a female hogan, the group crowds around a ta'cheeh, a sweat lodge. They learn the small dome-shaped lodge, created to cleanse the body and mind, must be used the same day it is built. Because everything in the Navajo culture is done in multiples of fours, four sets of prayers comprise the sweat lodge's ceremony. The Navajos must exit and reenter the sweat lodge with each set of prayers.

The group passes an old saddle outside the door as it files into the octagonal female hogan in the traditional way, keeping to the left of the cast iron stove in the middle of the sandy floor. Female hogans are round and comforting, the places where families are raised and food is prepared.

Illuminated only by natural light pouring in from the east-facing door and a smoke hole in the ceiling, Ruby Eltsosie displays homemade cooking and fire utensils. With the help of Valerie Singer, she demonstrates various parts of the four-day coming-of-age ceremony for a girl: In between the luxury of having her hair brushed and the grueling task of grinding 25 pounds of cornmeal for a feast, the young girl learns to weave, keep a clean home, and cook. During the celebration with the family, the girl lies down on a blanket, and an older woman "molds" her into a woman by pressing a batten from a loom against her body. Traditionally, relatives would lie down on the blanket next to her at this time for a blessing. Today they lay their wallets, car keys, or checkbooks. The girl then blesses the other young girls, so they, too, will grow into women.

A memorable evening with

Ruby Eltsosie then talks about the matriarchal society of the Navajos. The women are the heads, providers, and nurturers of the households. Men, she says, are merely guests.

"I like that," says John Degrez from Miami, Florida.

"Yes," Ruby Eltsosie responds as the group laughs, "but if you're not good, all the wife has to do is put your saddle outside the door."

While Mary Yazzie sits next to a loom meticulously carding white and black wool to make gray yarn - the color, she says, of an old man's beard the group learns how the loom is built (by the father), how it's used (you've got to give the comb "some oomph" when you push the yarn in place), and how long a weaver takes to create a rug (about two weeks).

At the silversmithing demonstration, Wally Brown explains how Navajos make bracelets and conchas using the sandcast method.

As fry bread sizzles in a cast iron skillet, Lorin Cummings' mother, Lori Cummings, describes how Navajos cook in a clay oven.

the Navajos

She talks about how the Navajos feed the fire a morsel of food in thanks for providing the fuel to cook the meal. In the meantime, the fry bread's appetizing aroma tantalizes the visitors and makes a perfect prelude to the dinner of Navajo tacos, mutton stew, and blue corn mush. "After dinner," Wally Brown informs the group, "the guests will dance for us." True to his word, the Navajo women select some of the visiting men as dance partners, demonstrating a traditional social dance. As everyone reclaims a seat, Lena Judee ends the program on a spiritual note. In a polished soprano voice, she sings the Navajo version of the Lord's Prayer. A feeling of well-being fills the circle, and the group applauds and praises the presentation. Ya'at'eeh,

WHEN YOU GO

"An Evening with the Navajo" program is available year-round based on sufficient participation. Reservations are required (make as far in advance as possible). The program runs from the beginning of May through the end of October.

The horse-drawn wagon that takes participants to the program site leaves at 4 P.M. from the Page-Lake Powell Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau parking lot in the Dam Plaza and returns by 9 P.M. Dinner is included. Page is 282 miles north of Phoenix via Interstate 17 and U.S. Route 89. For more information, reservations, and current fees, contact the Page-Lake Powell Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau, 644 Navajo, P.O. Box 727, Page, AZ 86040; (520) 645-2741.