THE HASSAYAMPA

STORY BY E. A. STEIN OF A RIVER THAT IS FAMED BOTH FOR ITS HISTORY AND ITS LEGENDS.

In a quiet little canyon on the rock-strewn slopes of Mt. Union, just south of Prescott, not far from the exact center of the State of Arizona, is a quiet crystal-clear pool. Its face beams with the reflection of the blue sky above, and through the patches of shadow cast by the foliage overhead are visible a host of variegated colors that rise from its shallow depths. At the lower end of its scant five feet in circumference its face is only slightly dimpled by the ripple of its overflow. The water that spills out between the rocks could be measured in teaspoonfuls. As it is difficult to foresee the strength and stature of the man that is to follow from the first glimpse of a new-born babe, so the first look at this infant beginning gives little indication of the mighty stream that is to develop from this tiny trickling, once it has gathered volume and force.

Here life pulses but feebly in the serenity of the pine forest. Here without fanfare a great river is quietly born; and it is from a birth as humble as this that rises the famous and powerful Hassayampa. The name "Hassayampa" is an illegitimate one. Originally listed as the Oolkilsipava in the first historical records of the white man's exploration of central Arizona, the old Indians in the area described it as "the river that flows upside-down." 'Tis said that its present name originated with Pauline Weaver who, upon reaching its banks as the head of an exploration party, took note of its prodigious underground flow and the wide expanse of its sandy body and called it the "Aziamp" or "Assiamp." The name apparently was brought with him from the Indian tongues he knew while guiding and trapping in western Arizona and means "water that is hidden." This latter description is the more accurate, for the water of the river's flow is almost entirely concealed in the sand and gravel of its bed that lies a hundred feet deep upon solid bedrock, with only a small stream visible here and there on the surface. In later historical records the name "Aziamp" was changed to read "Hassayamp" by the recorder who "kept books" for the Walker Mining District which flanked its course, because, to use his own words, "it sounded more Spanish." Subsequently, those who lived and worked along the banks of the river became known as "Hassayampers", and it was the reflection from this quaint appelation that brought about the addition of an "a" to the original spelling. Since then the full name "Hassayampa," illegitimacy and all, has been generally accepted and remains in use to this day.

Coursing its way merrily for the first half of its one hundred and fifty mile length through the rugged timber country of the higher elevations of central Arizona, where winter snows breathe into it the breath of life and pine needles form a cushion for its head, the Hassayampa flows with equal gayety for the latter half of its length through the bosom-warm sands of the lower elevations of the state to the south, locally called "the desert." Here ten miles west of Buckeye it buries its feet firmly in the valley of the Gila, where the waters of the two streams merge and elope full-grown to the Rio Colorado, the Gulf of California, and thence to the Pacific. Enroute it flows thru but one sizable community-Wickenburg. Along its banks are to be found some outstanding gems of scenic beauty, a climate that is without superior anywhere and many othermanifestations of a beneficent nature that set it apart as a place especially favored by a kind Providence. For those who care to look more closely there are also to be found the footprints of history, the birthmarks of a rising culture and a current way of life that is most accurately pictured by the gently swirling pattern left in the sands of its great bed by the waters of an occasional flood. Going over the backtrack of history, very properly the Hassayampa could be called the parent of greater Arizona's original exploration and subsequent development. It was the glitter of goldplacer gold found in extensive quantities in the valley of the Hassayampa, generously fortified with sizable nuggets, that first lured the adventurers of the 1860's to the hitherto unexplored wilderness of central and northern Arizona. As the news of their wealthy finds became widespread the first result was consideration by the federal government, at that time sorely in need of gold. Arizona was split off from New Mexico and established as a separate Territory. A territorial government complete with military facilities for the protection of "the populace" was provided. Transportation of that day was expanded and re-routed to supply the new, rapidly-growing area. New businesses came into existence because of the demand. Sizablecommunities were built, ever growing larger and humming with acti-vity. Eventually the demand for supplies grew to such proportion that the idea for the irrigation and bringing into production of the large flats along the Salt River to the south was conceived and executed, resulting in what is now the Salt River Valley Irrigation Project.

Usually dry, the Hassayampa is a rip-snorter in flood stage.

