Getting to see the old letters was like finding Sappho’s poems or the Mayan codices. And reading them was like sifting through a midcentury time capsule. Although the hand-scribbled notes have no cash value on the open market, in the history of this magazine, they’re priceless — the missing link to one of our early adventure stories. In 1951, Editor Raymond Carlson hailed that story’s arrival.
“Our guide to some interesting places in the backcountry this issue is writer-photographer-artist Allen Reed, a freelance contributor who finds the further he has to go and the harder he has to work, the better he enjoys the assignment. Witness: a long boat trip down the Verde, where we have not been before.”
As adventures go, the Verde River made an impressive debut. “She’s quite a character, the Verde, with moods by the milefull,” Mr. Reed wrote, as if his words were being choreographed by Bob Fosse. “She’ll ponder for a few hundred yards in deep meditation, burst forth in a gay spurt of foam and spray, splashing through the shallows, swirling down the narrows, splitting at a sand bar, racing herself to the other end and running her fingers through the tall grass and willows of a half submerged island only to pause again, catch her breath and lag along in another deep quiet pond. She’s a pawn of a polygenetic personality ... a blend of countless trickles from a million hills that nourish the rivulets and a score of streams which in turn give the life-flow to the Verde.”
That was just the beginning.
“It was this multitude of lures,” he continued, “that brought together four Arizonans for a trip through the lower Verde last fall. Our party was made up of Herman Womack of Prescott, amateur archaeologist and president of the Yavapai Archaeological Society of Northern Arizona; and Albert Owsley and Carl Eldridge, employees of the Veterans Administration at Fort Whipple, both outdoorsmen, fishing enthusiasts and interested in archaeology. My twofold part in the expedition was to fulfill an assignment in photographing the Verde Valley and to investigate a variety of mineral possibilities.”
The piece, Verde Valley, was published in March 1951. The story, however, began eight months earlier, on July 9, 1950, when Billy Laughery, a backcountry philosopher and explorer from Whipple, Arizona, sent a letter to Mr. Carlson.
“During the last week in May and the first week in June,” he wrote, “a friend and I made a wonderful trip by rubber rafts down ‘The Verde.’ ... I thought, What a wonderful trip for R.C. and one of his ‘Arizona Highway’ [sic] photographers.”
Like the Bedouin teenagers who stumbled upon the Dead Sea Scrolls, Brent Reed was digging through worn boxes in his father’s archive when he found the old letters. There were three about the Verde River. The first was addressed to Raymond Carlson. “I think he must have passed the letter on to my dad,” Brent told me with the assurance of a man who’d given it some thought.
Brent and I were having coffee near a park and rapping like groupies about the golden era of Arizona Highways, a time before either of us was born. The letters immediately caught my attention. You have what? How old are they? Are they still intact? So many questions.
As the editor of Arizona Highways, I’m always curious about my predecessors, and how they decided what stories to put in the magazine. In the case of Mr. Carlson, most of what we published stemmed from the advanced salience network in his head. Like Spielberg or J.K. Rowling, he always seemed to know what would resonate. “He had a sixth sense,” longtime photographer Willis Peterson recently told me.
But the story about the Verde Valley wasn’t Mr. Carlson’s. It was the brainchild of a mountain man who fell in love with a river. A guy who might have been Bill Williams, had he been born five decades earlier. Although Billy Laughery didn’t live off the grid, he would have liked to.
“He found spiritual inspiration in the beauty of nature and the outdoors,” Brent says, “and also from Native American beliefs and teachings. Despite permanently injuring one of his legs — either while serving in World War I or while working as a miner in a flagstone quarry — Billy hiked and explored all over the backcountry of Northern and Central Arizona, from the 1920s to the early 1970s.”
Wherever he went, he was fully in his element.
“He was slight in stature,” Brent says, “but Billy bounced with energy and enthusiasm, and he always had a smile on his face, a twinkle in his eye and a sly sense of humor. He was an amazing human being with a huge heart.”
From that heart came his passion for the Verde. Thus, the scribbled note to Mr. Carlson.
