Castle Hot Springs Road

With the Valley of the Sun ever expanding, it’s hard to believe a pristine Sonoran Desert drive can still be found an hour or so (traffic permitting) from downtown Phoenix. Yet the Hieroglyphic Mountains, north of the Valley, offer exactly that via Castle Hot Springs Road, where you’ll encounter surprising greenery, mountain views and a lodging destination with more than a century of history.

Like most roads, this one can be driven in either direction, but if you’re going from west to east, start near Morristown on State Route 74. Here, Castle Hot Springs Road begins as a paved two-lane route, but after 2 miles, the pavement gives way to wide, smooth dirt as it begins to climb into the Hieroglyphics. This range, like the Hieroglyphic Trail in the Superstition Mountains, got its name by mistake: Hieroglyphs are an Ancient Egyptian writing system, while the ancient rock etchings found in Arizona are petroglyphs. The name, however, endures.

You won’t see any petroglyphs from the road, but you will see a prominent knobby butte, Red Picacho, straight ahead, along with numerous saguaro and cholla cactuses closer to the road. After several miles of climbing, you’ll dip through Trilby Wash before making a steep ascent, then get a closer look at Red Picacho on the left. A couple of miles later, you’ll glimpse it again from a different angle, and at Mile 10.5, after another climb, you’ll see its aptly named neighbor, White Picacho, to the north.

There are more long views ahead, particularly at Mile 12.5, when you’ll begin a descent into a saguaro-filled valley — and from this direction, the surrounding peaks are particularly beautiful in morning shadow. A half-mile later, you’ll navigate a low-lying, semi-riparian area that may even have some creek water running on the roadway.

Another climb is next — ups and downs are the nature of this trip. This time, steep, jagged peaks line both sides of the road, and at Mile 17, they part to reveal a panorama, on the left, that includes the distant Bradshaw Mountains. True to the pattern, the road descends again from here, and you’ll want to watch your speed — this section is narrow, and there aren’t any guardrails.

At Mile 21, you’ll come to a “Y” intersection with Champie Road; go right to stay on Castle Hot Springs Road. Here, the road narrows further and passes numerous palm trees, which have thrived after being planted by previous residents. They’re also a hint of what’s to come when you pass through the Castle Hot Springs resort at Mile 22.5.

The resort’s namesake springs, which still flow, have been attracting visitors for centuries, but the resort, which dates to 1896, was shuttered for decades before being bought in 2014 and reopened in 2019. Today, the grounds are off-limits to those without a reservation, but you can get a glimpse of the site’s historic buildings and tall palms from the road.

After a rocky section, you’ll crest a hill at Mile 26.5 and see Lake Pleasant to the southeast. To explore this reservoir, go straight at the “T” intersection at Mile 30, just after your return to pavement, to enter Lake Pleasant Regional Park. (An entry fee is required.) Otherwise, turn right to stay on Castle Hot Springs Road and make the short jaunt back to SR 74 about 18 miles east of your starting point — and just a short drive away from civilization.