In the high Bradshaws of Yavapai county, in a clear, bright spring, the Hassayampa River begins its life.

Because of all this activity, the railroad with its construction camps established every fifty miles came in. Electric power was developed. Settlers were attracted, farms and ranches were laid out, others came in to occupy them; the Territory achieved statehood, and so the present State of Arizona came into existence. And the point of beginning for all this "white man's" development was at the headwaters of the Hassayampa.Detailing the proceedings, it was Joseph Reddeford Walker who started the influx into Arizona Territory. As a young man he had come west with Bonneville, and later trapped for beaver along Arizona's rivers between 1834 and 1840. During that time he reportedly found "a metal" along the banks of one of the streams which many years later while in San Francisco he identified as gold. Organizing a party of nineteen men at Keyesville, California in 1861, he set out to re-discover the source of his precious sample, and in the ensuing months traveled as far east as the Little Colorado north of Winslow. The quest proving futile, he and his party spent the winter in other pursuits in southern Colorado, and the following spring re-organized to resume the search. Coming down through Taos, New Mexico to Ft. Craig the party followed the "old trail" (which later became the Butterfield Stage Trail) to Tucson, and thence across the "Great Desert" or "Gila Desert" to the Pima Vil-lages, located to the northwest along the banks of the Gila River. From here the line of march continued down the Gila to Oatman Flat where a crossing was made so that the Hassayampa could be reached more quickly by overland travel. This was in the spring of 1863, and as the weather grew warmer the party moved up that stream to the pine-clad mountains that beckoned a cool welcome in the distance. Establishing a camp only a few miles south of the present site of the City of Prescott, near the head-waters of the stream, short explorations were made to adjacent creek beds; and it was a member of the party by the name of Sam Miller who first found gold on Lynx Creek only a short distance away. By this time, food supplies were running low and it was decided to cache all be-longings and make a flying trip back to the Pima Villages for sup-plies. While there, and to let the rest of civilization know where he and his party were, Walker left letters with the friendly natives ad-dressed to the freighters who occasionally came through. These letters, revealing the discovery of gold, brought a flood of prospectors and adventurers to the banks of the Hassayampa, principally from California where gold-seekers were finding their diggings less and less profitable.

These letters also brought attention from the administration of President Lincoln in Washington, at that time in dire need of gold for financing the cost of the Civil War and the reconstruction period that followed. To facilitate matters, Arizona was established as a separate territory from New Mexico, and a governor was appointed.Assigned a military escort, this group came in from the northeast and established "Camp Clark" at Del Rio at the head of Chino Valley some distance to the south of the present town of Ashfork, as a "protection" for the members of the Walker party and the others that were to follow. After contact had been established between the two groups, the camp, now called Ft. Whipple, was moved down to the southern end of Chino Valley just north of the present City of Prescott where it has remained and flourished ever since. And so was laid the groundwork for the development of Northern Arizona.

As the news of the discovery of gold in central Arizona became widespread it eventually reached the ears of one A. H. Peeples who was becoming more and more dissatisfied with his workings on the Kern River in California. With two others, he decided to come over and try his luck in the new territory. Arriving at Ft. Yuma, he met Pauline Weaver who had been trapping throughout the west since 1832, and induced him to join his party as guide. At the same time the party also picked up an emigrant from Germany who was well versed in mineralogy by the name of Henry Wickenburg. This small band, now known as the Weaver party, headed up the main stream of the Rio Colorado, left it at the mouth of the Bill Williams to travel east, and eventually wound up in the vicinity of what is now Yarnell Hill. Here Peeples one day killed three antelope atop a flat-topped mountain and as a result named it Antelope Hill, a name which has endured to the present generation. After packing the kills back to camp, the party "jerked" the meat, (cut it into strips for drying,) and while it was curing set out to do a little prospecting. One of the party was rewarded with a modest strike. This established the presence of gold in a second locality bordering the Hassayampa. Subsequently many other rich strikes were made in what is now known as the Weaver District and the adjacent areas, the more famous of which were Rich Hill, Octave and the Congress properties.

