EASY SUMMER HIKES

EDITOR'S NOTE: The theme for this collection of hikes was inspired by an indolent hippie friend of mine. Every time I was planning a hike, she'd ask to tag along. But when I'd tell her the length of the trail, or the elevation gain, she'd sigh and say, "No, thanks." Eventually, out of self-interest I suppose, she said: "You should do a story about hikes for the inherently lazy." And so we are. But before you head into the great outdoors, you need to make sure the coast is clear. If it is OK to leave the house, call ahead to make sure the place you're headed to is open. At press time, many of our public lands were, but all of that could change at any moment. Finally, commit to the Leave No Trace recommendations for being outside during COVID-19 (see page 21). Bottom line: Please pack a thinking cap and do what's right.
SANDYS CANYON COCONINO NATIONAL FOREST
The petrified Permian Period sand dunes on this short hike will end up in your long-term memory. They stand out, but they're not the only high-light. The views of the San Francisco Peaks are pretty incredible, too. You'll get your first glimpse of the mountains a few minutes into the hikejust past the side trail that shortcuts to a rock-climbing area. From there, the wide dirt path winds through an open ponderosa forest along the rim of Walnut Canyon. After about 20 minutes, it drops into Sandys Canyon, where the ground cover thickens and a grove of quaking aspens appears. Beyond the trees, the trail gets rocky, like a gravel driveway, and spills into the bottom of Walnut Canyon. At that point, the route levels off and leads to those petrified sand dunes, which are red-hued and conspicuous. The trail ends at its intersection with the Arizona Trail, which goes north to Fisher Point and southeast to Marshall Lake. If you have the time, extend your finish line. If not, enjoy the short-but-sweet nature of this easy stroll.
TRAIL GUIDE
LENGTH: 2 miles round-trip ELEVATION: 6,836 to 6,638 feet DIRECTIONS: From Flagstaff, go southeast on Forest Highway 3 (Lake Mary Road) for 5.3 miles to Canyon Vista Campground, which is on the left. From there, continue through the campground a short distance to the Canyon Vista Trailhead. VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None DOGS ALLOWED: Yes (on a leash) HORSES ALLOWED: Yes USGS MAPS: Lower Lake Mary, Flagstaff East INFORMATION: Flagstaff Ranger District, 928-526-0866 or fs.usda.gov/coconino
RAINBOW RIM TRAIL KAIBAB NATIONAL FOREST
There isn't a pot of gold at the end of this trail, but there's something more impressive: the Grand Canyon. Despite the visual impact of a pile of money, the views from this remote trail are even better. They're priceless, and they're unlike anything you'll see in the national park or on postcards or in coffeetable books featuring photos of the most beautiful places on Earth. Holy cow, holy moly, holy... the views are out of this world.
In all, the trail runs for 18 miles from Timp Point on the south end to Parissawampitts Point up north. Those are two of the five major points that jut into the Canyon from the western edge of the Kaibab Plateau. The other three are Fence, Locust and North Timp. With a car-shuttle system or an overnight backpack, hiking all 18 miles is the way to go, but for an easy day hike, it's hard to beat the southernmost segment, from Timp Point to North Timp Point.
The hike begins at a scenic overlook that'll make you think twice about hitting the trail. Why would I ever leave this place? you'll wonder. You'll wonder the same thing at North Timp Point, but first you'll have to get there, and that's hardly a hardship. Within the first 60 seconds, the route makes a 90-degree turn away from the Canyon. It's counterintuitive, but that's the nature of the Rainbow Rim Trail. It winds in and around a series of small, steep side canyons, and it never seems to be headed toward its namesake rim. Eventually, however, it gets there.
After about 10 minutes, the trail veers north, then east through an open forest to a pair of giant, old-growth ponderosas. The first aspen shows up a few minutes later, on the ridge of one of the side canyons.
