GREAT WEEKENDS

Historic Hotels and Great Mexican Food Add Spice to the Old Pueblo's Charms

Some, like me, are lucky enough to live in Tucson. The rest of the world comes to visit. Spend a few days here, and you'll soon see why. Sure, there's our great weather year-round, resorts with acres of golf greens, and sights to see ranging from Old Tucson, a Western theme park and movie location, to a futuristic science experiment called Biosphere 2, and the world renowned Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. But for me, Tucson's real attraction can be found in the life-style, born of its history. Despite its size - a sprawling 500 square miles and its population-750,000 - the "Old Pueblo" offers a relaxing, laid-back ambiance reflecting centuries of a rich cultural legacy. And that legacy is everywhere in the buildings, in the music and voices of the people, even in the favorite foods of locals and visitors alike. History, and its lasting gifts, that's the lure. The Spanish established their presidio, or fort, here in 1776 - giving rise to Tucson's nickname but they were newcomers. Indigenous people had settled and farmed in the area for centuries. Tucson has been within the borders of the Spanish Empire, on the land of independent Mexico, and part of the United States since 1853. We even had a brief stint as part of the Confederacy during the Civil War. You can get the best sense of Tucson by making your visit here a historical one, by traveling back in time. First stop, the last years of the 18th century and the magnificent Mission San Xavier del Bac. An internationally recognized treasure of Spanish Colonial art and architecture, San Xavier ranks as a "must see" on every Tucsonan's list. Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, the Jesuit missionary and explorer, founded the mission site in 1692, but the church that stands today was built under the direction of the Franciscans in 1797. The church still serves the people of this region, so don't be surprised to find yourself in the middle of a religious service. Do feel free to sit and study the paintings, statues, the stunning altar piece. The mission complex also includes a museum and gift shop. Now move forward about one hundred years to your next destination: downtown Tucson and the presidio section that once housed the soldiers of Spain. Center your visit around Meyer Street. Here you can see one of the oldest structures in Tucson, La Casa Cordova, with its rooms restored to show how people lived there more than a century ago. Typical of the period of 1850 to 1880, the house was built of adobe with saguaro cactus ribs used for the roof, dirt for the floor.

By the early 1900s, housing in the area had undergone a remarkable change. The walls of the presidio were gone and "Snob Hollow," home of the city's movers and shakers, arose from the dust. A few blocks north on Main Street stands the J. Knox Corbett House, a 1906 Mission Revival Bungalow. No cactus and dirt here. The construction is brick and stucco; the roof, clay tile. Open to the public, the house is faithfully furnished in the period, down to the feather-topped hats and high-button shoes in the bedroom closet. Go back to the corner of Main and Meyer for some modernday shopping in an old-Tucson setting. Old Town Artisans in the Presidio Historic District encompasses a city block of stores within the walls of a single adobe building, circa the 1850s. Here you'll find artistry of the region: fine art, one-of-akind pottery, glassware, jewelry, and folk art.

For those in need of a respite for both body and palate, there's a courtyard here served by La Cocina restaurant. You can assume "the Tucson position": sitting on a patio with good food in front of you. Palate pleasing is easy in Tucson. Eateries range from the Tack Room, holding the coveted AAA Five Diamond rating, to the family-owned cafes that have earned the approval of the locals. Mexican food is a favorite and often the basis of spirited debate.

Explains longtime resident Rudy Casillas: "Ask 10 Tucsonans the name of the best Mexican restaurant in town, and you'll get 10 different answers."

Yes, and they will all be right. We have that shared history with Mexico. The heritage is strong, and the food is great.

Within the Presidio Historic District, you'll come to the El Charro Cafe, a family-owned restaurant that has been serving Tucson since 1922. Local residents and national restauGrant reviewers keep El Charro on the top of their lists. The restaurant also leaves a lasting impression on visitors.

"The last time I was here was 1948," proclaimed one out-of-towner during a recent El Charro lunch hour. He said he remembered the room he was in, with its fireplace and The Mosaic Cafe on the city's west side offers another choice for Mexican food. No question About authenticity or freshness here. The Tortilla Lady appears twice a day to prepare flour tortillas on the grill in the dining room.

