MILEPOSTS

mileposts Stomp on Wine Grapes, Listen to Old-time Fiddlers, Golf in Mountain Country A HINT OF YESTERYEAR

Things may have been a mite friskier at Prescott's Palace Bar back in the days when Virgil Earp and Doc Holliday made the rounds of its poker tables. But the hamburgers probably weren't as good as they are at today's incarnation, the Palace Restaurant and Bar.

The original watering hole was destroyed in 1900 by a fire that swept through Whiskey Row, but loyal — and thirsty — customers saved the establishment's ornate cherry and oak bar by dragging it into the street along with a few kegs of beer.

Rebuilt from the original plans and with the hallowed bar restored as the focal point, the Palace looks much as it did in livelier days. Dressed in period costumes, the waitstaff helps reinforce the frontier ambience as they serve up plates of American fare.

If you stop by the Palace, be sure to check out the large mural in the dining room depicting scenes from the Western move Junior Bonner, starring Steve McQueen. Note the name of the screen writer, Jeb Rosebrook, and then watch for his byline in the magazine. To inquire about the Palace, call (520) 541-1996.

DISABLED RIDERS TAKE THE CHALLENGE

Thousands of able-bodied visitors see the Grand Canyon from atop a mule's back every year, but many people don't realize that the disabled can make the trip down the steep trail as well. Ten years ago, at the request of the Make-AWish Foundation, Ron Clayton, manager of Grand Canyon Mule Operations, arranged a trip into the Grand Canyon for a terminally ill boy. Since then Clayton has helped nearly 300 disabled outdoor lovers, including paraplegics and the blind, enjoy the same trip.

According to Clayton, most of the riders use regular saddles, but others are provided with custom equipment made by Grand Canyon Mule Operations to fit their particular needs. "Nothing gives me more joy than taking someone to a place they otherwise couldn't go," says Clayton.

These special mule trips are available year-round including holidays. During the peak season, April to December, reservations should be made months in advance. To inquire about costs and other information, call (520) 638-2631.

SURF FOR SOUTHWEST PARKS

Information available from the Southwest Parks and Monuments' data base helps visitors plan trips to 55 different locations, including such Arizona sites as Wupatki National Monument, Saguaro National Park, and Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. The association's Web site takes visitors on a visual journey through 12 of the 55 parks, provides historical highlights on the early days of the park service, and lets them browse through an online bookstore.

Access the Southwest Parks and Monuments Association at http://www.spma.org online. For more information, call (520) 622-1999.

DOWN ON THE FARM

The Phoenix Zoo has found a way to make kids' chores fun: It puts them to work on Harmony Farm. The four-acre farm offers youngsters the opportunity to curry horses, comb cotton, and work in the garden, just like real "farm-hands." Pretty soon they're having such a good time, they forget they're working.

The youngsters also can visit with farm animals and learn about such native Arizona crops as cotton, corn, and beans. They can even spend the night as participants in the Harmony Farm Night Camp, waking to the cock's crow to churn butter, milk goats, and gather eggs for a homemade country-style breakfast before setting out to explore the barns and restored farm equipment.

The Phoenix Zoo is at 455 N. Galvin Parkway. For more information, including costs, and to reserve a spot at Harmony Farm Night Camp, call (602) 273-1341, ext. 7344.

TEED-OFF IN THE MOUNTAINS

Half a dozen or so golf courses around Pinetop-Lakeside in eastern Arizona's White Mountains area entice golfers with scenic greens, mountain views, and temperatures 20 to 30 degrees cooler than in the desert. One of the courses, the Alpine Country Club, sits at 8,500 feet, making it the highest golf club in the Southwest. Another course, the Concho Valley Country Club, challenges golfers with water hazards provided by a meandering spring-fed stream. For more information on golfing in the White Mountains, contact the Pinetop-Lakeside Chamber of Commerce at (520) 367-4290 or visit at www.pinetop.com online.

RELIVE APACHE HISTORY

Historical pictures, artifacts, and a life-size diorama of the Changing Woman ceremony take visitors on a tour through a rich cultural legacy at the San Carlos Apache Cultural Center in Peridot, 20 miles east of Globe.

Additional exhibits, educational programs, and demonstrations are geared to instruct and entertain history buffs of all ages. Be sure to stop in the center's gift shop, where you will find delicate beadwork, "Apache violins," and intricate woodcarvings.

The center is open 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. weekdays, with seasonal changes. Admission is $3, adults; $1.50, seniors; $1, students; free, tribal members and those under age 12. For more information, call the San Carlos Apache Reservation at (520) 475-2894.

