Patagonia to Sonoita

duty to protect against roving bands of Apaches. In 1862, after U.S. troops recaptured Arizona from the Confederates, Mowry was arrested as a Rebel sympathizer and his property confiscated. The resulting controversy made his silver mine famous throughout the United States.

Nothing of the old Mowry townsite exists today, and the remaining structures of Washington Camp, 4 miles down the road, have become homes.

But ghost-town browsers can take a short jog off the main road to Duquesne, and if the spirit moves, write a check to buy the place. It's for sale. Five structures, 40 acres, $132,000. Among the structures stands a threebedroom, two-fireplace home built in 1889 by George Westinghouse, of the famous electric company family. It and the other buildings are private property, but visitors can see and photograph them from the road.

The area also draws quartz crystal-hunting rockhounds from around the world. The rarest and most sought-after are Japanese Twin Crystals, so named because they consist of two crystals joined at a 90-degree angle and because abundant and spectacular specimens have come from several places in Japan. Aficionados assign all sorts of magical powers to Japanese Twins, from stabilizing emotions to dispelling anger.

At Washington Camp, FR 49 links with Forest Service Road 61. The latter rolls south to the village of Lochiel, home to about 30 residents, a one-room schoolhouse no longer in use and a 25-foot-tall roadside cross.

The monument stands in honor of Fray Marcos de Niza, an explorer who entered the San Rafael Valley on April 12, 1539, making him the first European to travel west of the Rockies.

Just beyond the cross, turn left onto FR 58 and head into the heart of the valley, once a crossing point for Apache raiders and gold rushers headed west to California in 1849 and later.

Here, 22 miles from the starting point in Patagonia, the mountains and trees give way to grassland topped by the thoroughly incongruous sight of a Southern plantation mansion.

Built in 1900 by Scotsman Colin Cameron, the 10,000-square-foot, 30-room home also served for almost 100 years as headquarters of the San Rafael Cattle Co.

Today, the three-story building and 3,500 acres around it are owned by Arizona State Parks, which plans to open it as a park, with rental rooms, when renovations are finished. However, a completion date has not been announced.

"This is one of the most beautiful spots in Arizona," said Park Manager Lee Eseman, who lives there working on numerous projects. "When my husband and I drove into this valley for the first time, it brought tears to our eyes."

Hollywood producer Arthur Hornblow had a similar reaction when he was introduced to the San Rafael Valley by a color photograph in Arizona Highways magazine. At the time, he was looking for a place to shoot his next picture. After doing further research, Hornblow decided the valley would be a perfect location, and in July 1953, the producer and a large crew arrived to shoot the exteriors for the film version of the smash Richard Rodgers and Oscar Hammerstein musical, Oklahoma. The San Rafael mansion, a mile and a quarter from the U.S.-Mexico border, did not appear in the movie, but its exterior played a prominent role in the 1963 John Wayne western, McClintock!

Wayne's character, George Washington McClintock, liked to toss his hat onto a weathervane on the roof of the house, then a Mexican boy would climb the trellis and retrieve it for him.

Other movies filmed in the valley include Tom Horn, with Steve McQueen, and Wild Rovers, with William Holden and Ryan O'Neal.

The San Rafael mansion is not yet open to the public, but visitors with binoculars can get a good look at it from the bottom of the ranch driveway.

Views elsewhere across the valley are exquisite. One of the best spots is at a T in the road, 2 miles past the San Rafael ranch. A south-facing dirt pullout offers a panorama that takes in the Patagonia Mountains, the Canelo Hills, Huachuca Mountains and down into Mexico.

At the same spot, FR 58 turns north and shortly intersects Forest Service Road 799. Turn right to take that road through Canelo Pass, elevation 5,246 feet. It affords an aweinspiring look back at the gentle suede-colored hills, the cottonwoods along the meandering Santa Cruz River, the grass waving in the breeze and red-tailed hawks soaring across a sky of magical blue.

The pavement starts again 4 miles beyond the pass at State Route 83. Follow it 16 miles into Sonoita. This last part of the drive passes Arizona's wine country and picturesque horse ranches lining the highway.