“That letter is what inspired my dad to make the Verde River float trip, and later write the story that appeared in your magazine,” Brent says. “It also included a lot of interesting and practical advice about preparing for the adventure.”
In addition to the initial letter to our editor, there were two more to Allen Reed. In the first, addressed to “Mr. Reed,” Billy wrote about the Verde with the enthusiasm of a Portuguese water dog sticking its head out a car window on the Gower Peninsula. “It will be just about the best of all your illustrated exploration trips,” he explained. “It has everything: beauty, grandeur, isolation, wilderness, fishing, wildlife, Indian ruins, expectations at every mile more than fulfilled ... and a few thrills.”
The third letter was sent to “Allen” after he’d completed the voyage, but before our March issue came out a few months later. Its purpose was to help Mr. Reed identify exactly where he’d been. On a weathered quadrangle map, Billy had written some numbers: 1 through 39. Each of the 39 numbers, which are circled in black ink, corresponds to a set of detailed notes written on a separate page — he chronicled the Verde the way Powell documented the Colorado.
Because the map and its companion notes reveal ancient archaeological sites — many of which still exist today — we’ve left them out of the reproduction that follows. However, if you can picture the maps in the “Grail diary” that Indiana Jones carried around, then you’ll have a pretty good sense of Billy’s map. It’s a treasure. Like the ancient ruins it pinpoints.
With the exception of the map info, all three of Billy’s letters are replicated verbatim. Almost. We did correct a few minor spelling errors. Otherwise, we kept our hands off. To alter the syntax would have been like sending Huckleberry Finn to finishing school — can you imagine The Adventures of Tom Sawyer after Brillantmont?
“I think his passion and enthusiasm are revealed through his loose and colloquial writing style,” Brent says. “He writes the same way as I remember him speaking: with animation, and always a touch of folksy humor. As a young kid, whenever I said something that he agreed with, he’d say, ‘You can bet’cher boots on that.’ ”
William Alvah Laughery died on June 12, 1987, at the age of 98. Thank you, Billy, for all you gave to this world, including these priceless letters.
DEAR R.C. AND FRIEND:
July 9, 1950
During the last week in May and the first week in June (this year) — a friend & I made a wonderful trip by Rubber Rafts down “The Verde” from “Childs” to Horseshoe Dam.
We had intended to put in for the start just below “Camp Verde,” but because of the low water there, we made our start at “Childs.” We planned to make it a leisurely twelve day trip, fishing, exploring for Indian Ruins & for Gem Stones — and just loafing.
It was the grandest & most enjoyable two weeks I’ve ever spent — way beyond expectations all along. I thought of “what a wonderful trip for R.C. and one of his “Arizona Highway” photographers.
I took some Kodak Color & a few black & white, and would like to send them to you to enjoy — and perhaps to interest you to the point that yourself and a photographer friend would plan such a trip for “Arizona Highways.”
If you would wish to see the pictures (over 50); I would be very pleased to mail them to you with return postage (because I would want them back). The trip could be made in much shorter time than our twelve days; even by starting below “Camp Verde” and going on to “Bartlett.”
My friend Al [Owsley] & I had two weeks vacation coming & we used it all on that trip, starting with trout fishing on West Clear Creek on Saturday.
We just bummed along, enjoying every minute & mile. We were on the water seven days of the twelve and only once over three hours per day, about 24 hours in all on the water making 45 miles. With higher water we could average over four miles per hr. We had two rafts (as the pictures will show) but next time we intend using only one; a five man Goodyear Rubber Raft same as the leading one in the photos. We found that the combination Canvas & Synthetic Rubber Raft will not stand up. The canvas snags on to the rocks & rips, while the all rubber Goodyear just bounces off. Also one raft is much easier to maneuver than two.
Before start I obtained the USGS “Turret Peak” Quadrangle Map & also “Cave Creek” Quadrangle; which made the trip that much more interesting. The “Verde” passes through a really beautiful & Primitive Wilderness Area. Doves, Quail & Cottontail are very tame; Many Lion tracks, quite a few beaver & Muskrats and Wild Burros a few miles above & below “Sheep Crossing Bridge,” a real photographer could get many interesting shots I missed.
