DESTINATION RedBuck Ranch

destination REDBUCK RANCH City-slicker LUXURY at an Exclusive Desert GETAWAY

THE SONORAN DESERT COMES ALIVE IN THE early spring along the winding, unpaved roads north of Scottsdale. Brilliant Mexican goldpoppies and purple lupines carpet the terrain, heralding Mother Nature's springtime rejuvenation and portending the colorful retreat that lies just around the bend. Past the ranch-style wooden welcome sign, an old gray horse greets visitors and nods his head in the direction of a bright red stagecoach. Wait a minute-a stagecoach? The RedBuck Ranch, a one-couple-at-a-time bed and breakfast, sits amid the uncluttered splendor of the Sonoran Desert backcountry northeast of Phoenix. The RedBuck's owners, Billie Shepherd and Johnny West, welcome guests who yearn to get away from the city traffic and noise for some private downtime and relaxation. The main house looks like a scene from "Bonanza"-outfitted with comfortable leather couches, a fireplace and saddles hanging from a huge lodgepole pine post, reminiscent of the Cartwrights' spread, but with 21st-century creature comforts. The aroma of freshly baked cookies wafted through the main room. West explained, "We like to greet all of our guests this way." The ease with which West and Shepherd introduced themselves made it seem like they've been doing this for most of their lives. But this unconventional couple from distinctively different backgrounds created the story of RedBuck Ranch, a tale of city girl meets country cowboy. Shepherd grew up traveling the world as the daughter of a U.S. Air Force captain, while West's family ran a dairy farm in Arizona. When Shepherd and West met in 1993, they found that despite their differences, they shared something in common: a love of the desert. The couple wanted the best of both worlds and searched for what they term "the perfect spot," a place in the desert where they could live with Johnny's beloved horses, Red and Buck-the inspiration for the ranch's name. In 1994, they found that perfect spot: a 5-acre patch of desert bordering the Tonto National Forest where West used to ride Red. They bought it immediately. Living in a horse trailer on the property for six months, and then "moving up" to a fifth-wheel trailer, Shepherd and West cleared the land-mostly by hand-and built the main house with help from family and friends. "I had the place ready for six weeks before we moved in. Billie came over from the trailer every night after she got home from work to decorate. She'd hang a picture here and there. She wanted everything just so," West said.

"Real cowboys don't live in this kind of luxury, but she wanted the best of both worlds," West said. And just as the couple envisioned, the RedBuck Ranch turned out as more miniresort than B&B.

Outside the main house, a flagstone patio leads to a manicured green lawn that stretches to a picnic and campfire area. On most days, cattle amble up to peek at their two-legged neighbors across the fence that separates the ranch from open range. Because the ranch borders the Tonto National Forest, mule deer, range horses, bald eagles, jackrabbits, javelinas, sandhill cranes and roadrunners appear regularly.

The latest additions to the ranch, a sparkling swimming pool and Jacuzzi spa, offer a private spot where couples can stargaze and listen to coyotes howl. The gentle burble of a small waterfall echoes the soothing sounds of a mountain stream.

The latest additions to the ranch, a sparkling swimming pool and Jacuzzi spa, offer a private spot where couples can stargaze and listen to coyotes howl. The gentle burble of a small waterfall echoes the soothing sounds of a mountain stream.

An outdoor cooking area with a firepit allows guests to grill dinner or simply roast marshmallows under the desert skies. Or, if requested, West will fire up his barbecue for a personal cookout. Each morning, Shepherd and West treat their guests to a three-course breakfast.

From the Hideout, a 1997 addition that rises off the desert floor, the Mazatzal Mountains seem close enough to touch. Giant saguaros dot the foothills, pointing the way to a spectacular view of Four Peaks. And due south, Weavers