The third and by far the richest discovery of gold along the course of the Hassayampa, however, was made by Henry Wickenburg in 1863 at a point about fifteen miles west of the community which now bears his name. Having listened around the campfire in Peeples Valley just north of Antelope Hill to the glowing tales told by the famous scout K. S. Woolsey of gold which was supposed to exist in large quantities in the mountains which cropped up out of the desert to the southwest, Wickenburg became interested. In the fall of 1863 he organized a party to explore the region. The group traveled down the course of the Hassayampa to "the sink," site of the present town of Wickenburg where springs poured their cool contributions into the bed of the river. Here they established a base camp. From this point the party scoured the waterless region to the west for a distance of fifty miles without finding a promising prospect. However, in coming and going, Wickenburg's attention had been attracted by an outcropping atop a ridge to the south. His companions having become discouraged by the fruitless search and the hardships Wickenburg was forced to venture out alone to explore what he thought might be a possibility. After some difficulty he finally arrived at the base of the ridge and madeHenry Wickenburg, stern prospector, found gold and his Vulture Mine became famous in pioneer days. The magic of gold attracted hundreds of the early-day prospectors.The town founded on the banks of the Hassayampa by Henry Wickenburg now bears his name. An important travel center it was at one time the center of a “gold” rush.

overnight camp. Next morning he searched the area thoroughly but found little to encourage him. About to pack his burros and leave, Wickenburg had difficulty in rounding up one of the hobbled critters that had learned to run in three-legged fashion in spite of his hobbles. Exasperated and completely out of patience with the elusive animal which had led him a merry chase some distance from camp, Wickenburg picked up a piece of rock and threw it at the beast to give vent to his feelings. As the rock sailed through the air, Wickenburg's keen eye caught a gleam of reflected sunlight. Recovering the piece in great haste, Wickenburg examined it carefully, and sure enough, there embedded in its rough surface-was gold-free gold. Shortly thereafter, Wickenburg returned to the base camp on the Hassayampa and reported his find to his companions. Indifference seemed to exist on their part, however, for it was some time before the group set out to look over his discovery. Examination proved promising enough to cause the party to set up the customary monuments marking the corners of the claim, and it was during this operation that Wickenburg, always alert to what was going on about him, noticed a vulture wheel overhead and then alight on the top of the ridge to watch the odd behavior of the human beings below. This happening prompted him to call his find "The Vulture," a gold mine which in the years that have passed since has produced over ten million dollars worth of gold bullion.Thus it was, that in the space of two short years the region of the Hassayampa zoomed to top importance in Arizona, made famous by three major gold strikes in the area bordering its shores. An odd condition attendant is the fact that the three men who were identified with the making of these strikes all wore names beginning with "w"-Walker, Weaver, and Wickenburg.

As the pursuit of placer mining along the course of the Hassayampa eventually led to the location of the ledges from which the loose gold originated, hard-rock mining also soon became a thriving industry in the vicinity. To pulverize the ore, construction of milling contrivances became necessary to recover the hidden wealth from the hard rock in which it was secreted. The first of such devices took the form of an arrastre, which was little more than an oversized burro-operated rock and cement grinding table similar to those used for grinding grain. These crude affairs served their purpose well but required the use of water to complete the recovery. As a result, most of them were built on the banks of the Hassayampa, and at one time more than forty of these devices were in operation at what was then called Wickenburg's Ranch. As more and more people came in, the place grew, and the word "ranch" was dropped. So there came into existence the community of Wickenburg. At one time the Wickenburg of that day had a population of over 1200 people, the largest community in the territory, and missed by only two votes the distinction of being made the capital of the Territory.Only once in its existence so far has the Hassayampa ever been harnessed, and then only for a short time. At the height of its goldproducing fame those who lived and worked along the shores of the Hassayampa had one difficult problem, that of securing enough supplies. Machinery, tools, and all the necessities of life either had to be brought over from California by boat to Ft. Yuma and La Paz and then be "freighted" in from the west, or they had to make the long overland wagon-trip from New Mexico to the east. Neither was very satisfactory, especially as far as food was concerned. To overcome the difficulty several of the more progressive and farsighted citizens of the area conceived the idea of building dams across the river to provide water for irrigation. One such project was organized along the upper reaches of the river and was designed to first use the water for sluicing down the large placer fields on the slopes of Rich Hill, and then re-use the water that was to be recovered in the wash below for irrigating purposes.