EVENTS Territorial Capital Days

People come from all over the state to enjoy the annual corn dinner at Chino Valley's First Territorial Capital Days. Chino Valley's on State Route 89 about 10 miles north of Prescott. The dinner, featuring sweet corn and Angus beef, begins at 4 P.M. on Saturday, long Enough after a kick-off pancake breakfast to have your appetite back. Between the meals, you won't want to miss the big parade. Local live entertainment and a rodeo round out the activities. Call for prices. Information: (520) 636-2493.

Heritage Days

September 10-12; Winslow Native American dancers representing multiple tribes help kick off a weekend of art and entertainment by heading the Third Annual Heritage Days Parade in Winslow. The town sits 184 miles northeast of Phoenix (and close enough 50 miles to the Petrified Forest that you will want to include a visit). Other event activities include a softball tournament, a kids' carnival, and an amateur talent show. Country and Latin music and other live entertainment run continuously from 10 A.M. to 6 P.M.

Event activities run from 9 A.M. to 10 P.M. on Saturday and 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. on Sunday; admission is free. Information: (520) 289-5714.

Cowboy Poet Roundup

September 17-19; Safford-Thatcher If you want to hear real cowboy poetry, the 6th Annual Gila Valley Cowboy Poet Roundup is the place to be. Held at the Graham County Fairgrounds, the event features the poetry and songs of real-life cowboys. Other family-oriented entertainment includes pony rides, hay rides on horse-drawn wagons, and a cowboy breakfast cooked over an open fire.

"It's a comeand-go festival atmosphere dealing with the life and times indigenous to the West," said poet Skelly Boyd.

Call to confirm dates. Admission is free; the breakfast costs $3. Information: (520) 428-2511.

A Feast for the Eyes

September 25-26; Flagstaff Have you ever seen an artist blowing glass?

The second annual openstudios tour in Flagstaff invites art lovers to visit the homes and studios of 50 artists from the Artist's Coalition of Flagstaff. The free self-guided tour takes visitors into the artists' workspaces and features demonstrations on contemporary quilting, encaustic monoprinting, silversmithing, weaving, ceramics, and painting. Participating artists will show one example of their work at the exhibit "Appetizers for the Visual Feast," giving visitors an opportunity to preview the weekend's attractions. Admission is free. Information: (520) 527-1222, ext. 322.

Old-time Fiddler's Contest

September 25-26; Payson If you've ever wanted to see a fiddle being made, don't miss the 29th Annual Old-time Fiddler's State Championship Contest. The statewide fiddle showdown, held in Payson's Rumsey Park, provides continuous entertainment, including cross-tune and trick and fancy competitions. Other activities include a 21-fiddle salute, cowboy poetry, and traditional arts and crafts. Gates open at 9 A.M. Admission is $4, adults; $2, ages six to 12; free, under six. Information: toll-free (800) 672-9766.

Harvesting of the Vine

September 27-28; Elgin You can take a turn squishing grapes between your toes at the 15th Annual Harvesting of the Vine celebration on the banks of the Babocomari River in southern Arizona wine country. The king and queen of the grape-stomping competition will walk away with stained feet and crowns for their efforts. Along with sample tastings of Arizona wines, oenophiles can cleanse their palates with a variety of Southwestern foods. Live music by the Dixie Side-winders and Andy Hershey Country Western Band complete the festive occasion.

The Village of Elgin Winery is 30 miles east of Sierra Vista at the junction of State Routes 82 and 83. Activities run from 11 A.M. to 4 Р.М. Admission is $10, adults; free, children. Information: (520) 455-9395.

PAINT IT OR PEN IT

Next month's exciting new Friends of Arizona Highways workshops on painting and travel writing will be led by professionals from the magazine.

Gary Bennett, the magazine's former creative director, will join artist Lewis Lehrman in the "Southwest Landscape Painting" workshop to be held October 2 to 7 in the red rock country of Sedona and the old mining town of Jerome. Bennett will assist workshop participants working in oil, and Lehrman will teach watercolor. The instruction will focus on color, composition, and technique.

In the writing workshop, "Move Over Hemingway," to be held October 9 at a Scottsdale location, Arizona Highways Editor Bob Early will cover the fundamentals of writing feature articles and offer tips on selling work to magazines.

For more information about these workshops and a complete schedule of Photo Workshops, contact the Friends of Arizona Highways, P.O. Box 6106, Phoenix, AZ 85005-6106; (602) 271-5904 or toll-free (888) 790-7042.

Here are Photo Workshop dates though November:

Following are the remaining backpacking tours for the rest of the year: