GREAT WEEKENDS

great weekends In the Cool Country, Flagstaff Boasts a Scenic Skyride, a Starry Sky, and Old Town Shopping

When I say, “I’m going out long for the views,” people in Flagstaff who know me know what I mean. These rambles are my way of appreciating this northern Arizona town with spectacular vistas in all directions: crystal-clear sweeps from the mountaintops - the highest in the state twinkling stars in night skies so perfect they inspired a famous observatory, and closeups of an eclectic downtown that offers both Navajo tacos and cappuccino along with its restored historic buildings.

My idea of the perfect summer “viewing weekend” starts at the Arizona Snowbowl, of all places. Most people associate the Snowbowl with winter skiing, but in summer, one of the lifts becomes a scenic skyride up the San Francisco Peaks. When the magic carpet called the Agassiz chair lift glides up to them, sightseers slide into an open seat, clamp down on the safety bar, and hold on. Although acrophobes might have a problem, this really is a ride for everybody. The passengers look pleasantly relaxed as the thick gray steel cables creak and thump, sending the chair lift shimmying along through a tunnel of fir and spruce trees. The chair lift rises vertically 1,198 feet from Agassiz Lodge to the final point just shy of stunning 12,356-foot-high Agassiz Peak. From the top, look left across the saddle to see Humphreys Peak, at 12,643 feet the highest of the high in these parts. The view also encompasses neighboring Kendrick and Bill Williams mountains and Hart Prairie. A word of warning: Those in shorts will be shivering by now with the 20-degree drop in temperature. Some savvy folks come prepared with blankets for the ride back down. In addition, August afternoons often bring monsoon storms. Those cloud pufflets that looked so innocent in the early morning may have grown in size and darkened ominously by the afternoon, producing thunderstorms with lightning. Riders should keep in mind the sign at the bottom of the lift that cautions “No Weather-Related Refunds.” Back down at the lodge, if the weather's good, enjoy lunch on the deck, accompanied by local musicians. In Flagstaff, nightlife can mean gazing at the star-studded sky. Astronomy has a long and noble tradition here, ever since 1894 when Bostonian Percival Lowell chose a site overlooking the town for his observatory, from which the planet Pluto would be discovered in 1930. Located on Mars Hill in west Flagstaff, Lowell Observatory

Of time browsing through the classic literature and Southwestern collections. The wellread owners, Evan Midling and Patricia Uding, hand-select the used and rare books in the shop. The Old Town Shops, just up the street, offers an eclectic mix of stores, including clothing, shoes, bath goods, cards and posters, wine, candy, and a

WHEN YOU GO

LOCATION: 146 miles north of Phoenix; 257 miles north of Tucson.

WEATHER: Average temperature in August: high, 78° F.; low, 40° F.

PHONE NUMBERS: All phone numbers are in Area Code 520 unless noted; 800 numbers are toll-free.

LODGING: Birch Tree Inn, 824 W. Birch Ave., 774-1042 or (888) 774-1042. Dierker House Bed & Breakfast, 423 W. Cherry Ave., 774-3249. Lynn's Inn, 614 W. Santa Fe Ave., 226-1488 or (800) 530-9947. Weatherford Hotel, 23 N. Leroux St., 774-2731.

RESTAURANTS: Charly's Pub & Grill at the Weatherford Hotel, 779-1919. Pasto, 19 E. Aspen Ave., 779-1937. Cafe Espress, 16 N. San Francisco St., 774-0541. Martan's Burrito Palace, 10 N. San Francisco St., 773-4701.

ATTRACTIONS: Arizona Snowbowl, scenic skyride, U.S. Route 180 and Snowbowl Road, 779-1951. Lowell Observatory, 1400 W. Mars Hill Road, 774-2096. The Artists Gallery, 17 N. San Francisco St., 773-0958. Starrlight Books, 15 N. Leroux St., 774-6813. Historic Railroad District, Main Street Flagstaff Foundation, 323 W. Aspen Ave., 774-1330. Arizona Theatre Works, 120 N. Leroux St., 774-7555. The Kitchen Source, 112 E. Route 66, 779-2302. The Flagstaff SummerFest takes place the first full weekend of August, 774-5130 or 888-ARTFEST.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Flagstaff Visitor Center, 1 E. Route 66, (800) 842-7293. Flagstaff Convention and Visitors Bureau, 323 W. Aspen Ave., 779-7611.

deli. Downstairs literally underground the Arizona Theatre Works presents professional plays on weekends year-round. Just on the edge of downtown, on Route 66, The Kitchen Source shines with the personality of its owner, Mindy Karlsberger. Here you'll find a delightful inventory of kitchen and dining goodies: utensils, cookbooks, linens, hand-crafted pottery, candles, cutlery, teas, a local concoction called Hendo's Famous Angus Sauce, and even occasional pieces of painted furniture. Some downtown stores close on Sundays, so Saturday is the day to browse and buy. For more views of the natural kind, take a stroll on the Flagstaff Urban Trail System FUTS for short. The trail leads from the library-city hall area, follows the Rio de Flag, and leads back to Thorpe Park and Mars Hill. An unpaved path suitable for walkers and bicyclists, it passes schools, friendly neighborhoods, and even a duck pond. I've discovered that "going out long for the views" in Flagstaff can take as much time as you want it to just remember to look in all directions and dimensions.M