No gnats or insects bothered us, although we had repellent along. A snakebite kit is a must. Inflated air mattresses were used for a double-bottom of the rafts — they saved many a puncture from the rocks. A light tent & a tarpaulin to cover supplies in case of rain, two paddles & a long pole for the shallows. A long (75 ft) nylon cord, surplus army 550# test — to line the raft down a few places — Higher water would make that unnecessary, the only precaution would be to keep away from overhanging Willows (my rear raft swung under such Willows and the tough branches raked me off into the current & was washed down a couple of hundred feet before I could make the bank).
Someday I intend to put in at Camp Verde & end up at Bartlett Dam, some eighty miles plus.
R.C. — Would you like to see the pictures of the trip this Spring? I sure do enjoy your cheery and very descriptive writings — they always bring smiles & leave one in a happy mood.
Sincerely,
Billy Laughery
Whipple, Arizona
p.s. One would have to take both a Fall & a Spring trip down the “Verde” to do justice to its beauty.
DEAR MR. REED:
August 24, 1950
Your swell letter arrived yesterday in response to one I wrote to Mr. Carlson. I have enjoyed all of your illustrated articles published in “Arizona Highways” — also a friend of mine (now in Flagstaff) “Herman Womack” had told me you & he had planned a trip into “Fossil Canyon” to cover the cave where he obtained those complete arrows & bow. It is an interesting country — have been in there twice.
Now about that trip down “The Verde” it will be just about the best of all your illustrated exploration trips (it has everything) beauty, grandeur, isolation, Wilderness, fishing, wildlife, Indian Ruins, expectations at every mile more than fulfilled — and a few thrills. Also deposits of crystals on most of the lower ridges.
Am mailing you at same time as this letter some Kodacolor & black & white photos I took of that country both this spring & last fall. For you to get an idea of its possibilities for photographs & a wonderful story for your readers, “The Verde” will feel more intimate & lovely than a similar trip down the Colorado or its tributaries. With the “Verde” pictures, am enclosing a few of “West Clear Creek” — which you might be interested in obtaining material for a future article. I know it very well, as have spent six weeks of two-week periods exploring the surrounding country.
The sheer 1,800 foot walls of this beautiful canyon & the lovely clear stream are out of this world — especially the many cliff dwellings & caves where the early inhabitants lived, high up above the stream. A two-days trip would give you most of the material you would need.
Now again about “The Verde.” Am very sorry to say — am leaving for three weeks on Sept. 9th — by plane to San Francisco by way of Las Vegas, Reno, and Sacramento. It is my taking a period of Annual Leave.
I have a sleeping bag, air mattress, camping cook-kit, 7x50 binoculars, a two-man mountain tent, & some water-proof bags — all of which you are welcome to. The raft of mine (a combination canvas & rubber with 12-compartments) just did make it to Horseshoe Dam. The 12-air bladders was all I salvaged & the shell was left on the dam. I also have Turret Peak Quadrangle Map.
Please try to make Prescott sometime before the 9th to meet a young friend “Carl Eldridge” on South Marina, Prescott. You two would make a dandy pair for such a trip. Carl has been into the Verde below Bloody Basin — he had planned to go with Al & I this spring, but could not make it then. He has planned to acquire a 5-man 4-compartment Goodyear all-rubber raft, the same as the forward one in the Kodacolor pictures. Two one-man rafts won’t do — the five-man Goodyear with two paddles is perfect. One man forward & one behind on opposite side can control it perfectly & the company and fun of sharing every experience will be something to always cherish.
You could look the world over for years & never find a more agreeable & interesting companion than Carl.
Oh — yes — I also have a miner’s carbide lamp that comes in very handy at camp. You will need two flashlites, two light-weight tarpaulins are needed.
Inflate the air mattress & place in bottom of raft — it both adds to the buoyancy & absorbs many of the shocks from rocks & prevents punctures to the bottom of the raft.