The project attracted considerable attention and also some eastern capital.In the late 1880's construction was started on the first dam at Walnut Grove, an earth-fill structure a hundred feet high. In the early winter of 1889-1890 the project was rapidly nearing completion when a series of heavy rains set in. By February of 1890 the dam was brim-full and the rains were still falling. The workers struggled feverishly to finish the job. Nightshifts were put to work and all available hands concentrated their efforts, but to no avail. On the night of February 22nd, its inadequate spillway choked with In recent years Wickenburg on the Hassayampa has become one of the important guest ranch centers in the West. The Roundup Club boasts of Wickenburg's delightful winter climate, which is sun country at its best. There are many fine cattle ranches located along the river.

debris and its flood-gate jammed with logs that had been washed down from above, the water finally overflowed the top of the dam to a depth of several feet as the result of a sudden downpour, and in the space of a few short minutes destroyed it completely. Old-timers say that it took the water that was released only 45 minutes to travel the forty miles from Walnut Grove to Wickenburg, and that in some of the "narrows" the wall of water that came down was forty feet high. Among the material losses of the disaster was a large safe belonging to the leading saloon in the construction camp. Many are those who have spent time trying to locate it in the sandy bottom of the river, in the belief that it still contains a sizable fortune in gold-dust and jewelry. Most of the pleasant little ranches that bordered the river at that time were destroyed or made worthless by the flood, and their occupants were driven to higher ground. Seventy-nine bodies were recovered and buried as the waters receded, most of them those of the occupants of the construction camp that was located below the site of the tragedy. And so the mighty Hassayampa shook off the restraining influence of man's attempt to impound its power for his own purposes. A few scars of that unhappy attempt are still visible on the canyon walls, but the waters of the river, completely unaware of the toll they have extracted to keep their freedom, pay no attention to them as they now once more glide smoothly along southbound. In the years that followed all plans for the construction of irrigation projects designed to supply the residents of the Hassayampa district were transferred to the valley of the Salt River to the south. This venture proved to be highly successful, and thus was laid the foundation for the huge present-day development of central Arizona in general and the Phoenix area in particular, an occurence which can definitely be credited to conception along the banks of the Hassayampa. Turning from its glamorous historical background of the past to that of the present, today the mighty Hassayampa is still active as an influence in the development of Arizona. The metallic gold which attracted the first prospectors to its shores is still yielding in profitable quantities to the operators of several large mining properties. The cattle and sheep outfits which began grazing stock on its far-flung ranges soon after the arrival of the first settlers it is still supporting generously. And the benefits of its intermediate location and its splendid year-round climate it is still distributing abundantly to all comers without prejudice. But in the matter of siring a new activity in the state, the Hassayampa has reenacted its original role, and for a second time become a parent. During recent years the delightful climate of the Hassayampa's vast valley has attracted large numbers of climate seekers. Many of those who originally came with the intention of spending only a short period of time in its friendly surroundings eventually decided to remain as permanent residents. Because of this the area bordering the Hassayampa has increased in population and popularity with tremendous strides during the last two decades. Most of this increase has become apparent in the vicinity of the Town of Wickenburg.

In the old days Wickenburg, being the hub of most of the mining activity along the course of the Hassayampa, soon also became the hub of the transportation facilities of that day, serving the entire district. Later it became an important junction point for the stage lines operating thru the territory, with stage routes radiating west to Ehrenberg, north to Prescott and south to Tucson. As these were eventually developed into highways for the use of the modern traveller, Wickenburg assumed increasing importance as the crossroads for central Arizona. This distinction it still enjoys. During later years all three of the highways passing thru Wickenburg, which followed the old stage routes were designated as part of the transcontinental highway system of the nation. To be specific these highways were U. S. 60, U. S. 70 and U. S. 89. Today they carry a large part of the coast-to-coast and the border-to-border traffic in the southwest. It has been their great volume of travel both past and present that has given further impetus to the development of the valley of the Hassayampa thru the years. In the valley, Wickenburg is the logical stopping point for those who are passing thru. Here the tourist and the commercial traveller alike pause with profit to refresh themselves. It is during just such short innocent stops as this that many an unsuspecting wayfarer has been captivated by the charm of the place and has eventually yielded to the desire to remain awhile. In recent years this age-old quality of the valley of the Hassayampa enabling it to stop and attract people has led to the development of a whole new industry. This industry is known as guest-ranching, and its operators make a business of housing, feeding and entertaining those who would like to spend time in the delightful area under ranch-life conditions. In Wickenburg this industry has grown and flourished out of all proportion to other development in the vicinity, and today the town calls itself "The Guest Ranch Capital of the World." Truly no finer appointments can be found anywhere for the accommodation of the ranch visitor than those which are to be found in this attractive area. Here the guest can sleep luxuriously, eat excellently, ride, play and loaf leisurely and in every way enjoy his stay to the ut-most. Few indeed are those who go away failing to sing praises of the delightful experiences to be enjoyed while vacationing at the ranches along the banks of the Hassayampa around Wickenburg. Most return again and again for additional periods. And many come to love the country so well that they eventually decide to remain permanently.

