Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site

destination HUBBELL TRADING POST Continues INDIAN TRADITIONS and Remains an Oasis of History

SHORTLY AFTER THE RETURN OF THE NAVAJO Indians to their homeland in 1868, after four years of internment in Bosque Redondo, New Mexico, tenacious traders set up shop in the remote northeastern corner of Arizona Territory. These traders provided goods in exchange for Navajo wool, textiles and other handmade wares, forging links for the Navajos to the outside world.

One of the most successful and popular of these Anglo men was John Lorenzo Hubbell, who at the height of his career operated more than 30 posts on the reservation, two wholesale houses and several curio shops on the California coast. Today, the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site in Ganado stands as a testament to the Hubbell empire as the oldest continuously operating trading post on the Navajo Indian Reservation. “Their remote posts were oases in the desert, landmarks in an unmarked wilderness,” remarked Frank Waters about the Navajo traders in his book Masked Gods: Navajo and Pueblo Ceremonialism, first published in 1950. “They were bankers, doctors, interpreters, schoolteachers, art agents, representatives of an encroaching white civilization to the Indians, and champions of Indian tribes against an inimical government.” The Hubbell Trading Post continues to reflect its rich past, still operating much as it did when Hubbell greeted visitors at the door. He opened for business in 1878 when he acquired several ramshackle buildings of a trading post. In 1883 he built the first two stone rooms of the currently existing structure. Two years later, Hubbell sold the post to his business partner, C.N. Cotton, but remained involved in its management. Cotton added the large bullpen with its cast-iron stove and the wareroom to the original building before selling it back to Hubbell in 1895.

Hubbell moved his base of operations to Ganado and began adding more buildings to the 160-acre homestead, including the massive barn, which at the time was the largest barn in northern Arizona; a blacksmith shop; a stone bunkhouse; and his sprawling adobe home. The home resembles the Spanish-style hacienda of Hubbell's boyhood home in New Mexico.

The residence wasn't the only thing that reflected Hubbell's upbringing. He treated his entire empire as an immense feudal patron system, conducting his affairs much in the same manner as a Spanish lord. He employed Navajos to work the gardens and granary. He hired Navajo drivers to run his freight lines, and he brought Mexican silversmiths to the posts to teach their techniques to the Navajos.

Hubbell created the popular market in Navajo textiles, taking apart old blankets to learn techniques, documenting traditional patterns and introducing finer wools and bright colors into the larger rug styles. The pattern called Ganado Red, which came about under Hubbell's influence, ranks among the most significant patterns to come out of this period. It can still be found in abundance in the trading post's rug room.

Don Lorenzo, as he was often called (“Don” being a Spanish term of respect), was known for his generous hospitality; he entertained politicians, prominent artists and famous writers. Many of the visiting artists made gifts of their work to Hubbell, who was an avid art collector. A number of these pieces, including the famous red Conte crayon portraits of Indians rendered by Elbridge Ayer Burbank and dozens of small oil paintings of Navajo rugs representing many artists, hang on the walls of his home and trading post.

politicians, prominent artists and famous writers. Many of the visiting artists made gifts of their work to Hubbell, who was an avid art collector. A number of these pieces, including the famous red Conte crayon portraits of Indians rendered by Elbridge Ayer Burbank and dozens of small oil paintings of Navajo rugs representing many artists, hang on the walls of his home and trading post.

A walk though the preserved 1890s buildings today is a walk through the past. Hubbell's fine early American furnishings still grace the five-bedroom home, which is

[ABOVE] The jewelry room of the trading post offers a rustic setting for shoppers to view and purchase pieces handcrafted on the reservation.

[RIGHT] More than a century after its grand opening in several ramshackle buildings, the trading post fills a sprawling cobbled-together complex of rooms and buildings.

LOCATION: 318 miles northeast of Phoenix; 176 miles northeast of Flagstaff.

GETTING THERE: Take Interstate 17 north to Flagstaff. Turn east on Interstate 40 to U.S. Route 191 near Chambers. Drive U.S. 191 north to the junction of State Route 264 in Ganado. Take State Route 264 west a half-mile to the trading post, which is on the south side of the highway.

HOURS: Open daily except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day from 8 A.M. to 5 P.M. in the winter, and 8 A.M. to 6 P.M. in the summer (Mountain Daylight Time).

LODGING: There is no lodging in Ganado, but there are several places in Chinle, which is 38 miles north on U.S. Route 191, and in Window Rock, which is 29 miles east on State Route 264.

TRAVEL ADVISORY: The Hubbell Trading Post is located on the Navajo Indian Reservation, which observes daylightsaving time, whereas the rest of Arizona does not.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: (928) 7553475 or www.nps.gov/hutr/.

carpeted with Navajo rugs and decorated with Indian artworks. A few retired national parks horses occupy the massive barn. The trading post itself still runs much as it did in the 1870s, catering to Navajo, Zuni, Hopi and other tribal members seeking to sell items to the trader. Harnesses still hang from the bullpen's beams, cloth and tools crowd the walls and grocery items fill the cases. Nearby, a visitors center offers books on the region and a chance to talk with a weaver working at her loom.

When Hubbell died at age 78 on November 12, 1930, the community he served gathered to honor his memory. He was buried near his beloved trading post on Hubbell Hill next to his wife, Lina Rubi, and his close Navajo friend, Many Horses. At his funeral, an old Navajo man paid tribute to this friend of the Navajos, saying: "You wear out your shoes, you buy another pair. When the food is all gone, you buy more. You gather melons, and more will grow on the vine. You grind your corn and make bread, which you eat.

And next year you have plenty more corn. But my friend Don Lorenzo is gone, and none to take his place."

The Hubbell family ran the post until it was sold to the National Park Service in 1967 and Congress mandated that the new site should be "operated along the lines close to those that were in effect when it was an active Hubbell Post." And so, even in this modern world-where the Indian trader no longer plays the many roles Hubbell once described as "everything from merchant to father confessor, justice of the peace, judge, jury, court of appeals, chief medicine man, and de facto czar of the domain over which he presides"the traditions of the trading post live on. All

THINGS TO DO IN AND NEAR GANADO

CANYON DE CHELLY NATIONAL MONUMENT Located near Chinle, 38 miles north of the Hubbell Trading Post, this sacred monument can be seen along the North and South rim drives and on guided tours into the canyon. The visitors center is open daily from 8 A.M. to 5 P.M. except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day; Chinle, (928) 674-5500.

NATIVE AMERICAN ART AUCTION In May and August, the Friends of Hubbell Trading Post host a lively auction selling Indian arts and crafts, including Navajo weavings, Hopi kachina dolls and Navajo and Hopi baskets and pottery. Preview of items from 9 Α.Μ. to 11 A.M.; auction begins at noon. The next auction at the Hubbell Trading Post will be on August 23. Ganado, www.friendsofhubbell.org.

HOPI CULTURAL CENTER Sixty-three miles west of Ganado on State Route 264 stands the Hopi Cultural Center, the place to glean information about traveling on the Hopi Indian Reservation. Admission: $3, adults; $1, children. Open Mondays through Fridays, 8 Α.Μ. to 5 P.M. Second Mesa, (928) 734-2401.

NAVAJO NATION MUSEUM AND VISITOR CENTER Situated 29 miles east of Ganado, the museum and visitors center offers essential information about traveling around the Navajo Nation. Open Mondays, 8 A.M. to 5 P.M.; Tuesday through Fridays, 8 A.M. to 8 Ρ.Μ.; Saturdays, 9 A.M. to 5 P.M.; closed on tribal and national holidays; Window Rock, (928) 871-7941.