End a day of beautiful surprises in southeast Arizona with dinner at the Sonoita Steakout, where you might find yourself sitting beside a real-life cowboy, hat on the table as he works on a 32-ounce porterhouse. All WARNING: Back road travel can be hazardous if you are not prepared for the unexpected. Whether traveling in the desert or in the high country, be aware of weather and road conditions, and make sure you and your vehicle are in top shape. Carry plenty of water. Don't travel alone, and let someone at home know where you're going and when you plan to return. Odometer readings in the story may vary by vehicle.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Coronado National Forest, Nogales Ranger District, (520) 281-2296; Patagonia Visitor Center, (520) 394-0060.

experience. arizona

Festivals, powwows and get-togethers / by CARRIE M. MINER

TAKE A WEEKEND PHOTO WORKSHOP

Friends of Arizona Highways offers a variety of weekend photography workshops designed for those who cannot take longer trips. The shorter workshops include "Photo Publishing Fundamentals" and "Making Money With Your Camera." "Photography Made Simple" offers help with basic camera operation, and the "Arizona Highways School of Photography" addresses the art and aesthetics of photography in the magazine's style. Many workshops occur monthly, while others are held only once a year. Workshops fill quickly, but alternate dates may be available. More information can be found on the Friends Web site. For more information or a free workshop brochure, contact Friends of Arizona Highways at (602) 712-2004, toll-free at (888) 790-7042 or visit www.friendsofazhighways.com.

OTHER PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS

November 15 "Field Techniques," in Tucson November 21-22 "The Phoenix Zoo"

PIPE UP

November 1; Tucson The droning sound of bagpipes is associated with kilted Highlanders of Scotland, but research suggests that this odd-looking instrument can be traced back as far as A.D. 100 in Rome. By the sixth century, these unusual pipes were used by the Roman Infantry. Speculation surrounds the bagpipe's introduction to Scotland, but there is no disputing that this ancient instrument -consisting of a bag, a chanter and drones -was developed fully by the Highland clans as the national instrument. Listen to the haunting harmonies of modern bagpipes at the Tucson Celtic Festival and Scottish Highland Games held at Rillito Park. Other activities include live Celtic entertainment, athletic demonstrations and military re-creations. Information: (520) 743-9291.

GOURDS GALORE

November 8-9; Phoenix Take a fruit that isn't known for its sweetness, but for its utility as a container, and you'll discover hard-shelled gourds. The gourd family, Cucurbitaceae, also includes melons, squash, pumpkins and cucumbers. Gourds of all kinds are believed to have been one of the first intentionally cultivated crops. Hardshelled gourds are dried and transformed into bowls, dippers, drinking cups, cooking pots, floats for fishing nets, storage containers and musical instruments. The Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix celebrates this New World harvest at Gourds Galore. Festivities include demonstrations by gourd artists, hands-on activities, cooking demonstrations, crafts and a farmers' market. Information: (480) 941-1225.

HOME SWEET HOME

November 29-30; Bisbee/Warren During the copper boom in old Bisbee, the population surged, and in 1907 the Calumet and Arizona Mining Co. founded the company town of Warren. This master-planned community offered a place for elite citizens to build mansions of grandeur away from the mining activities. Many mineworkers lived in the district and commuted each day on the Warren-Bisbee Railway. Since those early days, Warren has been incorporated into Bisbee, even though the district is 2 miles east of historic downtown Bisbee. Walk though some of the finest private homes in Warren and enjoy some of the most stunning architecture in the Southwest at the 21st Annual Historic Home Tour. Information: (520) 432-5421 or toll-free, 866-2BISBEE.

TRADITIONAL MEXICAN CHRISTMAS

November 23, 2003-March 28, 2004; Tucson Nativity scenes often represent the birth of Christ, but the traditional Mexican nativity expands the portrayal of Biblical scripture to include elements of Mexican culture. Called the nacimiento, the intricate arrangements of painted miniature figures combine the symbolism of the Spanish Colonial Catholic Church with snapshots of everyday life in rural Mexico. A scene depicting a stable and the Holy Family may be displayed beside another depicting a bullfight arena. The Tucson Museum of Art hosts the seasonal El Nacimiento in historic Casa Cordova, showcasing 300 painted figurines created and displayed by Maria Luisa Tena. Information: (520) 624-2333.

Other Events

Arboretum Folk Festival; November 8; Superior; (520) 689-2811. Live folk music and fall foliage at the Boyce Thompson Arboretum State Park. Sahuaro Ranch Days; November 8-9; Glendale; (623) 930-4200. Antique tractor show and home tours. Bluegrass Festival and Fiddle Championship; November 14-16; Wickenburg; (928) 684-5479. Live entertainment, music competitions and arts and crafts. Red Rock Fantasy of Lights; November 21, 2003January 4, 2004; Sedona; (928) 282-1777 or toll-free, (800) 521-3131. Themed holiday light displays and seasonal music. Christmas Parade; November 22; Winslow; (928) 2892434. Arizona's largest annual Christmas parade. Old Pearce Holiday Festival; November 28-29; Pearce; (520) 826-3588. Storytellers, live music and antiques. Florence Junior Parada; November 29-30; Florence; (520) 868-9433. The world's oldest continuous junior rodeo and parade.