HIKE OF THE MONTH

hike of the month A Rock-hop Along Pumphouse Wash Rewards All-terrain Hikers With Wildlife

Past floods pushed tons of rock down Pumphouse Wash rusty red sandstone, white limestone and gray basalt from pebbles to boulders the size of Volkswagens. No tame trail this in fact, there is no trail the rugged 1.75-mile rock-hop of a hike traverses a mostly dry canyon whose walls change from soaring cliffs to narrow, water-carved passages.

At the base of the State Route 89A switchbacks, midway between Sedona and Flagstaff, a concrete bridge curves high above Pumphouse Wash. The bridge serves as the hike's starting point and the last symbol of civilization before hikers drop down to the secluded canyon and follow it northeast, away from Oak Creek.

Depending on the season, the rocky canyon bottom may be a colorful tangle of grapevine and wildflowers or a barren study in grays and tans with deep, cold pools and the echoing, harsh calls of Steller's jays. In springtime, splashes of blue lupine dot the slopes, and white raspberry blossoms nod from the cliffs. Butterflies float among lavender bergamot, red penstemon, and orange butterfly weed in the summer. In autumn, brightly colored maples and sumacs stand out among the conifers that tower above them.

Don't try this hike during spring melt, when the canyon roars with icy runoff, or during monsoon season, for reasons that become obvious farther upcanyon. Powerful floods have carried massive boulders and pine logs, depositing them there in stacks and snarls. Centuries of storms and spring flows have carved swirling depressions in sandstone bedrock, often filled with water.

roars with icy runoff, or during monsoon season, for reasons that become obvious farther upcanyon. Powerful floods have carried massive boulders and pine logs, depositing them there in stacks and snarls. Centuries of storms and spring flows have carved swirling depressions in sandstone bedrock, often filled with water.

These pools may determine the length of your hike. On a warm day, a dip in the water can be refreshing. (In early spring, the pools will be too deep and cold to be passable; and just before the summer monsoon, most of the pools will have evaporated.) Don't go with a fixed goal. On a hike like this, it's best to keep an open mind.

Pools that may be frustrating impediments or charming attractions for us provide a reliable water source for wildlife. One might see or hear porcupines, rock squirrels, ravens, flickers or canyon wrens. Larger animals, including mountain lions, black bears and deer, roam through the forest above the canyon walls.

About a third-mile upcanyon, high, columnar basalt cliffs mark the Oak Creek Vista overlook. You may see tiny figures clinging to the basalt above this favorite local rock-climbing area. Another third-mile past these cliffs, you will enter a fascinating stretch of sandstone, cut and carved into a network of channels, chutes and basins.

At 1.75 miles, the canyon turns to the northwest and opens up to a grassy park studded with ponderosa pine trees. This makes a good turnaround point for a day hike. But whether you manage a half-mile or 3.5 miles, Pumphouse Wash holds surprises for those who approach it with a sense of awe and adventure.

WHEN YOU GO

Location: 130 miles north of Phoenix.

Getting There: From uptown Sedona, take State Route 89A north for about 13 miles. A little more than a half-mile past Milepost 387, a bridge crosses Pumphouse Wash. Limited parking is available on the west side of the road north or south of the bridge.

Travel Advisory: Early summer and fall are the best times to hike Pumphouse Wash. Please leave the area as lovely as you find it. Minimize your impact on the environment by packing out all litter and burying solid human waste away from the wash.

Warning: There are no facilities or trail markers on this rough terrain hike. Be sure to wear sturdy hiking boots and take plenty of water. Notify someone of your intended plans; this area is not routinely patrolled by Forest Service personnel.

Additional Information: Sedona Ranger District, (520) 282-4119.