BACK ROAD ADVENTURE

back road adventure Retracing the Prescott to Phoenix Stage Route Kicks Up Dust and Appreciation for the Auto

D uring the Black Canyon Stagecoach's heyday, 1878-98, intrepid passengers climbed aboard in Prescott and - 30 hours later - arrived in Phoenix, dusty, thirsty and sore from the bonejarring ride. Years after railroads and automobiles replaced the old stage line, some evidence of its rugged route remains. I rope in a friend, load up the Blazer and we head out to explore an intact, mostly dirt, portion of the road between Black Canyon City and Mayer. We leave Interstate 17 about 30 miles north of Phoenix at Exit 242, Rock Springs and Black Canyon City, turning left over the overpass and right at the stop sign. Today a small town, Black Canyon City was once just a stage stop called Canon on the Agua Fria River. We decide on a stop of our own for breakfast at the 4B's Cafe, where a hand-painted sign warns: "If you can't wait, don't order."

Off in search of the next stage stop, we continue north through Black Canyon City and turn left onto marked Maggie Mine Road. (We won't see another actual road sign until Mayer.) After 2.5 miles, we bear left at the first fork and come to a "Road Not Maintained" sign. Since our Blazer is four-wheel drive, we continue, but if you're in an ordinary car, skip the Black Canyon City exit and continue on to Exit 248, Bumble Bee, to start this trip.

Lurching over potholes and jouncing over boulders the size of small towns, I consider putting a board across the bucket seats and opening the windows to let the dust roll in then we'd really know how stagecoach passengers felt 100-plus years ago.

Through our rolled-up windows, we see the purple-shaded Bradshaw Mountains to the west as we pass undulating hills covered with paloverde trees and saguaro, teddy bear cholla and prickly pear cactuses. Creosote bushes and desert sunflowers burst like sunshine against gray mesquite and catclaw bushes.

Bouncing around a sharp curve, I picture robbers lurking out of sight, waiting to ambush the stage. Blind turns and hidden canyons along the isolated stage route gave bandits the advantage.

After 5.2 miles, we cross the Bumble Bee-Crown King exit off 1-17. South of the road, cottonwood, willow, salt cedar and sycamore trees form a variegated green ribbon along meandering Black Canyon Creek.

Crossing a short, narrow bridge about 4.4 miles later, we turn right into Bumble Bee Ranch. A working cattle ranch, Bumble Bee also offers horseback riding, cattle drives and overnight accommodations. On the foundation of the former stage stop, knownas Snyder's Station, now sits a saloon used as a rest stop during ranch trail rides.

About a half-mile away, the few buildings that comprise the town of Bumble Bee line the main road. Bumble Bee Trading Post, chock-full of mining antiques, offers a welcome rest stop Tuesday through Sunday. Owner Elissa Fulton dishes up sandwiches and drinks along with stories about the town. She says her stone building was originally constructed as a schoolhouse in 1936, but also served as the town's town of Bumble Bee line the main road. Bumble Bee Trading Post, chock-full of mining antiques, offers a welcome rest stop Tuesday through Sunday. Owner Elissa Fulton dishes up sandwiches and drinks along with stories about the town. She says her stone building was originally constructed as a schoolhouse in 1936, but also served as the town's gathering place. Children attended classes there during the week, everyone partied there on Saturday nights and then came back for church on Sunday mornings. Rested, we continue north for 2 miles, staying left at a small fork. The map identifies what we veered onto as Crown King Road, but don't look for any signs. After another 2.4 miles, we reach a second fork and follow the sign to the right toward Mayer on County Road 259. Climbing up Antelope Hill, we see a century plant with a 20-foot-high bloom growing amid rabbit brush and purple prickly pear cactuses. Traveling about 4.2 miles and crossing the Bloody Basin exit from I-17, we stay on County 259 to the almost deserted town of Cordes, originally known as the Antelope Station Stage Stop. German immigrant John Cordes purchased the stop in 1883, and as local mine operations grew, he added a supply depot, a bank and a saloon. The name changed to Cordes because the post office already had an Antelope Station on its books. Only an abandoned gas

(LEFT) In 1863, bumbling prospectors irritated a swarm of bees near its waters, and Bumble Bee Creek got its name. (ABOVE) The saloon, a well-preserved relic of the past, lies within Bumble Bee Ranch's 74,000-acre spread. (RIGHT) Joe Mayer's 19th-century mercantile has evolved into a haven for antique buffs. Street, turn right, then go two blocks to Central Avenue and turn left to the Old Mayer Mercantile, now an antique store. Joe Mayer purchased the Big Bug Station in 1881 and built the 8,000-square-foot mercantile, dance hall, saloon and barber shop between 1886 and 1892. The hotel across the street, built in 1882, still stands and today houses retirees. Mayer located the stage stop, now a private residence built around the original building, about a half-mile away. To get a look at it from the road, we drive north on Main Street and go left at the second fork onto Stagecoach Road.

station (occupied by a family of quails), an old house and a barn remain of the town that quietly died in the 1950s when I-17 bypassed it. Leaving Cordes, we drive north 2.7 miles, and coming to a stop sign, continue straight ahead on what was 259 (identified on the map as Antelope Creek Road-but, again, don't expect to see signs). Saguaros vanish and junipers, manzanitas, yellow blooming acacias and scrub oak trees begin to appear. Lava rock outcroppings dot the landscape, and large yellow granite boulders look like blocks scattered by giants. These rocks probably provided great hiding places for robbers or marauding Apaches. Lured by the stage stop's cattle and horses, the Apaches usually raided the stations rather than holding up stagecoaches.

Entering the town of Mayer, the road is now paved and becomes Main Street, marked with a real street sign. To reach the stage stop, we go to Miami Returning to Central Avenue, we drive about a mile before turning south onto State Route 69 and following it to connect with I-17 back to Phoenix.

Pioneers traveling between Prescott and Phoenix spent a day and a half jammed into wooden coaches with seven other passengers, jostled on dusty potholed roads, endured freezing cold or searing heat, ate lousy food, waited through delays due to runaway horses and suffered highway robberies. We rode part of the route for just four hours in an airconditioned vehicle, ate good food and didn't see one bandit. Still, we came home exhausted.

Warning: Back road travel can be hazardous if you are not prepared. Whether traveling in the desert or high country, be aware of weather and road conditions and make sure you and your vehicle are in top shape. Carry plenty of water. Don't travel alone, and let someone at home know where you're going and when you plan to return. Odometer readings in the story may vary by vehicle. Travel Advisory: Carry the Arizona Topo Atlas. Additional Information: Black Canyon City Office of Tourism, (623) 374-9797; Bumble Bee Ranch, (623) 374-0002; Bumble Bee Trading Post, (623) 374-5426; 4B's Cafe, (623) 374-5736; Old Mayer Mercantile, (520) 632-4177.