BY: Laura Jackson,William Hafford

Totally Topo

We didn't try this, but we're told that if you stuck together all the topographical maps in the Arizona Atlas & Gazetteer, you'd have a mural eight feet high and nearly seven feet across. That's just to give you an idea of the large scale (one inch equals four miles) of this full-color, 11-by-15 1/2inch atlas, which covers Arizona in staggering detail. What that means to hikers, campers, mountain bikers, and other outdoor types is that the maps pinpoint everything from forests, mountains, rivers, and roadways to landing strips, power lines, and even boat ramps. They also reveal the lay of the land, showing elevation contours at 300-foot intervals; BLM and state-owned land are shown in different colors for quick identification; and to top it off there's a section on the state's national parks, national monuments, and national recreation areas, along with tips on points of interest and activities. To obtain a copy of the Arizona Atlas & Gazetteer ($14.95), telephone Arizona Highways toll-free at 1 (800) 543-5432; in the Phoenix area, call 2581000.

Shopping at Yuma Prison

When the desperadoes doing hard time in the infamous Yuma Territorial Prison raked their tin cups across the cell bars, they probably weren't chanting, "We want a gift shop!" Such a convenience would have been among the niceties lacking back when the frontier lockup earned its reputation as a place you don't want to go. But no more.

The prison, which long ago became the Yuma Territorial Prison State Historic Park, now houses a small gift shop area (in the museum) that brandishes souvenirs instead of a six-gun to separate dudes from their cash. Browse around and you'll find books about the prison along In the desert Southwest, well-meaning trekkers sometimes pick up wild tortoises, frightening the reptiles and causing them to empty their bladders. Tortoises store water in their bladders, and releasing it can lead to dehydration and death.

Sources: Arizona Game and Fish and Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum.

with a selection of T-shirts, caps, and cups - ceramic, not tin - with prison-inspired designs. The shop's open during regular visitor hours (daily, except Christmas; 8 A.M. to 5 P.M.). To inquire, call (602) 783-4771.

EVENTS Mayer Daze

June 4; Mayer The old stage stop northwest of Cordes Junction celebrates its pioneer past with a day of down-home fun that includes a parade, arts and crafts, a dance, and a horseshoe tournament. Youngsters won't want to miss the derby race in which all the vehicles are carved out of pine wood. Free admission. Information: 632-4031.

Old West Days

June 5; Holbrook Head downtown to celebrate the good old days in one of the wildest cow towns in the Old West. There'll be arts and crafts, food booths, and stage shows. Don't miss the Bucket of Blood Races: a 10K footrace and a 21mile bike race named in honor of Holbrook's infamous saloon, a lively watering hole owned by gambler Frank Wattron. Free admission. Information: 524-6558.

Pine Country Chili Cook-off

June 11; Flagstaff For a hot time in the cool country, it's hard to beat a regional chili festival with a soupcon of humor. When you're not sampling the fiery cuisine ($2 tasting cup charge), you can cheer hopefuls in the Shout 'N' Holler contest, watch out for flying missiles at the Tortilla Fling, and pick your favorites in the Miss Chile Pepper and Mr. Hot Sauce competitions. Free admission. Information: 526-4314.

Territorial Days

June 11-12; Prescott A highlight of this event is the Historical Homes Tour (Saturday)which takes visitors inside some of the mile-high town's most impressive buildings dating from territorial days. Hosts in period costumes share interesting tidbits about the buildings and the folks who lived and worked in them. Shuttle buses make getting to all the stops easy. (Purchase tour tickets at Carnegie Library Building at Gurley and Marina and at the Pink House at Courthouse Plaza). Rounding out the weekend are a host of diversions at picturesque Courthouse Plaza, everything from square dances and arts and crafts to face painting. At the food booths, try the Indian fry bread and top it off with strawberry shortcake. Fair admission is free. Information: 1 (800) 266-7534.

Garlic Festival

June 11-12; Sedona Professional and amateur chefs gather at the Poco Diablo Resort to cook up dishes celebrating the magic of garlic. Also on the menu: live entertainment, arts and crafts, historical reenactments, and Arizona wine sampling. Admission is $12 for adults; kids 12 and under are free. Information: 567-6585.

Mountain Frontier Days

June 25-26; Pinetop-Lakeside These tandem towns in a piney countryside dotted with lakes team up to throw a weekend festival boasting a juried arts and crafts fair that displays only handcrafted works. There'll also be a chili cook-off, gunfight reenactments, live country-western music, continuous entertainment, and food booths. Hours are daily 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. Admission is $3, adults; free, kids under 12. Information: 367-4290.