HIKE OF THE MONTH

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The San Francisco Peaks'' Inner Basin Trail traverses forests, meadows and volcanic rock.

Featured in the April 2001 Issue of Arizona Highways

Aspen trees thrive within the San Francisco Peaks' caldera.
Aspen trees thrive within the San Francisco Peaks' caldera.
BY: TOM DOLLAR

hikeof the month INNER BASIN TRAIL Near FLAGSTAFF Traverses Forests, Meadows and a Volcanic Caldera

FEW HIKING TRAILS OFFER as much variety as the Inner Basin Trail near Flagstaff. Hikers, mountain bikers, cross-country skiers, amateur geologists, regional history buffs and flora-and-fauna watchers all flock to this very popular 2to 3-mile trail. During spring and summer, wildflowers bloom along roads and trails leading into the San Francisco Peaks' interior valley, or Inner Basin. During the fall, aspen tree groves turn golden, attracting scores of "leaf peepers." And in wintertime, when snow lies heavy across roads and trails, cross-country skiers climb into the Inner Basin to enjoy a ski season that sometimes lasts until midJune. The length of a hike on the Inner Basin Trail depends on how far past the basin one ventures. Although it's somewhat steep, the ascent feels only moderately strenuous if you pace yourself. The trail starts in Lockett Meadow at the end of an unpaved road. Following a primitive rock-strewn roadbed - an ankle-twister for the unwary - the path climbs 1,100 feet through a ponderosa pine and aspen forest. Ravens, Abert's squirrels and Steller's jays sound their alarms from tree-branch lookouts. Elk and wild turkeys live deep in these woods, and in fall when berries ripen, you may even encounter a black bear fattening itself for hibernation on juicy kinnikinnicks. On your way up, especially after rain, stop and sniff the bark of a mature ponderosa pine. Some say it smells like vanilla; others pick butterscotch. After 1.5 miles, the Inner Basin Trail comes to a junction at Jack Smith Spring, where water flows from an untreated tap. Historically, water has been scarce in Flagstaff, and beginning in the 1950s, wells that now supply the city were drilled throughout the Inner Basin. A few cabins clustered near Jack Smith Spring protect equipment used to pump and transport water off the mountain. The largest cabin serves as a winter shelter for federal and state snow surveyors who compute the watershed's spring runoff, which in turn predicts the region's water supply. Continuing past Jack Smith Spring for another half-mile, the trail enters the Inner Basin. A quiet approach by hikers arriving near dawn or dusk may surprise elk grazing among succulent meadow grasses and forbs. And those who practice bloodless "still hunting," sitting motionless and remaining soundless, may be rewarded with close-up glimpses of birds, black bears, deer and other wildlife. The cataclysmic forces that shaped the San Francisco Peaks appear quite evident within the Inner Basin's volcanic caldera, formed by glaciers into a broad U-shaped valley. Students of geology will note this unique carving effect of moving ice as well as the variously sized rocks and boulders scattered upon the valley floor by the melting glacier. Contrastingly, valleys formed by water look more V-shaped, and the rocks and boulders look as if they've been sorted according to size. From the meadow, at approximately 10,000 feet, you can trace the remnants of old lava flows. And, although heavy aspen forests cover most inclines, cleared tracks on high-peak talus slopes show where powerful avalanches leveled everything in their paths. The trail offers something for everyone - geology buffs, birders, wildlife watchers, leaf peepers and just plain old outdoor enthusiasts. AH THIS ROAD SERVES AS THE ROUTE FOR THE WATERLINE FROM SPRINGS IN THE INNER BASIN OF THE SAN FRANCISCO PEAKS TO THE OITY OF FLAGSTAFF. A NON-MOTORIZED ROUTE (EXCEPT FOR ADMINISTRATIVE PURPOSES), IT IS POPULAR WITH MOUNTAIN BIKERS, HIKERS, AND HORSEBACK RIDERS SO PLEASE BE ON THE ALERT FOR EACH OTHER, ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE A MOUNTAIN BIKER HEADED DOWNHILL! PREPARE TO STOP QUICKLY, AND RESPECT EACH OTHER'S RIGHT OF WAY AS YOU ENJOY THIS SCENIC ROUTE. THANKS!

To enjoy this hike with the Friends of Arizona Highways on Saturday, April 14, contact the organization at (602) 712-2004. The number of participants will be limited.