MILEPOSTS

Camp with Your Horse, Enjoy a Greek Festival, Browse a Cowboy Crafts Show CAMP COWBOY-STYLE

An overnight horseback camping trip on the Fort McDowell Indian Reservation 20 miles east of Phoenix takes campers through 20,000 acres of desert wilderness to the cottonwood-lined banks of the Verde River. Along the way, lucky participants might see herds of wild horses roaming the hills or even a bald eagle soaring on the thermals.

Fort McDowell Adventures offers the year-round treks for groups of four or more. Wranglers provide the camping gear; meals include a sizzling steak dinner and hearty cowboy breakfast. The cost is $150 per person and up for longer trips. For more information, call Fort McDowell Adventures at (480) 816-1513.

TOMBSTONE'S EPITAΡΗ

Once kept busy reporting the deeds of desperados and accounts of the "town too tough to die," the Tombstone Epitaph continues printing tales of the Old West today. Although the 1880s printing presses have been replaced with modern technology, visitors can see several vintage presses and other equipment used by the paper during the past 100 years. The newspaper opened under the direction of John P. Clum in 1880. While there (9 S. Fifth St.), pick up a reprint of one of Tombstone's early papers, such as the edition detailing the shoot-out between the Earps and Clantons at the O.K. Corral in 1881. The newspaper office and exhibits are open daily from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. Admission is free. For more information, call (520) 457-2211.

TUCSON WALKING TOURS

Stroll through a century of architectural history under the blue skies of Tucson on the Arizona Historical Society's tour each Saturday morning. The easy two-hour jaunt takes visitors through the houses lining the streets of old Tucson. The years covered on foot begin with the establishment of Tucson as a Spanish fort in the 1770s and end with the turn-of-the-century residences of Anglo settlers. La Casa Cordova, one of the featured homes, is among the oldest buildings in Tucson. Restored as a Mexican heritage museum with fully furnished period rooms, La Casa Cordova offers insight into the lives of the various Mexican families who lived there. The tour begins at the Sosa-Carrillo-Fremont House, which was built circa 1880. Before setting out, walkers watch a slide show while munching Mexican sweet rolls and sipping coffee. The walks begin at 10 A.M., Saturdays, November through March; the cost is $5. For more information or to make reservations, call (520) 622-0956. - Kathleen Walker

TRAVEL BY TELEVISION

Tour Arizona, remote control in hand, with the new 22-minute video Arizona Explorer, filmed by the Arizona Office of Tourism at various locations throughout the state. The video takes viewers through a diverse collection of Arizona communities and seven travel regions, including Phoenix, Tucson,

FIVE NEW FALL BOOKS FROM ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

Grand Canyon: Time Below the Rim (hardcover, $48.95) reveals what is missed by most visitors. Many stop and peer for just three hours, or travel a short distance if they walk into the Canyon at all. Such efforts won't reveal the magnificence of what's below the Rim-waterfalls, streams, thousands of side canyons, ancient rock formations, and the remains of prehistoric cultures. The book's photos and text make it the next best thing to hiking deep into the Canyon.

Grand Canyon Stories: Then & Now (softcover, $10.95) recounts the escapades and intrigue involving river runners, adventurers, the honeymoon couple who disappeared, and the West's biggest liar, and presents personal glimpses of individualists whose lives were shaped by the Grand Canyon, including a pathfinder, a rescuer, and a lady mule wrangler.

Never Give a Heifer a Bum Steer (softcover, $7.95; available mid-November). Marshall Trimble, Arizona's official state historian, finds humor and irony in the everyday goings-on in his hometown of Ash Fork.

Into the Unknown: Adventure on the Spanish Colonial Frontier (softcover, $7.95; available November 1). The seventh in our Wild West Collection brings together stories of adventurers who were lured and sometimes driven by the appeal of the unknown.

The Best Alphabet Book in the Wild West (hardcover, $14.95). Learning their ABCs will excite children as they play hidden letter games and become friends with critters of the West.

All books are available online at www.arizonahighways.com and in bookstores. Or, to order directly, call toll-free (800) 543-5432. Shipping and handling charges will be added.

Bisbee, Prescott, and Yuma, giving a brief rundown of what there is to see and do.

The video is available for $10 plus $2 for shipping and handling. For more information or to order, call toll-free (800) 800-9918.

