botanical garden

NIGHTLIGHT PHOENIX'S DESERT BOTANICAL GARDEN TAKES ON NEW 'LIFE' AFTER DARK

The octopus cactus lives up to its name with its myriad arms creeping across the desert floor and then turning upward into the darkness. A solitary ground light illuminates the underside of its spiny tentacles, multiplying their number by projecting shadows onto a wall of organ pipe cactuses. The effect appears surreal and a little disconcerting in a place that's more familiar in the daytime. A rustling sound from within the depths of this desert sea monster makes me jump. Suddenly I wish the path weren't quite so dark and deserted.

In daylight the Desert Botanical Garden offers informative tours, interactive exhibits on desert plants, a gift shop filled with desert treasures and even the opportunity to enjoy a restaurant meal surrounded by desert beauty. Situated in Papago Park near the Phoenix Zoo, the garden grows thousands of plants that thrive in desert sunshine, both in Arizona and around the world. Nothing to raise goose bumps in that Darkness, however, transforms this landscape.

The gates close at 8 P.M. year-round, giving winter visitors several hours to explore the garden after the sun sets. The gift shop, plant shop and cafe all close at 5 P.M., but the absence of those daytime amenities proves a small sacrifice in exchange for a unique experience.

Petallike lampposts light the one-thirdmile main trail. Other lights hug the ground, spotlighting individual plants. At night, a yucca looks like a lonely sea urchin. Here and there, lights hang in trees. Filtering through a paloverde, the illumination looks like a cascade of rain, bathing some branches while leaving others dry.

A rabbit breaks from the darkness and scurries across the path, disappearing into the shadows. Looking back up, I see a gnarled saguaro, its lighted face resembling a dragon's likely at any moment to breathe upon me all the heat from a thousand burning summers.

Farther along the path stands a squad of old man cactuses. Peering at them, I wonder for whose benefit they stand guard mine or the other cactuses'?

Up ahead, a brick seating area boasts a ground-level "chandelier" of two lighted century plants. Their angular blades reflect the glow onto some blades while shielding it from others, creating odd geometric designs. Not far from this exotic beauty stands a mob of totem pole cactuses. In the glow of a small light, their knobby arms create the illusion of angry faces. Like the octopus cactus, the totem pole embodies its name best in this dim light.

The curved, scorpionlike tails of senita cactuses reach upward as if attempting to puncture the night sky. As I ponder the fantastic metamorphosis of spiny plant to spiny insect, something lands on my foot. After a hasty back step and a few deep breaths I investigate. The spook turns out to be only a large toad, as emboldened by the darkness as I am jumpy. I set my trail map in his path, hoping he will hop onto it so I can see him better against the white background. To my delight, he obliges before continuing on his way.

Moving on, I pass some aloe vera plants, twisting in strange gyrations that remind me of an adolescent dance craze. Nearby, a small grove of waddy trees seems unchanged by the artistry of light and shadow. But as I stand in their midst, an orchestra of countless insects begins a serenade in stereo. Perhaps they sing to a nearby Medusa with her serpentine coiffure, labeled innocently as a chain fruit cholla.A crop of small cactuses at Medusa's feet poke their spiny fingers through the soil, exhuming themselves so as not to miss the nocturnal concert. The label identifying these plants is unreadable in the darkness.

Few of the labels and informative signs are lit, I've noticed. Perhaps for effect?

Resigned to let these desert denizens remain nameless, I cover the last of the trail, briefly wondering if I should have brought a flashlight. I decide I do not regret its omission. After all, I did not come to the Desert Botanical Garden at night to know its inhabitants by scientific names and habits. I came to "feel" them.

Back at the trail's beginning, I nod farewell to the octopus cactus. Its graceful tentacles wave to me, somehow appearing more inviting than menacing now.

Perhaps I will make another nocturnal visit soon. But although I am brave enough to leave the flashlight home, I will definitely bring a friend.

WHEN YOU GO

Location: Galvin Parkway south of McDowell Road in Papago Park, Phoenix.

Hours: 7 A.M. to 8 P.M. May through September; 8 A.M. to 8 P.M. October through April.

Fees: Admission is $7.50, adults; $6.50, senior (60 plus); $1.50, ages 5-12; free, under 5 and DBG members.

Additional Information: (480) 941-1225.