HIKE OF THE MONTH

hike of the month At Robbers Roost in RED ROCK COUNTRY, trekkers might encounter GHOSTS of HORSE THIEVES or a BLACKTAIL RATTLER

Among the red rocks outside Sedona, a winderoded archway creates a natural window to the past at Robbers Roost.

[OPPOSITE PAGE] A modern stone wall echoes the fortifications of the ancient Sinagua Indians that once occupied the cave.

NOT FAR WEST-NORTHWEST of Loy Butte, a familiar Sedona landmark, my brother Galen and I set out from a makeshift parking lot to find the legendary Robbers Roost.

Heading south through an open space at the top of the ridge spur, we came to an unmarked trailhead, barely distinguishable from the surrounding terrain. The trail descended, gently at first, then a bit steeper, going from mostly soil to rocks. We entered a juniper-filled arroyo, then climbed a hundred yards or so to a grassy bench. Natural steps carved in the red rock climbed to the butte's northeastern side at a moderate angle. Passing a stone outcrop on our right, we swung east onto a level stretch. Here the trail dropped onto a south-facing ledge roughly 30 feet below the broad, flat summit. To our left, the cliff fell away, revealing an extensive vista that swept south to distant mountains. A huge opening loomed before us as we rounded the corner.

There stood the mouth of Robbers Roost.

Galen and I had ventured several miles west of Sedona to explore this dramatic cave. We fully expected to encounter the ghosts of horse thieves, cattle rustlers and moonshiners in this cool, dark fastness. Local legend insists such villains had sought to hide from the law in this secret place, although we couldn't pin down any names or other specifics.

The cave's eroded round entrance measures 6 feet in diameter, while the interior covers roughly 20 feet from front to back, 40 feet in width and 15 feet in height. Modern hands had stacked stones atop the ruined Indian wall that spans the cave's mouth. A door, steps, separate room and firepit also were added later.

We sat before the cave mouth on a full-moon evening. To the east, Loy Butte became indistinguishable from the dark background of the Red Rock-Secret Mountain Wilderness. Mingus Mountain appeared as a soft shadow on the southern horizon. Bats darted back and forth along the cliff face.

Periodic raids by the resident robber, a ringtail, disturbed our sleep that night. The mischievous, monkeylike antics he directed toward our camping gear were both endearing and aggravating.

In the morning, we circumnavigated the butte's base. The way down led from the northeastern end of the butte across a south-facing slope of grass, prickly pear and a mixture of juniper trees and other dwarf conifers.

We curled around to the west, entering an area where house-size blocks of rock had fallen from the cliff above. Galen, tapping with one of his walking poles, elicited a telltale warning sound. There, only a yard or so in front of him, lay a large blacktail rattlesnake.

Rather than coiling and striking at us, the blacktail found a shallow slot in a tablelike rock and did his best to hide.

From the boulder field, we worked our way back and forth along the sandstone layers. When we reached Robbers Roost, the strength of the midday sun forced us to restrict our activities to the cave's shaded interior. I took a nap after lunch and dreamed we were outlaws, mindful of the lawmen waiting for us to make a sudden break from our hideout.

But when I woke, I sensed only the hollow, eternal stillness, and any outlaws or lawmen who had been there had become whispers in the wind. All For families, novices and experts, Arizona Hiking: Urban Trails, Easy Paths And Overnight Treks features a trail mix ranging from urban-area preserves to the Grand Canyon. The book brims with how-to and where-to-go information on more than 70 hikes, plus 120 color photos. To order ($16.95 plus shipping and handling), call (800) 543-5432. Or use arizonahighways.com.