Senator Highway - The Back Road to Crown King

by Rosemary Holusha Don't try to balance a teacup on your knee traveling along the old Senator Highway, south of Prescott, on the road to Crown King. That's where present-day pioneers can hitch a ride into the past, following along the historic stagecoach road in the Bradshaw Mountain Range through the Prescott National Forest.

Also known as Forest Road 52, the dusty, sometimes muddy Senator offers forested mountains, canyons, small lakes, tiny streams, abundant wildlife, and ghost mining camps and mills, remnants of the gold and silver fever of days gone by.

Lovers of wildlife can enjoy mule deer, javelina, turkey, and gray squirrel, and may even spot bobcat, coyote, quail, hawks, eagles, and maybe a mountain lion or two. Hikers can trek the many forest trails not on private land. Photographers and just plain nature lovers will thrill to the lush and beautiful scenery.

The Senator is a slow-poke road, rambling over a hilly and curving terrain through changing altitudes and vegetation, as it winds past the skeletal remains of old mining camps along its 41-mile route.

The first gold discovery in Yavapai Country was made in 1837, and in 1863 the first white men entered the southern Bradshaws, led by William Bradshaw. In those days, gold was the magnet which attracted settlers, and an account in the Prescott Weekly Courier, March 7, 1902, relates: "Old-timers will remember the discovery of the precious metal in the Bradshaws. In the summer of 1870, a party of prospectors - McCracken, Jim Fines, and Rod McKinnenloaded four burros with tools and supplies and headed south for the then unexplored Bradshaw Mountains. Nothing was heard from this little party and no one knew what their fate might be. It was not only risky, but extremely dangerous for a small party to venture in the Indian country and stop any length of time, and Bradshaw was a regular Indian stronghold. In the course of two months, however, our intrepid little party of prospectors returned hale and hearty, with not only glowing accounts of their new find, but sixteen hundred dollars in shining gold."

Two years later an assay from the Tiger mine showed silver at $1600 to $11,000 per ton, and within a day after the report, miners began to stream into the southern Bradshaws.

With the discovery of the Tiger, Bradshaw City sprang up, and it was reported in the February 4, 1871, Weekly Arizona Miner, "A settlement started there known as Bradshaw City, where for many months there were many saloons and dance halls in full blast, but there were no churches."

But by 1888 no buildings remained at Bradshaw City. Today, just a sign stands at the townsite which once held 5,000 persons.

To take the challenging and relatively little-traveled route to Arizona's rugged past, turn left onto South Mount Vernon Street as you come into Prescott on Highway 89. In a few short miles it becomes the Senator Highway. Passenger cars are not recommended for traveling the later unpaved portion of this route. You'll need a sturdy vehicle with good road clearance, such as a four-wheel-drive van or pickup truck. Plan on approximately 31/2 hours to Crown King, and another 11/2 hours through the towns of Cleator and Cordes to pavement on I-17. Be sure to check road conditions locally.

First, on deceivingly good road, you'll pass well-kept and demure Victorian homes. Then, about three miles farther into the tall pine country, you'll reach the Goldwater Lake Recreation area, well-known spot for water sport enthusiasts and fishermen.

The first six miles were once part of the Prescott and Lynx Creek toll road, where a charge of $1.50 was made for a wagon and 25 cents for a horse and rider. That road passed east toward the old gold camp of Walker, but miners along the Hassayampa River clamored for a route farther south, so S. O. Fredericks, owner of the Senator Mine, cut the five-mile extension to his mill and gave the highway a name.

The Senator has changed its direction more than once. It was built a second time by Indian laborers and the Aubrey Investment Company in 1912. They counted 240 curves in the distance between Prescott and Groom Creek. Later, a third road shortened the distance to Groom Creek, but the rest of it is still like it always was.

Named

Built in 1853, Palace Station is said to be one of the oldest structures made by white men in Arizona. Originally a stage station at Spencer Spring, the house is now a major attraction for hikers and travelers in this beautiful pine-scented high country. Hassayampa Lake, below, sparkles in the early morning sun. Photos by Kathleen Norris Cook (Bottom) Built in 1898, the classic Crown King Saloon is one of the few survivors of the "days when we dug up the gold." Roland E. Speckman

Named the “flower garden of Arizona” by miners who admired its abundant poppies, and once it was almost deserted. The little town now has become a thriving community, especially in the summer months. At one time, four mills surrounded the creek, and two stage stations served whiskey to thirsty travelers.

At this point, “primitive road” describes the twisting highway.

Near where Maple Gulch joins the Hassayampa are the remains of the Senator Mine, where gold was worked in the 1860s. Total production is recorded at about $530,000. Remnants of the mine can be seen from the road.This is real forest primeval, with only the short gushing sounds of the creek below to break the solitude. It's hard to believe that this was once a business district with hotels, restaurants, saloons, a church, and school.