The canyons, which are a constant along the way, make this trail a lot longer than the straight-line distance between Timp and North Timp points. Napoleon would have built bridges. You'll take the scenic route, which continues downhill to the bottom of a gully that's verdant and damp - by Arizona standards - and thick with old-growth trees.
From the gully, the trail zigzags uphill and then makes a beeline for the rim of the Canyon. There you'll see an incredible panorama that includes Timp Point (to the left), the Powell Plateau, Steamboat Mountain, Great Thumb Mesa and Tapeats Amphitheater, as well as the Mount Trumbull Wilderness to the northwest. It's only a tease, however, because the trail quickly dips back into the forest, which has enough openings in its canopy to allow for some grassy areas below. Look for Kaibab squirrels in the old trees and mule deer all around. There are mountain lions in the area, too, and they like to eat the mule deer. You probably won't see any of the big cats, but you might come upon one of their kill sites. If you do, don't linger. Although pumas rarely attack North Timp Point, accessed via the Rainbow Rim Trail, offers a Grand Canyon view that includes Steamboat Mountain. SHANE MCDERMOTT human beings, there are exceptions to that rule, and they definitely don't like sharing their food. Be smart, and be aware of their presence. That's the point.
The rest of the route continues through the woods and, after about an hour, arrives at North Timp Point. If you're lucky, you have a second SUV parked at Locust Point, Fence Point or Parissawampitts Point. If not, this is your turnaround, but you'll want to hang out at North Timp for a while. Of the rim's five scenic viewpoints, this one is the best. It's Mother Nature's version of a pile of money.
TRAIL GUIDE
LENGTH: 6 miles round-trip (Timp Point to North Timp Point) ELEVATION: 7,611 to 7,657 feet DIRECTIONS: From Jacob Lake, go south on State Route 67 for 26 miles to Forest Road 22. Turn right onto FR 22 and continue 10.4 miles to Forest Road 206. Turn left onto FR 206 and continue 4.9 miles to Forest Road 271. Veer left onto FR 271 and continue 7.9 miles to the trailhead at Timp Point. VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: Ahigh-clearance vehicle is recommended. DOGS ALLOWED: Yes (on a leash) HORSES ALLOWED: Yes USGS MAP: Timp Point INFORMATION: North Kaibab Ranger District, 928-643-7395 or fs.usda.gov/kaibab
RED MOUNTAIN COCONINO NATIONAL FOREST
The old double-decker buses in London, the square in Moscow, the Coke can, Bonnie Raitt's hair, the little girl who was stalked by the Big Bad Wolf ... a lot of icons in this world are red, but in Arizona, "red" is an adjective that usually describes scenic rock formations, especially in the Grand Canyon, Sedona and Monument Valley. Not as famous, but impressive nonetheless, is Red Mountain, which sits about 25 miles northwest of Flagstaff.
According to the U.S. Geological Survey, Red Mountain is one of several hundred cinder cones within a large volcanic field that stretches from Williams to the canyon of the Little Colorado River. The centerpiece of this hike is Red Mountain, which erupted about 740,000 years ago. By comparison, Sunset Crater, the well-known volcano just north of Flagstaff, erupted around A.D. 1085 (see Rising From the Ashes, page 44). This one is much older, but that's not what makes it unique. What's unusual about Red Mountain, which rises 1,000 feet above the surrounding landscape, is that its internal structure is exposed - like a massive geode that's been cracked in half. This one-of-a-kind trail takes you into that core, an area known as the amphitheater. The trailhead is located just off U.S. Route 180, the highway most people take when heading to the Grand Canyon from Flagstaff. However, few passersby ever stop. And that's too bad, because this short hike offers not only scenery, but also a great lesson in geology. Plus, the trail is rated easy, so just about anybody in the car can do it.
