GREAT WEEKENDS

great weekends Friendly Payson Greets Rodeo Fans, Shoppers With Hearty Hospitality and Cool, Clean Air

Payson has a lot more going for it than being the gateway to the recreation-rich Mogollon Rim Country made famous by novelist Zane Grey. Sitting 90 miles northeast of Phoenix, Payson calls itself "The Heart of Arizona." And for the people who live there, that's not just a reference to the town's location. In the early 1880s, miners searching for gold settled the area, but when their efforts didn't pan out, they turned to ranching and lumbering. Today Payson turns on all its Western charm to encourage visitors to enjoy its antique shops, candle factory, unusual zoo, outdoor activities and its celebrations, like this month's August Doin's with its famed old rodeo.

In 1884 a group of cowboys organized an informal competition called August Doin's for the downtime before the fall roundup. Now in its 116th year, the rodeo takes place at Payson's Rumsey Park on the third week of the month. Audiences come from across the state to celebrate the town's Wild West heritage at what's billed as the "World's Oldest Continuous Rodeo in the United States." Professionals compete in all rodeo events, including steer wrestling, barrel racing and calf roping. The action, rough and tumble atmosphere and rodeo clowns turned me into a fan after a few short hours. While walking the rodeo grounds I ran into one of Payson's living treasures, historian Al Ayers. Known for his free historical programs, Ayers acts as a guide for Payson's visitors. The only thing he asks in return for his stories is a donation to the Payson Time Out Shelter for Abused Women, Zane Grey Shrine Club, ClotheA-Child Program or any other Payson charity. Ayers often assumes the identity of an 1860s Army scout or an 1870s cowboy while entertaining. He also volun-teers at the chamber of commerce's visitors center. "It's the friendliest town in Arizona," he said, smiling. "You'll never meet a friendlier bunch." Ayers and his wife, Nancy, occasionally pack up and search the countryside for new and exciting discoveries to share with friends and strangers. "I know a place where you can pick up a bucket of geodes without moving from one spot," he exclaimed. A 17-mile drive east of Payson leads those seeking outdoor adventure to the stables at Kohl's Ranch lodge. Back in Payson, I found a couple of bed and breakfasts, including the luxurious Fountain Inn and Spa, and a variety of cabins, lodges and inns. If you choose from accommodations that don't offer breakfast, try the Swiss Village Bakery and Cafe. I paced the glass bakery case trying to choose among the tempting creations. The more traditional Danishes, bear claws and twists lay next to flower-topped eclairs, apple pan dowdy and cannoli. Eventually, I settled on a cheese pocket and carried with me a bag of treats for later.

Also at the Swiss Village, I picked up a bag of fudge, rock candy and gummi bears at the Sugar Shack, browsed the collectibles and ceramics at Bright Ideas and visited a large candle-making operation. The Payson Candle Factory, opened in 1979 with 800 square feet, now occupies more than 5,000 square feet of the Swiss Village turning out candles ranging from ornate wedding creations to hand-dipped saguaros and colorful elephants. Craftsmen give candle-carving demonstrations in the back room, sculpting elaborate designs from hot dipped candles in 6 to 8 minutes.

Although most of Payson's antique shops line the Beeline Highway (State Route 87), State Route 260 yields another corridor of homey shops and boutiques. Granny's Attic Antique Mart takes shoppers through rooms filled with furniture, dolls, bottles, jewelry, quilts, books, tools and tackle. Here you can pick up a South Bend Bass Oreno fishing lure, a pad-lock complete with a bullet hole, a 1930s Remington type-writer, an original May 7, 1945 edition of The Phoenix Gazette proclaiming "Germany Quits" or a first edition of Zane Grey's Wild Horse Mesa.

Back in town, another antique shop, The Carpenter's Wife, revels in its new location on West Wade. Inside the store, visitors search for antique furniture, quilts and baby accessories. I saw an Italian pram the day I visited. There's also a gift shop.

After a morning in Payson's shops, I spent the afternoon outside at The Payson Zoo, 6.5 miles east of town on Lion Spring Road. The zoo, run by Randy Ferry, houses an odd collection of retired animal superstars and other non-releasable wildlife requiring care. "The zoo is basically an orphanage," said Ferry. "We have these animals because no one wanted them." Each orphan has its own story, which Ferry relates as he guides visitors through the menagerie. Lefty, a great horned owl missing a wing, turns his head if he doesn't want to be watched. Ralph, an 18-year-old lion seen on Russ Lyon Realty billboards, takes it easy now that he's been retired from commercial work. And Ellie, an orphaned black bear, shows off her Chewbacca impersonation by roaring loudly for a marshmallow treat.

This kind of outdoor fun remains part of Payson's appeal, with its cool temperatures, ponderosa pines and the geologic wonder of the nearby Mogollon Rim. Sometimes called Zane Grey Country, for the famed novelist who popularized this little bit of paradise, the area draws visitors wanting the Western experience ence the they've read about. The Rim Country Museum displays the blueprints of Grey's cabin, which burned to the ground in the Dude Fire of 1990, and plans to build a replica of it on the grounds. Buildings at the museum include the first district ranger's office and residence; a replica of the historic Herron Hotel, which was lost to fire in 1918; and the upper section of the Forest Service lookout tower from Mount Ord. The museum boasts exhibits ranging from a pioneer kitchen to a blacksmith shop. And, of course, Zane Grey memorabilia makes an impressive appearance in old movie posters, books and his personal player piano.

After being treated to a demonstration of the working model sawmill at the museum, I wandered outdoors again and down to the path around the Green Valley Lake. People lay on the grassy slopes. Some played a game of tag football; others took a picnic break under the branches of towering pines. Eight-year-old Blake Rocco sat intently at the lake's edge, fishing pole in hand. He showed me his catch of bluegill and sunfish before confiding his hope of bringing in a trophy largemouth bass. After noticing my lack of fishing gear, this young gentleman offered me his pole.

The boy's gesture came from the heart. Payson's cowboys, antiques dealers, volunteer tour guides and hosts have earned it the nickname I now understand. After all, the blue skies, crisp air and rich green for-ests inspired Zane Grey's pop-ular Western novels, but the characters populating those pages made the country come alive.

Location: 90 miles northeast of Phoenix.

Weather: Average temperature in August: high, 89°; low, 57*.

Phone Numbers: All area codes are 520 unless otherwise noted. 800 series are toll-free.

Lodging: Fountain Inn and Spa, 801 E. Granite Dells Road; 474-0622. Kohl's Ranch Lodge, 17 miles east of Payson on State Route 260; 478-4211 or (800) 331-5645.

Restaurants: Swiss Village Bakery and Cafe, 800 N. Beeline Hwy.; 474-0891.

Attractions: Kohl's Ranch Stables, 478-0030. Mazatzal Casino, Tonto Apache Indian Reservation, State Route 87 South; (800) 777-PLAY or 474-6044. Sugar Shack, 634 N. Beeline Hwy.; 474-3254. The Payson Candle Factory, 620 N. Beeline Hwy.; 474-2152. Bright Ideas, 614 N. Beeline Hwy; 472-7772. Granny's Attic Antique Mart, 800 E. Hwy. 260; 474-3962. The Carpenter's Wife, 112 W. Wade, Payson; 472-7343. The Payson Zoo, H.C. 5, Box 75, 6.5 miles east of Payson; 474-5435. Rim Country Museum, 700 Green Valley Parkway; 474-3483. Al Ayers historical tours, 474-2594.

Events: August Doin's, World's Oldest Continuous Rodeo, Thursday through Sunday, August 17-20. For information, call the chamber (listed below).