Now, climbing to higher levels through pine, mixed conifer, and aspen, the road curves up to and tops out near Mt. Union at over 7,100 feet before it weaves its slow descent into the oak, manzanita, and thorny chaparral of Crook Canyon. Once fifty miner's cabins ringed the east branch of the Hassayampa near Crook City. Now only a lone building marks the spot. The canyon and the collection of cabins were named for General George Crook, the famous Indian fighter.

Farther on, collapsed buildings are what's left of the ghost town of Venezia, which had a store, saloon, stage stop, and post office. The postal service came to an end in 1943.

Down the road a mile or two is Palace Station. The rustic log cabin is one of the oldest structures in Arizona. It served as a stage station at Spencer Spring and was abandoned in 1910. It is now used as an administration and information site by the U. S. Forest Service. Ask managers Susan and Doug Vandergon about some of the history of the old place, which they have managed to refurnish in Victorian style. “This was the halfway point on the stage line from Prescott to Crown King,” Susan will tell you. “In those days, it took a full day to make the trip.” Down the road a few miles is a small sign forlornly announcing that this was once the town of Goodwin, named after John N. Goodwin, the second governor to serve Arizona Territory. Once a bustling supply center for the mines, nothing remains of the old camp today.

The small town of Mayer, ten miles east, on Forest Road 67, beckons as a convenient turn around for the less hardy types, as the roller-coaster Senator gets its second wind and becomes more rugged beyond this point.

The old trail soon approaches a scrubby brush area known as Battle Flat, where a lone five men once stuck it out, holding off 150 Indians in a running battle. None of the white men perished, but it's said they killed 40 Indians.

Ten miles an hour is the limit here, and you drive very carefully on the narrow ribbon road with its twisting hairpin turns, as it slices through the rolling hills of the Bradshaw Mountains.

Now the Senator climbs over 6,000 feet into pine country, past Tuscumbia and Towers mountains and past the scattered remains of foundations which once were Bradshaw City, before reaching the old town of Crown King.

The welcome Crown King Saloon is a good place to dust yourself off and grab some refreshment after the ride on the rambunctious Senator.

Robert and Pat Schmidt have owned the old watering hole for two years. “It's the central part of town and has quite a history to it,” says Robert. “It was built in 1898 at the town of Oro Belle, three miles south, and in 1916 the building was moved here.

“Everything is done at the bar,” says Pat. “Like weddings, everything - even a census. I came in around 4:30 p.m. one day before last Christmas, and we had a bunch sitting around, so I decided to take the official census. We counted 49 full-time people. In the summer we have more, but they're mostly parttime.

“On the weekends, we get a lot of flatlanders, people from the Valley,” she continues. “This road is a real challenge, and they want to see how well they can climb the hills. People come from distances to enjoy the westernstompin' music of our dances. One dance last summer I had 530 people sign the register.” Crown King also includes a general store, a restaurant, and a one-room schoolhouse. Many wood frame houses dot its hillsides. In 1900, the town boasted a population of 500 and sported six saloons, five Chinese restaurants, and two grocery stores.

Art and Judy Downen own the general store (whose sign reads: “Preferred by 5 of 4 people”). Originally from California, they have been here about eight years. “I've always felt it was a privilege to live here,” says Judy. “It is so rugged. You can see what the early miners and pioneers went through.” She explained that many in the area now are retired people, some forest service personnel, and a few old-timers and miners, anticipating mining activity. “Because of the high prices of silver and gold, there has been some real interest in the area. Companies have been exploring around here for about six months,” Judy says.

“We always carried pans for gold panning in stock, and we're always sold out. People come here looking for gold. Everybody has that anticipation.” She adds: “Crown King is the best kept secret around. People spend five to six hours driving to the White Mountains, but the closest pine country is right here.” Like all the old ghosts or near-ghosts in the Bradshaws, Crown King was once a very active mining camp named for the Crown King Mine. Gold was discovered at the site by a school teacher who traded the claim for a saddle to a gent named O. F. Place, who, in turn, used half of his claim to pay off a Bradshaw City storekeeper. They then persuaded Illinois banker, George Harrington, to raise enough capital to develop the claim. In 1885, it produced about $1,500,000 in gold and silver.

The mine also was the reason for the building of a branch of the Prescott and Eastern Railroad called the Bradshaw Mountain Railroad, in 1899 (AHM, Sept. '79). Built by Chinese immigrants, it was a real engineering feat with 12 long switchbacks used to make the climb of more than 3,000 feet, from Turkey Creek (now Cleator) to Crown King. A few years later, the mine was closed by court order. The railroad was torn up in 1927.

Some mining activity is going on now at the Tuscumbia, Button, and Pelican mines. There also is talk that the Gladiator, Savoy, and Lincoln will open up again.