Many celebrated people have come to Arizona in the winter to enjoy the easy western life and fine climate of the Hassayampa country around Wickenburg. While a guest at one of the ranches the famous English author, J. B. Priestley, wrote the book "Midnight on the Desert."

The combination of superb winter climate plus the excellence of its accommodations has in recent years attracted not only nationally known but also many world-famous personages to the Wickenburg area as guests. One of these has been J. B. Priestley, noted English author, who wrote "Midnight on the Desert" while staying at the famous English author, J. B. Priestley, wrote the book "Midnight on the Desert."

Remuda Ranch. Quoting him we learn: "This town claims, with some success, to have the best winter climate in Arizona. It has, therefore, one of the best winter climates in the world, which is notoriously short of good winter climates. I prophesy that this Wickenburg district will become increasingly important in the near future." This prophesy is being rapidly fulfilled. Each year more and more people from greater and greater distances are coming to spend time at Wickenburg's ranches from both this country and abroad. Here, as in years gone by, people from every walk of life are finding delight in the glow of the warm sunshine, the tonic of an early morning ride, the soul-quieting peace of a glorious sunset. These things satisfy them. It is pleasant to hear the happy laughter of a group of riders from the Monte Vista or the Triangle W as they lope along horseback over the surface-dry chest of the Hassayampa. It is amusing to observe the intensity with which a pair of guests from the FK Bar or the Lazy RC apply themselves in trying to pan out a few "colors" of gold from the river's sands. And on Sunday afternoons the "whoops" and "hollers" that accompany the witnessing of a local rodeo at the Remuda arena give ample evidence that those who are in attendance have forgotten the last fragment of their "back-home" identity along with its responsibilities and cares. Here along the banks of the Hassayampa there is freedom from the intricacies of present day big city life. Here human beings can commune with nature as they should normally. Here men, women and children alike can relax and absorb the gifts of a bountiful Creator. Here in the Wickenburg area exists a mecca for those who wish to come and enjoy a mecca created by the influence of the mighty Hassayampa. During the years that have bound together the past and the present the waters of the River Hassayampa have become quite famous in legend. Perhaps this has come about because those who have lived along its course have been so enthusiastic about it. The Indians who inhabited the region before the coming of the white man had one that translated reads: And whoso drinks that nectar rare And breathes that free inspiring air Is thrilled with love that never dies For Hassayampa's undimmed skies; And though he wander far and roam Beyond the borderland of home His heart is never stilled or knows Peace or contentment or repose Till fortune guides his steps once more Toward Hassayampa's golden shore. During the time that mining activity was at its height along the full length of the river, a second legend came into existence. Because others in the territory were inclined not to believe the stories of the great gold strikes claimed to have been made by miners who came out to spend some of their wealth, it soon became the standing joke of the day to place the blame for the apparently exaggerated stories of new-found riches on the drinking of the waters of the Hassayampa. This legend was eventually put into verse by Andrew Downing which reads: There's a legend centuries old By the early Spaniards told Of a sparkling stream that "lies" Under Arizona skies Hassayampa is its name And the title to its fame Is a wondrous quality Known today from sea to sea Those who drink its waters bright Red man, white man, boor or knight Girls or women, boys or men Never tell the truth again.