It begins with a gradual uphill climb through a field of scattered junipers and piƱon pines. For the most part, you'll be surrounded by open country, which allows for some wonderful panoramic views of the San Francisco Peaks to the southeast, as well as Red Mountain right in front of you. The last half-mile of the hike follows a normally dry streambed. If you look down at the sand, you'll see thousands, even millions, of black, shiny granules, some of which are as big as golf balls. These granules are often mistaken for "Apache tears," which are composed of obsidian, the volcanic glass that was highly valued by ancient cultures for crafting arrowheads, knives, scrapers and other tools. But don't be fooled. What you're actually seeing are the crystals of minerals (pyroxene and Amphibole) eroded from the volcano. Once you get into the amphitheater, take a closer look at the walls and you'll see more of these minerals embedded in the cinders. Eventually, they'll be plucked out by water and wind erosion. Meantime, they're among the many things to explore inside the amphitheater, along with the erosional pillars known as hoodoos - they're similar to what you see in Chiricahua National Monument. As you look around, remind yourself that you're actually standing inside an ancient volcano. It's a rare opportunity. An experience at least as impressive as standing in Red Square or next to Bonnie Raitt.
TRAIL GUIDE
LENGTH: 2.5 miles round-trip ELEVATION: 6,745 to 7,200 feet DIRECTIONS: From Flagstaff, go northwest on U.S. Route 180 for approximately 25 miles to a dirt road at Milepost 247 (look for the U.S. Forest Service sign that marks the Red Mountain Trail). At the milepost, turn left onto the dirt road and continue about a quarter-mile to the trailhead. VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None DOGS ALLOWED: Yes (on a leash) HORSES ALLOWED: No USGS MAPS: Flagstaff, Ebert Mountain INFORMATION: Flagstaff Ranger District, 928-526-0866 or fs.usda.gov/coconino
WOODS CANYON LAKE APACHE-SITGREAVES NATIONAL FORESTS
Hiking isn't usually something that's done on the spur of the moment. Gear, maps, vehicle requirements, trailhead directions, physical conditioning... there's a lot to consider before hitting the trail. The Woods Canyon Lake Loop is one of the exceptions. Naturally, a little planning is necessary, but for the most part, you could wake up on a Saturday morning, expecting to lounge around watching reruns of This Old House, and then think to yourself: I've gotta get off the couch and do something. With about as much effort as it would take to walk around the block, you could head to Woods Canyon Lake. The drive is simple, and the trail is easy, requiring nothing more than a good pair of tennies, some sunscreen and a big bottle of water. That's about it. The trail begins at the Spillway Campground. It's one of the best in Arizona if you can commandeer a site. Adjacent to the campground is a small parking area, which is one option for day hikers, but the space there is limited. Another option is to drive all the way to the lake and park in the lot at the general store - it's the same lot that serves the boat landing. Heads up: Parking spaces are limited at this lot, too. Especially on weekends.
From the pavement, go east and follow the signs toward the amphitheater. Beyond the small structure are some random trails - there's no main trail at the outset - that wind for a few minutes to the campground. Once you get there, veer left toward the lake and look for the Spillway Dam, which is a long, narrow mound of dirt with red rocks on the lake side and green grass on the opposite slope. You'll know it when you see it.
Hop on the dirt path that crosses the dam, say hello to the many fishermen and women who will be angling from the rocks, and head for the woods, which is home to ponderosa pines, Douglas firs, Gambel oaks, bracken ferns, wild roses and this spectacular trail, which is one of the easiest and best on the Mogollon Rim.
Within minutes of entering the forest, you'll start seeing plastic blue diamonds tacked to the trees. Although it's virtually impossible to get lost on this trail, which parallels the shoreline for its entire length, the markers come in handy for those hikers who are directionally challenged and need some reassurance.
In addition to the blue diamonds, the forest brings an unexpected measure of solitude. Woods Canyon Lake was built for recreation, and it can feel congested at times, but the noise disappears quickly beyond the dam, and after about 10 minutes you'll come to a short side trail that leads to the water. Just beyond that junction is a tall ponderosa that's used as a nesting site by great blue herons - look for heron chicks this time of year.
