CRUISE TO THE MIDRIFF

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN C. REED Own Mexico way the sleepy little fishing village of Puerto Peñasco is home port for the Galeana . . . a 65-foot, diesel powered, fisherman's paradise. The Galeana, a converted shrimper, carrying a month's supply of fuel oil, twenty barrels of fresh water and equipped with an eleven by twenty foot galley, four outboard dingeys, ship to shore phone, and a deep freeze for the catch, is forever tugging at her anchor chain, raring to cruise the finest fishing waters the gulf has to offer.of the country to trade the everyday routine for a five day cruise to the "Midriff" on the Galeana where the only tension is in a singing line with finned lightning on the wet end.

It's all done in solid comfort, too, for the Galeana boasts four cabins that accommodate two persons each and one cabin that accommodates four. The bunks have air-foam mattresses. There are two showers and two heads. The most congenial crew consists of captain, first mate, engineer, and two deck hands. And the ship's cook has a master's touch at preparing prime ribs, roast turkey, fried shrimp, baked ham, etc. to a taste that calls for welcome seconds.

October to July is the time when the temperature is best. Then the blue waters of the gulf and the salt air and the thrill of adventure call fishermen from all parts The term "Midriff" refers to the narrow waist about midway down the Gulf of California marked by a group of islands: Angel De La Guardia, Tiburon, San Estaban, and San Lorenzo. Here is reputed to be the richest fishing in all the gulf. There are more than six hundred known varieties of fish in these waters, some of which are marlin, sailfish, black and white sea bass, totuava, gulf grouper, roosterfish, triggerfish, golden cabrillo, sierra, pompano, curbina, yellowtail, and numerous other varieties of game fish, plus oysters, lobsters, shrimp, clams, sharks, whales, manta rays, etc. Those who ship out for a five day cruise on the Galeana are in for considerably more exciting things than just fishing, for here in the gulf nature is forever weaving a fascinating variety of adventure. There is the challenge of photographing the schools of playful porpoises that stitch the water in graceful arcs as they race with the boat. There is the thrill of watching the great, dark whales that plunge by so close that you can feel the cool spray From the border inspection station just south of Ajo, Arizona, a hard-surface road leads 65 miles to the fishing village of Puerto Peñasco in Sonora, Mexico. The first view of the bay with the colorful shrimp boats at anchor calls for a photograph or two before checking in at the dock where the Galeana is moored.

drift across the deck as they surface to blow roaring geysers of salt water high above the surface of the sea. There are the islands of the Midriff to explore with their bird life, seals, and seashells and in the evening there is the pleasure of joining in all the good talk, the laughter and tall tales about adventures of the day with fellow fishermen. Evening at sea is also a reverent place to meditate to rest and collect one's thoughts, lounging in a deck chair while the setting sun splashes the sky with vivid color silhouetting the graceful forms of the gulls that sail effortlessly overhead. And long after the sun has set and you feel pleasantly well fed and relaxed watching the blue phosphorescence in the churning wake, you'll retire to a clean, dry bunk as the sea gently rocks the Galeana in her nightly cruise into tomorrow's south of the border adventure.

An experience such as the Galeana offers is too good not to pass along to others. For information and reservations contact Dave J. Hyams, South of the Border Fishing Trips, Box 414, Calexico, California. Then drive, fly, or take the train to Puerto Peñasco and climb aboard the Galeana for a fishing trip you'll treasure always the unforgettable cruise to the "Midriff."

Upon arriving in Puerto Peñasco, fishermen pick up a few last minute needs in the village shops, such as sombreros under which to hide from the midday sun.

Dave Hyams, left, conductor of the cruise, and Andy Chersin, right, owner of Puerto Peñasco's modern Playa Hermosa Motel-Restaurant and a fleet of charter fishing boats, check in the sportsmen as they arrive.

Porpoises delight in rushing up to the Galeana in graceful bounds to convoy her for a while, before they dive deep beneath the surface to some other form of play.

The Galeana often passes through schools of whales which seem to enjoy her company as they lazily swim by, sometimes within a few feet of the strange visitor.

It is quite a common sight to see an old bull seal, his harem, and pups sunning themselves on the rocky shore of the "Midriff" islands in the Gulf of California.

Bird life abounds in the gulf area. Here an eagle nest high on a rocky island promontory contained two young eagles of different size, one egg, and one fish for lunch.

LEFT: Catching giant sea turtles in the "Midriff" area is a commercial industry.

LEFT: Many beaches visited on the gulf are heavily covered with assorted shells.

Natives of the Tiburon Island come out to trade with the Galeana crew.

Tiburon Indians, primitive by reputation, sport modern dress, tailor-made cigarettes, and outboard motors.