We used (I always do) for a cook-stove — a No. “36” piece of light sheet metal & three cross-strips of flat metal. Rock & mud walls are put up in a jiffy & the cross pieces & sheet iron are set on.
I will make a set if you wish. I always leave the stove at last camp for anyone’s use that may come by.
Take along canteens (you may use mine) for exploring away from the river. A portrait lens would come in handy — you will run onto some Diamond-backs & they seem very tame & will pose for some grand pictures.
Use tennis shoes (Rubber-Canvas Sneakers) while on the river & take along leather shoes for land, three pairs of socks. Don’t roll up your pants — or at least don’t leave them rolled up — sunburn is damn painful, I know.
Keep away from overhanging limbs — I know — I got a good dunking & came up some hundred feet lower down stream. Have a complete change of clothes, in case you get wet. Take some pictures of close-ups in rough-going in embarrassing situations (Al would always say “to heck with pictures, get at that paddle!” — or get ahold of that raft!!”).
If I could see you before I leave — on the map, can show you good camping spots, Indian Ruins & other interesting places. Oh — there are plenty of channel cats for pictures — but will have to throw them back after getting your fill. White Wing & Mourning Dove season will be open.
Sincerely,
Billy Laughery
Whipple, Arizona
p.s. May I have the pictures back before the 8th, wish to take them to California.
DEAR ALLEN:
December 19, 1950
Am always thinking of things when it is too late.
Should have taken more time with your letter concerning the photos & their position on the map.
You said you had a dead-line, so hurried your letter back, without explaining something (It won’t make much difference though).
Where I marked the U.S.G.S. Verde Dam Site is correct — but the Natural Lava Dam Flow spreads out over a mile above that point.
The photo you sent was taken from the East bank looking down river at a point where Sycamore Creek enters & where the river makes a sharp turn to the right, you were facing South-West as you took it. It was taken on the 2nd morning after you broke your first camp, which I have marked on the map as figure (3) (at a spring) — the camp I mean — just above the ladders, am enclosing a portion of a map and have marked places of interest, you can use whatever you see fit, if too late for the present story, then in some other.
Yes, Allen — the Verde Canyon is wild & interesting. Herman was the first one to take me into Bloody Basin.
When you come up, I’ll try & have you meet two Indian friends — I have their confidence & they tell me strange stories (of Fossil Creek area).
Am sorry this has been sent you so late.
Sincerely,
Billy Laughery
Whipple, Arizona
In summarizing his adventure on the Verde River, Mr. Reed wrote: “Mainly she’s a passageway into the backcountry. Like all rivers, she varies with the seasons and can put on quite a show at times if the logs and other drift deposited on boulders and ledges 8 to 10 feet above her usual surface are any evidence.
“If one uses common sense, she’ll take him through with little difficulty, but he mustn’t grow careless, for a few thousand gallons of water dropping down a narrow boulder-filled grade can muster up a lot of power. Though she played a little rough with us at times, she always provided a picture-book picnic campsite, she supplemented our diet with delicious catfish steaks, wild honey and wild dove, which were in season. She quenched our thirst and carried our loads by day, and lulled us to sleep on her banks at night. She lured many wild animals to her edge, and took us by so softly that only at the last moment did they leave. She had a right to a little fun at our expense.
“Yes, she’s quite a character ... the Verde, and traveling her was like traveling a character line etched deeply in the venerable face of Arizona.”
A NOTE OF APPRECIATION to Dr. Harold S. Colton, Director of the Museum of Northern Arizona, for his scientific classification of Verde archaeological data; to Billy Laughery of Whipple, who previously explored the Verde and its tributaries, for his information and advice; to A.L. Monette, Secretary of the Salt River Power District, for statistical data and other information on the Verde; to Mark Cook of Phoenix, for his skillful piloting in and out of canyons in conducting air research, almost low enough to hunt arrowheads; and to my good companions on the trip, Carl, Al and Herman, whose fine cooperation aided greatly in recording the Verde on film.
— Allen C. Reed, March 1951