TONTO NATURAL BRIDGE

Arizona has a rich heritage of color and romance. The colorful settings and vast distances are a challenge and an inspiration to all who are thrilled with the charm of this incredible state. In reading from time to time of Arizona, one might scan with skepticism, stories of her ever increasing list of world wondersGrand Canyon and Boulder Dam, greatest natural and man-made creations, respectively; Lake Mead, largest artificial lake in existence; the four highest reclamation dams of their particular types ever constructed; largest forest of virgin yellow pine; her matchless Petrified Forest and Painted Desert, to name a few. Yet, upon invesigation, these and many others remain unchallenged as unique in their respective field.

Tonto Natural Bridge, another of Arizona's spectacular attractions, though perhaps not so well known, dwarfs anything of its kind. It is the world's largest travertine arch. Located between Pine and Payson, in the Tonto National Forest, one of the wildest areas in the state, this massive arch rears itself 183 feet above the trickling waters of Pine Creek that flows through the tree-studded canyon. The opening beneath the bride averages about 140 feet in width, and from the one side of the opening to the other, the extent is 400 feet. According to the Geological Society of America, this is the only case in North America, in which a valley has been spanned by a travertine deposit. The immensity of this huge span, which remains hidden from view until its brink is reached, may be envisaged in that a five Acre farm with an orchard, a corn field, vegetable and flower gardens grows upon its top. In comparison, the famed Natural Bridge in Virginia could be contained in Tonto Natural Bridge many times. It has been estimated that more than 300 million cubic yards of travertine deposits make up this unusual creation. Several large springs that flow into the valley from the east side contain lime in solution, which, upon evaporation, is deposited as travertine. As time went on through countless years, these springs kept washing over, depositing, and increasing the width of travertine until it reached the opposite side of the deep gorge in the little valley, thus forming a natural bridge. Beneath the arch of the bridge are several caverns, caves, galleries, chambers, grottoes, and isles that lead far into the mountains, many of them yet unknown in extent. From the roofs of these caverns hang many stalactites resembling huge icicles. From the floors rise the same inverted fantastic formations, resulting from like processes employed by nature in the formation of the bridge.

Access to the caverns and caves is by a series of ladders, set firmly in the walls, and extending from the floor of the bridge, into the far reaches of the roof. An unusual feature of the bridge is a hole about a foot in diameter which has weathered through the top of the arch, where one can peer through into the depths below and see the rapids, constantly fed by the spring water pouring out of the cliff sides, wending swiftly through and over the many giant boulders that are strewn over the floor of the gorge.

From the top of the Bridge a steep, rugged, but safe trail leads to the creek bed and under the Bridge. It is quite unbelievable, the beauty that is unfolded from the floor of the span. A constant dripping of water from seepage through the porous travertine, adds enchantment to the unusual scene. However porous the travertine seems to be, it is so hard that no commercially practicable way of quarrying it has been devised. The history of the discovery and the story of the early days at Tonto Natural Bridge, is a fascinating one. Discovered about 1877 or 1878 by David Gowan, the location of this phenomenon was purely accidental. Gowan was prospecting along the East Verde where he found gold and established the Gowan mine, which is still being worked in a small way by lessees.

While doing development work at the mine, Gowan established residence at the Bridge, and had a garden cleared to raise vegetables for the crew at the mine. He afterwards sold the mine for $25,000. At the time of development at the mine, Indian raids were common, and the stone wall around a knoll still stands that was used by the lookout, and as a fort in case of possible attack.

For several years Gowan's residence was spasmodic; his many prospecting trips taking up most of his time, and on several occasions he returned to find his ranch relocated by others, who never stayed long on Gowan's return.

Known as a hermit, Gowan was a "quaint, sincere, large-hearted man, straight, thick-chested, with twinkling eyes and long gray hair."

In 1882 a family by the name of Saunders who came to this part of the country with the first Mormon brigade, gave Gowan some seed of fruit trees, and the old apricots are still standing, at the age of 58. The first time Gowan lived here, he moved his camp every night after dark to avoid the Indians, who he was pretty sure were watching him during the day, hence the night moves for obvious reasons. The Indians have a legend of a cave which can be enteredhere and which will, if followed, bring you out about one and onehalf miles in a southeasterly direction. On several occasions Gowan tried to give this place to some friends, but they refused because "you can't get in there with a wagon." You can now get in and out in an automobile with ease.

Now we go back to the time when Gowan, a sailor, left Scotland on a voyage and was lost sight of by his family for years. The father of H. W. Goodfellow, now living at the Bridge, when a lad of six was the last one of the family to see Gowan before he sailed. Years passed and the Goodfellows, who were living near Durham in Eng land, chanced to see an article in the New Castle Times, describing "Dave Gowan's two-story farm" near Flagstaff. (At that time the only north and south road through this region was from Flagstaff to Globe. The elder Goodfellow wondered if by chance it could be his long-lost uncle, described in the story. He wrote a letter to him, care of Flagstaff, Arizona, the only address he knew, and in due time received a reply. In 1897 he sailed from Liverpool, with his family, and was met in Flagstaff by Uncle Dave and a Mormon freighter, who hauled the luggage to the top of the hill, from where it was packed in on burros. Everything that went in or out of this place until 1904, was packed on burros. At that time a road was completed to the ranch near the bridge, and, according to H. W. Goodfellow, "the excitement was great when the first tourist came in without having to leave his 'outfit' at the hilltop. As time went on and automobiles improved, more and more tourists found their way into this strange, beautiful little ranch cupped in the heart of the great forest. In 1926 the original Lodge at the ranch was replaced with a more modern structure accommodating a greater number of people. The natural beauty of the ranch itself has been enhanced by time and care.

During the war the Lodge was closed to the public but once again it is open so all may view the majestic spectacle of one of Nature's most diligent accomplishments.

The ranch was once a mining claim, has operated as a farm. Facilities have been built for guests. Old ranch house, once fort, is now an attractive tourist lodge.

Visitors to Tonto Natural Bridge find accommodations at the commodious lodge near the bridge. The valley of the bridge is part of sparsely settled northern Gila county.

The porous travertine, of which Tonto Natural Bridge is formed, is so hard no commercial use has been found for it. A five acre plot of productive farmland on top of bridge gives indication of its size. It would be hard to estimate centuries bridge represents. Lowman photo.