BACK ROAD ADVENTURE

In places, and some of the turns were paper-clip tight. Driving slowly because of the road proved beneficial for another reason as well. Those mountains comprise a virtual outdoor zoo of bobcats, mountain lions, and - most of all - mule deer. The deer were especially plentiful. At one point, we turned a corner just as a doe bolted in front of our car. Only by mashing the brakes did we avoid hitting her. Later we engaged in a race with three playful deer. They foraged in a shallow gully that paralleled the road when we came into view. Evidently excited to see us, they ran alongside our car for several hundred yards. We drove 20 miles per hour, but the deer stayed with us, bounding and darting among the trees with exhilarating speed. At the start of Pinery Canyon, our hearts got a little more exercise on a twoto three-mile side trip on FR 42D to Barfoot Peak, elevation 8,826 feet. Getting there meant driving up a steep, rock-studded road and making a hard hike to the summit it's drivable with fourwheel drive - but the effort proved worth it. The view was humbling and top-of-the-world thrilling. The trees below made a broad blanket of green, solid for miles of undulating hills, deep depressions, and surging mountain peaks. Setting the eyes at a deeper distance, we saw the desert floor, a ripple of purples, blues, and reds, each color muted beneath a layer of white dust thrown up by the wind. The rush of it caused the trees to bow, and its howl required raised voices to be heard. McCain reminded me that in the Apache tongue, the word Chiricahua means "big mountain."

George Crook and his successor, Gen. Nelson Miles, had subduing the Apaches. Stand on one of the peaks of the Chiricahuas and examine the labyrinthine difficulty of the terrain. Then imagine being told that Cochise and his men had attacked a party of settlers on the valley floor and disappeared into the range, and it's your job to round them up. Of course, the great chief knows every corner and side canyon better than you know your own home, so good luck. Not far from Barfoot we come to Rustler Park, one of the Chiricahuas' most popular summertime campgrounds. In May and June, it's decorated with a poet's helping of wildflowers, but a hundred years ago it was full of rustlers. They used it as a hideout to conceal stock while altered brands healed and the interest of lawmen cooled. FR 42 required less driver attention as we neared the bottom of Pinery Canyon. The road intersects State Route 181 and 186 near the entrance to Chiricahua National Monument. The drive from Portal is 24 miles and takes about two hours or longer, depending upon how many times you stop to savor the scenery spread out before you. Return to Portal or continue 36 miles to Willcox for overnight accommodations. Camping is available at Chiricahua National Monument and in the national forest.

To reach San Simon, drive 42 miles east of Willcox on Interstate 10 and take the San Simon exit, No. 382. The 22-mile road from San Simon to Portal is paved for only the first 8.3 miles, but it remains easily passable. Forest Service Road 42 is in good shape in dry weather, but it becomes slick after a rain. For the latest information, call the Forest Service's Douglas Ranger District, (520) 364-3468. Maps of the mountains are available at the visitors center of: Chiricahua National Monument, (520) 824-3560.

TIPS FOR TRAVELERS

Whether traveling in the desert or in the high country, be aware of weather and road conditions, and make sure you and your vehicle are in top shape and you have plenty of water. Don't travel alone, and let someone at home know where you're going and when you plan to return. Odometer readings in the story may vary by vehicle.

Whether traveling in the desert or in the high country, be aware of weather and road conditions, and make sure you and your vehicle are in top shape and you have plenty of water. Don't travel alone, and let someone at home know where you're going and when you plan to return. Odometer readings in the story may vary by vehicle.