BACK ROAD ADVENTURE

adventure This scenic drive up MOUNT LEMMON rises 7,000 feet in elevation from the desert floor

MY FRIEND THERESA IS AFRAID OF HEIGHTS, so when I suggested heading for the Santa Catalina Mountains on the outskirts of Tucson and taking the scenic drive up Mount Lemmon, topped off with a ride on the ski lift, she displayed a noticeable lack of enthusiasm. But when I reminded her on that spring day with a temperature of 90 degrees that the 27-mile paved road to the 9,157-foot summit of the peak would take us through a 7,000-foot elevation change and an average temperature drop of 30 degrees from the desert floor, she acquiesced. After a 90-minute drive from Phoenix to Tucson, we head east on Grant Road until it turns into Tanque Verde, then take a left (northeast) at Catalina Highway, and after 6.5 miles start the drive up the Sky Island Scenic Byway. The trip to the peak of Arizona's most famous “sky island” traverses six life zones, or vegetation changes, and compares to a drive from Mexico to Canada in less than 30 miles.

After 4 miles we stop at the Babad Do’ag, the first viewpoint, and gaze at a panoramic vista of Tucson. We marvel at the ribbons of light and dark in the rock strata, called gneiss, visible where the road cuts through the mountain. Two miles later, we stop at the ranger station to pay the $5 day fee. We see changes in the vegetation already as the saguaro cacti disappear, and the oak woodland including Mexican blue oak and juniper trees and red-branched manzanitas begin dotting the hillsides.

At mile 9, the Seven Cataracts Vista, at about 5,000 feet, offers the opportunity to spot the waterfalls that are supposed to be visible across the canyon. But the beautiful spring day we started with seems to be rapidly changing. Gray clouds hover below the mountain peaks, throwing ominous purple shadows across the scene. Even without seeing waterfalls today, the view impresses us. Huge sycamore and cypress trees turn the hillside blue-green, reminding me of a Thomas Cole landscape painting. At mile 12,Cypress, Middle Bear and Chihuahua Pine picnic areas and nearby General Hitchcock Campground induce us to take a break among silverleaf Arizona and emory oak, ponderosa pine, Chihuahua pine and alligator bark juniper trees.

After a cold drink from our ice chest, we proceed to the Windy Point Vista at mile 14 and an elevation higher than 6,000 feet. I try to identify a tree overflowing with pink blossoms growing right next to the parking area. It’s familiar, but I just can’t make the connection. (Three days later, after futilely perusing numerous native plant guides, I would call the Santa Catalina Ranger District and learn to my amazement that it’s a peach tree, and no one knows how it came to grow there.) We cross the road from the parking area and climb up to the viewpoint where a barrier wall keeps people from falling into the canyon. Nervous parents tightly grip the hands of chil-dren. Though not living up to its breezy name today, the lookout offers a spectacular view of sprawling Tucson and the canyon below. It also presents an unequaled look at the geology of

the area. Fanciful granite and gneiss rock formations, known as hoodoos, fill the landscape, tak ing on as many shapes and faces as time and imagination allow.

Driving on, we stop at San Pedro Vista at mile 17.6, at about 7,000 feet in elevation. The temperature drops as we sit in a ponderosa pine for-est and look out over the verdant San Pedro River valley and the Galiuro and Pinaleno mountain ranges, including Mount Graham, at 10,717 feet, the highest peak in southern Arizona. A cliff chipmunk and rock squirrel come out from behind the rocks and scold us, as if to say, “Are you just going to sit there?” We leave the animals chattering at us as some agitated tiny whitethroated swifts buzz us on our way.

At 19.9 miles and 8,000 feet, the Palisades Visitor Center furnishes rest rooms, provides free area maps and sells books and souvenirs. While walking back to the car, we are astonished to see small white things floating in the air. It's spring back down in Tucson, but it's snowing up here. On the last 5 miles up the mountain, we pass more campgrounds and picnic areas where we see families scurrying to cars to retrieve jackets. We pass the turnoff to the ski area at mile 24.8 and continue for a lunch stop in Summerhaven, a small town with fewer than 200 residents. Homemade soup and pie at the Mt. Lemmon Cafe quiet our growling stomachs. Leaving town, we resist stopping at the gift shop or having another dessert at the bakery or ice cream store.

With the temperature dropping and more snow falling, postponing our ride on the Mount Lemmon Ski Valley ski lift seems like a good idea.

Two months later on a hot summer day, we're back. Theresa struggles to overcome her fear of heights as we jump onto the lift chair and whoosh up the mountain. At 1,000 feet, the mountain peak and lush forest loom before our eyes, though Theresa mostly looks down and whimpers about how far it is to the ground.

Safe at the top, we're struck by the contrast between the Sonoran Desert 30 miles below and this Canada-like vegetation, in which children play hide and seek among ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, blue spruce and aspen trees.

During our descent, we look out over the whole valley and I'm reminded of the song "On a Clear Day, You Can See Forever." Theresa tries to appreciate the experience, but her grip on the safety bar threatens to leave indentations in the metal. Aspens, their leaves shimmering in the breeze like ribbons of water, festoon the rolling hills on the far-off horizon.

Before leaving, we browse the shops and check out the cafe at the base of the ski lift. A jazz combo entertains us and others munching cookies and drinking sodas on the cafe patio. The temperature is 75 degrees, a big change from the snow of a few weeks earlier.

Back at sea level, Theresa tells me she wouldn't have missed the lofty experience for the world and plans to bring her boys to see the view and maybe camp out - but she does not mention taking them on the ski lift. All WARNING: Back road travel can be hazardous if you are not prepared for the unexpected. Whether traveling in the STATE desert or in the high country, be aware of weather and road conditions, and make sure you and your vehicle are in top shape. Carry plenty of water. Don't travel alone, and let someone at home know where you're going and when you plan to return. Odometer readings in the story may vary by vehicle.

TRAVELER'S ADVISORY: The Palisades Visitor Center is open daily during the summer, only on weekends in the spring, and closed in fall and winter. The Mount Lemmon Ski Valley ski lift operates year-round.ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Coronado National Forest, Santa Catalina Ranger District, (520) 749-8700.