The trail continues in a counterclockwise direction with some gentle ups and downs, but the most you'll ever climb at a time is the equivalent of three flights of stairs. This is an easy trail that conjures up images of Walden Pond. It's not as serene as what Thoreau must have experienced, but by modern standards, it's relatively peaceful.
About 45 minutes into the hike, the trail winds to the end of a slough where you'll see a small creek that feeds the lake. The area around the creek is green, grassy and gorgeous, and it might be the most beautiful place on the trail.
From there, the trail climbs a series of railroad ties toward a bald eagle protection zone. Because eagles like to nest along this shoreline, the trail is detoured around the area from March 1 through August 31. The alternate route is equally scenic, and as you make your way uphill, look up in the sky - in the summer, there's a good chance of seeing the national bird.
The rest of the route continues around the lake, past the Rocky Point Trailhead and back to the boat landing. It's not a long hike, and you won't have worked up much of a sweat, but you'll be glad you rolled off the couch. Nothing against This Old House, but the scenery at Woods Canyon Lake is much more interesting than watching Norm Abram install a floor joist.
At press time, this is the conventional wisdom for safely experiencing the outdoors.
1. YOU AND YOUR OUTDOOR WORLD
You may be asking: Can I go for a hike or walk on the beach right now? Your personal vulnerability, the health of others in your community, access to local and uncrowded spaces, and more play into this decision. Then there are communities and states with either lockdown, shelter-in-place or stay-at-home mandates. Where COVID-19 is spiking, it may not be possible to get out at all, so pay close attention to guidance in your community before heading outside. Then follow physical distancing guidance, meaning staying at least 6 feet away from anyone not living with you.
2. EXPECT CLOSURES
As businesses limit services or direct their staff to work remotely, closures should be expected. The result could be a lack of water, restrooms, campgrounds or other facilities - or even entire areas closed to the public. Many experts are recommending that you refrain from using public restrooms and other open facilities at all right now. Take necessary precautions such as taking extra food and water, learning how to go to the bathroom outdoors and being ready to pack all your trash out with you.
3. PACK OUT YOUR TRASH
With limited staff and services likely in many parks and protected areas, trash and recycling receptacles may not be emptied as often as normal, or at all. This can result in trash overflowing fromreceptacles, becoming litter and harming wildlife. Instead, pack your trash and recyclables out with you all the way home and use your own receptacles.
4. AVOID TIMES AND PLACES OF HIGH USE
Absolutely avoid crowded parks, trails and beaches. Physical distancing applies in the outdoors just as it does anywhere else. To avoid being part of the creation of large crowds and groups at popular outdoor areas, spread out to less popular spots, and avoid times of highest use if possible.
5. PROCEED WITH CAUTION
Keep in mind that as our health care system becomes more overwhelmed, it's important to reduce potential accidents that would add to the stress on firstresponders and medical professionals. As much as possible, stick to activities and areas that are within your regular routine, and take it easy.
6. DON'T FORGET THE LEAVE NO TRACE SEVEN PRINCIPLES
Just because times are tough doesn't mean the Leave No Trace Seven Principles fly out the window. Our natural areas will likely be receiving less attention from staff and volunteers right now. This means our shared spaces need us to act as stewards more than ever. Remember, it is still just as important to prepare for summer weather conditions, stick to trails, dispose of our waste properly, minimize fire impacts, leave what we find, keep a safe distance from wildlife and generally do our best to eliminate impacts.
7. BE CONSIDERATE AND KIND TO OTHERS
We are all in this together. Be considerate of others in the outdoors by ensuring that you practice physical distancing. Be particularly kind to park staff during these challenging times. Help them do their job by doing your part to take care of each other and our beloved outdoors.
Source: Leave No Trace
BISMARCK LAKE COCONINO NATIONAL FOREST
Bismarck Lake isn't a lake - at least not by Minnesota standards. It's more like a pond or a lagoon or a big mud puddle, and it functions as a stock tank, which makes it an important source of water for the resident elk and mule deer. It also serves as a milepost that identifies the end of this trail.