EVENTS Harvest Festival

November 5-7; Tucson Watch ceramists throw pottery or an artist blow a glass swan from melted sand. Or chat with a weaver while she creates angora scarves at this bazaar at the Tucson Convention Center. Festival-goers also can demonstrate their own abilities with a series of craft activities. Entertainment includes cloggers, jugglers, and strolling fiddlers. A wide array of food will tempt the taste-buds with everything from pitas to pizzas. Hours are noon to 7 P.M., Friday; 10 A.M. to 7 P.M., Saturday; 10 A.Μ. to 6 P.M., Sunday. Admission is $5.50, adults; $4.50, seniors; $4, six to 12; free, under six. The Convention Center is at 260 S. Church Ave. Information: toll-free (800) 321-1213.

Greek Festival

November 6; Lake Havasu City Celebrate everything Greek in the quaint English Village under London Bridge during the Fourth Annual Greek Fes-tival. Take a turn in a Greek cir-cle dance, peruse the wares of local artisans, and watch tra-ditional dances. You also can sample mouth-watering tradi-tional dishes such as souvlaki (grilled marinated chicken on a skewer), spanakopita (spinach and feta cheese rolled in a flaky crust), and dolmades (grape leaves stuffed with seasoned rice). Festival hours are 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. Admission is free. Information: toll-free (800) 2-Havasu, or (520) 855-4258, (520) 855-8262.

Balloon Festival

November 20-21; Yuma More than 50 hot-air balloons will float gracefully above the Colorado River during the Ninth Annual Colorado River Crossing Balloon Festival. The celebration honors this storied area, originally settled by the Spanish in the 1700s because it was the best place to traverse the lower Colorado River. The multicolored balloons will launch both days at sunrise from the grounds of Cibola High School, 4100 W. 20th St. A desert glow and fireworks display will take place Saturday beginning at 5:30 PM. Admission is free. Information: (520) 343-1715.

Cowboy Christmas Crafts Show

November 26-27; Safford Have your name inscribed on a grain of rice, purchase a barbed-wire wreath, and browse through the home-made jams and jellies at the 19th Annual Cowboy Christmas Arts and Crafts Show. The handmade items at this juried show featuring the work of more than 40 artists fit the "Cowboy Christmas" theme. A diversity of edibles such as green chile burros and home-made cinnamon rolls will be available. The show is at the National Guard Armory, 4001 First Ave. Admission is free. Information: (520) 428-5990.

Wild Winter Nights

November 27-January 10; Litchfield Park Walk the gravel paths of the Wildlife World Zoo under the glow of more than 200,000 Christmas lights. This nighttime

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS AT THE PHOENIX ART MUSEUM

November 6, 1999 January 30, 2000 To begin its 75th anniversary celebration, Arizona Highways will showcase photographic works from three of its most influential contributing photographers: Ansel Adams, David Muench and Jack Dykinga. The retrospective exhibit runs November 6, 1999, through January 30, 2000, at the Phoenix Art Museum. From the early 1940s to the present, the heritage of visual imagery established in the pages of Arizona Highways has set the standards for landscape photography of Arizona and the American West. With their zeal for natural beauty, these three photographers in particular helped define a popular worldwide vision of the people, places, and landscape of the Grand Canyon State.

The Phoenix Art Museum is located at 1625 N. Central Avenue. For more information, call (602) 257-1222.

This excursion affords the opportunity to view the zoo's exotic animals along with larger-than-life lighted animal displays, including flying birds, swinging monkeys, and hunting alligators. Three heated exhibit buildingsfeaturing reptiles, fish, and small mammals will be open during the evening hours. Visitors also can see some of the zoo's nocturnal animals up close at wildlife shows held nightly at 7:30 P.M.

Wild Winter

Nights takes place from

5:30 to 9 P.M.

Admission is $6; free, under age two. For more information, call (623) 935-WILD.

International Christmas

November 28-December 30; Phoenix Forty-five decorated eldarica pine trees will be featured at the International Christmas XIX on the concourse of the Bank One Center. Decorations will represent countries including Bulgaria, Egypt, Ghana, Norway, and Scotland. Other displays will feature an extensive collection of ethnic dolls, wooden carvings representing Santas from around the world by artist Joseph Cabeen, and the Bill Wilbur creche collection. From November 29 to December 10, concerts by local high school, college, and university choirs will be presented weekdays at noon. On Saturday

afternoon, December 4, the Great Arizona

Puppet The-ater Christ-mas Show will offer three

performances; the Piano Box Studio Youth Holi-

day Piano Performance will put on two shows; and the Make 'n Take Ornament/Card Craft Program will be held.

The exhibit is open daily, including Christmas, from 8 A.M. to 9 P.M. Admission is free. Information: (602) 221-1005.