We foolish humans like to think we’re in complete control of our lives, but Shane Lovett, the owner of Rim Country BBQ and Wood Fired Pizza in Payson, operates on blind faith — and his life has been all the sweeter for it. He didn’t know much about barbecue when he and his wife, Gayle, bought the thriving restaurant from Robert and Debi Santoro in 2023. But he knew he loved Payson, and he characterizes his countless camping and fishing trips there as “a love affair with the Mogollon Rim.” His parents had also recently moved to the mountain town, so when Gayle discovered — on Valentine’s Day, no less — that a barbecue-slash-pizza joint, housed in a charming 1920s-era bungalow, was for sale in that very town, it felt like kismet.
Lovett, who spent 25 years in the restaurant business in Phoenix — rising through the ranks at Fox Restaurant Concepts to become operations manager for eight Sam Fox restaurants — was already adept at handling myriad day-to-day details; as he says, he’s a pro at “wearing all the hats.” He’d also learned a thing or two about pizza, both from his granddad, who owned a pizza place in Riverside, California, and from his stint at Fox’s pizza-centric North Italia.
As for the barbecue, Lovett wisely retained pitmaster Justin Wilson, a barbecue boss who wrangles two giant smokers and stacks of pecan wood to turn out classics such as spare ribs, brisket, pulled pork, turkey and cheddar-jalapeño sausage. Although Wilson’s style defies strict categorization, it bears resemblance to the straightforward simplicity of Texas barbecue. And his brisket and pork belly burnt ends, smoked for 10 to 15 hours, are a glorious paradox of crispiness and unctuous fat — excellent unadorned, but even better dunked in a half-dozen different sauces, including spicy barbecue, tangy South Carolina-style gold and cranberry citrus (deliciously reminiscent of Thanksgiving when eaten with the turkey).
It’s rare to find a full-service barbecue restaurant, and perhaps just as rare to find one with a homey ambience and umbrella-shaded patio presided over by a towering oak tree. But the best amenity of all is surely the option to eat two of America’s favorite dishes under one roof. Using the wood-fueled pizza oven the Santoros left on the patio, Lovett and Wilson worked on creating a crisp, airy pizza crust sturdy enough to support toppings such as brisket, fennel sausage and pepperoni (on the Mogollon Monster) or pulled pork with hand-torn mozzarella and pineapple (on the Kalua Pork). To wash it all down, Lovett offers beer, craft cocktails and wine, including a shelf full of high-end reds from wineries such as Domaine Serene, Caymus and Alpha Omega. It’s just one more perk from a guy who thrives on making things happen.
Rim Country BBQ and Wood Fired Pizza
202 W. Main Street
Payson, AZ
United States