Like the route into Sandys Canyon (see page 17), this is a short hike that hooks up with the Arizona Trail. If you're interested in more distance, the latter extends for about 800 miles to the north and south, but if you need a spur-of-the-moment fix of an evergreen forest, this will hit the spot.
The trail begins with a gradual uphill climb through a world of ponderosas and aspens. After five minutes, it arrives at a small meadow, where you'll catch your first glimpse of the San Francisco Peaks. It won't be the last, and the best is yet to come.
From there, the trail dips back into the woods, and the aspen quotient increases. It stays like that for another 15 minutes, until the dirt path leads to another meadow and the payoff views of the Peaks. There, the trail splits. To the right is the Arizona Trail, and to the left is Bismarck Lake. Go left, and keep your eyes peeled for thirsty elk and mule deer.
TRAIL GUIDE
LENGTH: 3 miles round-trip ELEVATION: 8,589 to 8,817 feet DIRECTIONS: From Flagstaff, go northwest on U.S. Route 180 for 10 miles to Forest Road 151, turn right and continue 6.3 miles to Forest Road 627. Turn right onto FR 627 and continue 0.75 miles to the trailhead. VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None DOGS ALLOWED: Yes (on a leash) HORSES ALLOWED: Yes USGS MAP: Humphreys Peak INFORMATION: Flagstaff Ranger District, 928-526-0866 or fs.usda.gov/coconino
NATIONAL TRAILS DAY
At press time, the American Hiking Society was still scheduled to celebrate National Trails Day on June 6, 2020. The annual event features a day of public events aimed at advocacy and trail service. Thousands of hikers, bikers, horseback riders, trail clubs, federal and local agencies, land trusts, and businesses come together in partnership to advocate for, maintain, and clean up public lands and trails. It's one more reason to get outside and experience the beauty of Arizona. To learn more about what's happening in your neck of the woods, visit americanhiking.org.
POLE KNOLL APACHE-SITGREAVES NATIONAL FORESTS
Most trails are named for canyons, creeks and mountaintops, and some are named for people. This one gets its name from Pole Knoll, the small, round hill where it's located. The "knoll" can be seen for miles, but the "pole" isn't so obvious, unless you're out there in the middle of winter. That's when Pole Knoll Recreation Area becomes a mecca for cross-country skiers. Skiers, of course, carry poles, but so do a lot of hikers, which is why it's included in this roundup.
In all, there are nearly 18 miles of interconnected trails in the recreation area. Many are short and easy, but the Viewpoint Trail (1.3 miles one way) and the Summit Trail (2.1 miles one way) climb almost 800 feet to the top of the hill, where the views of the surrounding White Mountains are worth the energy it takes to get there. Otherwise, the rest of the routes are easy, and easy to follow.
The trails - there's a maze of 12 - are well marked with their respective names, as well as with internationally recognized Nordic ski symbols: A green circle means an easy trail, a blue square indicates a moderately difficult trail, and a black diamond is the most difficult. If you gauge your hikes by elevation gain, the Pole Knoll Trail is easy - it's mostly level as it orbits the hill. However, the U.S. Forest Service gives it a blue square, probably because trekking 6.2 miles at an elevation of 9,000 feet is noticeable, even for people who can touch their toes.
From the trailhead, which can accommodate horse trailers, the loop heads clockwise through an open forest of ponderosa pines and quaking aspens. About 10 minutes in, you'll intersect the Raven Trail - it's the first of many intersections. The second is the Meadow Lark Loop. If you're short on time, this is a quick 2.1-mile hike. Moving on, you'll pass the southern end of the Raven Trail and the Pine Jay Trail. You'll also see a gorgeous meadow to the east - look for elk and mule deer at dawn and dusk.
After an hour of ambling - that's what you do on this trail - you'll see the ski slopes of Sunrise Park Resort to the south, and another big meadow in between. The elevation at this point is 9,186 feet, a whopping 181 feet above where you started. But it's the high point of the hike. It's all "downhill" from there.
