BACK ROAD ADVENTURE

adventure A CHEVELON CANYON LAKE LOOP Navigates 50 Miles of BACKCOUNTRY in the APACHESITGREAVES National Forests

THE LIKELIHOOD OF SIGHTING ELK SUFFICES as good reason to take a daylong loop drive around Chevelon Creek on the Mogollon Plateau. The big animals live in the ApacheSitgreaves National Forests north and east of Payson.

But you'll find other attractions, too. Local resident Al Ayers and I hiked to a lake so hidden it'd make a fine setting for a horror movie and explored mysterious, deep-walled Chevelon Canyon. We also had the odd experience of watching through binoculars as a family encountered a giant rattlesnake on a hiking trail.

On a warm summer morning, Ayers and I drove 37 miles east of Payson on State Route 260 up onto the Mogollon Rim. Turning north onto Forest Service Road 99, we continued about 4 miles on FR 99 to FR 170, which runsdriving another 2.5 miles into Chevelon Canyon. The right side of the road didn't have a guardrail, and when we stopped at a wide spot to look down, we spied a car's mangled remains wedged into the bottom of the gorge, about 150 feet below the road.

An almost sheer canyon wall opposite us offered the improbable sight of pine trees growing out of its rock shelving. The sense of danger increased due to the pronounced twists in the road's descent to Chevelon Crossing and the gathering of monsoon clouds.

I thought of Lorenzo Sitgreaves, one of the area's first explorers, who in 1851 led a party from New Mexico in search of a route to California. On October 2, he wrote: “The river here receives a tributary known among trappers as Chevelon's Fork, from one of that name who died upon its banks from eating some poisonous root. Their confluence produces an intricate labyrinth of sloughs, in which we became involved, and were forced to encamp, not finding an outlet until late in the day.” The next day, his party was trapped again, this time by a “rocky ravine or canyon utterly impassable,” he wrote.

Sitgreaves wasn't exaggerating. The crossing resides in a deep stone chasm that today accommodates a picnic ground and trailhead beneath cave-dotted cliffs.

Ayers used binoculars to scan the caves for wildlife. His turkey-caller drew prolonged shrieking in response, but echoes made it impossible to determine the direction of the sounds, so we didn't see the turkeys. A little disappointed, we drove a short distance to a walled overlook above the campground to peer down at the creek, the meadow bordering it and the small figures of a family of five hiking along the water. As we watched, we heard a scream. “Ahhhhhhhhhhhh! Rattler!” It was the mother. Ayers rushed to get the binoculars. We saw two boys, about 10 and 12 years old, hurrying toward her, and a huge timber rattler slithering along the trail a few feet away. north through sweetscented forest, passing several water tanks that draw elk, bobcats, bears and wild turkeys. At the 16-mile mark, we stopped at one of these tanks and inspected the tracks in the mud around its edges. “There are all sorts of fresh elk prints here,” said Ayers, who's explored the roads and trails of Rim Country for 60 years. “Some of them are pretty good size. We'll run into them sooner or later.” We pressed on, turning left onto FR 504 and “It hissed at me when I went by!” the mom shouted. “I almost stepped on its head! Oh, my gosh!” The father, holding a baby, ran forward and got too close, forcing the rattler to lift its head and lean forward as if to strike. “Stay away!” Ayers shouted down the slope, his voice carrying on the crisp air. “Don't get close!” The father stopped on his toes and backed up. The whole family watched the snake for a few moments before continuing on. “I’ve run into an awful lot of snakes,” Ayers said, “but that’s the biggest rattler I’ve seen in the wild. I’d say it was 5 feet, easy.”

With our vicarious excitement concluded, we picked up FR 169 just past the crossing and followed it south, beginning the loop back to State 260. Our next detour, 38 miles into the trip, led us onto FR 169B and a campground above Chevelon Canyon Lake. We ate a hearty lunch at a picnic table under the pines before hiking to the lake on a mile-long jeep trail too rugged to drive.

The sight proved worth the walk. The lake lies hidden at the bottom of a silent canyon surrounded by tall, pine-shrouded cliffs. Monsoon storm clouds had thickened, turning the water black, and the plop of isolated raindrops dimpled the lake's surface.

Several rowboats had been left on the shore, paddles at the ready. One had a fishing pole hanging off the back. I like spooky lakes, and this scene-clouds, imposing cliffs, mysterious boats-made it good and spooky. Ayers liked how lonesome Chevelon Canyon Lake feels. "This is almost total seclusion compared with all the other Rim lakes," he said.

The walk out, up the steep, rock-strewn slope, took 40 minutes. But a light rain refreshed us as it washed away our sweat. We felt even better a few moments later, driving south again on 169, when a herd of elk darted in front of our truck. They are tremendous creatures-swift, powerful, proud and afraid. They run in short steps, almost jumping, seemingly without effort.

Ayers mashed the brakes and we parked a moment to study them.

"See that bull," he said, pointing. "He's lost one side of his antlers. He might've had them broken off."

The bull stopped to eye us, letting his females and young ones elude the danger. I used the binoculars to eye him back. Driving through a seemingly empty forest and suddenly seeing these huge living things is really quite a thrill.

At the 51-mile mark, we took our final detour onto FR 100 to West Chevelon Crossing, another picturesque place where the road corkscrews into a gorge, over a bridge and out again. From there we picked up FR 34 south, which curls around to intersect with 169 and FR 300, the Mogollon Rim Road.

The last few miles, before reconnecting with 260, run parallel to the Rim, passing several dramatic overlooks. They're a great way to conclude a long day of exploration in a challenging and exciting forest. Although WARNING: Back road travel can be hazardous if you are not prepared for the unexpected. Whether traveling in the desert or in the high country, be aware of weather and road conditions. Make sure you and your vehicle are in top shape and you have plenty of water. Don't travel alone, and let someone at home know where you're going and when you plan to return. Odometer readings in the story may vary by vehicle.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: ApacheSitgreaves National Forests, Black Mesa Ranger District, (928) 535-4481.