At some point, you are going to have to find a home base for your Tucson stay. The choices are many and varied. Bed and

Breakfast inns and motel chains

dot the city.

Luxury resorts nestle in the foothills of the Catalina Mountains to the north.

But in keeping with the historical theme of the visit, consider spending your nights at the venerable Old World Arizona Inn. Minutes from downtown, this charming salmon-walled, blue-shuttered hotel has offered visitors including such famous folk as Clark Gable and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor an oasis from the stresses of everyday life since 1930. "Civilized" is the word that comes to mind sitting in the hotel's reading room. "Peaceful" and "beautiful" are the superla-tives for the acres of lawn and gardens. The guest rooms are cozy and unpretentious, each unique in furnishings and size. If there is any problem with this hotel, it is that once you're here, you may find it difficult to leave. But leave you must,

for there is another Tucson

tradition to be honored: watching the sun set.

With an elevation of 2,389 feet, rising to those foothills and then the mountains, Tucson offers countless sites for unobstructed views of nature's light show. Some Tucsonans head for Gates Pass, overlook-ing Saguaro National ParkWest. If you go, plan to linger awhile. Sunsets are meant to be ing Saguaro National ParkWest. If you go, plan to linger awhile. Sunsets are meant to be

savored. One resident claims a rocky marriage found new footing here as she and her husband sat together watching the day give up the last of its beauty.

Later you can join other Tucsonans for an evening meal at the Cafe Terra Cotta. Locals fill the restaurant with their good appetites and strong voices. The menu is eclectic duck breast in Tequila sauce, for example and the servings

WHEN YOU GO

LOCATION: 115 miles southeast of Phoenix.

WEATHER: Average temperature in March: high, 73° F.; low, 45°.

LODGING: The Arizona Inn, (800) 933-1093.

Other choices with historic connections include The Lodge on the Desert, bountiful. Yes, there is a patio.

A few doors away, you can explore Bahiti Indian Arts, a shop offering collector-quality traditional and contemporary Native American art. If you aren't a collector but want to become one, talk to the sales personnel they're a good source of information. Now, if you are still willing, you have one more historical site to visit. The Cushing Street Bar and Grill awaits in a downtown building that dates from 1857. The atmosphere inside is relaxed and chummy. Jazz and blues musicians entertain outside in the courtyard. If you're there on a Saturday night, stay late. Tucson wakes up slowly on Sundays.

Some choose to greet this day of rest with a walk, a run, a grab for the paper and cup of coffee. However, if brunch is your plan, the one at the Westin La Paloma resort comes complete with a breathtaking floor to sky-high ceiling view of the Catalinas.

Then, to bring your historical tour closer to the present, look to the east and the Pima Air and Space Museum. Tens of thousands of service personnel passed through Tucson during World War II, and many learned to fly here. At Garden Bistro, (520) 742-6000, ext. 7020.

ATTRACTIONS: J. Knox Corbett House, 180 N. Main Ave. La Casa Cordova, 175 N. Meyer Ave. Saguaro National Park West, on North Kinney Road two miles northwest of the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, (520) 733-5100.

At the museum, you will see their planes and those of other generations. Covering Kitty Hawk to the Space Age, the exhibition includes more than 250 aircraft. Plan to stay at least two or three hours.

For a mellow ending to your Tucson visit, and a relaxing opportunity to reflect on what you want to do here the next time, head to a little-known gem called Tohono Chul Park. The wandering paths of this 48acre desert preserve take you into the rich plant life of the land that gave Tucson birth. An exhibition gallery offers fine art, and The Tea Room actually does serve afternoon tea as well as breakfast and lunch on yet another patio.

Pick your pleasure, then sit back under that blue, blue sky and relax one last time, Old Pueblo-style.

Pima Air and Space Museum, 6000 Ε. Valencia Road, (520) 574-9658. Tohono Chul Park, 7366 Ν. Paseo del Norte, (520) 575-8468.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Metropolitan Tucson Convention and Visitors Bureau, 130 S. Scott St., Tucson, AZ 85701; (800) 638-8350.