Continuing southwest, you'll come to the only tricky part of the trail. Intuitively, you'll think you're headed to Forest Road 112, which is clearly visible up ahead. The trail, however, angles right, a few hundred yards short of the road. It's tough to find, and once you're on it, it's a little tough to follow. But you have options.
You can either bushwhack across the rocky meadow - if you can find the trail - or take The Pole Knoll Trail circles a small hill near Greer in the White Mountains. NICK BEREZENKO the forest road and rejoin the trail 15 minutes later. As long as you keep moving clockwise, you'll eventually see the trail farther west, in a well-marked meadow. The trail skirts the edge of the long grass and then dips into the woods. Listen for mountain bluebirds. Their sounds lead the way.
Ten minutes later, the trail splits. An easier version of the Pole Knoll Trail veers left, and the main route, which is slightly steeper, goes the other way. The two routes reconnect a halfmile later at the trailhead, where you might see hikers and mountain bikers. It won't be long, though, before the skiers start rolling in - winter comes early in the White Mountains.
TRAIL GUIDE
LENGTH: 6.2-mile loop (Pole Knoll Trail only) ELEVATION: 9,005 to 9,186 feet DIRECTIONS: From Greer, go north on State Route 373 for 4.9 miles to State Route 260. Turn left onto SR 260 and continue 2.4 miles to Forest Road 112. Turn left onto FR 112 and continue a quarter-mile to Pole Knoll Recreation Area. VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None DOGS ALLOWED: Yes (on a leash) HORSES ALLOWED: Yes USGS MAP: Greens Peak INFORMATION: Springerville Ranger District, 928-333-6200 or fs.usda.gov/asnf
THE 10 COMMANDMENTS OF HIKING
SHOSHONE POINT GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK
With more than 5 million visitors a year, the South Rim is about the last place you'd expect to experience any solitude. That's what makes Shoshone Point so special. Despite its proximity to the hubbub-it's a 20-minute drive from the village - the point can be as quiet as Toroweap, one of the Canyon's most remote lookouts. You won't necessarily have Shoshone to yourself, but unless a wedding or a birthday party is taking place (that's not unusual), the "crowd" will likely fit in a station wagon. Or maybe you will be alone, and what an experience that is. Unlike some of the other viewpoints along the Desert View Drive (State Route 64), Shoshone Point isn't well marked. In fact, there's no sign at all. Instead, there's a small parking area on the north side of the road, between mileposts 244 and 245. There's also a locked gate just beyond the parking spaces, which will make you think you're about to go somewhere you shouldn't. Don't worry, though. Unless it's posted as closed because of the coronavirus, it's OK to hop the gate and hit the trail without a permit. However, if you want to get married at Shoshone - there are basic facilities, including bathrooms, picnic tables and grills - you'll need a permit from the national park. From the parking area, an easy 15-minute hike winds through an open forest of ponderosa pines to the rim of the Canyon. When you get there, veer left until you come to a narrow promontory that juts out from the plateau. This is where you'll want to hang out. The 180-degree panorama includes Yaki Point, Newton Butte and Zoroaster Temple, among other landmarks. And in the distance, if you know where to look, you can even see Phantom Creek on the North Rim. What you probably won't see are people, and on the South Rim, that's saying something. AH TRAIL GUIDE LENGTH: 2 miles round-trip ELEVATION: 7,187 to 7,369 feet DIRECTIONS: From the entrance station on the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park, go north on State Route 64 (the park road) for 4.1 miles to an intersection where SR 64 turns to the east. Turn right onto SR 64 and continue 2.4 miles to the small parking area on the left. The lot can accommodate approximately eight to 10 vehicles.
VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None DOGS ALLOWED: No HORSES ALLOWED: No USGS MAP: Phantom Ranch INFORMATION: Backcountry Information Center, Grand Canyon National Park, 928-638-7875 or nps.gov/grca
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