With gold and silver prices gone skyhigh, a prediction in the March 7, 1902, Prescott Weekly Courier may come to pass: “If all signs do not fail, Bradshaw again will take its place as a wealth producer. Steam and electricity will take the place of windlass and arastra, and the taxless toot will replace the great American mule.” Life may begin to stir once more, and the mule would still be a good bet along the roadway that, if not the windingest in Arizona, is surely the most fun.

Yours Sincerely

Comments and questions from around the state, the nation, and the world.

Editor,

Bravo! At last, a magazine with enough "horse sense" to dedicate an entire issue to the cowboy phenomenon! I was so thrilled when my February issue came, that I read it cover-to-cover in a matter of hours. As a cowboy buff, I enjoyed the beautiful pictures and well written text about western and ranch life for both men and women. . . . You hit the nail right on the head as to the psychology behind us cowboy buffs! So, with one hand jammed in the back pocket of my Levi's and the other tipping my cowboy hat, I say "Congrats. Arizona Highways, that was darn sure a mighty fine job on that there All Cowboy Issue!"

Editor,

I am totally offended by "Cowboy Chic." I have always enjoyed Highways because I could pick it up and see beautiful scenery and REAL people. If I want to see Vogue type models, I would purchase their magazine.

Let us assure you, Butch Williams and Cindy Morris are REAL people. They live and work right here in Phoenix Butch was even born here. When it comes to beautiful scenery, real cowboys, and real Vogue type models, let us just say that Arizona is a many splendored land.

Editor,

The article by Karen Thure, on page 12 of AHM Feb. '80, "Women of the West' has moved me as few writings ever have. It reveals to me the hardships and faithfulness of pioneer women in a light that I had hitherto not realized. How they must have loved those pioneer men!

Editor,

In "Back Road to Ruby" the article states, "this settlement (Arivaca) was founded in 1916 with a township deed signed by President Woodrow Wilson." According to Will Barnes the P.O. was established in 1878... I have several snapshots of Arivaca . . . taken about 1903-1908. My mother and father lived there at that time, my father was Justice of the Peace Therefore the town must have been in existence in 1905.Checking with author Dan McGowan: "The name Arivaca was early ascribed to a Pima Indian settlement in the area that was abandoned in 1751 during the Pima Revolt. Charles Debrille Poston purchased Arivaca, a deserted ranch, from Tomas and Ignacio Ortiz in 1856. By 1878, this Arivaca included a post office and several businesses. However, the current townsite of Arivaca was platted and surveyed in this century and founded with a township deed signed by President Wilson in 1916. Perhaps this townsite is located in a slightly different place than the 19th century townsite."

Editor,

First of all, I commend you on your photography, which is the world's best. My 3rd grade teacher is Ronald Muench (I'm 12 years old). He (supposedly) is related to Josef and David Muench (which just goes to prove that some people read the little captions under the pictures). And your articles are beautifully written too. My stepfather was a cowboy, and your February issue goes to prove that you don't lie! (He affirmed it.) I lived in Arizona for 8 years (now I live in Safety Harbor, Florida) and all it does is make me homesick every time I look at your magazine . . . Again I say you have an extremely wonderfully written and photographed magazine.

Thank you for your very kind words, but with talented contributors like Josef and David Muench it's pretty hard to miss. Just for the fun of it, we phoned Josef Muench to see if he had any relatives in your part of the country. "Not that I know of," he said, "I think he's pulling your leg. But Muench is a popular name and there seem to be more of them here (in America) than in Germany."

Editor,

It might be of interest to you to know my mother was the school teacher during those wild and wooly days in Ruby (AHM Jan. '80). She was a close friend of Ines Frasier, widow of one of the men murdered in the Ruby store . . . she (my mother) married a man named Oliver Foltz, who owned a small store and laundry in Ruby. My mother's maiden name was Nora Dunn.

35mm COLOR SLIDES

This issue: 35mm slides in 2" mounts, 1 to 15 slides, 50 each, 16 to 49 slides, 45¢ each, 50 or more, 3 for $1.25. Allow three weeks for delivery. Address: Slide Department, Arizona Highways, 2039 West Lewis Avenue, Phoenix, Arizona 85009.

(Inside back cover) Gussie Wood came to Arizona in 1905 and now resides in the Arizona Pioneer's Home. But retirement is only part-time for Gussie. Once each week she eagerly takes up the task of hostess at the Sharlot Hall Museum's Fremont House in Prescott. J. Peter Mortimer (Back cover) Nestled among the rolling foothills of Prescott Country, historic Jerome dreams in the Arizona sun. The old town, built on the eastern slope of Mingus Mountain, attracts sightseers from around the world to its turn-of-the-century buildings, museum, quaint shops, and gourmet restaurants. Read "The Many Moods of Prescott Country," beginning on page 18. Kathleen Norris Cook